transom savers which is better

[jj2]

which do you all think is better the regular transom saver that braces against the trailer or I had someone tell me that a couple of short pieces of pvc pipe that the motor is trimed down against is better he said they would'nt transfer shock from the road like a transom saver would

[slonezp]

Not really sure what you're talking about with the pvc. If the pvc is between the motor and the transom it's not doing anything to protect the transom. The normal transom saver is essentialy making the motor part of the trailer taking all the stress off the transom.

[Long Mike]

Not really sure what you're talking about with the pvc. If the pvc is between the motor and the transom it's not doing anything to protect the transom. The normal transom saver is essentially making the motor part of the trailer taking all the stress off the transom.

What jj2 said.  Use a REAL transom saver.  It's cheap insurance.

[Way2slow]

I feel the best one is the one you don't use.

I don't and won't use one and that's with a 600 pound motor.

Placing PVC pipe over your trim rods does nothing more than what the motor's built in support will. Actually probably not even as good. The factory support is designed to keep the motor as just the right balance point to keep the stress off the tansome.

I've seen lower units and midsection busted by them. All the shock from a hard bump that lets the boat bounce transfers all that into the motor. I don't car how tight you make you're tie downs, 2,500 pounds of boat and motor can move up and down.

I you use a transome saver with the spring in it, you haven't accomplished anything.   The spring is going to let the motor rock as if it were not on a transome saver, just trimmed further down so there is more stress on the transome. 

[Fishing Rhino]

I feel the best one is the one you don't use.

I don't and won't use one and that's with a 600 pound motor.

Placing PVC pipe over your trim rods does nothing more than what the motor's built in support will. Actually probably not even as good. The factory support is designed to keep the motor as just the right balance point to keep the stress off the tansome.

I've seen lower units and midsection busted by them. All the shock from a hard bump that lets the boat bounce transfers all that into the motor. I don't car how tight you make you're tie downs, 2,500 pounds of boat and motor can move up and down.

I suspect those who broke their lower units because they hit a pothole or whatever may have had too much tension in the transom saver.

I've never been told the "proper" amount of tension to put into the transom saver, but here's what I do.

First, secure the tie downs, then install the transom saver.  I bring the motor down and get everything lined up.  Then I bring the motor down until I notice the bolt in the trailer roller start to bend, then back it off until it is straight. 

There is flex in the bolt, the trailer roller, and the four rubber snubbers that grip the lower unit.

I can see where too much pressure, or too much slop in the transom saver could cause serious problems.

The ideal transom saver might be one that has either a coil spring or rubber donut to absorb shock while still reducing the forces on the transom.  They call them torque absorbers in race cars and are used to reduce the shock transmitted to the contact patches of the tires during hard braking and acceleration, thus preventing the tires from breaking loose.

[bass or bass ?]

My transom saver mounts to a rubber roller on the trailer which provides a little shock absorbtion. I can't imagine NOT using a transom saver.

[northern basser]

Definitely a normal one that goes to the trailer.  The pvc pipe deal( if I understand you correctly) would not really relieve the stress on the transom.

[Bass_Fanatic]

Actually jj2, your friends way with the PVC is the  new thing.  Transom Savers are starting to be built like this. It temporaryily mounts under your trim and sits on your two trim pads (or whatever theyre called).  I went to buy a new one and the tackle store told me that these new ones actually took more stress off the transom.  I dont really understand it, but i do know that it looks alot more like the original mounts on the motor.  It has worked for me this year.

[fishn hard]

Way2slow hit the nail on the head you should never run a transom saver on any outboard or boat ..............

the transom is designed to hold the motor.You think about this watch a video of a boat on ruff water and see how much abuse your motor and transom is designed to withstand Now do you think pulling a boat down the road will be rougher then on the water. use what they put on there from the factory to hold your motor up wile in transit.   

[Fishing Rhino]

After doing some searching on the matter of the "transom" saver, both pro and con I decided to go to the horse's mouth, not the boat manufacturer, but the outboard manufacturer, in my case the Mercury Owner's Manual.

Here, word for word is their input on transom savers. It is in bold letters along with a sketch of a boat on a trailer and a transom saver installed between the trailer and a tilted motor.

IMPORTANT: do not rely on the power trim system or tilt support lever to maintain proper ground clearance for trailering. The outboard tilt support lever is not intended to support the outboard for trailering.

Which brings us to this important question.  Does trailering the boat with the motor tilted, and no transom saver installed, void the warranty on the power tilt system?

Another possibility for this disclaimer so to absolve them of liability for damage caused should the tilt system fail while being trailered.

I do agree that the transom absorbs much more abuse during routine boat operation than it experiences while being trailered.  But, these boat operating stresses cannot be avoided.

[Chuck H.]

You might want to take a look at the Lock-n-Haul advanced transom savers. I have been using one on my 250 ProXS for a year and a half and it works great. It is the only 4-point inline load motor stow available. It completely stops all movement of the motor which prevents stress on the transom. Since it is not attached to the trailer, road shock is not transferred to the motor or transom.

[txfisherman]

I also use the Lock-N-Haul system. When it is in place the motor stays straight and locked into place.  I have been using one on my Yamaha 200 for a year and it works great.  Take a look at the Lock-n-Haul advanced transom savers. 

[Way2slow]

Never said to use the motors hydraulics to hold motor when towing.  I said to use the motors built in tow/stow bracket and manually locks the motor up.

[Jig Man]

My motor didn't come with anything to keep it up but the trim motor so I use Lock n Haul to keep the pressure off it while in transit.

[Glenn]

I like conversations like this. I am new to this forum. I also use the Lock-N-Haul system. The protection is there, the motor stays straight and locked into place. I love the size of the Lock-N-Haul and it is not big and bulky. I just want a unit like this to do its job at an ok price. I cannot imagine someone not being happy with the Lock-N-Haul unit.

Hey Rob,

You might want to mention you're sponsored by Lock-N-Haul.

[mikeeasttn]

Rob, do you have a link to the Lock & Haul.  Thanks

[Fishing Rhino]

Rob, do you have a link to the Lock & Haul. Thanks

It's lock-n-haul.  If you had problems searching for it using lock & haul, that's why.  Here's the link.

http://www.lock-n-haul.com/

[5bass]

I use a transom saver that attaches to the trailer. I dont see how the Lock n Haul keeps any strain off the transom. The weight of the motor is still there, plus more when you hit a hump in the road. The trailer type doesnt allow any more force than the usual weight of the motor when hitting a hump or bump, the weight is transferred to the trailer, not the transom. Which is the whole point.

I've seen this topic go pages and pages before and it usually ends up 50/50. Maybe someone with a physics degree will come along and drop some knowledge on us. 

[Long Mike]

Scott, great minds think alike.  I completely agree with you.  Assuming the stern tie-down straps are snug, any significant downward loading on the motor is transferred to the trailer, not the transom.  I'm no physicist, but I do have an engineering background.  One can argue that there could be an upward loading of the motor if one were to hit a bump, but if the motor is trimmed down and into the transom saver the effect is negligible.   

[5bass]

Good post Mike. In my opinion, the Lock n Haul type savers are more attractive to people because they are slightly easier to use and stow away. That was the biggest reason I looked at them. My current trailer style transom saver is about 5 ft long and thats no joke.

I dont doubt that Lock N Haul makes an excellent product, in fact, I know several guys who use them, I just cant see how it works better than a trailer style for 'saving the transom from excess stress'.

[fishn hard]

All i can say is my boat is a 1992 and i have never used a transom saver on it or the guy that owned it before never did and if you can find on crack around the transom well you will be the owner of a Allison. But thats just me you guys use what ever you want on your boats  besides your the ones that bought and paid for them   

[Ima Bass Ninja]

I got the ole cheapo from wal-mart about 3 years ago. Whether it makes a difference or not i cant say, but it gives me a better feeling of being protected. Its just one of those things that i would rather have regardless of if it actually works or not.

[Carrington]

how exactly does the lock system take stress off the transom?  From the picture i saw, its taking and just putting a wedge in between the trim cylinders and the lower unit.  maybe im missing something though but id rather stick with my conventional transom saver.

[Carrington]

All i can say is my boat is a 1992 and i have never used a transom saver on it or the guy that owned it before never did and if you can find on crack around the transom well you will be the owner of a Allison. But thats just me you guys use what ever you want on your boats besides your the ones that bought and paid for them

Almost all transoms that ive ever seen have small cracks.  The cracks arent bad from what ive been told by mechanics unless they are vertical.  if they are horizontal then they are fine.  I may have it backwards on which direction is bad though.

[Fishing Rhino]

All i can say is my boat is a 1992 and i have never used a transom saver on it or the guy that owned it before never did and if you can find on crack around the transom well you will be the owner of a Allison. But thats just me you guys use what ever you want on your boats besides your the ones that bought and paid for them

Almost all transoms that ive ever seen have small cracks. The cracks arent bad from what ive been told by mechanics unless they are vertical. if they are horizontal then they are fine. I may have it backwards on which direction is bad though.

They are likely just stress cracks in the gel coat.  The thicker the gel coat, the more likely it will crack when the composite flexes.  Since the gel coat does not provide any structural strength to a hull, those cracks are harmless.

However, the gel coat is waterproof.  If polyester resin is used for laminating, the composite is not waterproof, and will absorb water.  If that moisture is subjected to freezing temps, it will expand, causing damage to the composite.

Any areas that have stress cracks should be sealed periodically with wax or some type of sealant to prevent water from getting to the composite.

If vinylester resin is used, then there is no problem.  It is waterproof.

But vinylester is significantly more expensive than polyester resin.  Because of that, many boatbuilders use the polyester.

Were I to build a fiberglass boat for myself, or make repairs to a fiberglass boat, I'd use the vinylester and eliminate the possibility of water intrusion.