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Posted

I use a 3/8 oz Tungsten on a t-rig tied with a palomar knot with a rage bug on the end. I do pretty good with it but recently I keep getting snapped off when I set the hook. It occured when I switched to swagger tungsten but im not sure if thats the issue.

Another problem that I think is causing this is when I jig the T-rig, the tungsten hits the knot and hook. I tend to do much better when it makes those sounds but I just get broken off when I set the hook.

I tried covering the knot with the soft plastic and I just didnt get bit.

Is there anyway to make that clicking sound when the tungsten hits the hook without damaging the knot? Thanks in advance

  • Super User
Posted

A glass bead in between the bullet and hook will protect the knot from the tungsten slamming against it, and the glass will still make a loud click. 
 

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Eagle_Claw_Lazer_Sharp_Faceted_Glass_Beads/descpage-ECFGB.html

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Tempered glass 8mm bead between the bullet weight is also my go to T-rig set up. I use Iovno’s Holographic beads in colors similar to the soft plastics.

What line and hook are you using? 

FC line for example has poor impact knot strength.

Some hooks have sharp end hook eye that can cut the line tightening the knot. Palomar knot is sensitive to the line crossing over if you twist the loop going over the hook or lure before tightening. 

Some tungsten bullet weights have sharp hole edges, should be smooth and rounded. If not smooth use 1/16 tubing.

Tom 

 

  • Like 3
Posted

IMHO... Fluorocarbon line and Palomar knots don't play well together. Braid and Palomar do play well together. Fluoro hates to be kinked. 

FM

  • Super User
Posted
1 minute ago, Fishingmickey said:

IMHO... Fluorocarbon line and Palomar knots don't play well together. Braid and Palomar do play well together. Fluoro hates to be kinked. 

FM

I'd disagree on the first part.   I tie nothing but palomar knots on my Fluoro stuff, knock on wood not a single problem.  

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, AlabamaSpothunter said:

I'd disagree on the first part.   I tie nothing but palomar knots on my Fluoro stuff, knock on wood not a single problem.  

 

 

Hi AlabamaSpot,

     I tie the improved clinch with Fluoro. It just works well for me. Six turns and loop through the loop and gently cinch it tight.  Same knot I've been tying for many years. I don't think it kinks at the knot where it's under tension.

     When I first started using Fluorocarbon and had some backlashes. Which I picked out in my old style monofilament way by tugging and picking.  I found that I'd have an unexplained line break from where I had kinked the line from pulling on the line to pick out the back lash.

    I still backlash with fluorocarbon but now I pick out the backlash much more gently and the unexplained line breaking issue went away.  So my deduction was don't kink the fluorocarbon.

    I'm not sure how hard the OP is setting the hook. But braid (again IMHO) breaks pretty easy with a sudden shock load. Like a hard hook set or chunking a heavy bait and having a birds nest or line dig-in suddenly stop it in mid-cast.

   I'm fine with the disagreement hence the IMHO. I don't tie the palomar on Fluoro or Mono, so no real world experience with it.

Regards,

FM

  • Like 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, Fishingmickey said:

Hi AlabamaSpot,

     I tie the improved clinch with Fluoro. It just works well for me. Six turns and loop through the loop and gently cinch it tight.  Same knot I've been tying for many years. I don't think it kinks at the knot where it's under tension.

     When I first started using Fluorocarbon and had some backlashes. Which I picked out in my old style monofilament way by tugging and picking.  I found that I'd have an unexplained line break from where I had kinked the line from pulling on the line to pick out the back lash.

    I still backlash with fluorocarbon but now I pick out the backlash much more gently and the unexplained line breaking issue went away.  So my deduction was don't kink the fluorocarbon.

    I'm not sure how hard the OP is setting the hook. But braid (again IMHO) breaks pretty easy with a sudden shock load. Like a hard hook set or chunking a heavy bait and having a birds nest or line dig-in suddenly stop it in mid-cast.

   I'm fine with the disagreement hence the IMHO. I don't tie the palomar on Fluoro or Mono, so no real world experience with it.

Regards,

FM

Best thing in the world (my opinion) for picking backlashes out, regardless of the type of line, is a small plastic crochet hook. You can get them at Walmart, or any fabric store (think JoAnne Fabrics. I have never had damage to my line using one.

Posted

Snell knot for me as well. Plus the sound that it makes when the tungsten hits the hook is nice and crisp, which I find works better for me as well. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I don't use a Palomar with FC for this exact reason.  I use the Tri-Tag, double pitzen/improved clinch, whatever it's called and it seems to work MUCH better for my really hard hooks sets.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, Fishingmickey said:

Hi AlabamaSpot,

     I tie the improved clinch with Fluoro. It just works well for me. Six turns and loop through the loop and gently cinch it tight.  Same knot I've been tying for many years. I don't think it kinks at the knot where it's under tension.

     When I first started using Fluorocarbon and had some backlashes. Which I picked out in my old style monofilament way by tugging and picking.  I found that I'd have an unexplained line break from where I had kinked the line from pulling on the line to pick out the back lash.

    I still backlash with fluorocarbon but now I pick out the backlash much more gently and the unexplained line breaking issue went away.  So my deduction was don't kink the fluorocarbon.

    I'm not sure how hard the OP is setting the hook. But braid (again IMHO) breaks pretty easy with a sudden shock load. Like a hard hook set or chunking a heavy bait and having a birds nest or line dig-in suddenly stop it in mid-cast.

   I'm fine with the disagreement hence the IMHO. I don't tie the palomar on Fluoro or Mono, so no real world experience with it.

Regards,

FM

I still use the improved clinch on light mono, and a few other things, but I've found over time it doesn't have the same strength as a palomar knot.

 

Never had a palomar knot come free, but I've had a handful of improved clinch knots come free.

 

This is why fishing is great, it's very nuanced, and opinionated.   

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, Fishingmickey said:

IMHO... Fluorocarbon line and Palomar knots don't play well together. Braid and Palomar do play well together. Fluoro hates to be kinked. 

FM

I gotta agree with this.  I get a ton of breakoffs with the Palomar and fluorocarbon.  It won't unravel, but it will pinch the line at the top of the knot under pressure.  And fluoro does not react well to being pinched.  So you'll see a clean break just above your knot, with no twisted line.  I prefer the Berkley Braid knot for fluorocarbon.  It doesn't kink the line and has almost twice the knot strength in my experience. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Never had a Palomar knot fail with Braid Mono or Flouro in the 32 years I've tied it. Broken lines before but not at the knot 

  • Like 2
Posted
11 hours ago, WRB said:

Tempered glass 8mm bead between the bullet weight is also my go to T-rig set up. I use Iovno’s Holographic beads in colors similar to the soft plastics.

What line and hook are you using? 

FC line for example has poor impact knot strength.

Some hooks have sharp end hook eye that can cut the line tightening the knot. Palomar knot is sensitive to the line crossing over if you twist the loop going over the hook or lure before tightening. 

Some tungsten bullet weights have sharp hole edges, should be smooth and rounded. If not smooth use 1/16 tubing.

Tom 

 

Im using 12 lb seagur red label with 3/0 gamakatsu EWG

  • Super User
Posted

Should be OK, make sure you don’t twist the Palomar knot loop before clinching tight pulling the tag end only.

Option is use the San Diego jam knot.

Tom

  • Like 2
Posted
2 minutes ago, WRB said:

Should be OK, make sure you don’t twist the Palomar knot loop before clinching tight pulling the tag end only.

Option is use the San Diego jam knot.

Tom

thanks for the tips, ill try to learn the san diego jam knot this week

  • Super User
Posted

Tungsten bullet weight to a Carolina ticker to a Bump - Itz shock bead to a SDJ knot. I can't remember my last break off on a fish.

Screenshot_20221005-182856_Gallery.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Good Day!

Great advice presented that I concur with based on personal experience. A bead helps greatly to protect the knot from being hammered. I found a package low cost of glass beads (rounded, melted for that sort of smooth look like a miniature doughnut) at the local hobby store jewelry section. On very light weight applications I've have used a glass bead occasionally as a weight.

 

I have tried the palomar knot in the past. I found it could withstand high tensile loads. It didn't do so well with high shock loads. That compelled me to seek and experiment with different knots to meet that high load with occasional high shock loading.

 

What I have found are bulkier alternative knots tend to cushion the shock loading better than the compact knots like the palomar.

 

I generally use lighter strength mono lines and wanted to share my findings. Good luck in finding a workable solution. Realize you just need enough input to pin them, save the rest of the line strength so you can get them in and pose for that glorious selfie. Cheers!

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Sounds like a knot problem if your using braid!

  • Super User
Posted

Sounds like a knot problem to me too. I don't care what knot you use - they all work with fluoro, even a clinch - so long as it's a well tied knot. Try a few and test them before going out. Find "your knot" and practice tying it. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Sounds like you’re causing a line abrasion when tightening the knot. I use a Palomar with fluorocarbon  and have no issue but I really take my time tying it to make sure the lines aren’t crossed and pull the tag through loose as possible before cinching the main line. 

Posted

use a magnifying glass and inspect your palomars after tying.

 

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