Can This be Repaired?

[1984isNOW]

Hey all,

 

Is this rod still usable or can it be made usable again by repairing it? Idk if that's actual blank splintering or what, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks

[The Bassman]

Pretty much toast.

[Eric 26]

Just now, The Bassman said:

Pretty much toast.

I’m going with @The Bassman. But have to ask how? As in how did that happen ?

[DitchPanda]

She's a goner bud..time to go rod shopping.

[1984isNOW]

FFFFFFUUUUUUDDDDGGGGEEEE

 

Got snagged, braid wrapped around between a couple eyes and I didn't realize - yank to free the snag and braid ripped through the rod apparently.

 

Maybe I'll use it until it explodes on me.

 

Any rod builders in here who could offer a band-aid or mickey mouse fix?

[NavyToad]

It’s probably toast, but are you any good with J-B WELD? Superglue the splintering back in place and neatly apply a thin layer of J-B. That’s all I have.

[MidwestBassAttack]

Rod is toast my friend. Not repairable.

 

Possible solution; Reach out to the manufacturer and explain your plight. Be honest and upfront. Some builders have a no questions asked replacement program (you pay a small fee), some might be able to offer a discount on a replacement, and some might replace it for free. Can’t hurt to ask!

[FishTank]

[Jrob78]

Is the blank itself splintering or is that a layer of paint/finish that is coming off? Hard to tell from the pic but that blank looks to have a layer of something over it. If it isn't actual graphite coming apart it might be ok. If it is graphite then it's probably done for, like everyone else has said. 

 

 

[casts_by_fly]

It is repairable. Looks to be about 12” down from the tip?  A fiberglass sleeve, thread wrap, and epoxy coat will have that back to good enough. It will cost you $35-$50.  Is the rod worth it?

[1984isNOW]

@Jrob78 I'm not exactly sure if it's a layer of paint, or something. I'm still hoping someone with rod building experience can gimme some direction.

 

I'm gonna look into some thin liquid epoxy or something if nobody points me in a different direction.

[1984isNOW]

7 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

It is repairable. Looks to be about 12” down from the tip?  A fiberglass sleeve, thread wrap, and epoxy coat will have that back to good enough. It will cost you $35-$50.  Is the rod worth it?

Thanks for the tips!

 

Its just above 3rd eye, about 4-6 inches down. It's a St. CROIX MOJO Bass. If I can get it to useable for that cheap I'd say worth a shot, how do I even search to find videos how to do that and where do I shop for that stuff? Can it be done by somebody who's totally clueless about this stuff?

[Jrob78]

9 minutes ago, PUTitinYOURmouthFISH said:

Thanks for the tips!

 

Its just above 3rd eye, about 4-6 inches down. It's a St. CROIX MOJO Bass. If I can get it to useable for that cheap I'd say worth a shot, how do I even search to find videos how to do that and where do I shop for that stuff? Can it be done by somebody who's totally clueless about this stuff?

Mojo bass rods have thick black/purple paint or stain or whatever over the blank. My guess is that is just peeling off. It probably hasn't actually damaged the blank and is just cosmetic. 

[1984isNOW]

@Jrob78 Maybe, but the splinters feel kinda firm to just be paint. I'd really love for it to just be that, how could I tell? And just so I can take a look in case I do need to do the repairs where can I find that stuff you mentioned and what do I search to find a YouTube video on it or something?

[1984isNOW]

@MickD I just bumped into a post from you talking about rod repair - do you think someone who's never done anything like this could make this rod fishable again and if so any advice?

 

Thanks

[Lead Head]

While I wouldn't make a bet on it, it definitely looks into the graphite to me. Assuming it is, that will be a fairly tough repair for someone totally new. Your looking at removing/replacing guides and tip for a sleeve, and a insert would require you to cut the blank. Either way the length of the affected area you will have to repair is probably going to add enough weight and rigidity to make the rod tip-heavy and awkward. It's my understanding that successful repairs that close to the tip usually involve a clean break. Mick definitely knows more about it than me, so maybe he will have some better news.

 

I believe St Croix has a pretty good return policy. I strongly suggest contacting them before attempting any repair. 

[Woody B]

It looks broke to me.  Any repair either isn't going to hold or you're going to end up with a heavy, stiff spot in an important section of the rod.  That's not a very expensive rod.  (it's expensive by my standards, but not by most)   Don't throw money away trying to fix it.  Put that money toward a new rod.   

[Deleted account]

11 hours ago, PUTitinYOURmouthFISH said:

Idk if that's actual blank splintering or what

Oh it's broke. We do a vacuum resin repair thing on carbon bike wheels and frames, I've done it on a few splintered blanks (cause I get bored easily) with mixed results. 

[MickD]

7 hours ago, PUTitinYOURmouthFISH said:

I just bumped into a post from you talking about rod repair - do you think someone who's never done anything like this could make this rod fishable again and if so any advice?

 

The lower on the rod the break is the higher the probability of having a fishable rod after  repair.   I just repaired a light power spin rod broken about 6 inches below the tip and the owner is pleased with how it fishes.   Yes, a newbie can do it; a friend of mine did it successfully.  Use epoxy designed for rod building, not something from the hardware store.  Consult these sites:  https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

 

https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

 

Keep the pieces clean and free of any contamination, and don't think that wiping with alcohol is necessary or correct.  I have only used an internal plug once when I had a fly rod that was shattered in about  in the middle and it needed the plug to hold the pieces together so the external sleeve would be supported.  It worked fine.  Usually only the external sleeve is necessary.  Keep in mind that the most common error is making the repair too rigid thus forming stress risers.  O'Quinn talks about this, if I remember right. 

 

I have found that it really doesns't matter whether the sleeve is glass or graphite, but would recommned using glass if you can find it.