jazzy0017 Posted October 4, 2010 Posted October 4, 2010 This is my first year with my boat so Im looking for some help on when I should start worrying about it getting to cold. Like weve already had a frost warning and freeze warning through the nite in Michigan but then its 50's and 60's during the day so Im just looking for some answers on when I need to start worrying. Please tell me Im not too late... Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted October 5, 2010 Super User Posted October 5, 2010 What is your major concern? Freezing water cracking the block of the engine? Unless I'm mistaken, the water used to cool the engine drains unless the motor is stored in a horizontal position. But, if you're planning on laying up your rig during the cold weather, it should be winterized, which includes draining all the fuel from the engine, removing the spark plugs and putting roughly a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder. Then the motor should be turned over to get a good coating on the cylinder walls and rings. Fuel filters/water separators should be inspected serviced and replaced as needed. All pivot points should be greased. Anodes should be checked, etc., etc. You should find the instructions on the particulars for proper winterization of your engine. Batteries need attention as well, and should be kept charged throughout the offseason. All terminals should be inspected and cleaned if necessary. Nothing is really complicated, but it is vital to maintain your engine's reliability and longevity. Don't forget your boat. Clean it, if fiberglass, give it a coat of wax. Use rubber/vinyl cleaner protectant on your seats, and if you store it outdoors, cover it. Before you cover it, it's not a bad idea to put something like DeCon in a place where domestic animals cannot get to it, in the boat. Mice and other critters are also looking for a safe haven for the winter. They love to get into cushions and other material to build nests. That's just for starters. Do a google search of winterizing boats for storage, and you should get all the info you need. Quote
BassResource.com Administrator Glenn Posted October 5, 2010 BassResource.com Administrator Posted October 5, 2010 Or go here: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/Winter_boat.html Quote
Sfritr Posted October 5, 2010 Posted October 5, 2010 Jazzy I fish until and even when there is snow on the ground and Ice on the waters. Then "she" gets a good lubing, along with many of the items Rhino mentioned. Dont forget the SeaFoam or Stabil for your tank in Michigan winters. Quote
jazzy0017 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Posted October 5, 2010 I think I was more wondering Rhino is I should be worried about a few overnight freezewarning...or is my okay but by these reposnse by everyone Im thinking so, so thank you! Just wanted to be sure and Im taking my boat to get winterized just was wondering if I should do it soon. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted October 5, 2010 Super User Posted October 5, 2010 If you're done using it for the season, the sooner you get it winterized, the better. There is no practical reason to wait. Winterizing, though commonly used, is a poor term to describe the process of prepping a motor that is not going to be used for a "long" period of time. "Winterizing" should be done anytime the motor will not be used for several weeks. The process of rusting/oxidizing that can ruin an engine begins the moment you turn it off. It's just not practical or necessary to put oil in the cylinders every time you turn it off. There is a very light film of oil on pistons, cylinder walls. rings, etc., that will provide short term protection, but not sufficient to last a few months. The cold isn't the problem. It's the lack of use. Motors should be prepped for storage, even in warm climates. Quote
Super User Wayne P. Posted October 5, 2010 Super User Posted October 5, 2010 The number 1 issure with freezing weather is to make sure you don't have a damaged prop shaft seal that has let water into the lower unit. If you don't do anything else change the lower unit oil which will show you if the seal is OK. Quote
jazzy0017 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Posted October 5, 2010 okayy thanks everyone!! I appreciate it...like always lots of good info! ;D Quote
fishn hard Posted October 9, 2010 Posted October 9, 2010 This is what i do first i put stabil in the gas get a can of sea foam the kind you poor in the tank i then remove the gas line from the tank and put the line in the bottle of sea foam I pump the ball and start the motor and let it run until the sea foam chokes it out.That way i know that my whole fuel system has sea foam in it for the winter and all off the internals have a good coating of sea foam inside the motor then i use the spray type sea foam in the spark plug holes i spray alot alot alot in there it coats your cylinder and it will help break up the carbon build up that your motor made this summer as for the lower unit I drain the oil and leave the plugs out I take the plugs and and wrap them in tape and tape them to my steering wheel so i dont forget come spring Im not saying this is the best way to winterize your boat but its the best way for my boat Quote
Ol� Dirty Basstard Posted October 11, 2010 Posted October 11, 2010 i then remove the gas line from the tank and put the line in the bottle of sea foam I pump the ball and start the motor and let it run until the sea foam chokes it out. Huh. What does it do when you start it up in the Spring? Jazzy, I'm always amazed at how many folks don't do a thing to their engines come winter. A few freeze warnings are nothing to worry about. But your safest bet will be to store her up for the long cold winter in the coming weeks. Should you decide to skip the shop and go DIY, it's not as intimidating as it sounds. I have no idea who this guy is but, once upon a time, I was in the same boat as you and this helped me: http://lakesidecanvas.com/winterizing_trailer.html Quote
fishn hard Posted October 16, 2010 Posted October 16, 2010 Like I said this is what i do In the summer I fill the tank with new gas i take it to The lake fire it up go for a nice slow ride I bring it back to the ramp change plugs then take it back out and run her WFO it works for me Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted October 16, 2010 Super User Posted October 16, 2010 If a motor is stored outside, especially where the sun can shine on it, you SHOULD run a fogging oil through it as per the product's recommendation. I've seen more than one motor/crankshaft ruined because of the condensation that forms inside the motor and rust the crap out of them. Morning sun is the worst. If you want to see what I'm talking about, go out on a cool/cold morning about 20 minutes after the sun has be shinning on it and pull the cover off, it will look like someone sprayed a water hose under there. This is also one reason why you should never disconnect the fuel line and let the motor run out of gas when you get back to the ramp. That practice removes most all the oil film inside the motor that just turning the motor off leaves. If you want the gas out, take the drain plugs out of the carbs. While you have them out, disconnect the primer bulb on the fuel tank end and use low pressure compressed air and blow through the bulb in the direction of the motor and purge the whole fuel system. I do this any time a carburated motor is going to be sitting a while. If you can get to the fitting on the tank, do it there but DO NOT try blowing back toward the tank. Unless they have been removed, the Coast Guard requires one way check valve be installed at the tank and you can not blow back through them. Usually they are inside the barbed fitting in the tank. These are also a major cause of fuel delivery problems so a lot of people have removed them on older boats. DFI motors, I do not winterize the power head, I mix one ounce of SeaFoam in a half gallon of gas and run them on a hose for 10 - 15 minutes every month or two. I also do not worry about adding fuel presevatives to my fuel tank because I do not leave fuel in my tanks. I pump all the fuel from my tank. I absolutely WILL NOT run any fuel that's over two months old. Other items a most people fail to do is pour antifreeze in the livewell drains and push some through the pumps. These can hold water, freeze and bust. Then you have the water pressure guage and speedometer. If water has gotten into them, it freezes and damages the guages. As mentioned, lube and service the motor and change gear lube in LU. Don't forget the trailer, great time to do wheel bearings so it's ready to go next spring. Quote
northern basser Posted October 16, 2010 Posted October 16, 2010 Also, its not a bad idea to put a little sea foam or stabil in on every fill up. Then when its time to store put the recommended amount in the tank and run the motor for a few minutes so the mixture has time to fully get into the carbs or injectors. I've also done a lot of late season duck hunting here in MN where we've drove boats through ice that causes the boat to ramp on to the ice at times. The temp. being below freezing. While we are hunting we'd make sure the lower unit stayed in the water so it wouldn't freeze. Then when you leave the lake the motor drains out as long as you don't have it tilted up. Quote
hogrustler Posted October 19, 2010 Posted October 19, 2010 Good tips here. Glad to live in the south though. Mild winters, fresh gas, and fishing every week is how I winterize my boat. Just keeping the motor down is all I ever done. Quote
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