Line Recommendation for Mid Cranking

[MontclairDave]

Not a big crankbait guy but gonna give it a shot this fall in a highland reservoir with plenty of smallies. Lots of hard bottom and riprap and wood blowdowns. Some grass. I’m gonna use fluorocarbon as main line, probably Sunline Sniper or Seagar InvisX because I have experience with and like both. But not sure of optimal line weight? Rod is a 7’ medium power with a moderate-fast action (not composite) optimized for treble-hook baits. Mostly throwing 1/4 to 3/8 cranks that dive up to 10’. 
 

Thanks! 

[roadwarrior]

#11 Sunline Armilo

 

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Sunline_Shooter_Defier_Armilo_Nylon_Line/descpage-SDAR.html

[Cbump]

I don’t use the expensive stuff (invisx or sniper) for cranking. I use that for worms. 
If I use fluoro it’s red label. I also use big game. 12lb. 

[J Francho]

I use 12# Tatsu for what you're describing. 

Mid depth cranking is and should always be a contact sport. Otherwise, you're hauling water. 

[casts_by_fly]

2 hours ago, MontclairDave said:

Not a big crankbait guy but gonna give it a shot this fall in a highland reservoir with plenty of smallies. Lots of hard bottom and riprap and wood blowdowns. Some grass. I’m gonna use fluorocarbon as main line, probably Sunline Sniper or Seagar InvisX because I have experience with and like both. But not sure of optimal line weight? Rod is a 7’ medium power with a moderate-fast action (not composite) optimized for treble-hook baits. Mostly throwing 1/4 to 3/8 cranks that dive up to 10’. 
 

Thanks! 

 

You must be going out of state.  I don't know of a highland NJ reservoir with blowdowns (but would love to hear about it if there is one!).  Monksville has standing timber, but not a ton of it is laid down.  Same for Merrill.  

 

Either way, you're talking my preferred crankbait language.  That's DT4 through DT10 territory.  I mostly fish mine on 30 lb 832 braid straight to the lure but I also have a fluoro setup for them as well with either 10 or 12 lb red label depending which one I've been using lately.  Both are pretty equivalent from the lure's perspective.  If you're around more cover with it, I'd go to 12 for just a bit more abrasion resistance.  The other thing to consider if you're around quite a bit of brush is upsizing everything.  I'll throw 15 lb fluoro or even 17 mono with a DT10 and plan for it to only hit 6-8' deep or so.  The difference in bait size isn't significant between a 4/6/10 for the most part and this time of year bait is bigger anyway.  Then you can have the benefit of heavier line in the cover.  I normally figure a foot of depth per 2 lb of line strength there abouts.  

[MontclairDave]

1 hour ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

You must be going out of state.  I don't know of a highland NJ reservoir with blowdowns (but would love to hear about it if there is one!).  Monksville has standing timber, but not a ton of it is laid down.  Same for Merrill.  

 

Either way, you're talking my preferred crankbait language.  That's DT4 through DT10 territory.  I mostly fish mine on 30 lb 832 braid straight to the lure but I also have a fluoro setup for them as well with either 10 or 12 lb red label depending which one I've been using lately.  Both are pretty equivalent from the lure's perspective.  If you're around more cover with it, I'd go to 12 for just a bit more abrasion resistance.  The other thing to consider if you're around quite a bit of brush is upsizing everything.  I'll throw 15 lb fluoro or even 17 mono with a DT10 and plan for it to only hit 6-8' deep or so.  The difference in bait size isn't significant between a 4/6/10 for the most part and this time of year bait is bigger anyway.  Then you can have the benefit of heavier line in the cover.  I normally figure a foot of depth per 2 lb of line strength there abouts.  

Split rock, although admittedly blowdowns few and far between. Great info! Do you find straight braid doesn’t spook fish? I know that tends to be less of an issue with reaction baits like cranks. And not like this is crystal clear water we’re taking about. 
 

Also: the DTs have a bad rep for fragile bills breaking on rocks etc so I didn’t include them in my first purchase of mid-depth cranks. That a mistake? (Got the usual Bombers, Normans, Bagleys, 6th Sense, etc)

[casts_by_fly]

50 minutes ago, MontclairDave said:

Split rock, although admittedly blowdowns few and far between. Great info! Do you find straight braid doesn’t spook fish? I know that tends to be less of an issue with reaction baits like cranks. And not like this is crystal clear water we’re taking about. 
 

Also: the DTs have a bad rep for fragile bills breaking on rocks etc so I didn’t include them in my first purchase of mid-depth cranks. That a mistake? (Got the usual Bombers, Normans, Bagleys, 6th Sense, etc)

 

Gocha.  I've only fished splitrock once (april this year while the water was still 49 degrees) so I'm not an expert there.  I did however go the entire length of the lake and timber is few and far between.  I know people catch good fish out of there, but the steep banks and lack of wood (what I prefer to fish) combined with the kayak access and my 150+ lb rig mean I fish other places.

 

I've not had a problem with straight braid.  I love it for lipless and that's the rod I throw other cranks on mostly so that's what stays.  Then again, I'm looking at switching a few things around so I might swap that rod back to 12 lb red label and throw lipless on braid on another rod.  The braid is awesome for feeling the crankbait work and feeling that tiny piece of grass that is fouling the hook.  If you're worried about spooking fish, throw on a piece of 14 lb fluoro. 

 

older DTs had that reputation, but newer ones seem to be better.  I've not broken a bill or bait on rocks on my standard DT series.  I broke a DT fat but that was slapping it on the water (pretty hard) to clear weeds.  That one's on me.  I like the DT series in general as I think they are a good all around crankbait.  Not the widest wobble and no rattle, so for clear water and pressured water (both of which are the norm here) I think they are a good choice for nearly near round cranks.  It also simplifies things.  Having a basic set of bluegill, craw, shad/alewife in 4-5 sizes covers the spectrum here pretty well.  I supplement with DT fat and OG6 for more and less action respectively.  The DT6 bluegill is my go to crankbait from June on.  I'll bump to a 10 or 14 depending on the water.

 

When are you planning to go?  I could maybe be convinced if you want company.

 

[WRB]

4 hours ago, MontclairDave said:

Not a big crankbait guy but gonna give it a shot this fall in a highland reservoir with plenty of smallies. Lots of hard bottom and riprap and wood blowdowns. Some grass. I’m gonna use fluorocarbon as main line, probably Sunline Sniper or Seagar InvisX because I have experience with and like both. But not sure of optimal line weight? Rod is a 7’ medium power with a moderate-fast action (not composite) optimized for treble-hook baits. Mostly throwing 1/4 to 3/8 cranks that dive up to 10’. 
 

Thanks! 

By choosing braid as your main line and FC leader you eliminate Mono and Copolymer lines that are superior imo.

Oh, casting or spinning?

Tom

[Hulkster]

12 pound test Sufix Siege 

[MontclairDave]

1 hour ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

Gocha.  I've only fished splitrock once (april this year while the water was still 49 degrees) so I'm not an expert there.  I did however go the entire length of the lake and timber is few and far between.  I know people catch good fish out of there, but the steep banks and lack of wood (what I prefer to fish) combined with the kayak access and my 150+ lb rig mean I fish other places.

 

I've not had a problem with straight braid.  I love it for lipless and that's the rod I throw other cranks on mostly so that's what stays.  Then again, I'm looking at switching a few things around so I might swap that rod back to 12 lb red label and throw lipless on braid on another rod.  The braid is awesome for feeling the crankbait work and feeling that tiny piece of grass that is fouling the hook.  If you're worried about spooking fish, throw on a piece of 14 lb fluoro. 

 

older DTs had that reputation, but newer ones seem to be better.  I've not broken a bill or bait on rocks on my standard DT series.  I broke a DT fat but that was slapping it on the water (pretty hard) to clear weeds.  That one's on me.  I like the DT series in general as I think they are a good all around crankbait.  Not the widest wobble and no rattle, so for clear water and pressured water (both of which are the norm here) I think they are a good choice for nearly near round cranks.  It also simplifies things.  Having a basic set of bluegill, craw, shad/alewife in 4-5 sizes covers the spectrum here pretty well.  I supplement with DT fat and OG6 for more and less action respectively.  The DT6 bluegill is my go to crankbait from June on.  I'll bump to a 10 or 14 depending on the water.

 

When are you planning to go?  I could maybe be convinced if you want company.

 

Ok, then DTs will be putting the next ding in my wallet. Check your PM for when I may be going next. And I like the suggestion of short FL leader to braid because that’s what I use the most for a lot of other applications. Thanks!

1 hour ago, WRB said:

By choosing braid as your main line and FC leader you eliminate Mono and Copolymer lines that are superior imo.

Oh, casting or spinning?

Tom

Ah, so many takes on this one! Why do you feel mono and copoly superior—more stretch to keep fish pinned? Mostly casting for the baits 3/8 or 1/2 max. The smaller 1/4 ounce baits I’ll probably throw on spinner and that would def be braid to leader—I can’t deal with all fluoro on spinners. Tried it, disaster every time. Maybe mono leader to add a bit of stretch? In fact could do that on spinner or baitcaster…

[Darth-Baiter]

12lb sniper.  but I am not a great cranker-type.  I have recently had a few good/great days.

[WRB]

Mono is ideal line for crankbaits for several reasons.

1. Stretch is misunderstood regarding monofilament lines including Nylon, Copolymer and Fluorocarbon ( yes FC is Monofilament (single )line). 

All the above “stretch” the same amount compared by diameter (psi). What you feel a “stretch” is line drag creating a bow in the line. FC has lower coeffient of line drag going through water so is it “feels” like less stretch with less line bow. It takes at least 30% line tensile strength to begin to ”stretch” monofilament line.

2. Nylon monofilament line;  Sunline Armillo Defier Nylon that has diameters equal to FC stress less then FC with 20% stronger knot strength. Most Copolymer lines and mono are larger diameter per lb test, so select line by it’s diameter in lieu of label lb test.

3. FC line has more memory and stay dry tending to spring off the spool. To wet FC line requires a line conditioner like KVD, to allow water to stick to the lakes he keeping on the spool. The big issue with FC is wear and stress from hundreds of cast typical with crank baits.

4. trilene Big Game mono is a good crank bait line as it not as expensive so changing it every few weeks use is a good practice with crank baits. Big Game is very abrasion resistant 

With excellent knot strength. I used 10 and 12 lb Big Game for crank baits about 35 years without issue. Today I use Armillo 11 lb /.011D Nylon line.

Stronger knot and  higher abrasion strength. Easier line management for longer casting under Fishing conditions.  

Tom

[KP Duty]

I use 8lb Pline CXX...a .012" diameter line.  

[Bankbeater]

Depending on the size of the bait, I use either 10 or 15 pound Big Game.

[Jmontgomery87]

I usually throw 1/4 oz and under on a medium spinning with 15lb Powerpro to 8lb Big Game. 3/8 oz and up goes on a MH casting with 50lb Powerpro to 12lb Big Game.

[FishTank]

Sunline Deifier 13lb. Works great and holds up longer than most mono. 

[Columbia Craw]

12 Invizex

[Woody B]

12 pound original Stren.  The same line I use for pretty much everything.    

[RDB]

I wouldn’t worry about line memory.  After you make your first cast with a medium diver, it will be gone...line memory and knot strength are so over obsessed about here.  Maybe people should make sure they are tying correctly, loosen up their drags, and stop cutting their tag ends even with their knots.  I can’t remember when I last had a knot fail, rarely have line memory issues and when I do, it’s when the reel has been on the shelf and disappears after a few casts, and rarely break off with any line type and I use lighter than most for everything.  This is one of those personal preference issues and the feedback is biased to that persons preference.  At the end of the day, presenting the crankbait in the desired zone is most important and your choice of line can have an impact on that..

[Lead Head]

I've used both 12lb BG and 14lb Sniper for all cranks down to about 15'. After a few years of experimentation, I've switched to Sniper exclusively because it has (for me, in the cover I fish) far superior abrasion resistance. I use it as both main line and leader for cranking, depending on the rod.

 

I can't recall the last time I had a knot (leader or terminal) fail on a fish using these lines, and I've landed countless 8lb+ trash fish with a few over 20lb. 

[Deleted account]

3 hours ago, Lead Head said:

(for me, in the cover I fish) far superior abrasion resistance.

A "non-dairy whipped topping propellant" stupor?

[Lead Head]

Lol, if that isn't a reference to me possibly being mentally compromised, then it went over my head.

 

I definitely stand by my statement that 14lb sniper holds up better than 12lb BG on the jetties and wing dams I grind my cranks through. Recently, I have noticed what I believe to be zebra mussels in a few places. I'm sure they are hard on line as well. Maybe something else is coming into play that I'm missing, but I retie less and lose far fewer lures with the Sniper. 

 

I still retie enough that I'm considering going braid to leader on my main CB rods to cut down on wasted line. Not quite there yet, but getting close. 

 

Feel free to disagree, I value other people's opinions, especially those that conflict with my own. Those are the ones that usually end up with me changing, or reaffirming my own. I'm usually better off for it.

[WRB]

12 lb Big Game is .014D.

14 lb Sniper is .012D same as 15 Armillo and Armillo.  Both BG and Armillo have higher knot strength and abrasion resistance the Sniper FC.

It’s odd that 14 lb Sniper performs better for you the 12 lb BG?

Tom

[PhishLI]

34 minutes ago, WRB said:

12 lb Big Game is .014D.

You're correct in that's what's printed on the package, but my roll measures .0132. Go figure.

[WRB]

Big Game isn’t a precision high end mono so diameter variance would be expected.

Tom