Crankbait + Topwater Double Duty?

[Drawdown]

TL;DR, at some point I want to get a moderate/moderate fast action rod to do both topwater and crankbait duty on the TN River in different seasons. But I’m not sure what power rod to get.

Thinking of running straight braid for topwater, tying on a leader for cranks, etc.

 

I’m at the stage of life where one rod has to do 2-5 things, which is why I’m wondering what power and length of rod would made the most sense for primarily running topwater on braid in the fall, but in the spring and early summer being able to switch to throwing cranks and maybe chatterbaits after tying on a fluoro or mono leader.

 

Question would be, how heavy a lure would I be needing to throw? I would love to be able to get a good deal of distance on topwater casts.

My MH/F jig, spinnerbait casting rod can’t quite get a 1/2oz popper as far as I’d like. Don’t know if a softer action M or MH rod would solve this, or if I need to focus on getting more weight on the lure itself (which might necessitate going with a Heavy power rod).

[The Maestro]

This rod's well suited for topwaters and small crankbaits.

 

 

[Drawdown]

Wondering if the ultimate solution is two rods: one M/MF and the other H/MF, to let me cast poppers/shallow cranks on the first, and frogs/deep cranks on the other.

[The Maestro]

3 minutes ago, Drawdown said:

Wondering if the ultimate solution is two rods: one M/MF and the other H/MF, to let me cast poppers/shallow cranks on the first, and frogs/deep cranks on the other.

Doubtful that you're going to find a rod that's good for both. It's a bit like wanting a golf club that's good for driving and sand traps. 

[Jar11591]

In my experience, any rod that isn’t at least a fast action will not be a good rod for poppers and walkers.

[Drawdown]

Maybe a “parabolic” Fast action will do a better job of what I want for topwater, at least.

Then just go cheap on a dedicated M or MH power, MF action crankbait rod (like a cork-handled Berkley Lightning).

[casts_by_fly]

I prefer a faster action for topwaters like walking and poppers but a more moderate fast for Crankbaits. That said, you can do both on the same rod. The falcon all around 7’ 5 power is a good shout. Big enough to do up to a dt-10 pretty easily (a 14 at a push), fishes a 1/2 oz walking bait just fine, goes down to a small bomber squarebill or a 3.2 keitech on a small jighead.  I fish mine with 30 lb 832 braid but fished it last year with 12-17 lb mono and fluoro. It’s pretty versatile. 

[WRB]

My advice is choose what believe is the ideal top water rod, for the type and weight lures you use; power, action, length. Then chose the ideal crankbait rod for the the type and weight crank baits you use.

Tom

[BigAngus752]

You can get what you want if you just pare down your expectations a bit.  Pick one of these two rods based on your preferred length:

Okuma TCS-C-691MHa or TCS-C-701MHa

I own both (and a heavy model) and I was turned on to these rods by one of the moderators of this forum.  The two M/H I listed are the most true-to-form "all purpose" rods I have ever used, BUT every rod has it's limitations.  

 

These rods are absolutely perfect for 3/8, 1/2 and 3/4 (upper end) lipless cranks, 1/2oz squarebills, diving cranks to about 10-12ft, Zara Spooks and other walking baits, poppers, small/medium wakebaits, 3/8 spinnerbaits, etc.  No rod can do everything you ask, however.  No way you are throwing a frog, huge squarebill, deep crank, or whopper plopper with these.  I applaud you wanting/needing to be frugal, but you also must be reasonable or you will be sorely disappointed with what you spend you money on. 

 

I would suggest getting an Okuma TCS "all purpose" to cover the techniques I listed and also get a Daiwa AirdX H/F for $55 (or less on sale) to take care of your frog/whopper plopper, etc.  

 

If you buy both right now at Tackle Warehouse on sale you will spend only $169.98 with free shipping.  That is an amazing deal for two rods that will serve you very well.  

 

[BigTimeBassin]

Dobyns 705 cb. I use this rod for ploppers, spooks, poppers, square bills, lipless, and  jerkbaits. Mod fast graphite rod. Handles vision 110 jrs up to 5/8 lipless with no issues. 

[Drawdown]

Seems one of my biggest issues here for thinking through this is my unfamiliarity with topwater lures, insofar as I don’t know what they typically weigh. That’s generally true for most hard baits.

 

If someone writes a post about a jig, they’ll usually mention the weight, but posts about topwater typically just name the type of bait. So I haven’t picked up on it so much.

[DitchPanda]

6 hours ago, Drawdown said:

Maybe a “parabolic” Fast action will do a better job of what I want for topwater, at least.

Then just go cheap on a dedicated M or MH power, MF action crankbait rod (like a cork-handled Berkley Lightning).

I've got a 7ft medium mod fast lightning rod and its d**n nice for $40. I've thrown poppers, small spooks, squarebills,1\4oz lipless and even 1\4oz-3\8oz chatter baits on it and its handled them all very well. I caught a 6lb largemouth with it on a chatterbait no issues.

[Phil77]

I use a lews custom crankbait rod on my yak for square bills and walkers/poppers. It has a soft tip to help sling baits quite a ways and still has backbone to keep them pinned. Mine is a 7'3M. I've thrown all types of topwater baits but nothing deeper than a 6ft square bill and it's done both very well. I'm sure it would work with deep cranks but I just dont use those anymore. Any 6'6 and up medium rod should pull double duty just fine, just be prepared for heartache when you have a crankbait tied on and a school starts busting shad on top.

[roadwarrior]

G.Loomis GLX PR844C

 

 

                                            

[Drawdown]

Alright, I repent of my belief in the premise of the OP.

 

Going to shoot for a Medium MF casting setup for cranks and maybe a Heavy/F casting for the frogs and 3/4-1oz spooks—maybe if I get a fever and try flutter spoons next summer the latter will be the ticket, too. 

[Deleted account]

On 9/4/2022 at 3:30 PM, Drawdown said:

a “parabolic” Fast action

LMAO 

[Drawdown]

9 minutes ago, Deleted account said:

LMAO 

I blame Jacob Wheeler’s marketing of those Duckett rods for putting this idea in my head.

[The Baron]

I'm using a Dobyn's Fury FR705CB, currently paired with a Curado DC 151 spooled with Suffix Advance for whopper ploppers, poppers and spooks of about 1/2 - 3/4oz.  I've also used it for crankbaits from squarebills down to mid-depth baits (DT-10, 5XD and shallower) .  I've been very happy with this setup.  Fluoro might have some benefit for getting a little more depth from crankbaits, but the added stretch of the Suffix Advance helps keep fish pinned with treble hooks.  Also, it floats which is a bit better for poppers and spooks.  I've also found it to be very user friendly line, and very economical.

 

If you run braid for treble-hooked surface lures, I'd recommend adding a 3-4ft. leader of 12# Trilene BG.  The mono will float and has a bit more memory to help keep from overrunning your braid when working a spook.  The added stretch is also beneficial for landing fish, as mentioned above.

[galyonj]

I fish topwaters, hard jerkbaits, and cranks on a medium/mod Falcon Bucoo. I'm not shilling for this rod specifically so much as backing up @Drawdown's thinking with an anecdote because I'm procrastinating.

 

It really all depends on how deep a plug you intend to fish.

 

I think braid to leader makes a lot of sense with a multirole rig like you're asking about because the braid seems to claw back a little bit of the backbone that I lost going with the blank I did for the specific rod I discussed above. YMMV, of course.

 

If I had it to do over again, I'd go medium/fast, and I'd probably still keep the braid, and I'd have more options.

 

Multirole rigs may not excel at any one thing, but they can be awfully good at a lot of things.

[WRB]

On 9/4/2022 at 7:04 PM, Drawdown said:

Seems one of my biggest issues here for thinking through this is my unfamiliarity with topwater lures, insofar as I don’t know what they typically weigh. That’s generally true for most hard baits.

 

If someone writes a post about a jig, they’ll usually mention the weight, but posts about topwater typically just name the type of bait. So I haven’t picked up on it so much.

Top lures and crank baits usually have treble hooks. Hollow body frogs have heavy wire double hooks.

The rod cast and works the top water lures like poppers and dog walking lures. Longer rods over 7’ don’t works poppers or dog walking lures well. A moderate action rod looses force setting heavy frog hooks.

Crank baits normally require a moderate action rod that loads up to launch the lure further with ease. Longer rods over 7’ and popular for deep diving crank baits. Lipless and shallow to medium divers a 7’ rod moderate action top water rod will work OK.

It’s the larger, heavier deep diving lures and heavy wire frog hooks that separate the need for 2 different rods.

Irod Gen 3 IRG754F can be used for big deep diving lures, frogs and big flutter spoons.

Several choices for top water and smaller crank baits.

Tom

PS, TW lists nearly all lure weights

[roadwarrior]

12 hours ago, WRB said:

 

It’s the larger, heavier deep diving lures and heavy wire frog hooks that separate the need for 2 different rods.

 

 

                                     

[Bankc]

On 9/4/2022 at 9:10 PM, DitchPanda said:

I've got a 7ft medium mod fast lightning rod and its d**n nice for $40. I've thrown poppers, small spooks, squarebills,1\4oz lipless and even 1\4oz-3\8oz chatter baits on it and its handled them all very well. I caught a 6lb largemouth with it on a chatterbait no issues.

That's what I use as well.  It'll be the next rod I replace, as it's not as sensitive as I'd like, but that's not a big deal for topwaters and crankbaits.  It's great for poppers, spooks, and crankbaits that dive down to about 6 feet.  

 

I'd probably look at a MH/F for frogs, chatterbaits, and deep diving crankbaits.  It wouldn't be the best rod for any of those techniques, but it would work well enough to get you by.  Plus you could do T-rig worms and other techniques.  It would be a good two rod setup that would cover a ton of ground for you.  

[Drawdown]

On 9/6/2022 at 8:24 PM, WRB said:

Top lures and crank baits usually have treble hooks. Hollow body frogs have heavy wire double hooks.

The rod cast and works the top water lures like poppers and dog walking lures. Longer rods over 7’ don’t works poppers or dog walking lures well. A moderate action rod looses force setting heavy frog hooks.

Crank baits normally require a moderate action rod that loads up to launch the lure further with ease. Longer rods over 7’ and popular for deep diving crank baits. Lipless and shallow to medium divers a 7’ rod moderate action top water rod will work OK.

It’s the larger, heavier deep diving lures and heavy wire frog hooks that separate the need for 2 different rods.

Irod Gen 3 IRG754F can be used for big deep diving lures, frogs and big flutter spoons.

Several choices for top water and smaller crank baits.

Tom

PS, TW lists nearly all lure weights

Thanks for this.

I like the look of that 7’5” Heavy iRod Genesis 3. Seems like it’d be perfect for summer (might even give heavy hair jigs a gander, too) and fall.
 

While I save up for one (and a reel to go with it), I’ll probably throw 1oz spooks and frogs on the 7’6” MH/F casting setup I have now (Carbonlite 2.0) and do light poppers on my spinning M/F setup on 20lb braid. 1/8-3/16oz 3” paddletails on my ML.

Ideally, by next spring I’ll also have a cheaper moderate fast medium casting setup with a cheap-ish Black Max reel for the light cranks. If not, I’ll just make it work with a medium spinning rod.