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  • Super User
Posted

So I fished the Delta Friday, and while going through a fairly shallow area I hit something that put a nice little wave in one of my prop blades. I run a Tempest 3 blade prop on my Mercury Racing 300. Its not bad, but from what Ive been told I should not run the boat til I get it fixed. Any one have any dealings with Phils Prop Service in Shasta, CA?

  • Super User
Posted

I think you received some good advice.  It is possible you could have bent your prop shaft when you bent the prop.  Running your boat with a bent prop shaft will ruin the seals.

  • Super User
Posted

You definitly do not want to spin up that 300 with a damaged prop.

If I was going to have it repaired, I would send it to Bob Lipton at Performance Props. http://gbiz.org/Missouri-Yellow-Pages/St%20Charles/St-Charles-County/Performance-Propeller/6369493121/index.htm. He can tune it for you're boat and you will notice a difference.

Actually, I would have him tune a brand new prop before I ran it. 

Rich Boger was another one that's good with them but I'm not sure if he's still around or not. He was one of the more expensive props guys but was good.

  • BassResource.com Administrator
Posted

Sorry to hear about your dinged prop, but it could've been worse.  So count your blessings.  The advice you got was sage.  Do NOT run the motor until it's fixed. 

Phil's Prop Shop in Shasta is arguably THE best prop shop east of the Mississippi.

  • Super User
Posted
Sorry to hear about your dinged prop, but it could've been worse. So count your blessings. The advice you got was sage. Do NOT run the motor until it's fixed.

Phil's Prop Shop in Shasta is arguably THE best prop shop east of the Mississippi.

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  • BassResource.com Administrator
Posted

East, West, whatever. 

  • Super User
Posted

I figured running a 300 racing Merc on a bass boat, one would be looking for the best bang for the buck in a performance prop.  I've never seen an off the shelf prop that will perform with one that has been in the hands of a good tunner.  I know bunches of racers running Bob Lipton's props, but seriously doubt you will find one running one from Phil's.  Most any cookie cutter prop shop can throw one on the die for that blade and give you back one close to OEM specs.  None of the cookie cutter shops and very few prop guys can massage one so it's optimized for your boat/motor combination.   

It's been so many years since I've run a "stock" prop, I would feel like I was going out with something wrong if I  had to.

One word of caution though, Bob Lipton does not polish a prop, he leaves them with a satin finish.  A satin finish has less drag in the water.  If looking for shine over performance, don't call him.

Rich Boger polished his up all nice and shiney, but he charges for all that extra shine.

  • Super User
Posted

Interesting that you mention that about the polish.  Phils asked if I wanted it polished and I asked what the difference was.  "For show".

I said no thanks.   ;D

  • Super User
Posted

Explain how "less drag" with a prop is a bad thing. Props don't drag, they transfer power to the water and any air bubbles on the blade surfaces will increase slip. It makes more sense to have a polished prop to get max water contact. Even sharp leading edges on prop blades will promote better grip.

Rougher surfaces on a hull or motor lower unit is a good thing to break up surface tension.

  • Super User
Posted

As the prop is cutting through the water, the water is passing over the surface area of the blade with a lot of pressure against it.  A smooth, polished surface makes the water want to adhere to the blade, creating drag.  A properly textured surface on the blades create microscopic air bubbles that keeps the water from adhereing to the blade, so it passes through the water much easier.

Same principle as sanding the last three feet of the pad with 320 grit paper, the boat will run faster.  Wax it and it will run slower.  I gained 5 mph in my old Startos 285 Pro just by blueprinting the hull.  I went from 79.3 to 84.7 mph without touching anything else.  However, everything else had already been tweeked. 

Now!!! Understand, I'm talking about high performance bass boats that run in the 70's or more.    All this means diddly in your boats running around at 50 mph.

  • Super User
Posted

What the heck did you hit, Robert?  Thats a nasty ding.

  • Super User
Posted

I was cruising through a flat, and heard a thud....was going really slow.   

It looks worse than int actually is guys.  Ill post pics of the repaired prop once I get it back.  No fishing for me this weekend.  ::o

  • Super User
Posted

Why not just buy a new prop and have the repaired one for a spare.  Maybe even get a four blade and see how you like it.  Sometimes on the heavier bowed boats, like some of the Rangers, they actually help hold be bow up and they run better. 

There's no way a prop is going to keep me off the water if I was wanting to go.  I've probably got 1/2 dozen different cut's and styles I keep laying around.  All for the same motor, just for different situations.

  • Super User
Posted
East, West, whatever.

Approximately 24,000 miles east.  I think going west of the Mississippi to get there is a shortcut.   :o

Posted
So I fished the Delta Friday, and while going through a fairly shallow area I hit something that put a nice little wave in one of my prop blades. I run a Tempest 3 blade prop on my Mercury Racing 300. Its not bad, but from what Ive been told I should not run the boat til I get it fixed. Any one have any dealings with Phils Prop Service in Shasta, CA?

HA. I carry four props in a shoulder holster. On a more serious note, if your engine has any vibration, the prop isn't useable.

  • Super User
Posted

OK I'm a believer.

Phils shop fixed my prop, and I expected it back Monday...instead I received it Friday, next day after it left Phils.

Here she is back on the boat in the garage. 

DSC00395.JPG

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