Straight fluro spinning rods

[GoneFishingLTN]

Thinking of making the switch I currently am doing braid to leader. How long can you expect the fluro to last if your only fishing once or twice a week before it really starts giving issues? Does anyone go straight fluro and still recommend it? how much fluro do you put on a small spool?

 

Side note my reels are daiwa tatula 4000 size 

[Fishlegs]

I can’t answer how long it would last, but I would suggest that you consider using a mono backing. Filling a 4000 size reel with all fluoro would be fairly expensive.

[WVU-SCPA]

I do it on a few rods.  My recommendations are;

 

Find a line conditioner you like and use it often.   Can't go wrong with KVD.

 

Use another line as backing to fill the spool.  I only put on 80-100 yds of fluorocarbon.  Much cheaper and not as costly to do frequent changes while also keeping the spool "full".

 

I don't see why you couldn't use it for a year as long as you take care of it.  On some of my less used rods the fluro has been on since last spring and still performs as needed.

 

[Cbump]

I did this with a full spool of 8lb fluoro once. I didn’t like It. Hard to manage. Went back to Braid and fc leader. I imagine mono backing would have helped as well. 

[Jig Man]

I have not been able to get anything over 10# to work on a 2500 size reel.  Everything else is too stiff.  Right now I have 10# on 2 2500 reels and 6# on 4 1000 and 2000 size.  I also use KVD conditioner on them.

 

As for how long they last sometimes I get a year out of them.

[roadwarrior]

You should consider a smaller reel. Whatever you use, 60 yards of fluorocarbon

is what I recommend.  I fish #4 and #6 Tatsu.

[Junk Fisherman]

I used to use straight Gamma Touch 7 lb for small swimbaits on a spinning reel.  I planned on changing it out once a season giving me about 4-5 months on a spool.  The last year I went this route I ended up going the entire season with it since the line was fine.  But I don't consider using the line for swimbaits as very tough on the line.  If I was using the line to drag something on the bottom say a tube or a shakey head with a more strenuous hookset, I would definitely change it midway through the season.  With my baitcasters that I use for pitching, I always replace my line after a couple months.  I was burned once in a tournament thinking I could get one more weekend out of my line.

 

And if you're wondering why I stopped using the straight fluoro, it was because of casting distance.  The Gamma 7 lb Touch is awesome line but I could get about 25% greater casting distance with light lures by going with 10 lb braid and a leader.  Did a comparison in the yard measuring my casting distance using both types of line using the same rod and same lure.  

[GoneFishingLTN]

1 hour ago, roadwarrior said:

You should consider a smaller reel. Whatever you use, 60 yards of fluorocarbon

is what I recommend.  I fish #4 and #6 Tatsu.

Interesting why would you recommend a smaller reel?

[J Francho]

I'm a straight fluoro person. 6# Tasu or Invisx on a 2500 size reel works fine. The longest I went is four years and the line was fine, just getting low on the spool. 

32 minutes ago, GoneFishingLTN said:

Interesting why would you recommend a smaller reel?

Less expensive to spool up, and the extra capacity is totally unnecessary. 

[roadwarrior]

36 minutes ago, J Francho said:

Less expensive to spool up, and the extra capacity is totally unnecessary. 

 What he said and it's lighter, too!

[MN Fisher]

I probably run heavier FC on spinning than most...but it's only 8# InvizX on a 2500 reel...and only 70yds on top of cheap mono backing

 

A 4000 reel IMO would be great for inshore salt or going after musky...but not a good bass reel

[Wprich]

I've had it last 3 years before I felt I needed to change it out.  I have several of the Pflueger Supreme and Supreme XT models that came with spare spool.  I keep the spare spools with 6/8 pound fluoro for when I want to throw a crank or finesse swimbait on straight fluoro.

[WRB]

I fished 7 lb FC on 1000 and 2500 size spinning reels for over 25 years without any issues. The key to success is managing your line by untwisting it by dragging just the line behind your boat and using TangleFree conditioner.

No boat you can’t untwist the mono, copoly or FC line effectively. 

Know that I am a back seater along for the ride I am reluctantly spooling 10 lb and 15 lb Fins Spin braid for the same spinning reels using 7 lb Sniper FC leader on 10 lb. raid and 10lb Sniper FC with 15 lb braid for unweighted  Senko’s.

Still have 5 lb UG copoly on my 1000 spool no leader for slip shot presentation.

I hate using 2 knots and decided on 15’ leaders so the braid to leader knot is on the reel landing bass.

Time will tell if this works out for me.

Tom

[Bird]

I've struggled mightily with flourocarbon and spinning reels, never found holy grail...... line twist made me say bad words.

 

[padon]

9 hours ago, Jig Man said:

I have not been able to get anything over 10# to work on a 2500 size reel.  Everything else is too stiff.  Right now I have 10# on 2 2500 reels and 6# on 4 1000 and 2000 size.  I also use KVD conditioner on them.

 

As for how long they last sometimes I get a year out of them.

agree 10 pound is the max i feel is managable.

[FishTank]

6lb Seaguar Invizx or 6lb Sunline Sniper Finesse.  These lines are similar but both work great.

 

To be honest, I would stay with the braid to FC leader. I like Sunline Xplasma and Seaguar Gold Label for leader. Also, I would invest in a smaller sized reel. 

[RDB]

On 8/16/2022 at 11:04 AM, GoneFishingLTN said:

Thinking of making the switch I currently am doing braid to leader. How long can you expect the fluro to last if your only fishing once or twice a week before it really starts giving issues? Does anyone go straight fluro and still recommend it? how much fluro do you put on a small spool?

 

Side note my reels are daiwa tatula 4000 size 

Out of curiosity, is there a reason why you are considering switching to straight fluoro?  I find braid to leader much easier to manage and performs better.  IMO, the only advantage to straight fluoro for general spinning use is one less knot but I have never had failure issues with my FG’s.  I also use 15-20 foot leaders which is longer than most.

 

As @roadwarrior suggested, you may find your overall experience more enjoyable with a smaller reel if you are using spinning primarily for finesse presentations.

 

As far as line conditioners, I am absolutely in the minority on this site but I personally don’t like to use them.  For me, there are other ways to manage coiling.  Conditioners work great for their intended purpose but whenever possible, I try to minimize things that might negatively influence the bass.  Can line conditioner impact fluoro visibility or leave a slight odor.  Probably not but I have no idea…it’s likely me just being anal.  I am also the guy that washes his hands with scent free soap after taking a dip.  I have the same hesitancy with Reel Magic, etc.  My avoidance is not a statement regarding the appropriateness or others preference to use conditioners, it’s just my personal choice.  My motto is when in doubt, go without.  I would much prefer catching one big fish than 20 smalls.  I may give big fish more credit than they deserve (I don’t think so) but I will do everything in my power to remove any potential negatives, real or imagined.

[Bluebasser86]

I use straight flouro on my shakyhead rod. It's 8lb Tatsu and has been on there since last fall. 3000 size Tatula LT with 8lb Big Game backing. 

[Fishingmickey]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread so far is sensitivity (get your popcorn ready).  I think fishing straight fluorocarbon is more sensitive then fishing braid. Hear me out here. Braid is more sensitive in tight line moving bait applications. I think for bottom contact baits where you might have some slack in the line. Fluorocarbon transmits the bite better because of it's inherent stiffness. Fishing braid with slack in it. The braid is too limp for good bite transmission IMHO.  Flame on!

Fishingmickey

 

 

[RDB]

2 minutes ago, Fishingmickey said:

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread so far is sensitivity (get your popcorn ready).  I think fishing straight fluorocarbon is more sensitive then fishing braid. Hear me out here. Braid is more sensitive in tight line moving bait applications. I think for bottom contact baits where you might have some slack in the line. Fluorocarbon transmits the bite better because of it's inherent stiffness. Fishing braid with slack in it. The braid is too limp for good bite transmission IMHO.  Flame on!

Fishingmickey

 

 

I don’t think that’s an opinion worthy of flaming…I think it’s reasonable and I don’t disagree on limp line.  When I’m fishing, limp line is controlled slack (slight bow) but I rarely lose contact with the lure.  Is there a difference between bite transmission on controlled slack?  I’m sure it’s probably been studied somewhere.  All I know is for me, I don’t see a noticeable difference.

[J Francho]

46 minutes ago, Fishingmickey said:

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread so far is sensitivity (get your popcorn ready).  I think fishing straight fluorocarbon is more sensitive then fishing braid. Hear me out here. Braid is more sensitive in tight line moving bait applications. I think for bottom contact baits where you might have some slack in the line. Fluorocarbon transmits the bite better because of it's inherent stiffness. Fishing braid with slack in it. The braid is too limp for good bite transmission IMHO.  Flame on!

Fishingmickey

 

 

No flame here.  Have someone cast braid and leader into a pool with just a drop shot sinker. Have them reel in the slack, but close their eyes.  Someone in the pool grab that sinker and move it toward the person, creating slack.  They wont feel a darn thing.  Imagine grabbing that sinker on the fall.  What about an unweighted senko? Now watch those Glen Lau videos and note how so many of those bass grab the bait.  Braid and leader offers many advantages in some situations.  Greater sensitivity is NOT one of them.  Straight fluoro with a decent rod and you will feel the tick.

[roadwarrior]

16 minutes ago, J Francho said:

Straight fluoro with a decent rod and you will feel the tick.

?

[Alex from GA]

I have tried fluoro on spinning reels and removed it after one trip, too stiff.  I use it on bait casters and change it only after getting down to the knot on the mono backing.

[ChrisD46]

On 8/16/2022 at 9:48 PM, WRB said:

I fished 7 lb FC on 1000 and 2500 size spinning reels for over 25 years without any issues. The key to success is managing your line by untwisting it by dragging just the line behind your boat and using TangleFree conditioner.

No boat you can’t untwist the mono, copoly or FC line effectively. 

Know that I am a back seater along for the ride I am reluctantly spooling 10 lb and 15 lb Fins Spin braid for the same spinning reels using 7 lb Sniper FC leader on 10 lb. raid and 10lb Sniper FC with 15 lb braid for unweighted  Senko’s.

Still have 5 lb UG copoly on my 1000 spool no leader for slip shot presentation.

I hate using 2 knots and decided on 15’ leaders so the braid to leader knot is on the reel landing bass.

Time will tell if this works out for me.

Tom

*Another : "Tom's Rule" that has served me well with any FC , Mono or Co-Poly line on a spinning reel is do not exceed .010" line diameter as different line manufacturers have different line diameters in the same line size number . Seaguar InvizX #6 lb. ~ #8 lb. or Sunline Sniper #6 lb. ~ #8lb. (both with mono backing on the spinning reel first) will serve you well.

[GreenPig]

I spool the last 7 - 10' with 6 - 8 lb FC to 8 - 10 lb braid. It's like magic. No more wasting fishing time fighting my gear. That 7 - 10' of FC last one trip. I do wish you luck.