Adding a Kayak Trolling Motor

[Koz]

I love my Seastream Angler 120 pedal drive kayak, but lately, I find the need to cover more water and cover it quicker. Plus, pedaling for 90-120 minutes to get to a fishing spot is brutal in the summer heat. So now I'm thinking about adding a trolling motor, but this is opening up a can of worms. Do I try and make this work on my kayak or do I sell mine and buy a kayak designed to handle a trolling motor?

 

I could simply attach some cross bars to the kayak and clamp a simple, cheap trolling motor to it. But I think in the long run I'd be disappointed with that setup. So instead I'm looking at a bow mount option with quick connect and a remoted controlled, trolling motor with spot lock. The problem is there are no pre-made mounts for my kayak. I did reach out to OneObjective to see if they know if any of their existing mounts will work or how much it would cost for a custom build. I also reached out to Seastream to see if they know of any options and if they have any concerns regarding adding a trolling motor to teh bow.

 

If I strike out with those options I thought about creating my own mount and attaching the quick connect to that. But here's the problem - I don't do any metal fabrication. But I am handy working with wood. I'm thinking that a 3/4: - 1" thick piece of wood or plywood that is properly treated and sealed should work. I'd have to look at how the motor and quick connect plate are mounted, but my initial though is I would wither cut a handle hole to match where my current bow handle is or extend the wood plate slightly and cut a new handle. My first concern is shearing forces on both the kayak and wood plate over time, but I think that a large enough plate bolted correctly should be OK.

 

I had thought about just cutting an inset plate and mounting it inside my bow cutout, but I'm not sure that will work. I think it would be easier to mount it directly to the hull.

 

Any concerns that I may have overlooked?

 

Since I do not have access to the inside of the hull, this will probably present some minor wiring challenges. But I should be able to run some conduit within the cockpit to a battery box behind the seat. On days that I utilized the trolling motor I would pull the pedal drive and leave it at home. I can cut a plastic cap for that complete with a gasket for a fairly watertight  seal. I'd keep the rudder on to act as a skeg for better positioning stability.

 

I would also end up running two LiPo batteries - one for my electronics and one for the trolling motor. That will cut down on my available tackle storage, but I can live with that.

 

Anyway, does this sound like a doable plan? Did I miss anything? Or should I just buy a purpose built kayak?

 

Below are stock photos of the Seastream Angler 120 PD.

 

 

 

[KSanford33]

Hey Koz,

 I'm following this topic now since I have the same kayak as you, but one thing you may not have considered: I don't know the laws in GA, but here in NY if you add a trolling motor to your kayak you have to register it as a motorized vehicle with the state. Not that that's a huge deal, just something to consider. 

 In regards to the practical side of adding a trolling motor to this kayak, I'd probably go for one of these: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-pond-prowler-8-fishing-boat

 

 They're built to mount a trolling motor and it would be a nice alternative to the kayak. Oddly enough, it's only slightly heavier than our kayak! ?

[Koz]

1 minute ago, KSanford33 said:

Hey Koz,

 I'm following this topic now since I have the same kayak as you, but one thing you may not have considered: I don't know the laws in GA, but here in NY if you add a trolling motor to your kayak you have to register it as a motorized vehicle with the state. Not that that's a huge deal, just something to consider. 

 In regards to the practical side of adding a trolling motor to this kayak, I'd probably go for one of these: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-pond-prowler-8-fishing-boat

 

 They're built to mount a trolling motor and it would be a nice alternative to the kayak. Oddly enough, it's only slightly heavier than our kayak! ?

 

Yes - I will need to register it, but the cost is only $35.

 

I'd be worried that Pond Prowler would be swamped in no time on my big lake! 

 

I am looking at other options today, but mainly calculating battery life and battery types / weight. I don't want to have to paddle that beast for miles if I run out of battery.

[VolFan]

If it were mine, I would create a small access hatch to be able to put a backer on however you mount the motor to the hull. You could then use it to route the wires. There’s plenty of through-hull fittings that if you plan it right you can do a super clean install for minimal money.

[GTN-NY]

Two years ago no one had a mounting plate for a Jackson Big Rig so I made my own using this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07RWPJSS8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
 

Because the BR bow isn’t flat I found rubber corks at a hardware store and cut them to size to sport the mount plate. I used stainless hardware and the biggest fender washers I found find for inside the hull. 
I mounted the motor at an angle so I wouldn’t loose my front handle 

[flyfisher]

The stern of that kayak is going to make it somewhat challenging to mount a motor, not impossible but you'll have to reinforce it somehow, depending on the motor choice.  I wouldn't sell it and get a kayak made for a motor though becuase if you have to paddle a kayak that is made for a motor, you will regret it.  I mcuh prefer a good paddling kayak that I can add a motor instead, especially if you do any motor up and float back river type trips.  

 

I will second the starboard recommendation above as well.  I was looking for a nose mounting pl;ate for my ATAK120 and nobody had them in stock so i bought some 1/2" starboard and made my own and it worked out just fine.

 

I have also seen guys use tracks mounted across the rear of a kayak to mount torqeedo style motors as well.

 

[casts_by_fly]

How involved do you want to get vs how much do you want to spend?

 

the easiest solution but most expensive is to sell and get an autopilot. I have a 120 and it’s an awesome fishing machine. Spotlock is incredible. I’d get the 136 to do it again as there is minimal downside in the extra length and it’s only 4 lb heavier. You get an extra foot of space up front and 6” in the back. Neither is a light and portable boat, but if you’re going to add a motor to anything it isn’t going to be light and portable. If I remember, you have a hill to cart your kayak up and down, right?  Keep that in mind.

 

most work but keeping your boat is fabbing a mount out of starboard and similar then getting the xi3 kayak. That’s what a lot of guys do who fish tournaments since you can take the motor off when you need. You’ll need to be handy to sort a mount out. 
 

a rail mount and a transom mount motor on the side will get you the distance you want.  Canoe guys have been doing it for ages. Transom mount motors are cheap. Not sure what you can mount to. 
 

the other option is to cut down a transom mount and make a mount that fits your PDL drive out of a plate.  Mount the cut down motor to the plate. It’s very diy and works best if you have a used motor already but it kinda turns you into a MK style kayak. It’s a lot of fab with pvc pipe, starboard, and wire. 

[Koz]

5 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

How involved do you want to get vs how much do you want to spend?

 

the easiest solution but most expensive is to sell and get an autopilot. I have a 120 and it’s an awesome fishing machine. Spotlock is incredible. I’d get the 136 to do it again as there is minimal downside in the extra length and it’s only 4 lb heavier. You get an extra foot of space up front and 6” in the back. Neither is a light and portable boat, but if you’re going to add a motor to anything it isn’t going to be light and portable. If I remember, you have a hill to cart your kayak up and down, right?  Keep that in mind.

 

most work but keeping your boat is fabbing a mount out of starboard and similar then getting the xi3 kayak. That’s what a lot of guys do who fish tournaments since you can take the motor off when you need. You’ll need to be handy to sort a mount out. 
 

a rail mount and a transom mount motor on the side will get you the distance you want.  Canoe guys have been doing it for ages. Transom mount motors are cheap. Not sure what you can mount to. 
 

the other option is to cut down a transom mount and make a mount that fits your PDL drive out of a plate.  Mount the cut down motor to the plate. It’s very diy and works best if you have a used motor already but it kinda turns you into a MK style kayak. It’s a lot of fab with pvc pipe, starboard, and wire. 

 

Money isn't the issue. I can spend what it takes, but the fact is I am frugal. If I can find a way to get the same result without of spending a ton of money, I'll do that and DIY what I have to.

 

As for transporting everything, I'll be buying a new SUV by the end of the year and I plan to get the tow package and get a trailer for my kayak. I prefer a purpose built kayak trailer, but I've seen videos of guys doing great things with a cheap Harbor Freight trailer.

 

From what I've seen, the Xi3 is the way to go and that's probably what I will purchase. I'm sure there is probably a way to mount it where the pedal unit goes, but I think that it would be best to spend some money and have a locking system custom built with the proper seal. I've heard of people get a lot of water intrusion from there at speed. Also, I've read that with the motor in the center guys are still having to use their paddle and / or rudder because it decreases the turning radius.

 

I have a lot to figure out if I want this to work without a hassle. I really like my kayak and don't want to sell it, but that may be the way to go.

[casts_by_fly]

6 hours ago, Koz said:

 

Money isn't the issue. I can spend what it takes, but the fact is I am frugal. If I can find a way to get the same result without of spending a ton of money, I'll do that and DIY what I have to.

 

As for transporting everything, I'll be buying a new SUV by the end of the year and I plan to get the tow package and get a trailer for my kayak. I prefer a purpose built kayak trailer, but I've seen videos of guys doing great things with a cheap Harbor Freight trailer.

 

From what I've seen, the Xi3 is the way to go and that's probably what I will purchase. I'm sure there is probably a way to mount it where the pedal unit goes, but I think that it would be best to spend some money and have a locking system custom built with the proper seal. I've heard of people get a lot of water intrusion from there at speed. Also, I've read that with the motor in the center guys are still having to use their paddle and / or rudder because it decreases the turning radius.

 

I have a lot to figure out if I want this to work without a hassle. I really like my kayak and don't want to sell it, but that may be the way to go.

if money isn’t much of an issue, then either fab a mount for an xi3 on the front of your boat, or buy an autopilot. You are $750 for the xi3.  I bet you  are $150 for material. A brand new autopilot is $4200 but I bet you could get one loaded up in your area for the same price and it would include ‘stuff’.  If you’re going to trailer it you can probably get a used one on a trailer for barely more than a new one. I don’t know the used market for your boat. Given the choice, the autopilot is pretty great. 

[Bankc]

Get some 24-gauge SS sheet metal for the backing plate.  Decide on the shape, cut it out with some tin snips, and drill your holes.  24-guage is still strong enough to support the bolts without tearing out, yet thin enough to bend and cut by hand, so other than tin snips and drill bits hard enough to go through steel, you don't need any special tools.  

[TnRiver46]

It is extremely easy to mount a trolling motor to one of these

 

[Dwight Hottle]

If you get an electronic trolling motor with a key fob operator you don't need a foot control. You can hang it around your neck or attached it to a belt loop. I never used my foot control on my last two boats. Thumb or finger only. The auto pilot allows to set a compass direction for course then just fine adjust with the remote control.

[Darth-Baiter]

i sold my Hobie Compass for one reason.  i wanted the option to install a torquedo type motor.  so i bought an Outback that has the inserts out back for the powerpole and trolling motor option.

 

i have yet to buy a motor, but at least the option is there.  maybe one day.  yesterday was the first time, i thought, " i should pull the trigger on the motor...".  i was using google earth to map out travel distance to some lagoon i found on the Delta.  the closest marina to launch from is not that close. 

 

i think sometimes you need to start with the correct blank canvas.  

[Togue]

I have a Pro Angler 14 and recently put an xi3

 on the front. Without any experience with your particular kayak, I'd say a concern would be the weight of the motor itself. I think it's about 35 lbs and I was inpressed how much it weighed down the front of mine even with the battery all the way in the back. If I lean forward I get water on deck through the scuppers.

 

From the pics it looks like the kayak you have is pretty low to the water. Depends on your weight and gear but I'd personally hesitate to put the xi3 on kayaks that aren't the biggest barges available. 

 

Otherwise, I am very happy with my 60 ah LiFePo and xi3. I put the battery in a small pelican case and it only weighs 15 lbs. I plan to get a 14-16' jon boat to bring friends out and will run the motor on that as well. I like the versatility to still use the pedals or throw the motor on something else. 

[Koz]

53 minutes ago, Togue said:

Without any experience with your particular kayak, I'd say a concern would be the weight of the motor itself. I think it's about 35 lbs and I was inpressed how much it weighed down the front of mine even with the battery all the way in the back. If I lean forward I get water on deck through the scuppers.

 

I've been thinking about that as well and I'm waiting to hear back from the manufacturer. It might make more sense to get a 20-23lb basic Newport Vessels $200 trolling motor and a Railblaza mount to get me where I need to go and then when I get there instead of having a spot lock unit I just rely on my pedal drive for positioning.

 

The more I dig into this subject the more I realize that it's not quite so easy to do if I want it to be just right.

[TnRiver46]

1 hour ago, Togue said:

I have a Pro Angler 14 and recently put an xi3

 on the front. Without any experience with your particular kayak, I'd say a concern would be the weight of the motor itself. I think it's about 35 lbs and I was inpressed how much it weighed down the front of mine even with the battery all the way in the back. If I lean forward I get water on deck through the scuppers.

 

From the pics it looks like the kayak you have is pretty low to the water. Depends on your weight and gear but I'd personally hesitate to put the xi3 on kayaks that aren't the biggest barges available. 

 

Otherwise, I am very happy with my 60 ah LiFePo and xi3. I put the battery in a small pelican case and it only weighs 15 lbs. I plan to get a 14-16' jon boat to bring friends out and will run the motor on that as well. I like the versatility to still use the pedals or throw the motor on something else. 

Only 15 lbs for the battery is pretty awesome, I gain that much weight after a weekend of cookouts 

[Koz]

On 8/6/2022 at 5:33 PM, KSanford33 said:

Hey Koz,

 I'm following this topic now since I have the same kayak as you,

 

I'm not a Facebook fan and the only reason I have an account is for my Oculus Quest 2, but the guys at Seastream told me to check out a Seastream FB group and I did that today.  I didn't see much on trolling motors, but I did see some great mods to raise the seat height.

 

One thing I have always thought was that raising the seat a little bit would give you a better angle to pedal. increase stamina, and reduce any leg cramps. From what I read, that was exactly the case.

[GTN-NY]

11 hours ago, Koz said:

I've been thinking about that as well and I'm waiting to hear back from the manufacturer. It might make more sense to get a 20-23lb basic Newport Vessels $200 trolling motor and a Railblaza mount to get me where I need to go and then when I get there instead of having a spot lock unit I just rely on my pedal drive for positioning.

 

The more I dig into this subject the more I realize that it's not quite so easy to do if I want it to be just right.

IMO the big thing about a bow mount is I stand to fish all day so a bow mount is the way to go. 
If standing isn’t your thing then rear mounted motor will work. Rear mounted motors weigh less and are a lot less expensive but more complicated to rig

[casts_by_fly]

11 hours ago, Koz said:

 

I'm not a Facebook fan and the only reason I have an account is for my Oculus Quest 2, but the guys at Seastream told me to check out a Seastream FB group and I did that today.  I didn't see much on trolling motors, but I did see some great mods to raise the seat height.

 

One thing I have always thought was that raising the seat a little bit would give you a better angle to pedal. increase stamina, and reduce any leg cramps. From what I read, that was exactly the case.

this is an old town PDL and not mine, but the theory is the same. 
 

 

[Koz]

The more I explore this the more I go down the rabbit hole. The reason I bought 1 $1,500 kayak and not a $3,500 kayak was not because of the difference in price, but because I didn't want to shell out a ton of money in case I did not like it. I've got that same thing going on with a trolling motor.

 

I like the features of the Minn Kota or the MotorGuide with GPS, but it's a lot of money up front (if I end up not liking a trolling motor on my kayak) and I still need to develop a custom mounting solution for the bow.

 

So then I thought about adding a $180 (36 pound thrust) or $250 (55 pound thrust) transom mount Newport Vessels trolling motor to see if I liked having a trolling motor. I could use the Railblaza motor mount ($150) which would also allow me to keep my pedal drive on the kayak at the same time. 

 

I did figure out how to mount it off the back of my kayak by making a cheap plywood sandwich plate over the rear grab handle. But then I would need to disconnect my kayak rudder. I'd also have to disconnect the head unit and mount it by the cockpit and come up with a quick connect/disconnect steering mechanism so I could still easily lower and raise the motor. Cables and eyebolts along with some foot pedals would do the trick, but that also means adding foot pedals and tracks, another cost plus the other hardware.

 

The more I think about it, I don't need to go that route because without a spot lock motor my main goal will be to use it only to cover long distances. For short distances and while fishing I will still use my pedal drive.

 

So the Railblaza option is the easiest. But then we get to adding another battery and battery box, with the battery being the key issue. The places I want to fish are 2-3 miles from where I launch. The 55lb thrust motor draws 43 amps (52 max) at full speed of 4.3 mph. So if I take amp hours / amp draw = run time a 100AH battery gives me about 2.3 hours running time, which isn't very much.

 

The 36lb thrust model draws a maximum of 29 amps with a top speed of 3.5 mph. That gives me about 3.4 hours of battery life at top speed or might give me the option of dropping to a 60AH - 75AH battery. A 75AH AGM battery is still about 50 pounds but can be had for $150 - $200. Interestingly enough, there's not much savings in dropping from a 100AH lithium batter to a 60AH or 75AH lithium battery.

 

I could go slower, but my cruising speed when pedaling long distance is 3 mph and my main goal is getting to my fishing spots quicker so that I have more time to fish. An added benefit is not being wiped out when I get there.

 

The batteries themselves are an issue. A 100AH AGM battery weighs about 66 pounds and they aren't all that cheap at $220 - $300. A 100AH lithium battery weighs only about 25 pounds, but costs $320 - $900. Add a battery box for another $70 on top of that.

 

My kayak is already crowded with my C-Tug, chairback cooler, crate, and dry bag. To save weight and space I can ditch the crate and store some Planos under my seat. But I lose 4 rod holders by removing the crate so that means adding track and 4 more rod holders, which is another $200.

 

So what I'm getting at for those also considering adding a trolling motor to their kayak is that a $200 trolling motor is going to end up costing you a LOT more than that.

 

My conclusions? The first thing is that while I'm going to save a lot of physical effort, I'm not going to save a lot of time getting from place to place and my range is limited unless I'm willing to invest in hooking up multiple batteries and that would mean investing in Lipo batteries because of weight considerations. Or I could just go slower and chew up my fishing time unless I took up trolling. 

 

As it stands, adding the battery, motor, mount, and battery box are about $850. Add another $200 if I dump my heavy crate and add rod holders and track. But Brooklyn Kayak has a purpose built kayak with a trolling motor for about $1,500. Better yet, I could sell my kayak and buy an Old Town Sportsman Autopilot for $4k or a Sportsman with a Minn Kota for $3k.

 

So I'm in limbo. I'm not sure if there's enough cost/benefit to upgrade my current kayak. I'll probably stew over this for a month or two before deciding if I should upgrade or just sell it and buy an Old Town. But of course, now I've started looking at buying a boat as well. Down the rabbit hole...

[casts_by_fly]

25 minutes ago, Koz said:

The more I explore this the more I go down the rabbit hole. The reason I bought 1 $1,500 kayak and not a $3,500 kayak was not because of the difference in price, but because I didn't want to shell out a ton of money in case I did not like it. I've got that same thing going on with a trolling motor.

 

I like the features of the Minn Kota or the MotorGuide with GPS, but it's a lot of money up front (if I end up not liking a trolling motor on my kayak) and I still need to develop a custom mounting solution for the bow.

 

So then I thought about adding a $180 (36 pound thrust) or $250 (55 pound thrust) transom mount Newport Vessels trolling motor to see if I liked having a trolling motor. I could use the Railblaza motor mount ($150) which would also allow me to keep my pedal drive on the kayak at the same time. 

 

I did figure out how to mount it off the back of my kayak by making a cheap plywood sandwich plate over the rear grab handle. But then I would need to disconnect my kayak rudder. I'd also have to disconnect the head unit and mount it by the cockpit and come up with a quick connect/disconnect steering mechanism so I could still easily lower and raise the motor. Cables and eyebolts along with some foot pedals would do the trick, but that also means adding foot pedals and tracks, another cost plus the other hardware.

 

The more I think about it, I don't need to go that route because without a spot lock motor my main goal will be to use it only to cover long distances. For short distances and while fishing I will still use my pedal drive.

 

So the Railblaza option is the easiest. But then we get to adding another battery and battery box, with the battery being the key issue. The places I want to fish are 2-3 miles from where I launch. The 55lb thrust motor draws 43 amps (52 max) at full speed of 4.3 mph. So if I take amp hours / amp draw = run time a 100AH battery gives me about 2.3 hours running time, which isn't very much.

 

The 36lb thrust model draws a maximum of 29 amps with a top speed of 3.5 mph. That gives me about 3.4 hours of battery life at top speed or might give me the option of dropping to a 60AH - 75AH battery. A 75AH AGM battery is still about 50 pounds but can be had for $150 - $200. Interestingly enough, there's not much savings in dropping from a 100AH lithium batter to a 60AH or 75AH lithium battery.

 

I could go slower, but my cruising speed when pedaling long distance is 3 mph and my main goal is getting to my fishing spots quicker so that I have more time to fish. An added benefit is not being wiped out when I get there.

 

The batteries themselves are an issue. A 100AH AGM battery weighs about 66 pounds and they aren't all that cheap at $220 - $300. A 100AH lithium battery weighs only about 25 pounds, but costs $320 - $900. Add a battery box for another $70 on top of that.

 

My kayak is already crowded with my C-Tug, chairback cooler, crate, and dry bag. To save weight and space I can ditch the crate and store some Planos under my seat. But I lose 4 rod holders by removing the crate so that means adding track and 4 more rod holders, which is another $200.

 

So what I'm getting at for those also considering adding a trolling motor to their kayak is that a $200 trolling motor is going to end up costing you a LOT more than that.

 

My conclusions? The first thing is that while I'm going to save a lot of physical effort, I'm not going to save a lot of time getting from place to place and my range is limited unless I'm willing to invest in hooking up multiple batteries and that would mean investing in Lipo batteries because of weight considerations. Or I could just go slower and chew up my fishing time unless I took up trolling. 

 

As it stands, adding the battery, motor, mount, and battery box are about $850. Add another $200 if I dump my heavy crate and add rod holders and track. But Brooklyn Kayak has a purpose built kayak with a trolling motor for about $1,500. Better yet, I could sell my kayak and buy an Old Town Sportsman Autopilot for $4k or a Sportsman with a Minn Kota for $3k.

 

So I'm in limbo. I'm not sure if there's enough cost/benefit to upgrade my current kayak. I'll probably stew over this for a month or two before deciding if I should upgrade or just sell it and buy an Old Town. But of course, now I've started looking at buying a boat as well. Down the rabbit hole...

 

 

You've pretty much hit the nail on the head and now understand why the autopilot was created.  In life, you can pretty much make anything work.  People started with basic paddle kayaks, then pedals came out.  Then people realized you could add motors.  Handy people mocked things up with what they had.  And then, an industry was born.  All of the options you talk about can be done and every one has a drawback.  Like you said, by the time you add it up, you might as well go whole hog.  You either stick with a good PDL or you go whole hog and do a full trolling motor based boat.

 

Couple things to help you down the path.  Once you're on the water, having an autopilot is awesome.  It is a fishing machine.  If you fish offshore, then spotlock is great.  If you beat the bank then cruise control and navigation is perfect.  You know when you hook a fish in your boat and he pulls you just as much as you pull him and you end up in the cover you're fishing?  A quick spotlock fixes that (I know you can pedal backwards too).

 

Speed is not the bag of a kayak.  If speed is your priority, then you need to get a bigwater PDL or similar water cutting kayak and not a barge like the autopilot.  The bigwater with pedals will do 5.5-6 mph.  The autopilot tops out at 4.  That's all due to hull design.

 

You're pretty close on your amperage calculations.  On full speed the autopilot (45 lb thrust) draws 45 amps I think and does 4 mph.  For the 2 miles you want to go, that's a 30 minute run and you're going to burn 25 amp-hours.  On a 100 ah lithium that's roughly a quarter charge (you have 90% of the stated capacity nominally).  And you'll have that getting back, so you've burned 55-60% of your battery in motoring.  The remaining 25-30% of usable charge is plenty to fish around and spot lock in place.  Spot lock takes nothing unless you're in current.  If you were motoring and then using your pedals for fishing then you'd be in the same boat.

 

If you go with a motor, a 100AH lithium is your starting point.  I have an 80 and can get by because I fish a lot of smaller water and I have a battery meter to keep an eye on.  I wish I had just gone 100 and I'd never worry.  

 

If you go autopilot, just get the 136.  Its 4 lb heavier but you get 12" in front cockpit and 6" in the back well.  Its marginally faster by 0.1-0.3 mph from what I hear, but I can't confirm that.  

 

The only functional downside is the size.  Its a big boat and a heavy boat.  Its closer to a boat than a kayak at times.  I can mostly use boat ramps to launch from the bed of the truck, so I only have to lift it in and out semi empty (battery and seat in the boat, motor and gear already removed and in the truck).  Even still, its 150 lb that I'm moving  If you're loading it with the motor and your fishing gear, it's a 200 lb boat to move on a kayak cart.  That's a lot.  

[Bankc]

Yeah, I was there once.  I just bought a Minn Kota Endura 30 and a lead acid battery.  I mounted my trolling motor off to the side for about a year.  It was the easiest and cheapest option.  Eventually, I upgraded to a PCM speed controller and mounted the trolling motor at the stern and installed some foot pedals.  Recently, I replaced that lead acid battery with a lithium.  It was a lot easier to spread the costs out over 3 years, and it really didn't cost me that much more than if I had spent all of that at once.  I installed all of that stuff myself, but I like doing projects like that, so that was part of the fun for me.  

 

If you're not into projects, I'd sell what you have and buy a fully rigged one.  In the end, it would probably cost you about the same, and you'd save yourself a lot of time and hassle.  It would be all up front, however.  And you'd have to go through the trouble of selling your current kayak.  But one thing that's easy to forget about when undertaking your own project is all of the tools and expendable stuff you'll have to buy, like rivets, well nuts, marine Goop, maybe a plastic soldering iron, something to feed wires, etc.  They can add up.

[Togue]

Definitely been there too. My goals for a trolling motor on the kayak were the opposite of yours. I am strictly in it for the spot lock and ability to cruise shorelines while standing and fishing. For context of my use, I have a 60ah lithium and can get 3 full days of pond fishing out of it. When I fish bigger bodies of water I leave the motor at home and use the pedals.

 

From what you've said it seems like an aluminum boat with small outboard might suite your needs best. It is all about keeping the rod in your hand the longest. If you are starting each trip with 2-3 miles, a kayak is wasting your time.

[bulldog1935]

Not recommending this device, because it's crazy expensive, but it's an exceptional concept, and really well-made

https://texaspowerpaddle.com/products/

 

Their lithium battery is in a sealed pelican box with controller hook-up, the drive options include a swing-plate on your pedal-drive well, or a powered rudder blade. 

[VolFan]

Buy a pontoon boat, moor it at the hotel dock. Provide occasional lake cruises. Write it off as a business expense. 
 

(also I have a 45 lb minnkota you can have if you’re ever near Charlotte, just to get it out of the garage)