Cheap fish finder troubles

[Syppy]

So I bought a cheap little Eagle Cuda 300 just to get the hang of depth and fish finders, and now I'm more confused then ever.

It worked well for finding depth, but that seems to be about it. It was alarming for fish all over, and I can't really tell structure on the bottom.  When I turned off it's fish ID, what I'm getting is a ton of "blobs" rather than "arches" that are supposed to indicate fish. 

Anyone have any suggestions as to why this thing is showing weird blobs rather than fish? Or anything I can tweak to make it more "understandable"?

[slonezp]

Sounds like you need to turn the sensitivity down

[SoFlaBassAddict]

Read through this page. Great info on using a sonar.  Don't mind the fact that it's showing a color unit.  They all work basically the same way.

http://fishinweb.com/messages/messages/13028/13028.html?1254779454

Remember, you won't always get a fish arch, even if it's a fish. They have to pass completely through the cone to get that "arch." Make sure you have the transducer angle correct wherever you mounted it. If it's not running level it can throw off the readings as well.

[Wayne P.]

Read these articles and the tutorial on the Lowrance web site.

http://fishinweb.com/messages/messages/13028/13028.html?1258393767

[Crestliner2008]

Not sure just how "cheap" the unit you have is? Does it have setting adjustments? Like ping speed, chart speed, sensitivity? If so, do the following:

1) Set your ping speed at max. (if no adjustment, we have to assume it's there already!)

2) Set your chart speed at 70% - to give you the maximum amount of "pings" per movement of your chart, for greater definition.

3) Sensitivity level should be adjusted to about 80% depending on the speed you want to see that bottom at. You should be looking for structure and bait on the bottom (forget about fish). If you find bait on structure, the fish will be there as well. If this is your intent, then the 80% setting is ideal. At full throttle, you'll get a lot of "clutter" throughout the water column, but that will subside when you slow down to really do your searching.

4) Get rid of the "Fish I.D." setting, if that's what it has. Looking at little "fishies" is cute, but sucks up a lot of definition in your unit. Learn to use fish arches instead. Will increase your visual definition tremendously and you won't get as many false readings. And for goodness sake, take off the "beeper". When you want to look at your sonar, you will see what it's showing you. Sound affects do nothing to enhance your sonar experience.

Try this. Betcha your life gets better.

[Syppy]

K, So I'm on the lake right now and I'm getting a little better feel for it all but still struggling to find good structure that i can identify as such.

my available settings are: Depth range, zoom, sensitivity, Grayline, Chart Speed, Fish Id, then random alarms for depth and battery and such, and noise rejection.

Got most figured out  thanks to those  articles (thanks guys).  But I can't figure out this Grayline. What's Best for this setting?

[Bigbarge50]

These are some great articles.  Thanks.

I am looking myself for a portable unit for my new inflatable set up.  This is not your typical inflatable though, can have a 15 hp outboard on it.... it is like what divers use.....aluminum floor and everything. 

I have not really be interested in a cast out, or floater style, more interested in a suction mounted transducer, though I could mount on my transom or on the transom electric motor I have.  Also not afraid to spend a few bucks for a better unit (esp color) but have no need for something that has a gps and charts as of now. 

So any recommendations?  Anyone use a good portable unit?  Anyone use the stick models?   

[Wayne P.]

Sippi, I have that unit as a spare for the Lowrance X51 Pro that was factory rigged on my Tracker. It is the exactly the same with a different name.

I only use it for depth and some detail while underway, I have two other units for serious fishing use.

[bassmanET]

Sippi,

The gray scale lets you know what's on the bottom.

Rock or mud? Thicker gray scale is rock, thinner is mud.

The gray scale is the the line on the bottom of your screen (contour of the bottom).

I have the same unit on my crawdad. Its not the greatest for finding structure. But, like the other guys said, look for depth, drop offs, islands & baitfish. The bigger the arc, the bigger the fish too. So, if you see a  whole bunch of small arcs together, that is probably a small school of fish. Hope this helps!