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  • Super User
Posted
10 hours ago, Ohioguy25 said:

Are you saying the ratio of braid to leader effects breakage? I am exclusively breaking off from abrasion on the 8 lb Sunline FC Leader I’ve been using. What do you suggest?


No, though that could play a small part. I’m suggesting you use line diameter as a basis for selecting your leader, not material or pound test. If you’re breaking off with 8 lb., you probably need a thicker leader line than whatever your 8 lb Sunline is. For example, even though they’re rated the same test, something like 8 lb Big Game line is probably thicker than your 8 lb Sunline and may work better for you, or simply try moving up to 10 or 12 lb Sunline, which will be thicker than 8 lb. Keep upsizing until you reach an acceptable level of overall performance for whatever you’re using.

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  • Super User
Posted

 

 

Using the word thicker in lieu of diameter regards line drives me nuts, it’s myengineering mind set.

Sunline and Seaguar FC line diameters are nearly the same per rated pound test. Evaluating “leader” FC line the knot strength will be nearly identical, the abrasion resistance will be higher with the harder surface of leader line.

By going up in pound test  test you add approximately .0010 diameter; 8 lb FC is .0093D,10 lb is .010D or 10% greater strength.

Changing Line material from FC to Copolymer you increase both knot strength and abrasion resistance. For example 8 lb test Maxima Ultra Greem copoly is .010D, larger diameter and imo the highest knot strength and abrasion resistance available in mono line.

Braid any leader requires 2 knots, 100% greater failure rate then 1 knot using either FC or mono mainline.

To overcome leader knot breaking when the bass is being landed, the highest potential for knot failure, use longer length leader so the knot is on the reel spool landing fish.

Choices; 8 lb Maxima UG is 25% stronger knot strength then 8 lb Seaguar Gold Label FC with higher abrasion resistance.

Tom

 

Posted
1 hour ago, WRB said:

Using the word thicker in lieu of diameter regards line drives me nuts!....It’s my engineering mind set.

Sunline and Seaguar FC line diameters are nearly the same per rated pound test. Evaluating “leader” FC line the knot strength will be nearly identical, the abrasion resistance will be higher with the harder surface of leader line.

By going up in pound test  test you add approximately .0010 diameter; 8 lb FC is .0093D,10 lb is .010D or 10% greater strength.

Changing Line material from FC to Copolymer you increase both knot strength and abrasion resistance. For example 8 lb test Maxima Ultra Greem copoly is .010D, larger diameter and imo the highest knot strength and abrasion resistance available in mono line.

Braid any leader requires 2 knots, 100% greater failure rate then 1 knot 

 

Using the word thicker in lieu of diameter regards line drives me nuts!

Sunline and Seaguar FC line diameters are nearly the same per rated pound test. Evaluating “leader” FC line the knot strength will be nearly identical, the abrasion resistance will be higher with the harder surface of leader line.

By going up in pound test  test you add approximately .0010 diameter; 8 lb FC is .0093D,10 lb is .010D or 10% greater strength.

Changing Line material from FC to Copolymer you increase both knot strength and abrasion resistance. For example 8 lb test Maxima Ultra Greem copoly is .010D, larger diameter and imo the highest knot strength and abrasion resistance available in mono line.

Braid any leader requires 2 knots, 100% greater failure rate then 1 knot using either FC or mono mainline.

To overcome leader knot breaking when the bass is being landed, the highest potential for knot failure, use longer length leader so the knot is on the reel spool landing fish.

Choices; 8 lb Maxima UG is 25% stronger knot strength then 8 lb Seaguar Gold Label FC with higher abrasion resistance.

Tom

 

It is not breaking at the knot, my problem is strictly abrasion and fraying 

4 hours ago, Team9nine said:


No, though that could play a small part. I’m suggesting you use line diameter as a basis for selecting your leader, not material or pound test. If you’re breaking off with 8 lb., you probably need a thicker leader line than whatever your 8 lb Sunline is. For example, even though they’re rated the same test, something like 8 lb Big Game line is probably thicker than your 8 lb Sunline and may work better for you, or simply try moving up to 10 or 12 lb Sunline, which will be thicker than 8 lb. Keep upsizing until you reach an acceptable level of overall performance for whatever you’re using.

So the Seaguar Blue Label would be a bad choice since it is a smaller diameter than what I am currently using?

  • Super User
Posted
3 minutes ago, Ohioguy25 said:

It is not breaking at the knot, my problem is strictly abrasion and fraying 

So the Seaguar Blue Label would be a bad choice since it is thinner than what I am currently using?


That would be my guess…

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  • Super User
Posted

Any line with a larger diameter. I presently use Stren (mono), Tatsu and InvizX (Seaguar fluoros) for nearly all of my leader applications (all spinning). You could just try the next pound test (or two) higher in Blue if you like/have it, or go with something like YZH, BG, or Maxima if you want mono or hybrid. I’ve seen enough testing data over the years that suggests diameter seems more important than material type, brand or composition in this regard, generally speaking.

  • Like 1
Posted
22 minutes ago, Team9nine said:

Any line with a larger diameter. I presently use Stren (mono), Tatsu and InvizX (Seaguar fluoros) for nearly all of my leader applications (all spinning). You could just try the next pound test (or two) higher in Blue if you like/have it, or go with something like YZH, BG, or Maxima if you want mono or hybrid. I’ve seen enough testing data over the years that suggests diameter seems more important than material type, brand or composition in this regard, generally speaking.

Cool, thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/6/2022 at 3:00 PM, Team9nine said:

Any line with a larger diameter. I presently use Stren (mono), Tatsu and InvizX (Seaguar fluoros) for nearly all of my leader applications (all spinning). You could just try the next pound test (or two) higher in Blue if you like/have it, or go with something like YZH, BG, or Maxima if you want mono or hybrid. I’ve seen enough testing data over the years that suggests diameter seems more important than material type, brand or composition in this regard, generally speaking.

How much thicker do I need to go in diameter to make a notable difference and resolve my fraying/breaking issues?

  • Super User
Posted
30 minutes ago, Ohioguy25 said:

How much thicker do I need to go in diameter to make a notable difference and resolve my fraying/breaking issues?


No way to know for sure. I recently jumped a leader up less than .001” and saw a noticeable difference in performance. If you don’t have a way to measure exactly, use the measurements given online or on the actual spool as reference. In your case, maybe jump up .002” in diameter to start (example: 009” to .011”) and see what happens. You might also consider going with lighter weights on your presentation to decrease the amount of bottom contact and abrasion.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
On 9/6/2022 at 10:21 AM, Ohioguy25 said:

It is not breaking at the knot, my problem is strictly abrasion and fraying 

So the Seaguar Blue Label would be a bad choice since it is a smaller diameter than what I am currently using?

Maxima UG copoly line has the highest abrasion resistance.

Tom

Posted

Honestly, what I use is braid from 10 to 20lb test, leaders from 6 to 12lb fluoro. 

Brands, I run a bunch of different brands, I'm running Kastking KastPro 20, SK Contra 15 and Sufix 832 10 for braids. Leaders are anything from 6 and 8lb Seaguar or Yozuri to 10 and 12 Seaguar, SK Contra and Kastking Kovert. 

 

If it suits my needs and doesn't hamper me, I will use it. One thing I like about the Kovert for a leader is the stiffness. When I am throwing a Fluke, wacky or shaky, I like the added sensitivity on slack line from the stiffer line. 

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