I need a brief FICHT RAM education

[Way2slow]

The first thing you have to do is make sure all six throttle bodies are fully closed, and they all start to open at the same time.  There is a screw on the linkage side of each one the lets the the butterflies be adjusted independently if needed.  This adjustment is critical to the way the motor will idle and run, so take your time and don't mind doing it several times until it's as near perfect as you can get it.  The next step is to adjust the lever the throttle cable connects to.  You will see an arrow on it.  Adjust the stop screw that goes to the block until the arrows line up there.  NEVER use that stop to adjust the idle.  It's easier if you have the throttle cable off of it.

Once you get the throttle bodies and that lever set, then you set your NEW post (roller).  you adjust it so as you advance the arm on the side, that roller makes contact with the cam right on the arrow.  NOW, that part is set and should never be touched.  

The timing controls the idle speed and that is set by that rod going from that cam to back under the flywheel.  Wide open timing is adjusted by a stop on the other side under the flywheel.

 

[Huron Blue]

43 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Yes, and you can't do that!  If you look on top of that cam that pushing against the post you have that crap on, you will see a small arrow.   That roller/post is supposed to make contact with that cam precisely at that arrow as the throttle advances, but there are some points that must align also, all at the same time.

what is suppose to be on that post? I don't think I changed the ignition timing with that pc of rubber I put on that post I think that got it back to closer to how it was suppose to be but then again I'm not sure I will definitely check that out. I did not know about that arrow I will see how it lines up. I do recall looking in at the throttle plates and they seemed to touch / shut exactly all at the same time. thx

14 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

OK, for starters, loosen that post up or take it off to get it out of the way.  The first thing you have to do is make sure all six throttle bodies are fully closed, and they all start to open at the same time.  There is a screw on the linkage side of each one the lets the the butterflies be adjusted independently if needed.  This adjustment is critical to the way the motor will idle and run, so take your time and don't mind doing it several times until it's as near perfect as you can get it.  The next step is to adjust the lever the throttle cable connects to.  You will see an arrow on it.  Adjust the stop screw that goes to the block until the arrows line up there.  NEVER use that stop to adjust the idle.  It's easier if you have the throttle cable off of it.

Once you get the throttle bodies and that lever set, then you set your NEW post (roller).  you adjust it so as you advance the arm on the side, that roller makes contact with the cam right on the arrow.  NOW, that part is set and should never be touched.  

The timing controls the idle speed and that is set by that rod going from that cam to back under the flywheel.  Wide open timing is adjusted by a stop on the other side under the flywheel.

 

opps didn't see this at first... that's great man thanks for that info. I found the roller cam part it's on order!!

[Way2slow]

If it's the way it's supposed to be.  There is a small steel post sticking up that's fastened to the linkage at the cam.  Then there is a roller that slides on that post and held by a small o-ring at the top.  The roller is made in two layers.  There is a small black section about a 1/4" in diameter and that has clear layer over it that makes it about 3/8" in diameter.  Over time the outer layer wears away and comes off, leaving nothing but the black.  That's not an expensive it and needs to be replaced and not jerry rigged.  If the diameter is off, it throws the whole setup off.  You will probably want to get the small o-ring also, they dry and brake.  

It's been a few years since I've touched mine so if I'm off on my description and you are not understanding.  I can dig out my factory service manual and see what it shows.

[Huron Blue]

1 minute ago, Way2slow said:

If it's the way it's supposed to be.  There is a small steel post sticking up that's fastened to the linkage at the cam.  Then there is a roller that slides on that post and held by a small o-ring at the top.  The roller is made in two layers.  There is a small black section about a 1/4" in diameter and that has clear layer over it that makes it about 3/8" in diameter.  Over time the outer layer wears away and comes off, leaving nothing but the black.  That's not an expensive it and needs to be replaced and not jerry rigged.  If the diameter is off, it throws the whole setup off.  You will probably want to get the small o-ring also, they dry and brake.  

Yea I literally just ordered the roller and the O ring. It was missing for sure. Yea the black nylon is over the steel rod but there was no roller or O ring holding it on so I'll get that fixed and check out it out. Not anytime soon 10" of snow here in Michigan tonight.. why I live here I'm not sure!! lol  surprised you know this chit off the top of your head this is just from working on yours or did you work at OMC ? ha I appreciate you taking the time tho thx!

[Way2slow]

Deleted post, pics were useless

 

 

[Way2slow]

Tried one at 300dpi and it was worse.  For some reason, the pages in the manual don't scan that well.

Actually it's in the conversion.  If I scan it as a PDF it looks fine, but when it converts to JPG, it loose a lot of clarity.

 

If these prove to be useless, I can email you a PDF copy that looks fine.

 

Also, some of the stuff I referred to is actually the carbureted motor and this one is a little different, so you will probably need to refer to the manual. 

Most of the my work is one the carbureted, my ficht is the only one of these I've messed with and that has been years ago.

 

To answer you question about knowing them.  It's just I've done so much work on them building hot rod motors.  I used to take a 200hp 3.0 motor and build it to over 300hp with monster torque.  The 3.3 block will give around 450hp.  Haven't done much in several years now because of surgery I had to have on my hands from doing so much and the die grinder vibrating, over time damaged my hands and the arthritis got the best of them.  Now, I can't even use a bait caster reel because I can't get my thumb up high enough to press the release.

 

 

[Huron Blue]

9 hours ago, Way2slow said:

Tried one at 300dpi and it was worse.  For some reason, the pages in the manual don't scan that well.

Actually it's in the conversion.  If I scan it as a PDF it looks fine, but when it converts to JPG, it loose a lot of clarity.

 

If these prove to be useless, I can email you a PDF copy that looks fine.

 

Also, some of the stuff I referred to is actually the carbureted motor and this one is a little different, so you will probably need to refer to the manual. 

Most of the my work is one the carbureted, my ficht is the only one of these I've messed with and that has been years ago.

 

To answer you question about knowing them.  It's just I've done so much work on them building hot rod motors.  I used to take a 200hp 3.0 motor and build it to over 300hp with monster torque.  The 3.3 block will give around 450hp.  Haven't done much in several years now because of surgery I had to have on my hands from doing so much and the die grinder vibrating, over time damaged my hands and the arthritis got the best of them.  Now, I can't even use a bait caster reel because I can't get my thumb up high enough to press the release.

 

 

Isn't it true the 200HP and 250HP are the same block and stroke it's just the firmware bumps the HP 50HP??

[Way2slow]

NO, not in the 3.0L motors.  The 200 and the 225 are the same motors, just different carbs and intakes.  The 250/225HO has larger exhaust ports and smaller relief holes, but then everything else is the same as the 225.

 

When you get to the 200-250, 3.3L motors, I think the only major difference in those is the ECM .  I haven't messed with the factory stock motors so I wouldn't bet the farm on that.

 

Understand, I'm not an outboard mechanic and never have been.  I have worked on them most of my life but it has always been my stuff.  For many years, I bought boats in need of repair for pennies on the dollar, fixed them and sold them for supplemental income, but other than for a few close friends I didn't work on boat or motors for other people.

Same with cars, I've raced and built cars all my life.  There's nothing about one I can't do.  I do my own paint and body work, my own upholstery, engines, automatic transmissions and anything else about one.  

Other than a few warranty failures, I've never had anyone to fix anything of mine, and I mean "anything".  Refrigeration, construction, appliances, electronics (I have an engineering degree in electronics) and the list goes on.  You name it, I probably do it or have done it but it's normally all my own personal stuff.

Sometimes, I will do something for someone else as a favor when I think they really need the help, but that is strictly to help them out, and not for payment.   I have always said, someone owning you a favor is much more valuable than money. 

I can't sit around do nothing and watch very little TV.  I'm always picking up something new that strikes my interest and pretty much go at it until I master it.  Then it get's put aside for something else.  Little over a year ago, I saw a guy making a flute from PVC pipe, thought that would be something neat for the grandkids for less than a dollar apiece.  Now I'm making professional quality Native American Style Flutes and two professional native American flute players are playing a flute I gave them.  Just one of those things that caught my interest and I don't make them to sell, but have given a number of them away.  Probably won't be long before those go on the back burner for something else.

[Huron Blue]

30 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

NO, not in the 3.0L motors.  The 200 and the 225 are the same motors, just different carbs and intakes.  The 250/225HO has larger exhaust ports and smaller relief holes, but then everything else is the same as the 225.

 

When you get to the 200-250, 3.3L motors, I think the only major difference in those is the ECM .  I haven't messed with the factory stock motors so I wouldn't bet the farm on that.

 

Understand, I'm not an outboard mechanic and never have been.  I have worked on them most of my life but it has always been my stuff.  For many years, I bought boats in need of repair for pennies on the dollar, fixed them and sold them for supplemental income, but other than for a few close friends I didn't work on boat or motors for other people.

Same with cars, I've raced and built cars all my life.  There's nothing about one I can't do.  I do my own paint and body work, my own upholstery, engines, automatic transmissions and anything else about one.  

Other than a few warranty failures, I've never had anyone to fix anything of mine, and I mean "anything".  Refrigeration, construction, appliances, electronics (I have an engineering degree in electronics) and the list goes on.  You name it, I probably do it or have done it but it's normally all my own personal stuff.

Sometimes, I will do something for someone else as a favor when I think they really need the help, but that is strictly to help them out, and not for payment.   I have always said, someone owning you a favor is much more valuable than money. 

Oh yes that's what I meant 200-225 same block... I'm the same way. Rebuilt the engine in my Truck... I have NEVER paid anybody to do any repair on anything I own with the only exception a front end alignment I don't have the equipment for that. Split my work trucks trans apart and rebuilt that.. never paid anybody to work on my cars. Bought / fixed up / and sold several boats always made money.