I need a brief FICHT RAM education

[Mike 12345]

Hi folks-

I'm looking at a late 90's Triton bass boat that has been outfitted with a 2003 Evinrude 225hp outboard. The marine dealership selling the boat says it's a 225 HO ETEC, but the cowling says its a 225 FICHT RAM.

I don't know much about these motors, other than what I've read and heard, mostly negative. I wonder if any of you could help support or dispel some of the concerns I have?

- I have heard that the FICHT motors were trouble, but that that is generally concentrated on the years 99 and earlier, and most of these were the smaller motors (under 175hp).

Is this a good rule of thumb?

-  I've heard that after Bombardier bought out OMC in 2001, the quality of the engines was much better after.  True/false?

- A 2003 model would be right about the time ETECs came out, is this true? Maybe this motor has a different cowling for some reason?

- On these motors, I have heard that there are relatively minor fixes or upgrades that can be done that solve the issues that these motors (seem to) have. Is this a correct statement?

Thanks guys, any further info you can give me to help me make an educated decision would be appreciated.

[Wayne P.]

What does the engine data plate state--model, serial #,  etc. ?

[R520dvx]

Okay .... first, the Etec came out in 2005. Next, there were some problems with the Ficht engines back in the late 90's ... 97,98. Mostly with the 150's and 175's. Those problems were long gone before 2003. I currently run a 2004 Ficht engine and love it. There was nothing in the day that would make the power of the HO's.

[senile1]

I currently run a 2000 Ficht 200 HP with all of the recall work done and it runs great but I take care of it.  I don't think the 2003 model was one of the recall years.  I read about some issues with 2000- 2001 models as well but after that I think all the fixes were in place.  On some of the motors the injector flange would crack resulting in leaks and a few motors exploded.  The recall work corrected this issue.  See the quotes below. 

For info regarding the recall, contact Bombardier customer service with the engine serial number at 847-689-7090.

Twenty percent of the '98 and '99 150 and 175 FICHT's without the factory fix, were some of the worst motors OMC built, since the 1964 90hp. The 2000 and later series were the next generation FICHT Ram and they have a better reputation. Proper setup by a QUALIFIED tech is the key.

If it has not been registered before, it carries a 2 year warranty from Bombardier. As was mentioned previously, see if it had the injector hold-down upgrade on it. The easy way to tell is to look at the bolts holding the injector flange to the cylinder head. If they have a 1/2" head, they are the new ones. Bolts with a 3/8" head need to have the kit installed at no charge to you.

Make sure the engine is propped for 5800 to 6000 rpm, feed it the FICHT Ram oil, and run it like you stole it.

[=Matt 5.0=]

. The marine dealership selling the boat says it's a 225 HO ETEC, but the cowling says its a 225 FICHT RAM.

That would give me pause. The dealership doesn't even know what they're selling you?  :-?

[Way2slow]

I wouldn't trust that dealer to sell me a row boat. Sounds like one of the sterotype, used car salesmen. Tell you anything to sell you.

As mentioned, they didn't even make the E-tec during that year model. I don't think you can even put the E-tec powerhead on a Ram mid section without doing some major modifications to the exhaust adapter.

As for the Ficht and Ram DFI motors. The Ficht was the motor that put the final nail in OMC's coffin. There were major problems with the first fichts, V-4s and 60 degree V-6's.

The first 90 degree V-6's (200/225 hp) had a major problem with fuel lines leaking at the injectors and blowing motors/boats up. They came out with a USCG mandated update to fix that problem. That's the only factory recall or update done at the expense of OMC. At the end of 2000, OMC closed the doors and in March 2001 BRP took over. They made wholesale QA improvements to the ficht motor, throwing away about 90% of the inventory that came from OMC. They made some needed improvements to the injectors and some upgrades to the ECM, and changed the name from a Ficht to a Ram. The 2001 model motor was a better motor than the 1999/2000 but it was really about 2003 before they got most of the bugs out of the ECM. I think it was about 2001 when they went to the 3.3 litre motor. I know they were making the blocks in 2000 because I got one BRP tossed. There have been approx 50 upgrades since the 1999 ECM. However, to get these updates, you have to buy a new ECM or pay approx $1,000 to somebody like DFI to have them performed

The Etec is the latest version of the ficht/Ram. It's still basically the same motor, they just did improvements on the injectors, and used a different piston and combustion chamber design so it can run a lot hotter EGT's to make it burn cleaner.

Having a motor that has all the updates just means it has had to USCG mandated recall update. That's the only one.

[Mike 12345]

Thanks for all the resposes guys, you've all helped me quite a bit.  I really appreciate it-

[David Shrpe]

I bought a 2000 fight ram 225 a few months ago. it runs pretty good. I just found this about the injector bolts. Mine has the 3/8 in bolts Im calling someone tomorrow! I also have a oil sheen around motor while motor is running and when I put it on trailer and lower to drain water, oil or fuel one comes out the two exhaust holes next to waterpee hole. I also have raw oil in air intake.

[Way2slow]

Wow, you sure pulled this post out of the grave.

Oil in the intake.  The oil and gas are mixed internally on the Ficht engine, so any oil you see in the intake is strictly from the blow back through the throttle bodies.  All reed valve two strokes have a small amount of blow back, that's why they run a small siphon hose in the bottom of the intake cover to pull it back into the engine, so you might want to look and make sure yours has not come off.  If you are seeing gas and oil mixed, sound like it has or the gasket around the air silencer is leaking.

There was not a problem with the bolts holding the injectors, the problem with the injectors was the fuel line going into the would leak and catch fire, that was fixed buy the USCG recall/update in 1999.  That was not an issue on later production motors after the USCG mandate.

I would clean the engine good with some type of cleaner like Spray Nine, blow it off and then look for any small leaks of fuel or oil.  Port side and under the throttle body at the lift pump is fuel, starboard side is oil.  It should not be leaving an oil/fuel ring in the water.  Maybe if it has a plug fouled or something but not a proper running engine.

 

[Huron Blue]

On 3/3/2020 at 8:24 AM, Way2slow said:

Wow, you sure pulled this post out of the grave.

Oil in the intake.  The oil and gas are mixed internally on the Ficht engine, so any oil you see in the intake is strictly from the blow back through the throttle bodies.  All reed valve two strokes have a small amount of blow back, that's why they run a small siphon hose in the bottom of the intake cover to pull it back into the engine, so you might want to look and make sure yours has not come off.  If you are seeing gas and oil mixed, sound like it has or the gasket around the air silencer is leaking.

There was not a problem with the bolts holding the injectors, the problem with the injectors was the fuel line going into the would leak and catch fire, that was fixed buy the USCG recall/update in 1999.  That was not an issue on later production motors after the USCG mandate.

I would clean the engine good with some type of cleaner like Spray Nine, blow it off and then look for any small leaks of fuel or oil.  Port side and under the throttle body at the lift pump is fuel, starboard side is oil.  It should not be leaving an oil/fuel ring in the water.  Maybe if it has a plug fouled or something but not a proper running engine.

 

Hey Way2slow... I read this entire thread. I have the updated 2000 200HP Ficht.  You seem to have good knowledge of the Fhict motors and something that I have always wanted to know is this... hoping you know. The oil system has the lift pump. If it quits or you run out of oil etc the alarm will go off. I get that. However what if the actual oil injector / manifold dies?? I don't see any type of sensor that would let the EMM know this so it sure seems like the first time you know it's already too late? Is this the case?? Or... does the injector restrict oil such as if it stopped you would notice a lot of smoke?? I bought mine used with 900 hours. I could tell looking at the history via the software he trolled for fish A LOT!! And I don't think he used the better XD100 oil so it was pretty carboned up. I should have done a de-carb but didn't.. I had a ring stick... break... and score a cylinder. I have since rebuilt the entire engine all new bearing and pistons and a sleeve in the one bad cylinder. Runs like a champ. But it bothers me I have all this invested in this thing and I sure would like to know what would happen if that oil injector failed. I finally found a NIB one for $325 and am going to install it just to ease my worries. But if you had an answer I would really appreciate it!!! Thanks

[BKeith]

To be honest with you, you've asked me one I don't have an answer for.  I've actually never heard of a failure on one.  I'm still running a 99 225 Ficht and have never given it a second thought.  The first thing I did was send my ECU and injectors to DFI Technologies and have them updated to get rid of most of the problems the early ficht's were having.  About 90% of the oil injection failures you hear about are not really the problem.  Most mechanics see it has oil injection and that's the automatic response.  I've seen a hellavalot more ring locator pins come out that oil injection problem.  Even with yours, rather than a ring sticking, I would almost bet it was the ring locator pin.  About mid 95 OMC changed their specs for installing ring the way the locator pin was installed to save a few bucks.  That being coupled with the fact they had them going over a transfer port opening, they were notorious for locator pin backing out, hang the port and destroy the cylinder.  The 3.0 closed deck motors had a water circulation problem that caused #2 cylinder to run about 50 degrees hotter so most of those that blew was because the pin came out on #2 piston, but most got blamed on the oil injection.

[Way2slow]

.Sorry, my desktop computers mother died last week and just getting this new one set up and didn't notice it had logged me in wrong.

[Huron Blue]

6 hours ago, BKeith said:

To be honest with you, you've asked me one I don't have an answer for.  I've actually never heard of a failure on one.  I'm still running a 99 225 Ficht and have never given it a second thought.  The first thing I did was send my ECU and injectors to DFI Technologies and have them updated to get rid of most of the problems the early ficht's were having.  About 90% of the oil injection failures you hear about are not really the problem.  Most mechanics see it has oil injection and that's the automatic response.  I've seen a hellavalot more ring locator pins come out that oil injection problem.  Even with yours, rather than a ring sticking, I would almost bet it was the ring locator pin.  About mid 95 OMC changed their specs for installing ring the way the locator pin was installed to save a few bucks.  That being coupled with the fact they had them going over a transfer port opening, they were notorious for locator pin backing out, hang the port and destroy the cylinder.  The 3.0 closed deck motors had a water circulation problem that caused #2 cylinder to run about 50 degrees hotter so most of those that blew was because the pin came out on #2 piston, but most got blamed on the oil injection.

Sorry I forgot I ask you think before. I've been on several forms asking so far nobody has an answer. But yes the locator pic was gone in that failed cylinder come to think of it!... so I bet your right that might have been it. Although the ring was stuck with carbon in that piston and no others so perhaps one failure led to another. Either way I think your correct the failure wasn't an oil injection problem. Anyway just to serve my own curiosity I now know the top left fuse is the oil injector next spring when I get it fire up on the muffs I'm gonna pull that fuse just for 15 seconds or so and see if in the buzzer goes off. If it doesn't I guess I have my answer. I bet it doesn't.

7 hours ago, BKeith said:

To be honest with you, you've asked me one I don't have an answer for.  I've actually never heard of a failure on one.  I'm still running a 99 225 Ficht and have never given it a second thought.  The first thing I did was send my ECU and injectors to DFI Technologies and have them updated to get rid of most of the problems the early ficht's were having.  About 90% of the oil injection failures you hear about are not really the problem.  Most mechanics see it has oil injection and that's the automatic response.  I've seen a hellavalot more ring locator pins come out that oil injection problem.  Even with yours, rather than a ring sticking, I would almost bet it was the ring locator pin.  About mid 95 OMC changed their specs for installing ring the way the locator pin was installed to save a few bucks.  That being coupled with the fact they had them going over a transfer port opening, they were notorious for locator pin backing out, hang the port and destroy the cylinder.  The 3.0 closed deck motors had a water circulation problem that caused #2 cylinder to run about 50 degrees hotter so most of those that blew was because the pin came out on #2 piston, but most got blamed on the oil injection.

Have you notice with your 225 an idle surging issue?? It's not a problem really just sort of anoying.. it goes up and down a couple hundred rpm like it can't quite figure out what low idle speed to be. Funny thing is I change the plugs [ indexed and all ] and it seemed to be fixed now after the rebuild it's doing it again. I'm wondering if I don't have one or two indexed perfect or something. Also do you use XD100?? Do you do a de-carb if so how and how often? I do a lot of trolling on Lake Huron I thinking maybe twice a season perhaps I should. When I got mine apart and saw all the carbon on the rings and grooves got me thinking I should have. Thanks

[Way2slow]

I almost never troll, I've always run XD50, I haven't changed spark plugs in at least six years but yes I do index them but don't worry about the being dead nuts on.  Just changed the fuel filter the first time in about six years.  The only time I notice any surge in idle is on a cold start.  After a couple of minutes of idling to warm it up, I run it at about 1,500 rpm to warm up, it doesn't do it after that.  My HotFoot cable is a little tight when I first use it, so it will hold it there until I take my foot and pull back on it.  After a a little use, it returns on it's on. 

One thing, I "NEVER" let my motor sit for more than two to three months without running it on the hose or in the tank with fresh gas and a double dose of SeaFoam for about 15-20 minutes at about 2,000 rpm (after a couple of minutes warm up).  Letting one sit for long periods during the winter is a good way to pop a piston the first time you go out with it in the spring.  These motors are tuned right to the max, and it only takes a slightly sluggish injector from the lacquer build up of old gas to give you that very sick feeling you get when you hear that piston pop a few hundred yards from the dock.

I also don't  run old gas, if gas has been in the tank for a couple of months or I know I'm not going to be running it for a few months, I either pump or siphon it out and put it in a vehicle.  I use a 1 gallon jug with 2 ounces of Seafoam in a gallon of gas, and disconnect the primer bulb from the tank and connect a hose and stick it in the jug.  I'll run it until it has used about 1/2. maybe a little more in the jug.

I've been doing this for over 10 years and it has never missed a beat.

 

One little tid bit of info.  That motors needs a good, high cranking amp battery so if your battery has lost some of it's ump over the winter, it might not start.  That motor has to be turning at least 275rpm to develop a good spark and it takes almost full voltage to fire those injectors, they use a lot of current, a so, so battery can pull down to less than 10 volts and the injectors lower than that..  It it's not spinning fast a free, it's probably not going to start.  You  can sit there an crank on it, thinking it's a turning a little slow but fast enough it should start, but it don't  Most like, is not making enough spark or it's not firing the injectors.  I've seen more than one say their battery was good, but wouldn't start.  Put a kickass battery in it and it starts just fine.

[Huron Blue]

1 hour ago, Way2slow said:

I almost never troll, I've always run XD50, I haven't changed spark plugs in at least six years but yes I do index them but don't worry about the being dead nuts on.  Just changed the fuel filter the first time in about six years.  The only time I notice any surge in idle is on a cold start.  After a couple of minutes of idling to warm it up, I run it at about 1,500 rpm to warm up, it doesn't do it after that.  My HotFoot cable is a little tight when I first use it, so it will hold it there until I take my foot and pull back on it.  After a a little use, it returns on it's on. 

One thing, I "NEVER" let my motor sit for more than two to three months without running it on the hose or in the tank with fresh gas and a double dose of SeaFoam for about 15-20 minutes at about 2,000 rpm (after a couple of minutes warm up).  Letting one sit for long periods during the winter is a good way to pop a piston the first time you go out with it in the spring.  These motors are tuned right to the max, and it only takes a slightly sluggish injector from the lacquer build up of old gas to give you that very sick feeling you get when you hear that piston pop a few hundred yards from the dock.

I also don't  run old gas, if gas has been in the tank for a couple of months or I know I'm not going to be running it for a few months, I either pump or siphon it out and put it in a vehicle.  I use a 1 gallon jug with 2 ounces of Seafoam in a gallon of gas, and disconnect the primer bulb from the tank and connect a hose and stick it in the jug.  I'll run it until it has used about 1/2. maybe a little more in the jug.

I've been doing this for over 10 years and it has never missed a beat.

 

One little tid bit of info.  That motors needs a good, high cranking amp battery so if your battery has lost some of it's ump over the winter, it might not start.  That motor has to be turning at least 275rpm to develop a good spark and it takes almost full voltage to fire those injectors, they use a lot of current, a so, so battery can pull down to less than 10 volts and the injectors lower than that..  It it's not spinning fast a free, it's probably not going to start.  You  can sit there an crank on it, thinking it's a turning a little slow but fast enough it should start, but it don't  Most like, is not making enough spark or it's not firing the injectors.  I've seen more than one say their battery was good, but wouldn't start.  Put a kickass battery in it and it starts just fine.

Wow 6 years on plugs!! I went 3 when it started running rough and no wonder they were wasted !!! center electrode was nothing but a pin and the gap was twice what it should be or more. aka way over due. Maybe my 2000 has a hotter spark who knows. I've heard some guys say they change them twice a season. That seems crazy but no way could mine go 6 years.    I have a 75 gallon tank which gets filled completely full before the boat goes in storage semi inside storage. I'm in Michigan so the few months it sits it's cold which doesn't make gas go nasty like sitting in heat. Been doing that 25 years never an issue with bad gas. I agree on the batteries I have two big marine batteries on a switch which gets turned off whenever the boat isn't in use. Boat can sit all winter and will fire right up. Kinda wonder then if my iffy idle might be a semi dirty injector. Maybe I should run my tank down to 1/8 tank or so then throw in some injector cleaner?? You mentioned you sent your ECU and injectors out for service what exactly did they do? Calibrate more accurate than stock?? You mentioned they had issues that led to engine failure?? what like too lean??  Thanks BTW

2 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I almost never troll, I've always run XD50, I haven't changed spark plugs in at least six years but yes I do index them but don't worry about the being dead nuts on.  Just changed the fuel filter the first time in about six years.  The only time I notice any surge in idle is on a cold start.  After a couple of minutes of idling to warm it up, I run it at about 1,500 rpm to warm up, it doesn't do it after that.  My HotFoot cable is a little tight when I first use it, so it will hold it there until I take my foot and pull back on it.  After a a little use, it returns on it's on. 

One thing, I "NEVER" let my motor sit for more than two to three months without running it on the hose or in the tank with fresh gas and a double dose of SeaFoam for about 15-20 minutes at about 2,000 rpm (after a couple of minutes warm up).  Letting one sit for long periods during the winter is a good way to pop a piston the first time you go out with it in the spring.  These motors are tuned right to the max, and it only takes a slightly sluggish injector from the lacquer build up of old gas to give you that very sick feeling you get when you hear that piston pop a few hundred yards from the dock.

I also don't  run old gas, if gas has been in the tank for a couple of months or I know I'm not going to be running it for a few months, I either pump or siphon it out and put it in a vehicle.  I use a 1 gallon jug with 2 ounces of Seafoam in a gallon of gas, and disconnect the primer bulb from the tank and connect a hose and stick it in the jug.  I'll run it until it has used about 1/2. maybe a little more in the jug.

I've been doing this for over 10 years and it has never missed a beat.

 

One little tid bit of info.  That motors needs a good, high cranking amp battery so if your battery has lost some of it's ump over the winter, it might not start.  That motor has to be turning at least 275rpm to develop a good spark and it takes almost full voltage to fire those injectors, they use a lot of current, a so, so battery can pull down to less than 10 volts and the injectors lower than that..  It it's not spinning fast a free, it's probably not going to start.  You  can sit there an crank on it, thinking it's a turning a little slow but fast enough it should start, but it don't  Most like, is not making enough spark or it's not firing the injectors.  I've seen more than one say their battery was good, but wouldn't start.  Put a kickass battery in it and it starts just fine.

 

[Way2slow]

Yep, that tale tale grove is when the pin was working out and rubbing.  They start with a little polished line there, then as it wears, it gets deeper and deeper until if finally hangs the lip of the port.  That plug out of the piston is where it ripped it out when if finally hung the port.  I'm actually surprised it didn't do a whole lot more damage.

Then injectors they take them apart, clean and inspect them everything, replace any out of tolerance parts and calibrate them.  

The ECU has about 50 or so updates they do on the early ones.  Basically redesigned and upgrade parts that had a history of being prone to fail.  When I had mine done it was $1,100 to do all six injectors and the ECU.  That was about 10 years ago when I first bought the boat at auction with all the injectors and and a bunch other motor parts in one of the bins in the boat .  The ECU had all the drivers for the injectors shorted where it looked like someone didn't know the housing actually has battery voltage on it and they must have grounded it out.  The injectors have to be calibrated to the ECU and are number for which cylinder they go in.  They send the program and six calibration disk so when you install them you have to load the disk for each cylinder in the ECU.  You can not swap the injectors around and you can not use an injector from another motor without sending it out to be calibrated and have calibration disk and software to load it in the ECU.

The nice part about it was I bought a boat that was worth about $15,000 at the time for $5,000 and only spent $1,100 fixing it, so I was not complaining.  

Yes, I decarb about every 50 hours.  

The reason my plugs are 6 years old is my dad died about six years ago and he was the main reason I was going fishing every other weekend to take him.  Since he died the boat probably hasn't had 50 hours on it.  That's why I selling it next spring.  I doubt the motor has much more than 300 hours on it now. When I go it, it only had 115 hours.

[Way2slow]

I will also give you another little tidbit.  When I rebuild one, I almost never replace the bearings unless they show signs of blue from heat or pit marks in them.  They will wear out a motor many times before they go bad.   If the piston pins have the loose bearings, I swap those out for caged bearing and I replace the bottom main (roller bearing) every time I take one down, it's cheap and not worth the risk of a failure. If the bottom main fails, it will let the crankshaft move up and down in the block and destroy block and everything in it.  I also mic the sealing rings around the crank and replace those when they have .010" or more wear.

If one piston has a locator pin that has worked out any, I replace all six pistons, don't matter if they only had a few hours on them.  I have seen the back out with less than 100 hours on them.

[Huron Blue]

8 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I will also give you another little tidbit.  When I rebuild one, I almost never replace the bearings unless they show signs of blue from heat or pit marks in them.  They will wear out a motor many times before they go bad.   If the piston pins have the loose bearings, I swap those out for caged bearing and I replace the bottom main (roller bearing) every time I take one down, it's cheap and not worth the risk of a failure. If the bottom main fails, it will let the crankshaft move up and down in the block and destroy block and everything in it.  I also mic the sealing rings around the crank and replace those when they have .010" or more wear.

If one piston has a locator pin that has worked out any, I replace all six pistons, don't matter if they only had a few hours on them.  I have seen the back out with less than 100 hours on them.

Okay that makes sense why you sent the ECU and injectors out for calibration. Mine are stock so I'm good there. I got a great deal on my 200 mostly because of the bad rap these motors had most people not knowing after Bombardier took over those problems were fixed. I could tell by the 1/2" injector bolt heads and stickers  on the motor it was the upgraded version.  When I rebuilt mine I bought the entire rebuild kit all 6 cylinders and and new bearings. The bearings all seemed fine but I changed all of them. I had a hell of a time getting out the lower but I won eventually. Put the new one in after putting the housing in the freezer.... new one dropped right in. I was also VERY careful to get the rod caps on the same way they came off. So I think I have a very good motor now that will last me years.  

[Way2slow]

I have an alignment tool for installing rods bearing caps, makes it a lot easier.  You can do them without the tool and I've done a bunch without it as long as you are easy and careful about it.  If you torque one down and find it's off a little, most of the time you can not get it to line back up right after that an have to replace the rod.   Sometimes you can put the tool on it a get it back but some will still push over out of alignment.

Where it's real fun is when you are only doing one cylinder and not breaking the whole motor down.  You can do one cylinder by pulling that head and the intake off and go through the intake side of the block to take the rod cap off and put it back on.  Putting it back on is when you definitely don't want to rush things, checking and double checking with a sharp scribe to make sure it's aligned as you tighten it a little at the time.

[Huron Blue]

21 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I have an alignment tool for installing rods bearing caps, makes it a lot easier.  You can do them without the tool and I've done a bunch without it as long as you are easy and careful about it.  If you torque one down and find it's off a little, most of the time you can not get it to line back up right after that an have to replace the rod.   Sometimes you can put the tool on it a get it back but some will still push over out of alignment.

Where it's real fun is when you are only doing one cylinder and not breaking the whole motor down.  You can do one cylinder by pulling that head and the intake off and go through the intake side of the block to take the rod cap off and put it back on.  Putting it back on is when you definitely don't want to rush things, checking and double checking with a sharp scribe to make sure it's aligned as you tighten it a little at the time.

wow never heard of that alignment tool.. You are right about taking your time on that!! A couple of them I could still feel the edge so I wiggled them around a bit and bingo. I have a feeling if I didn't get that right I'd have a failure. OUCH!!! I only got the engine on the water for about 15 minutes weather turned to crap then after that next thing you know it's fall so it's waiting for spring now. I bought a NIB oil injector. Gonna pull that fuse like I mentioned and see if it triggers an alarm. Should have tried this before I blew $325 on the thing! But I don't want to have any doubts!  Next question... ha  .. I replaced the water pump. I swear it's not as good of a tell tale stream as I would expect. Is there a rubber grommet between the long pipe from the drive that goes up to the center section? I sort of forget .. as I recall my new pump came with several different parts for different applications perhaps I didn't get it right. I'm pulling the drive in the spring gonna do both shaft seals I saw a tiny bit of milky fluid when I drained in in the fall.

22 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I have an alignment tool for installing rods bearing caps, makes it a lot easier.  You can do them without the tool and I've done a bunch without it as long as you are easy and careful about it.  If you torque one down and find it's off a little, most of the time you can not get it to line back up right after that an have to replace the rod.   Sometimes you can put the tool on it a get it back but some will still push over out of alignment.

Where it's real fun is when you are only doing one cylinder and not breaking the whole motor down.  You can do one cylinder by pulling that head and the intake off and go through the intake side of the block to take the rod cap off and put it back on.  Putting it back on is when you definitely don't want to rush things, checking and double checking with a sharp scribe to make sure it's aligned as you tighten it a little at the time.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dja4FUjGhQC25zNVE2q_1BlHBwEdk4Ij/view?usp=sharing

22 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I have an alignment tool for installing rods bearing caps, makes it a lot easier.  You can do them without the tool and I've done a bunch without it as long as you are easy and careful about it.  If you torque one down and find it's off a little, most of the time you can not get it to line back up right after that an have to replace the rod.   Sometimes you can put the tool on it a get it back but some will still push over out of alignment.

Where it's real fun is when you are only doing one cylinder and not breaking the whole motor down.  You can do one cylinder by pulling that head and the intake off and go through the intake side of the block to take the rod cap off and put it back on.  Putting it back on is when you definitely don't want to rush things, checking and double checking with a sharp scribe to make sure it's aligned as you tighten it a little at the time.

you can hear it going up and down in RPM at idle. Irritating. Guess I should clean the injectors maybe.

[Way2slow]

I doubt you would want to buy a rod cap tool for one or even two motors.  https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/958.cfm

No outboard is tuned to idle out of the water.  They have to have the back pressure on the exhaust.  Mine does that when I first start it, especially on the hose, but after I warm it up it idles fine.  If it does it after running it in the lake, it might have a linc and sinc issue.

 

You mentioned you only had about 15 minutes on it.  With new pistons and rings on a bored cylinder, I let one idle a minimum of about 45 minutes before I increase the rpm an.  For the first hour on the water, I don't take one above 3,000 rpm.  I go up about 500 rpm each hour after that but never holding it for more than few minutes at the time and then back down the 500 for several minutes and then back up, like a yoyo.   Once it get it to 5,000, I wait until I have about eight hours before I go WOT, and then is back to the yoyo deal after two or three minutes at WOT until I get about 10 hours.  I just have this thing against looking in the bore of one and seeing scratch and rub marks on a new bore after it has few hours on it.

 

A little trick I use to look in a cylinder is one of those small instrument panel lights and a piece of that really small two conductor wire like on some of these small power supplies, the smaller the better, soldered to each of the wire leads on the bulb with a little heat shrink on them to prevent shorting.  Clip the other end to a 12V source and ground and stick it in the plug hole.  It lights the cylinder up like day light in there and you can see it just fine.  That's how I check the burn pattern on top of the piston when tuning and after porting to see how my port angles are working.  The factories totally suck.

REMEMBER, that aluminum ecu housing is not a ground.

 

 

 

[Huron Blue]

On 2/12/2021 at 10:46 PM, Way2slow said:

I doubt you would want to buy a rod cap tool for one or even two motors.  https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/958.cfm

No outboard is tuned to idle out of the water.  They have to have the back pressure on the exhaust.  Mine does that when I first start it, especially on the hose, but after I warm it up it idles fine.  If it does it after running it in the lake, it might have a linc and sinc issue.

 

You mentioned you only had about 15 minutes on it.  With new pistons and rings on a bored cylinder, I let one idle a minimum of about 45 minutes before I increase the rpm an.  For the first hour on the water, I don't take one above 3,000 rpm.  I go up about 500 rpm each hour after that but never holding it for more than few minutes at the time and then back down the 500 for several minutes and then back up, like a yoyo.   Once it get it to 5,000, I wait until I have about eight hours before I go WOT, and then is back to the yoyo deal after two or three minutes at WOT until I get about 10 hours.  I just have this thing against looking in the bore of one and seeing scratch and rub marks on a new bore after it has few hours on it.

 

A little trick I use to look in a cylinder is one of those small instrument panel lights and a piece of that really small two conductor wire like on some of these small power supplies, the smaller the better, soldered to each of the wire leads on the bulb with a little heat shrink on them to prevent shorting.  Clip the other end to a 12V source and ground and stick it in the plug hole.  It lights the cylinder up like day light in there and you can see it just fine.  That's how I check the burn pattern on top of the piston when tuning and after porting to see how my port angles are working.  The factories totally suck.

REMEMBER, that aluminum ecu housing is not a ground.

 

 

 

Great info thanks.. I have a tiny camera fits in the spark plug hole but it's kinda hard to see what your seeing. A little light would be perfect. what's a linc and sinc issue?? Mine does the wandering idle even in the water. It has the feel and sound of one cylinder cutting in and out. Might have to try and hook it to the software I think there's a test to shut off one cylinder at a time.

[Way2slow]

Linkage and throttle body synchronization.  Making sure all the throttle bodies are fully closing and opening at exactly the same time and the timing marks on all the linkage points are lined up.  Also, make sure that post sticking up on the linkage cam has not lost it's outer shell.  If it's black and about 1/4" in diameter, it's bad, if it's about 3/8" and has clear shell it's good.

If you have the Diagnostic Software, it should give you any fault codes and lets you some some trouble shooting.

If you have never done it, you will need the help of a manual, or someone that' know how.

[Huron Blue]

On 2/14/2021 at 4:39 PM, Way2slow said:

Linkage and throttle body synchronization.  Making sure all the throttle bodies are fully closing and opening at exactly the same time and the timing marks on all the linkage points are lined up.  Also, make sure that post sticking up on the linkage cam has not lost it's outer shell.  If it's black and about 1/4" in diameter, it's bad, if it's about 3/8" and has clear shell it's good.

If you have the Diagnostic Software, it should give you any fault codes and lets you some some trouble shooting.

If you have never done it, you will need the help of a manual, or someone that' know how.

Are you referring to this? I noticed a year or so ago a space between it and the throttle linkage. I slipped over a pc of rubber so there was no 'play'.

[Way2slow]

Yes, and you can't do that!  If you look on top of that cam that pushing against the post you have that crap on, you will see a small arrow.   That roller/post is supposed to make contact with that cam precisely at that arrow as the throttle advances, but there are some points that must align also, all at the same time.