Waxing Cork Handles

[Yuddzy]

I have a new rod with cork handles. After seeing some rods with crumbled and/or dirty cork grips, I'm wondering about preserving the handles on mine. I imagine leaving them bare causes breakdown, discoloration, or fish scent to "stain" the cork. (Especially pike slime)

 

U40 seems very popular. There is not much on the forum about waxing cork handles and I'm curious about this as an alternative. 

[Jig Man]

The first thing I do is cover them with shrink tubing from the Mud Hole.  Then I don’t have anything to worry about.

[MN Fisher]

A few other forums have info on using wax to seal cork.

 

Most still prefer U-40 - it's what I use - but a wax with a good percentage of Carnuba in it was also highly rated. Johnson's and Minwax paste wax were both recommended.

http://classicflyrodforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40443

[bulldog1935]

I have a 10,000+mi bicycle with cork grips.  That includes gripping with sweaty leather gloves. 

I used 7 coats of spar varnish, which is thin, permeates, breathes, and remains flexible. 

Make sure you don't use shellac, which will flake. 

I would definitely go the U-40 route over wax. 

[casts_by_fly]

U40 is by far the easiest for sealing cork, if you like the feel of sealed cork.  I do not.  If you have half decent cork that isn't a bunch of filled pits it will not wear to much at all.  I have 40 year old rods with original cork that are still in good shape.  If 'dirty' bothers you, then some dish soap on a rag once a year takes the heaviest off.  A magic eraser will take off marks.  If it gets really bad, some 400 grit sand paper and a light hand will bring it almost back to new.

[Yuddzy]

15 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

I have a 10,000+mi bicycle with cork grips.  That includes gripping with sweaty leather gloves. 

I used 7 coats of spar varnish, which is thin, permeates, breathes, and remains flexible. 

Make sure you don't use shellac, which will flake. 

I would definitely go the U-40 route over wax. 

Interesting. I suppose U-40 would be pretty similar to a spar varnish? By the way, the 4600C3 that you walked me through doing a total clean/service on is working great. Still getting familiar with the reel, caught 6 Northern on it a couple days ago amidst the cottonwood fluff covering the lake. It's a real winch. 

9 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

U40 is by far the easiest for sealing cork, if you like the feel of sealed cork.  I do not.  If you have half decent cork that isn't a bunch of filled pits it will not wear to much at all.  I have 40 year old rods with original cork that are still in good shape.  If 'dirty' bothers you, then some dish soap on a rag once a year takes the heaviest off.  A magic eraser will take off marks.  If it gets really bad, some 400 grit sand paper and a light hand will bring it almost back to new.

Cork must be more durable than I figured. Do you find your cork takes on fishy scents over time or not much at all? 

[a1712]

23 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

I have a 10,000+mi bicycle with cork grips.  That includes gripping with sweaty leather gloves. 

I used 7 coats of spar varnish, which is thin, permeates, breathes, and remains flexible. 

Make sure you don't use shellac, which will flake. 

I would definitely go the U-40 route over wax. 

I've used Marine Spar Urethane for years. Can easily be sanded down to smooth and reapply. Doesn't get slick when wet either. Brian.

[casts_by_fly]

9 minutes ago, Yuddzy said:

Interesting. I suppose U-40 would be pretty similar to a spar varnish? By the way, the 4600C3 that you walked me through doing a total clean/service on is working great. Still getting familiar with the reel, caught 6 Northern on it a couple days ago amidst the cottonwood fluff covering the lake. It's a real winch. 

Cork must be more durable than I figured. Do you find your cork takes on fishy scents over time or not much at all? 

 

Scent?  no.  Cork isn't really porous, its more like a closed cell foam.  You get stains but they wear away.  The two pictures are both well  used casting rods.  One is 1 year of hefty use.  One is 30 years old and well used for the first 20.  Not a whole lot of difference between them for wear and both could be cleaned up pretty easily.

 

 

[bulldog1935]

@a1712 after initial cure and long-term use, if you want to apply new coats, rather than sanding, use a light rub with 000 steel wool. 

[swhit140]

I've been using U40 for years and it is a good product at a low cost. It is simple to apply and it works.

Just make sure you don't accidentally leave the bottle in your cold/frozen garage in the winter. Don't ask how I know... 

[Deleted account]

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

I have a 10,000+mi bicycle with cork grips.  That includes gripping with sweaty leather gloves. 

I used 7 coats of spar varnish, which is thin, permeates, breathes, and remains flexible. 

Make sure you don't use shellac, which will flake. 

I would definitely go the U-40 route over wax. 

Ok, now this explains a lot, I want to see the picture of you riding down the path holding the grips with just your thumbs and index fingers, holding your pinkies up like you were drinking tea (which I know is in the vintage wicker picnic basket attached to the rack with the matching panniers)...  

Do you wear Red Baron goggles when you ride?

[bulldog1935]

no, but I carry fishing poles, bag, wading boots, lunch

 

 

my friend is a retired Special Ops command general - he brings home elk on his e-bike. 

He built his bike, too. 

@Deleted account the only thing you ever explain is yourself. 

[a1712]

3 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

@a1712 after initial cure and long-term use, if you want to apply new coats, rather than sanding, use a light rub with 000 steel wool. 

3M Ultra Fine Scotchbrite pad. Brian.

[padlin]

I clean them over the winter with a magic eraser, thought about the U-40, but for me the eraser is enough.

[The Bassman]

I'm a painter by trade and have found that denatured alchohol and a clean rag works great.