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Posted

Wondering what length you guys are running on your bow mount trolling motors. I have a casting deck on a 14' jon and looking at a foot operated bow mount. Was looking at 36" but I found a good price on a 45". Wondering if it will be too long and get in my way while fishing.

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Posted

Most of them are easy to cut down if needed.  I'd go with the 45".  You don't have to lower it all the way.  If it sticks up too high....gets in the way they you can shorten it some.   

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  • Super User
Posted
3 minutes ago, Scott F said:

Use this chart from Minn Kota to determine shaft length

I couldn't get the F-9 in the water before ordering my TM - but I did find a faint waterline mark on the hull...so used that as my base...then checked the chart.

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Posted

Same thing happened to me a few years ago.  I went with the 45" Terrova.  It's fine on my 1542 Jon boat.   No issues.

 

I use the remote though and not the foot pedal.

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Posted

I have an old 14’ Alumacraft with a casting deck that I built. I have 45” shaft and there’s not a day goes by that I don’t wish I had a 36” shaft. I fish a fair amount of shallow water and need the prop to sit pretty high in the water.

Like you, I had the chance for a good deal, and like a dummie I bought the 45” shaft. If you can’t get a 36” shaft on a Minn Kota I’d look at Motor Guide. If I had to do it over again I’d have skipped the bargain and paid whwtever I had to for a 36” Just this morning I was debating selling my 45” shaft and buying a 36”. Not going to happen - I just have to wait until this one gives out.

If I had a nickel for every time I’ve hit the trolling motor on a cast……..

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  • Super User
Posted
12 minutes ago, NavyToad said:

I have an old 14’ Alumacraft with a casting deck that I built. I have 45” shaft and there’s not a day goes by that I don’t wish I had a 36” shaft. I fish a fair amount of shallow water and need the prop to sit pretty high in the water.

Like you, I had the chance for a good deal, and like a dummie I bought the 45” shaft. If you can’t get a 36” shaft on a Minn Kota I’d look at Motor Guide. If I had to do it over again I’d have skipped the bargain and paid whwtever I had to for a 36” Just this morning I was debating selling my 45” shaft and buying a 36”. Not going to happen - I just have to wait until this one gives out.

If I had a nickel for every time I’ve hit the trolling motor on a cast……..

Well that's something that may be worth considering......that nickel. Lol

I like a soft landing side/under cast and even with a 36" shaft, sometimes hit.

Good Post.

  • Like 2
Posted

I'm in Southern NJ where many of the waters are shallow and have max depth of 8-12ft. Being able to raise the prop up in certain situations is something I need for where I fish. Just wanting something that is adequate for getting me around on lakes 150 acres or less. I already have two group 29 deep cycle batteries I'll be using wether I go 12v or 24v.

 

13 hours ago, NavyToad said:

I have an old 14’ Alumacraft with a casting deck that I built. I have 45” shaft and there’s not a day goes by that I don’t wish I had a 36” shaft. I fish a fair amount of shallow water and need the prop to sit pretty high in the water.

 

This a my biggest concern with the longer shaft length. The reason I considered the 45" is because the price was good and that particular motor is variable speed which is a plus. The 36" models I've looked at from MK & MG are all 12v, 45-55lb and 5 speed. I don't know if I'd get the run time I'd need off the two batteries wired parallel.

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  • Super User
Posted

As noted, cutting down the shaft is easy.  So I say, go with the longer, and you can always cut it down.  Go with one too short, and there's not really a good way around that.  

 

If you do need to cut it down, just be sure to mount the trolling motor upside down to a table or something.  That way, all of the dust falls out, away from the motor.  It shouldn't be a big deal if a little bit gets in there, but it certainly won't help it.  There are some YouTube videos that walk you through the process.  It shouldn't take you more than an hour, and that's including the time it takes to constantly recheck your video reference and dig out all of your tools.  It's a 5 minute job if you know what you're doing.  

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Posted
46 minutes ago, Bankc said:

As noted, cutting down the shaft is easy.  So I say, go with the longer, and you can always cut it down.  Go with one too short, and there's not really a good way around that.  

 

If you do need to cut it down, just be sure to mount the trolling motor upside down to a table or something.  That way, all of the dust falls out, away from the motor.  It shouldn't be a big deal if a little bit gets in there, but it certainly won't help it.  There are some YouTube videos that walk you through the process.  It shouldn't take you more than an hour, and that's including the time it takes to constantly recheck your video reference and dig out all of your tools.  It's a 5 minute job if you know what you're doing.  

I had no idea that I could shorten the shaft! I looked it up on YT and thanks to you I should have a shorter shaft by tomorrow. The answer to my prayer. I can’t thank you enough.

Posted
1 hour ago, Bankc said:

As noted, cutting down the shaft is easy.  So I say, go with the longer, and you can always cut it down.  Go with one too short, and there's not really a good way around that.  

 

If you do need to cut it down, just be sure to mount the trolling motor upside down to a table or something.  That way, all of the dust falls out, away from the motor.  It shouldn't be a big deal if a little bit gets in there, but it certainly won't help it.  There are some YouTube videos that walk you through the process.  It shouldn't take you more than an hour, and that's including the time it takes to constantly recheck your video reference and dig out all of your tools.  It's a 5 minute job if you know what you're doing.  

 

The videos I've seen have been of them cutting the top of the shaft on a 1 piece shaft. What about trolling motors with a two piece shaft where the upper portion that locks in the collar are larger diameter than the bottom half? It looks like if I cut the shaft on a 2 piece like the MG X3 or a MK Maxxum it would solve the casting problem but without shortening the bottom I'd still be limited to how much I could raise the prop in shallow water situations. Am I thinking right or is this not an issue I would run into with a 2 piece shaft?

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, NJBasstard said:

 

The videos I've seen have been of them cutting the top of the shaft on a 1 piece shaft. What about trolling motors with a two piece shaft where the upper portion that locks in the collar are larger diameter than the bottom half? It looks like if I cut the shaft on a 2 piece like the MG X3 or a MK Maxxum it would solve the casting problem but without shortening the bottom I'd still be limited to how much I could raise the prop in shallow water situations. Am I thinking right or is this not an issue I would run into with a 2 piece shaft?

I just finished playing around with my Minn Kota “Edge” model which has the 2 piece shaft. I ended up putting it all back together and sayin’ to heck with it. The top section of the shaft has a spline/gear/pulley that is driven by the cables from the foot control. My conclusion is that the “easiest” way to shorten it would be to pull the shaft out of the motor housing (using a torch to break up the sealant and I think it might be pinned), cut it, and rethread the end that screws into the motor housing and reseal it.

One benefit is that after reassembling the pulley/cable system 3 times, my foot control position is better/more comfortable now than it was from the factory and I can now rebuild the cable/pulley system if necessary. LOL!

The YT videos for shortening a one piece shaft would have been a piece of cake. I’m just going to have to wait ‘til my current motor dies and get a 36” or possibly shorter motor. 

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  • Super User
Posted

36" shaft.

I recently installed a new TM on my Lowe 1436 jon.  I only wanted a 12V TM because I don't use it a lot and didn't want the weight of two batteries in the rear, especially since I sometimes run a 25hp Merc on it.  Motor Guide only offers the X3 in 45lb and 55lb in the 12V.  Motor I preferred getting the 55lb digital, but the 45lb non digital was the only motor available at the time in the 36" shaft.  Even though I really preferred the 55 digitals, I bought the 45 non digital just to get the 36" shaft.  With over 50 year's experience, if there's one thing I've learned, too long of a shaft totally sucks.  

Don't think cutting the shaft is a quick, easy solution.  It is on some but not all.  I've cut my fair share of them, the older ones usually were easy.  Some of the newer one, not so easy and you can kiss any warranty it might have good by.

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  • Super User
Posted

Sorry.  I've never messed with a two-piece shaft.  I'm sure it's still possible, but obviously a bit more involved.  You'd have to cut it from the bottom and removing the shaft from the motor housing doesn't look easy.  Plus, you'd have to put new threads on the shaft after you cut it.  You might be able to avoid that, however, if you can get a 36" replacement shaft from Minn Kota.    

 

Technology, right?  Whenever they "improve" something, they make it harder to work on, don't they?  

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Posted
1 hour ago, Bankc said:

Sorry.  I've never messed with a two-piece shaft.  I'm sure it's still possible, but obviously a bit more involved.  You'd have to cut it from the bottom and removing the shaft from the motor housing doesn't look easy.  Plus, you'd have to put new threads on the shaft after you cut it.  You might be able to avoid that, however, if you can get a 36" replacement shaft from Minn Kota.    

 

Technology, right?  Whenever they "improve" something, they make it harder to work on, don't they?  

Hey, it sounded good on YouTube. I did end up with a more ergonomically comfortable foot control. Just because I used the term “ergonomically comfortable”, don’t mistake me for one of those fruitbag commies.

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  • Super User
Posted

Totally opposite of y'all 

 

I run the longest shaft I can get & simply adjust up for shallow water & down for deepwater.

 

I'm running a 1652 Alweld with welded in floors, sides, & a tunnel hull. I'm have a 55# 45" shaft Minn Kota Riptide.

 

I have no issues ?

 

 

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  • Super User
Posted

I run 45" Terrovas on my 1436 & 1448 jons. I fish in wind/waves often and when the props out of the water it no good.

6 hours ago, Way2slow said:

36" shaft.

I recently installed a new TM on my Lowe 1436 jon.  I only wanted a 12V TM because I don't use it a lot and didn't want the weight of two batteries in the rear, especially since I sometimes run a 25hp Merc on it.  Motor Guide only offers the X3 in 45lb and 55lb in the 12V.  Motor I preferred getting the 55lb digital, but the 45lb non digital was the only motor available at the time in the 36" shaft.  Even though I really preferred the 55 digitals, I bought the 45 non digital just to get the 36" shaft.  With over 50 year's experience, if there's one thing I've learned, too long of a shaft totally sucks.  

Don't think cutting the shaft is a quick, easy solution.  It is on some but not all.  I've cut my fair share of them, the older ones usually were easy.  Some of the newer one, not so easy and you can kiss any warranty it might have good by.

25 hp on a 1436 ? I bet it ain't Way2slow

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  • Super User
Posted

Everything is Way2slow. About 32mph on the jon.  Even my 20' Javelin I sold that would run 82 with a full load and two people.  I'm like Tim Allen, "More Power", ain't no such thing as too much power or too fast.  I've never had a stock motor in my personal vehicle (in the wife's, but not mine) and not many of my boats.

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Posted
On 6/8/2022 at 9:23 AM, Way2slow said:

36" shaft.

I recently installed a new TM on my Lowe 1436 jon.  I only wanted a 12V TM because I don't use it a lot and didn't want the weight of two batteries in the rear, especially since I sometimes run a 25hp Merc on it.  Motor Guide only offers the X3 in 45lb and 55lb in the 12V.  Motor I preferred getting the 55lb digital, but the 45lb non digital was the only motor available at the time in the 36" shaft.  Even though I really preferred the 55 digitals, I bought the 45 non digital just to get the 36" shaft.  With over 50 year's experience, if there's one thing I've learned, too long of a shaft totally sucks.  

Don't think cutting the shaft is a quick, easy solution.  It is on some but not all.  I've cut my fair share of them, the older ones usually were easy.  Some of the newer one, not so easy and you can kiss any warranty it might have good by.

 

The jon I have is a 1442 I think but I also have a 25hp 2 stroke Mariner. Moves the boat good in the nearby creeks I fish. What is your battery setup on the X3 and how does it do on your setup? Ive looked at the Edge and X3 in 45lb/36" but as I said in an earlier post I am concerned with battery life. The electric only lakes I'd like to go in are normally pretty calm and between 100-150 acres. Trying to avoid paddling across the lake to get back to the ramp.

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Posted

Responded to the wrong 

Sorry 

:smiley:

A-Jay

 

  • Super User
Posted

Before 24VDC TM’s we ran 2 6VDC gulf cart batteries in series and ran them over a weekend of fishing. 

Trojan made the 6V deep cycle golf cart  batteries and came out with 225 series group 31 12V DC deep cycle take replaced the 6V’s.  The Trojan 225 is still a good wet cell battery that can run your 12V TM 2 days.

I changed to AGM’s and would never look back, trouble free zero maintenance.

Tom

  • Super User
Posted

I just installed mine a couple of months ago and have only used it a couple of times.  I'm just running one group 27 AGM I take out of my pontoon boat as needed.  I used it twice trolling at 1-mph for several hours crappie fishing and had very minor battery drain.  If I had to depend on it running for several hours, even at modest speeds on an electric only lake, I would have stuck with the 60-pound thrust 24 volt digital motor I had on it.  I didn't need that much motor and battery for my type of fishing, is the reason I went with just one battery.  Even running a 12v TM with two batteries in parallel, you are still loosing a lot because a 24V TM is 25% more efficient than a 12V, plus the digital motor will give a huge increase in run time at low to moderate speed settings.

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