stake-out pole, drift sock, anchor and/or trolley for a canoe?

[07Rapala]

I'm setting up a solo pack boat (canoe which paddles like a kayak) for fishing, and trying to work out how to control my position. 

 

I made a DIY stake-out pole, and I have to say I'm disappointed. It only seems to hold in really light wind, less than 5mph, may hold a little faster but definitely would not hold over 10mph. Its also an awkward 8' long stick in my tiny 12' boat. Utility seems limited and storage/use seem clumsy, am I missing something here?

 

A drift sock seems very appealing, how larger should it be and where is the best place to get one?

 

Since the stake-out pole didn't work well, I am leaning towards getting a small anchor. I am wondering if I can install an anchor trolley. My canoe is a pretty light 'kevlar' boat, so I don't feel comfortable perforating the side of it. I was thinking of mounting two shorter ones on the gunwales nearer the bow and stern, leaving the sides where I paddle open. Am I going to be able to mount one on the top of my gunwales, and is this a good idea?

 

If I don't do an anchor trolly, what is the best way to connect a drift sock and anchor to my canoe?

Obligatory boat photo!

[Bankc]

That's what stakeout poles do.  If the ground is kind of soft, you have to push them in really, really deep or they won't hold.  If it's too soft, like loose sand, they'll still fall over anyway no matter how hard you push them down.  If the ground is too hard, they won't work at all, because you won't be able to get it deep enough to get enough bite.  I have the exact same stakeout pole, by the way.  It works for me, but as you've noticed, it's fairly limited in what you can do with it.  Sometimes I'll have it buried 4ft into the ground, making it only useful in 3ft of water or less.  Mine will hold in stronger winds (I've used mine in 30mph winds before), if the bottom composition allows for it.  I only use it for a few lakes, as most of the lakes are either too deep everywhere, or don't have a good bottom composition for it.  I use a folding anchor more than anything else.  It takes up less space and is far more versatile.  

 

As for an anchor trolley, I don't know what to tell you there.  You might try installing some type of cleat at the bow and stern.  Usually, when you use an anchor trolley, you want to run it up to the end of the boat.  However, you'll want to make sure you can access the far ends of the canoe to get to the cleat without tipping the canoe over in roughish water.  Or else, being tied down with no way to access the anchor while the canoe is rocking will be very dangerous.  Consider using an Exploding Clove Hitch Knot to attach your anchor with plenty of line so you don't have to move in the canoe to instantly release yourself.  You might add another pair of cleats in the middle for the drift sock.  I find I use my drift sock most often from the middle.  But the good thing about an anchor trolley is it holds the tie down point lower, so it's less likely to tip over you canoe if a big wake hits you.  You might check into using some SS bolts and fender washers on the kevlar to attach the anchor trolley.  

 

As for where to buy a drift sock, it doesn't matter.  I got mine from Academy, mainly because it was close and in stock.  They're all pretty much the same.  I recommend to get two small ones.  I find it's good to have a second, because sometimes one isn't enough.  And sometimes one big one is too much.  Two, allows you to choose between having one hang off the middle, or two at both ends.  Be careful with them, however, as they love to get snagged any anything below the water, and you'll come to an abrupt stop which can tip your canoe.  Also, sometimes I'll use a drift sock at one end, and an anchor at the other to keep my kayak aligned, especially if the wind is whipping around, but the current is steady.  

[MN Fisher]

I installed an anchor trolley on my Sun Dolphin canoe - light, polypropylene hull...worked fine.

[Deleted account]

Anchor trolleys sound like a good idea, and I know yak guys get all giddy, like a teenage girl at a boys band concert when discussing them, but a better idea is to use your paddle as a boat hook to move the rode to different tie off, just make sure not to tie off too close to mid ship in heavy current if you aren't familiar with it.

[CountryboyinDC]

That's a nice Bell (I guess Northstar now).

 

I don't see lining holes (holes in the bow and stern, often with a small rope loop or painter line attached), and so I'm at a loss of how to run an anchor trolley without putting holes in the side.  They're a big help, but at the ends of your boat, even with a minimally-rockered one like yours, the trolley line is likely to be over the gunwale, where it will be in the way, whether you're paddling, trying to swing a fish over the gunwale, or a number of other likely scenarios.

 

I'd still try to make an anchor trolley - I find them very helpful whether I'm using stake out poles or a weighted anchor (I don't use drift socks).  To affix the ends to your canoe, you could either use a lining bridle https://www.mensjournal.com/adventure/how-to-line-a-canoe/, or maybe some super-strong suction cups.  The ones that hold the roof rack on my car would be overkill, but something stronger than average might work.  From there, the actual trolley aspect should be simple.

 

I'm not huge on the drift sock, but it could be because of where I fish.  It doesn't keep you in one place, just keeps you from moving with the wind.  It's absolutely worthless if there's current, it just goes with the current.  On rivers, I use a drag chain, and I'd say that's better than a drift sock.  But if you're going out into big water, it may be worth looking into.  West Marine, FishUSA, and a ton of other places sell them.

 

Short of an anchor trolley, you usually want your anchor off the bow, so you'll want to tie to either the most forward thwart or grab handle if your deck plates have one.  This gives you the best angle for your boat to fight the current or wind, and it will keep you mindful of what's going on with your boat before it capsizes, swamps.  Make sure to tie a quick release, and have a knife that can cut that rope quickly on your PFD.

 

 

[padlin]

14' solo canoe. I use an anchor, sometimes 2. They are 1.5" pvc filled with bird shot, cement would probably work too. 1 is 6", 1 is 9". After losing 2 mushrooms to the stumps  I went this route a few years ago. You do drift a bit with just 1 in a stiff breeze, hence the 2nd. I put in anchor cleats, 2 forward, and 2 to the rear but within reach, I use  whichever one the wind suggests.

 

Tried the anchor pole with the same results you did. The same homemade pole works fine in the Bass Raider so I'm guessing one just doesn't get enough downward force when in the canoe. 

[07Rapala]

I just shot an email to Northstar to ask them what they thought was a good idea with this super light boat.

 

As a few of you have suggested, I have considered just putting in some tie-off points as far forward and back as I can reach, and also potentially using the grab rope in the front. FWIW, the one time the stake-out pole did work for me was when I made a loop in my grab rope, put the pole through the loop and then stuck it in the sediment (firm silty sand) right next to me where I could put more force into it, and then let my boat  just hang off the rope and drift back and forth. Seems I could do something similar with an anchor or drift sock line and carabiner or something.

[basscrusher]

There are cool vids on YouTube of how to make a drift sock out of a reusable grocery bag,  some stinkers and paracord

Sinkers, not stinkers

[Bankc]

6 hours ago, CountryboyinDC said:

...I'm not huge on the drift sock, but it could be because of where I fish.  It doesn't keep you in one place, just keeps you from moving with the wind.  It's absolutely worthless if there's current, it just goes with the current.  On rivers, I use a drag chain, and I'd say that's better than a drift sock.  But if you're going out into big water, it may be worth looking into.  West Marine, FishUSA, and a ton of other places sell them....

I don't use my drift socks often.  And, honestly, I don't know if I would at all in a canoe, since I mostly use it for drifting sideways.  But the one situation where I'm glad to have one is whenever the wind is blowing parallel to the bank, and I can point my kayak towards the bank, hang a drift sock over the side, and slowly drift along while casting or pitching to the bank.  Sometimes, if it all aligns right, I can fish a mile or more of bank with very little correction.  It's like having a GPS trolling motor running a route for you.  But that's not an everyday scenario.  Most days, it never gets wet.  

[07Rapala]

I think my situation may be a bit unique compared to a fishing kayak. My boat is only 19 pounds empty, and has a pretty significant freeboard above the water line to catch wind. Any light wind and I get moving pretty fast. That may also be why the staking pole is not so effective for me (so far).

I'm definitely going to get a drift sock and just attach it wherever for now to see how well it works. I like the idea of DIY-ing it with a tote bag, but I don't think my wife wants me cutting up any of her totes! I may try a DIY anchor as well, at least temporarily. I like the idea of a claw anchor that is small and light (and they don't cost much) but for now a milk carton filled with beach sand would work. Heck, I've got some dumbbells I don't use much, should I use 5lbs or 10lbs? ?

[padlin]

5 lbs and you can drift a bit in a breeze, 10 lbs and you won't. 

[A-Jay]

I fish from an Old Town canoe several times a season

and am a huge 'anchor the boat' fan.

Always have at least one and have used 2 on may occasions. 

I don't fish in current so I can get away with securing a single anchor off the starboard quarter (stern).

https://youtu.be/02fPoZHOri8?t=1144

A-Jay

[Catt]

@07Rapala ya using the "stakeout" pole all wrong!

 

We call em throw down poles or marsh anchors.

 

Mine is 4' long made of 3/4" stainless steel. Instead of trying to push it down I simply throw it down.

 

I anchor a 16' Alweld in 10-15 mph winds with zero issues.

 

The one below is made from a grounding rod.

 

[WRB]

Clever....until you spear a alligator on the bottom?

Tom

[MN Fisher]

1 minute ago, WRB said:

Clever....until you spear a alligator on the bottom?

Tom

Would that end up as the bayou version of a Nantucket sleighride?

[michaelb]

I would not drill holes in that beautiful boat. The main purpose of a trolly is to 1) move the anchor point to one end but letting you clip in from the middle and 2) switching ends. I don’t think you need #2; you want to anchor off the far rear most of the time and if you want to switch to the front you can do that manually.

 

if you run a line in the boat from your seat to that cross brace at the rear you can clip the anchor line to that line. The clip will get pulled to the back and to release the anchor you can back paddle and pick up the anchor line, put a float on it. You could also do a half trolly in the rear with pullies and a ring. 
 

i don’t think on a canoe you will want to anchor off the side much; but if so a half trolley gets u most of that usefulness. 

[J Francho]

Anchoring from the stern faces you downstream or downwind, and neither are ideal ways to present a bait.

[07Rapala]

Yeah, I think the anchor trolly is probably unnecessary for me. I'm going pick up a drift sock and anchor soon and experiment with tieing them off to points as far forward and back as I can reach, as well as ropes tied to the bow and stern. Thanks all.

[@reelChris]

On 6/6/2022 at 11:57 AM, Catt said:

 

Mine is 4' long made of 3/4" stainless steel. Instead of trying to push it down I simply throw it down.

 

I anchor a 16' Alweld in 10-15 mph winds with zero issues.

 

 

I'm interested in hearing more about the technique here.  I've had poor results with stakeout poles.  

[WRB]

Anchoring should be off the bow, how you accomplish this in a kayak is run the anchor rope through a bow ring and tie it off next to your boat seat. You can’t effectively crawl up to the bow to retrieve the anchor rope. 

You can clip on a buoy in the event you need to release the anchor rope to retrieve later.

Tom

 

[07Rapala]

In some ways, that does make more sense than what I was going to do, is paddle forward to make some slack and then disconnect and pull it up, but if I'm only anchoring off the bow then I can only cast into the wind, I usually prefer to do the opposite, all other factors aside.

[J Francho]

I can assure you that casting into the wind is almost always the better presentation, if you can hold your boat position. It isn't easier, but easier isn't usually better. The same goes for current. Upstream is almost always better.