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Posted

Hey All,

I’ve never been comfortable with lifting weight off the ground with my rods when setting the drag. So after looking over past posts on different methods I came across one that I think comes close to what I’ve been doing recently. I use 16 oz bottles of water in a light canvas bag for the pounds of drag I want, lay it on the garage floor and then tie my line to it. Pointing the rod tip at the bag I’ll back off a few feet until the line is taut. I’ll then pull the rod back; if the bag is drawn toward me without line coming off the spool the drag is set too tight, if line is pulled of the spool without the bag moving it’s too loose. I’ll adjust until the drag until the bag just starts moving across the floor while at the same time the line starts to be pulled off the spool. At that point I figure the drag is set close to the weight in the bag. Is this fairly accurate? I know the process sounds pretty complicated, but it really doesn’t take that long. One of these days I’ll get comfortable with pulling by hand.

 

Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted

I prefer to let the fish tell me: If I start to tear up their mouth and lose them, the drag is a little too tight; if fish start to jump free of the hook easily, the drag is a little too loose.  

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Nothing is easier, more reliable, or safer than using a spring scale at the first guide (closest to the reel). 

There are $6 to $10 scales out there that do the job just fine, and are highly accurate - 8- or 10-lb range is perfection. 

People who claim to know their drag set without measuring it don't set their drag, period - they're just blowing air. 

 

I have a classy old 8-lb Salton spring balance. 

mRdpnic.jpg

 

Susie landed this after two 50-yd runs on XUL with 6-lb braid and 1.5-lb drag set. 

davSyc9.jpg

fish of a lifetime, and prepared for it

 

As far as tearing out soft mouths, proper use of the rod is more important than varying drag.  No fish has a softer mouth than the beast just above - the hook came out in the net. 

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

I just pull on the line and tighten the drag till it feels about right. Breaking fish off has never been an issue unless using flouro, but that's a whole other can of worms. It ain't rocket surgery.

  • Like 7
  • Super User
Posted

Your method sounds difficult and inaccurate to me.   I use a spring scale,  it’s simple,  fast, and accurate.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

This makes me recall the guy who fished bonefish in the Bahamas for his first time.  He had an elaborate, precise, way of setting the drag to acheive a percentage of the breaking strength of his leader.  A guide took his rod, pulled to test the drag, and told him it was too tight, would cost him fish.  Of course the guy was confident in his method and didn't believe a simple pull on the line could be better, so he kept his setting. 

 

After losing the first two or three fish he let the guide set the drag properly for the conditions.  

 

And all was well.  Except for a bruised ego.

 

There is no need for elaborate methods.  There is need  for reasonably good judgment based on common sense and some experience, as has been suggested above.  

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

For 20 years I never worried about setting my drag and I can honestly say it only cost me one fish.   That fish was the smallmouth of a lifetime and I’ve been setting my drag with a scale for the last 25 years because of that one fish.  If you’re using 60# braid and fishing for bass then your drag doesn’t matter.

  • Like 2
Posted
10 minutes ago, Tennessee Boy said:

If you’re using 60# braid and fishing for bass then your drag doesn’t matter.

...but SOMETIMES....something other than a bass gets on there.

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

Casting controls and the drag are two aspect of my rigs that are 'adjustable'.

And I do that on an as needed basis.

All done by feel with a specific rig in hand. 

Don't recall many lost fish, especially bass, because I jacked up a drag setting.

Once a fished is 'hooked', I almost always error on the side of less drag.

:smiley:

A-Jay

  • Like 4
Posted

Ultralight lines are the only time I worry about precise drag settings, 4lbs and lower, I'm setting to 25%ish using fractional weight plates ... everything else is by feel. If I was using "true-to-test" line I would probably start setting the drag with plates at 6 or 8lb line but im using YZH most of the time so there's a BIG cushion there. 

  • Super User
Posted
11 hours ago, Nelson Delaney said:

Another over thinker…..

Bass fishing guys overthinking fishing? I don't believe that for a minute.... :) 

4 hours ago, MickD said:

This makes me recall the guy who fished bonefish in the Bahamas for his first time.  He had an elaborate, precise, way of setting the drag to acheive a percentage of the breaking strength of his leader.  A guide took his rod, pulled to test the drag, and told him it was too tight, would cost him fish.  Of course the guy was confident in his method and didn't believe a simple pull on the line could be better, so he kept his setting. 

 

After losing the first two or three fish he let the guide set the drag properly for the conditions.  

 

And all was well.  Except for a bruised ego.

 

There is no need for elaborate methods.  There is need  for reasonably good judgment based on common sense and some experience, as has been suggested above.  

Yeah but bonefish are near the top of fight to weight ratio, and LMB, well, let's just say not so much. We used to fish bonefish in the Yucatan with shrimp and locked drags with 20 lb mono just for S&Gs when we got bored, the trick is to let them get a head of steam, and then lift the tip high, they will go airborne, and then you can flick them in the boat.

Posted

The tie off method has never failed me, tie off to a stationary object, stand back a bit and lift rod to fighting position (apprx 10-11 o’clock), adjust drag so it slips when rod is loaded to the max amount of pressure I feel I can apply for the given line. I’ve used scales and the 20-30% settings and feel the tie off method is a better real world way of setting it.

Posted

All opinions are appreciated! I started doing this when I was losing fish shortly after hook set. The guy I was fishing with suggested my drag was set too light. It has worked for me so far. After I set it this way I pull on the line to get an idea how it feels with the line being used. Sooner or later the pull method will be all I’ll need.

Posted
4 hours ago, A-Jay said:

I almost always error on the side of less drag.

^^^this^^^

 

If it goes "ZZZZZZZZ" when I set the hook...too loose.  If a 3+ pounder makes a hard dig under my boat and I don't get at least a little "ZZZ"...too tight.  Spinning gear (which = lighter line) gets much more attention to the drag.  

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I am a drag setter! 

You will know instantly when your drag is too tight when a bass of a lifetime breaks your heart and line at the boat.

Tom

 

  • Like 2
Posted

I only use baitcasters, and I keep my drag a little on the loose side.   I use my thumb during hooksets, and if I need to hoss one out of some brush or something.  

 

FWIW I've landed a 50+ pound catfish on bass tackle with 12 pound test.    I check my line for frays often, and re tie when needed.  I believe this is the major cause for most line breakage.   I've had my line broken 2 times this year.  Once was after I knew I should have re tied.  (a 3ish pound bass on a devils horse)  The other was something big wrapped itself around a bridge pilling.   I don't think a tighter drag and/or high strength braid could have prevented this.  Boat positioning was the cause.   

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