Need some advice putting together the right rods

[pondbassin101]

I'm fishing mainly banks and off a kayak in Central Florida meaning I usually won't carry more than 2 or 3 rods. My current gear is as follows

 

• Daiwa Exceler 7.3 caster with a 7' M fast action rod running braid
• Pfleuger President spinning with a 6'6 M fast action also braid
• Daiwa Exceler 6.3 running mono with some cheap rod not worth mentioning that I want to upgrade

 

I throw mainly soft plastics with the spinning rig. The 7.3 I use for topwater, some moving baits, and jigs. The slower geared 6.3 is better suited for moving baits like spinners and cranks correct? I want to put together 3 rods that will be able to cover pretty much all baits and situations. Would it be better for me to get a new MH casting  rod and pair it with the 7.3 to have more backbone fishing topwater and jigs around cover, and run my existing M casting with the 6.3 for moving baits? Or would it be better to keep the M casting as my all around rod and get a dedicated moving bait casting rod?

[PhishLI]

I use 3 rods on my yak. A 6'6" MF spinning rig. A 7'MH casting rated to 3/4 oz or sometimes a 7'3" MH casting rated to 1 oz depending on conditions, and a 7'3" HF rated to 1 1/2 ozs.

 

The spinning setup is 15lb braid to leader. The MH casting setup is braid or braid to leader, but usually straight braid. The heavy is usually 20lb Big Game Mono. I keep a reel with 50lb braid in my bag just in case. No big deal to swap if I need to. Apart from swimbaits over 1 3/4 oz, or deep cranking, there's not much I can't get done with these three rods each playing multiple roles. I get that some people enjoy being OCD about specific setups being used for only specific baits, but I feel that on a yak I get to stretch the rules. It works out just fine the majority of the time.

[Phil77]

My 3 yak rods are two 7MH and one 7M all casting. The MH are for jig/t rig, and spinnerbait. The medium usually has a square bill on it but can also be used for a plopper in a pinch. I fish out of a big rig fd and could carry two more combos with ease but I try to practice the kiss method in the yak.

[pondbassin101]

7 hours ago, PhishLI said:

I use 3 rods on my yak. A 6'6" MF spinning rig. A 7'MH casting rated to 3/4 oz or sometimes a 7'3" MH casting rated to 1 oz depending on conditions, and a 7'3" HF rated to 1 1/2 ozs.

 

The spinning setup is 15lb braid to leader. The MH casting setup is braid or braid to leader, but usually straight braid. The heavy is usually 20lb Big Game Mono. I keep a reel with 50lb braid in my bag just in case. No big deal to swap if I need to. Apart from swimbaits over 1 3/4 oz, or deep cranking, there's not much I can't get done with these three rods each playing multiple roles. I get that some people enjoy being OCD about specific setups being used for only specific baits, but I feel that on a yak I get to stretch the rules. It works out just fine the majority of the time.

I'm not so much being OCD about using the"proper" setup for specific baits as trying to make sure I won't be trying to drive a nail with a screwdriver once I get on the water.

5 hours ago, Phil77 said:

My 3 yak rods are two 7MH and one 7M all casting. The MH are for jig/t rig, and spinnerbait. The medium usually has a square bill on it but can also be used for a plopper in a pinch. I fish out of a big rig fd and could carry two more combos with ease but I try to practice the kiss method in the yak.

So my idea about getting another MH rod holds merit? I like fishing lightweight t rigs on a spinning rod for the sensitivity but that only really works in open retention ponds and canals. You need a bit more backbone fishing t rigs and jigs around pads, timber, and docks correct? Would you using my M casting for stuff like squarebills and rattle baits work good?

[PhishLI]

22 minutes ago, pondbassin101 said:

I'm not so much being OCD about using the"proper" setup

I wasn't talking about you, and definitely not myself. My point was you can do everything you really need to do with the range of gear I listed. My point was that there're are things you're not supposed to do yet in realty you can definitely do, especially when you're taking an economical approach with just 3 setups. And I'll stick with my rec of at least one Heavy Fast in the mix.

[pondbassin101]

1 minute ago, PhishLI said:

I wasn't talking about you, and definitely not myself. My point was you can do everything you really need to do with the range of gear I listed. My point was that there're are things you're not supposed to do yet in realty you can definitely do, especially when you're taking the economical approach with just 3 setups. And I'll stick with my rec of at least one Heavy Fast in the mix.

Gotcha. Yeah I'm definitely not above bending the "rules" of what should be thrown on what. What's your reasoning for a H fast?

[PhishLI]

37 minutes ago, pondbassin101 said:

What's your reasoning for a H fast?

There are just so many great big bass baits that are outside of the wheelhouse of a typical medium heavy, yet are within the wheelhouse of a Heavy fast rated to 1 1/2 ozs.

 

Stuff like this:

 

[Phil77]

1 hour ago, pondbassin101 said:

Would you using my M casting for stuff like squarebills and rattle baits work good?

Those two can be done with a MH but I always like a M to help pin them a little better. Keep your spinning setup for ned rigs if you have room. I wouldn't bother with a heavy rod in a yak, maybe from the bank around heavy cover.

[BrianMDTX]

I normally carry 5 rigs on my inflatable, but some are duplicates (rigged with different baits). If I narrowed it done to three, it would likely be a 7’ MH/F with a 8.1:1 baitcasting reel with 10 lb. Big Game (Texas rigs); 7’ MH/MF with a 6.3:1 baitcasting reel with 10 lb. Big Game for crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwaters ; and a 6’ 6” M/F spinning rig with 20 lb. braid to 6 or 8 lb. mono leader for wacky rigs, weightless Senko TR, etc. 

 

That’s my main, three-rig everyday go-to’s. If I take 5, it’s a 6’ 10” ML/XF spinning rig with 20 lb. braid to 6 to 8 lb. mono leader for Neds and dropshots; and a 7’ 6” H/F with a 6.6:1 baitcasting reel with 50 lb. braid to 12 lb. YZH leader for frogging. 

[PhishLI]

17 minutes ago, Phil77 said:

I wouldn't bother with a heavy rod in a yak,

Really? Have you fished in Florida much? I have a place down there, but I'm in NY and I wouldn't want to be without one when it's green here. Besides that, guys like my brother and his crew are out on yaks with 6 or more 8'-9' swim baits rods in a yak crate and chucking 2-10 oz swim baits without a second thought. Those sticks make a 7'3" H look like toy.

[Phil77]

38 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Really? Have you fished in Florida much? I have a place down there, but I'm in NY and I wouldn't want to be without one when it's green here. Besides that, guys like my brother and his crew are out on yaks with 6 or more 8'-9' swim baits rods in a yak crate and chucking 2-10 oz swim baits without a second thought. Those sticks make a 7'3" H look like toy.

The OP didn't mention anything about swim or glide baits, or trophy size bass. I have a Huddleston 8XH I can chuck up to 10oz with but I wouldn't do it from a yak, if you and your crew want to more power to you. My two PB's over nine lbs were both caught with 7MH rods and never felt like I was under powered. I have two heavy rods, one mentioned above and a 7-6 MBR that hardly ever leaves the garage. Moving to Carrabelle when the wife retires next year, so maybe fishing everyday down there might convince me of the need for a heavy rod but I doubt it. I wont be fishing out of a yak down there for sure, seen lake placid one to many times.

[pondbassin101]

10 hours ago, BrianMDTX said:

I normally carry 5 rigs on my inflatable, but some are duplicates (rigged with different baits). If I narrowed it done to three, it would likely be a 7’ MH/F with a 8.1:1 baitcasting reel with 10 lb. Big Game (Texas rigs); 7’ MH/MF with a 6.3:1 baitcasting reel with 10 lb. Big Game for crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwaters ; and a 6’ 6” M/F spinning rig with 20 lb. braid to 6 or 8 lb. mono leader for wacky rigs, weightless Senko TR, etc. 

 

That’s my main, three-rig everyday go-to’s. If I take 5, it’s a 6’ 10” ML/XF spinning rig with 20 lb. braid to 6 to 8 lb. mono leader for Neds and dropshots; and a 7’ 6” H/F with a 6.6:1 baitcasting reel with 50 lb. braid to 12 lb. YZH leader for frogging. 

Your 3 rod selection sounds about what I'm looking for. I'm trying to use mainly what I have and buy one more casting rod. That leaves the question of if it should be a MF or F. I'm thinking a MH/MF paired with my 6.3 reel? My current M/F casting rod is a 7' Abu Garcia Veritas 2.0. I bought it years ago when I was in my early teens with lawn mowing money. It without a doubt doesn't fish like the 150-200+ Fenwick, Doybyns, Daiwa, and St Croix rods but it's served me fairly well so far. Anyways to make a long story short, when I was researching it people were saying it fished more like a MH than a M so I think it'll be sufficient for throwing T rigs? I want to invest in a decent moving bait rod because currently I have some $40 rod from Academy and it feels like fishing with a telephone pole.

9 hours ago, Phil77 said:

The OP didn't mention anything about swim or glide baits, or trophy size bass. I have a Huddleston 8XH I can chuck up to 10oz with but I wouldn't do it from a yak, if you and your crew want to more power to you. My two PB's over nine lbs were both caught with 7MH rods and never felt like I was under powered. I have two heavy rods, one mentioned above and a 7-6 MBR that hardly ever leaves the garage. Moving to Carrabelle when the wife retires next year, so maybe fishing everyday down there might convince me of the need for a heavy rod but I doubt it. I wont be fishing out of a yak down there for sure, seen lake placid one to many times.

Correct about that. I don't know if I've ever thrown a glide or swimbait and definitely not 3 or 4 oz ones. I see no need for a Heavy rod in my arsenal. I'm just trying to relax and catch some bass in my downtime not chase 10+ pound trophies all across the state.

[BrianMDTX]

40 minutes ago, pondbassin101 said:

Anyways to make a long story short, when I was researching it people were saying it fished more like a MH than a M so I think it'll be sufficient for throwing T rigs? I want to invest in a decent moving bait rod because currently I have some $40 rod from Academy and it feels like fishing with a telephone pole.

A MH/MF is going to be a better bet for crankbaits. If you feel that your current rod  it’s more akin to a MH/F than a M/F, that will suffice for Texas rigs, etc. 

[PhishLI]

On 5/22/2022 at 1:12 PM, Phil77 said:

The OP didn't mention anything about swim or glide baits, or trophy size bass. I have a Huddleston 8XH I can chuck up to 10oz with but I wouldn't do it from a yak, if you and your crew want to more power to you.

Phil,

 

The OP is going to do what's good for him and that's great, but your response greatly overblows what I said. Even if I allow in this instance that I might've communicated poorly, I'm not sure we're on the same planet here. Simply for comparison, and I did not advocate this to either the OP or you whatsoever, I made the point that big swim bait rods on yaks are not an issue for many people. Therefore, a normal length 5 power heavy bass rod that's capable of throwing quite small 4 3/4" 1-1.5oz baits, which you've somehow dreamed up to 3-4 ozs baits, is easily doable, and isn't much of a stretch from a cookie cutter MH of the same length. And the kooky chasing trophy bass thing? Huh?

On 5/22/2022 at 1:12 PM, Phil77 said:

My two PB's over nine lbs were both caught with 7MH rods and never felt like I was under powered.

That's wonderful. I saw a guy catch a 6 1/2 pounder on a 4 1/2 ft child's rod with a crappie jig. My obvious point was that the baits I showed in pictures, and other typical conventional types outside of the range of an average MH, are better thrown on a non-specialized standard H bass rod. It has nothing to do with the size of bass you've divined that he's not interested in catching, which in itself is baffling. You've contorted what I said.  

 

It's fine with me that you don't see the point of a standard 5 power rod in a yak, but your attempt at policing one point in a rather reasonable gear suggestion by me to a poster who isn't you strikes me as a tad odd.

 

Oh, and good luck not getting eaten by crocodiles. That would really spoil your retirement.

[pondbassin101]

I've taken a look through the pinned rod threads here and I'm eyeing a few different ones. I'm looking for about the 100-150 range. Dobyns Fury lands squarely in that range and from what I'm reading is also a pretty good rod. Also seen some recommendations for the Daiwa Tatulas and I read alot of good things about St. Croix on this forum. Those are bit more expensive. How often and how big of sales can I find on them? How often do rods like that pop up on the flea market here?

[pondbassin101]

I went with the Okuma EVX-S-702MHb, thanks for the help everyone.

[Eric 26]

1 hour ago, pondbassin101 said:

I went with the Okuma EVX-S-702MHb, thanks for the help everyone.

I have the casting version of this rod based on the recommendations and reviews from several members on here and I love it.

[pondbassin101]

48 minutes ago, Eric 26 said:

I have the casting version of this rod based on the recommendations and reviews from several members on here and I love it.

oops thank you for pointing that out. Seems I ordered a spinning rod?

[WRB]

6’10” MHF rod with 10 lb Big Game Daiwa HTIA 6.3:1 reel was used to catch 4 of the 5 giant bass listed in my Avatar using 7/16 oz hair jigs.

You don’t need heavy tackle to catch big bass, just appropriate tackle for the conditions.

Tom

[pondbassin101]

Ok so I was pretty set on a MH M rod but now I'm not so sure after doing some more reading. The general recommendation I'm seeing is if you're running shallower cranks with smaller hooks, i.e squarebills and lipless (which is mostly what I fish), then you're better off with a MM rod. This is to not have too much power on the hookset and bend the hooks I presume? This type of rod would also work for poppers, spooks, jerkbaits, etc.? I also see the recommendation for spinnerbaits, jigs, and worms is a MHF. As I mentioned above I have a MF casting rod that fishes more like a MHF so I think I'm covered on that front for now, might buy an actual MHF rod in the future.

 

Anyways based off all this, Okuma has the EVX-C-681Mb for sale for all of 58 bucks. It's a 6'8 M MF/F rod, which I have a few questions about. What difference does rod length make, will the 4 inch difference between 6'8 and 7' be a advantage or disadvantage here. Secondly, what's the difference between a M/MF action and a MF/F action, also in regards to my use case?

 

Am I turning this into rocket science? I know there's alot of leeway with what rods you're "supposed" to use for certain applications and that there's a good amount of overlap, but I do like having a good grasp on the theory.

[Eric 26]

In my opinion for the $58.00 it’s worth a try.  The shorter length means you will not get as much distance as a 7’ rod. It will be easier to work top water lures with that length which is a benefit for when you add another combo or rod so you can dedicate this rod to top water only. Being a moderate fast/fast rod is similar to a rod I recently broke that I spoke about. IMHO without handling this particular rod, if it were me I would pair the rod with a quality monofilament for some stretch when using treble hooks and use braid if you’re planning on using single hooks such as Texas rigged plastics. I hope this helped and I’m sure you will get someone with more experience than me to answer. 

[pondbassin101]

2 hours ago, Eric 26 said:

In my opinion for the $58.00 it’s worth a try.  The shorter length means you will not get as much distance as a 7’ rod. It will be easier to work top water lures with that length which is a benefit for when you add another combo or rod so you can dedicate this rod to top water only. Being a moderate fast/fast rod is similar to a rod I recently broke that I spoke about. IMHO without handling this particular rod, if it were me I would pair the rod with a quality monofilament for some stretch when using treble hooks and use braid if you’re planning on using single hooks such as Texas rigged plastics. I hope this helped and I’m sure you will get someone with more experience than me to answer. 

What you said about easier to work topwater sounds like a big benefit when fishing from a yak. It's decently stable standing up but still a balancing game and I'd rather not go for an unplanned swim. That's exactly what I planned on pairing it with. I have a 6:3 with I think 12 pound mono on it. Don't remember what brand because it's been a while but it's definitely not cheap line.