What’s the benefit of high end cranking rods? (Nrx, conquest…)

[TNBankFishing]

9 hours ago, clemsondds said:

You are right. I was thinking the mbr line which I know some run crankbaits on them, but I was also thinking IMX pro cbr line. And there are several megabass crankbait rods (blade, zcrank, flatside special...) 

I guess I was just wondering how the traditional glass rods like st croix legend glass compare with other high end rods of gloomis and megabass.  

I’ve owned a MB tomahawk, and still own an Otomat. They are what you’d expect from megabass in terms of feel, and quality construction. My tomahawk was traded away, but I don’t regret it. The Otomat will stick with me until it explodes or I die. I really like the feel of the blank and the versatile nature of the rod. 
 

I’ve fished a Croix mojo bass glass rod and it was surprisingly light and sensitive considering the price point.  
 

The blade isn’t a crankbait rod, much more spinnerbait or bladed jig. It has too much power to reliably keep trebles pinned. The Z crank is designed for MBs own smaller cranks. I’d never throw anything near 1/2 oz on it. The flat side is similar to the Otomat and is the only “crankbait” focused rod they still make. 
 

I would feel VERY comfortable using a legend glass over any of the rods you’ve looked into. The action and power are built for a single purpose and I’ve been impressed with all of my legend x/elite rods. 

[Dwight Hottle]

I have the IMX Pro 904C SWBR 7'6" swimbait rod rated 1/2-3oz and I can tell you it is killer rod for crankbait use. It handles everything thing from 1/2 lipless to SK 10XD. Very versatile rod for other uses.  

[FishTank]

I love high end rods.  I tend to buy two or more setups a year just for the fun of it. But when it  comes to what the OP is asking about getting, which is a rod in the $500-$725 range. I would get a St. Croix Legend Glass and a G.Loomis IMX. That would still be cheaper than one NRX or Conquest, he could cover a wider range of baits, and he would have two of the best rods made for crankbaits.  

[MickD]

I like high end rods for cranking because they are lighter, I can feel the action of the lure better, can feel and evaluate the bottom better, possibly a minor advantage in casting distance (faster recovery time).

 

I don't think there is an advantage in keeping fish hooked up or feeling the bites.  With cranks the strike is either a significant attack on the lure, or the lure just stops.  Either way, not hard to determine with any tackle.

[Bird]

The advantage I like the best is actually weight savings. Fishing all day gives me wrist and hand fatigue so it's nice to grab that lightweight combo.

That said, high-end to me might be a compromise to others.

 

#2   better materials add to durability.

[clemsondds]

59 minutes ago, FishTank said:

I love high end rods.  I tend to buy two or more setups a year just for the fun of it. But when it  comes to what the OP is asking about getting, which is a rod in the $500-$725 range. I would get a St. Croix Legend Glass and a G.Loomis IMX. That would still be cheaper than one NRX or Conquest, he could cover a wider range of baits, and he would have two of the best rods made for crankbaits.  

I have the legend glass...that's what I am referring to.  It's very different from the rest of my mb, steez and nrx rods...so just didn't know fit here was a good crankbait rod out there that had similar weight and characterics to the high end rod while still maintaining a somewhat moderate action.  I haven't fished the imx pro line yet.  So I guess I'm mainly looking at the Imx pro line or a few of the megabass rods (eg Elseil, flat side...) 

I'm not giving up on the SC glass yet...just doing some research and getting all of your thoughts and opinions.  Just a fun discussion.  Thank you all! 

10 minutes ago, Bird said:

The advantage I like the best is actually weight savings. Fishing all day gives me wrist and hand fatigue so it's nice to grab that lightweight combo.

That said, high-end to me might be a compromise to others.

 

#2   better materials add to durability.

Which rods do you use for cranking?  I think you have mentioned it before but I can't remember. thanks

[Chris Catignani]

One disadvantage of a high end rod is you get to second guessing weather you should boat flip a fish or not.

[Bird]

1 hour ago, clemsondds said:

I have the legend glass...that's what I am referring to.  It's very different from the rest of my mb, steez and nrx rods...so just didn't know fit here was a good crankbait rod out there that had similar weight and characterics to the high end rod while still maintaining a somewhat moderate action.  I haven't fished the imx pro line yet.  So I guess I'm mainly looking at the Imx pro line or a few of the megabass rods (eg Elseil, flat side...) 

I'm not giving up on the SC glass yet...just doing some research and getting all of your thoughts and opinions.  Just a fun discussion.  Thank you all! 

Which rods do you use for cranking?  I think you have mentioned it before but I can't remember. thanks

main cranking Rods are Lew's custom and Cashion Core.

Just for reference regarding " high end ".

All my Rods are under $200 regardless of how their being used.

 

[blackrain]

I would search out anything from David Frits. He’s probably forgotten more about fishing crank baits than anyone on the tour.

 

With regard to buying an NRX level rod for crankbaits, this makes zero sense to me. Everyone loses crankbait fish. I would first look into tweaking your line choice and most importantly hook choice. All the pros swap out stock hooks for a reason.

[WRB]

I made my 1st dedicated crank bait rod in ‘71 from a salt water Fenwick 7’ Popping rod blank Trigger Stick handle kit.

Caught 1,000’s of crank bait bass on it.

My 1st OTC crank bait rod to replace the Popping rod was Custom* 705R Composite rod and used it until sold it in 2020, prefect rod for lures 1/2 to 1 oz like Poe Super Cedar 300, Norman DD-14 to DD-22’s, Bagley DB3 Dredge crank baits for me. 

For lighter weight 1/4- 1/2 oz  crank baits/ lipless  G.Loomis Popping rod PR845C was my go to crank bait and structure spoons rod. Bought for $100 from a local Shop someone ordered didn’t want it. 

Basically I never paid more then $150 for Crank bait rods.

Note, IROD IRG 754F is a good big deep diving 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 oz crank bait rod.

It’s your money and your choice how you spend it but not necessary for high crank baits rods imo.

Tom

* cork 3” foregrip.

[clemsondds]

9 hours ago, Bird said:

main cranking Rods are Lew's custom and Cashion Core.

Just for reference regarding " high end ".

All my Rods are under $200 regardless of how their being used.

 

I have heard good things about the cashion rods…haven’t had a chance to try them. 
looks like there’s more variety in people’s crankbait rods than anything else! Lots of cool options!  

 

[TNBankFishing]

11 hours ago, clemsondds said:

I have heard good things about the cashion rods…haven’t had a chance to try them. 
looks like there’s more variety in people’s crankbait rods than anything else! Lots of cool options!  

 

Cranking sticks seem to be in the eye of the caster. Everyone can get behind an NRX or Steez for bottom contact, but man when you find the cranking stick for you it turns into a gem. 
 

Until I had the Otomat I used one of the glass Zodias rods and I still take it with me when I’m beating the bank because it just feels right. 

[txchaser]

I have two composite rods, and if (well, when) I buy another cranking rod I'll find a graphite rod with the action I want. They work just fine, but I'm pretty sure I'm not noticing some swipes or nips. 

 

 

[TBAG]

I don't think I've ever lost a fish on my Legend Glass, plus it's just so much fun to fish with.

[Columbia Craw]

The one thing I can agree on is, when you find that just right rod, you’ll know it. 

[spoonplugger1]

Like many said before, I think anytime a rod is fished with a tight line, high modulus materials are not necessary to get the job done.

[clemsondds]

8 hours ago, spoonplugger1 said:

Like many said before, I think anytime a rod is fished with a tight line, high modulus materials are not necessary to get the job done.

Right, well, I agree it's not "necessary" but I think there's something to be said with having a little bit more sensitivity...while I don't think it's necessary to have nrx sensitivity, I do think that somewhere between will be useful.  I have tried both and really like being able to feel the immediate feedback of hitting a small branch or when the bait stops wobbling.  Just my opinion of course. 

[QED]

Light weight, top shelf materials/components, and exquisite workmanship.  Functional works of art.  One doesn't need high end stuff to be successful at fishing, but it does make fishing more enjoyable to me.

[spoonplugger1]

I have never had the problem of not feeling the branch, bottom, lure wobble, or lack of, etc. on a tight line. I cut my teeth on learning to recognize minor changes on slack, or near slack line presentations on fish who take offerings much lighter than an old bucket mouth does, and old E glass rods were all there was back than, tight line presentations are just like falling off a log after that, the only thing easier then tight line fishing is floats, or seeing them take the offering.

As we know if you are reeling in a bait at, or near dead on down the line like we do many times, the rod really isn't even in the mix, it's a straight on line to reel connection more than anything else.