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Posted

After looking at many photos here, I don't see any screws or finish washers on the top side of carpeting. Do you guys screw down your plywood first, and then carpet it? If so, how do you work the carpet when you have a tight fit of the plywood at the sides of boat, or against any other boat surface? In cases like that, there's no room to wrap the carpet under plywood. When I did mine, I carpeted the plywood first, then laid it down and used screws with finish washers. Now I'm wondering if I did it the best way. Thanks.

  • Super User
Posted

I use a template made of cardboard to mark out the sheet of aluminum (I don't use plywood), then use the template to cut out the carpet leaving it 1/2" over size, weld the aluminum deck in place and glue carpet down.

  • Super User
Posted

Most guys cut the carpet ever so slightly larger than the surface they're covering and then do the edge trim work with a utility knife, changing blades often. Take your time doing that. You could finish that edge off with some trim like I did. Lowes sells door sealing aluminum trim with a rubber insert. I pealed the rubber sealer out of it and used just the trim. It's already got holes drilled every 18" or so.

One other thing doing it your way.  With the carpet wrapped around floors or other surfaces that don't move, you stand a very good chance of having moisture trapped in that wrapped carpet which will start the mold and mildew process.  Carpet wrapped around compartment lids isn't an issue as you can open those lids and air them out. 

  • Super User
Posted

I recently replaced the carpet on my boat, which has 3/4" plywood decking.  I first coated the decking with fiberglass resin.  I then glued the carpet to the decking, rolled it under the edges and stapled it down; exactly as it came from the factory.  I then reattached the decks to the boat with self-tapping screws.  Some of the screw holes are still visible, but the nap of the carpet will eventually hide them.  As for mold and mildew, it wasn't an issue with the previous carpeting, so I doubt that it will be an issue with the new.

  • Super User
Posted

If on a deck for something like a jon boat to mount your TM, I just use pressure treated plywood.  I cut my carpet to the rough size I want it, apply a good coat of DAP/Weldwood contact cement on the back of the carpet and the all the plywood sufaces I want it to stick.  I wrap the carpet around the edges and fold under about two inches, where I also have contact cement.  I cut and tuck the corners so the wood is not exposed and then use #12 tappered head stainless screws to attach it.  Once sunk in, the screws are almost invisible and the carpet is going nowhere.

When doing the floor or recessed deck of a bass boat, I cut the carpet pieces a little over side, contact glue both surfaces, tuck it in real tight with a heavy putty knife and cut the edges with a carpet knife for a nice tight fit.  If working in a tight area where you don't want the carpet to stick before getting it in place, like inside storage boxes, just place wax paper over the surface your trying to get the carpet into.  Once the carpet is in place, slide the wax paper out and press the carpet in place.  Just don't put pressure on the wax paper, or it will make it difficut to get out.

Just remember, the name says it all, let the two surface with cement touch, and they are usually there to stay.

I always use contact cement.  It holds, until you rip the carpet up to replace it again, it does not requier any clamping and waiting to dry when doing cover lids, just fold it around press it in place and go. 

My first boat I did years ago, I used outdoor carpet glue.  What a flipping nightmare getting everything stuck down where it would stay.  Since then, nothing but DAP/Weldwood original formula contact cement.

Also, when doing a whole boat with lids and a bunch of pieces of carpet, make sure you cut everything on the same bias/grain/weave, if not, it will look like it's two toned carpet.  The light will reflect off the weave patterns differently.

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