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  • Super User
Posted
4 hours ago, WRB said:

You can’t build a lighter weight rod then over the counter Phenix Feather ML 7’ is 2.9 oz.

Tom

What is the ERN of that 2.9 oz blank?  That's a pretty heavy blank for someone looking to build a light rod.

8 minutes ago, MikeK said:

Action and power are all over the place

Not with Point Blank. They publish CCS specs on all their blanks.  NFC plans to publish CCS numbers for all their blanks, but until they do their subjective descriptions have no relationship to CCS spec numbers.  By purchasing from only those manufacturers who provide CCS numbers you will be moving the industry in the right direction. 

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  • Super User
Posted
5 minutes ago, MickD said:

What is the ERN of that 2.9 oz blank?  That's a pretty heavy blank for someone looking to build a light rod.

Not with Point Blank. They publish CCS specs on all their blanks.  NFC plans to publish CCS numbers for all their blanks, but until they do their subjective descriptions have no relationship to CCS spec numbers.  By purchasing from only those manufacturers who provide CCS numbers you will be moving the industry in the right direction. 

It’s not the blank weight it’s the total finished rod weight.

Tom

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Posted

Do these super skinny blanks have the backbone  to really be used on any sized bass ? 

 

What are  the VERIFIED 3 lightest setups in the world ?

 

Oh well.

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  • Super User
Posted

Everyone brags about their lightest rod build without mentioning an objective measure of the power.  Even the Feather mentioned, what is its CCS ERN?  Not mentioned.  

 

There is no value in listing "the lightest. . . " without including an objective measure of their lenght and  power.  

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Posted
2 hours ago, MickD said:

Not with Point Blank. They publish CCS specs on all their blanks.  NFC plans to publish CCS numbers for all their blanks, but until they do their subjective descriptions have no relationship to CCS spec numbers.  By purchasing from only those manufacturers who provide CCS numbers you will be moving the industry in the right direction. 

 My point was more about picking a blank for a specific purpose.  How does the OP know what CCS power to look for in a blank?  Start with some measurements on existing equipment and relate it to fishing experience.  Then get info from builders like you who have measurements on a wide range of blank models, not just the few with manufacturer provided info.

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  • Super User
Posted
29 minutes ago, MikeK said:

How does the OP know what CCS power to look for in a blank? 

From experience, as you say,  fishing a number of rods with known ccs numbers. 

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Posted

I just pulled the trigger on a point blank 701mlf. It's been recommended by lots of people to me and to tons of other people who have asked about a high-end blank for all around finesse Bass fishing. Now I can put them aside my side. ( Once it gets here )

Posted

@SkinnyWaterBasser

Keep in mind, a blank's (or rod) stated weight rating is for total weight. While not absolute, something like a weightless 5" senko or 1/4oz shakey head (+ weight of the plastic) will be very near the maximum weight rating for a blank capped at 3/8oz.

 

This might be old news but I felt like it was worth mentioning. 

 

If nothing else you will probably end up with a great ned rig rod, everyone needs a dedicated ned rod...

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  • Super User
Posted
7 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

I just pulled the trigger on a point blank 701mlf. It's been recommended by lots of people to me and to tons of other people who have asked about a high-end blank for all around finesse Bass fishing. Now I can put them aside my side. ( Once it gets here )

Good choice.  I just talked with a good friend that I gifted with a rod built on that blank and he just got back from a day on St Clair where he and his partner took about 45 smallies.  The rod is now "his favorite rod," and he can now "feel the bites."  

11 hours ago, cyclops2 said:

What are  the VERIFIED 3 lightest setups in the world ?

I don't think we will find solid "verification" on internet forums.  

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Posted

My observation of " Feel the bites. "

I watch the limp line give a twitch. WAY  WAY before any feelings with the rod tip.  As we convert to Stiffer rods. Tip movement will be less.

I leave a precise amount of slack line for bottom bait fishing conditions.

I also can see differences when drifting or trolling with 4 or 6# lines

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Posted
4 hours ago, MickD said:

just talked with a good friend that I gifted with a rod built on that blank

How do I get on your friend list?! Lol seriously, what a guy!

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Posted

I don't think you can buy a ML Phenix Feather spinning rod, last weight I saw listed for one that was actually weighed was 3.12 oz. on the casting version.

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Posted

Buying a factory rod is likely a thing of the past for me. Unless it's replacing my daughter's princess zebco. I'll buy her as many as she wants. 

Posted

So I'm sitting here playing with some measurements as far as laying out the guides. I multiplied the spool diameter of 47 mm by 27 and got 1296 mms, 50 inches, from the proposed spool face position to the choker, with the remaining distance from choker to tip at 25" I am thinking of placing them as follows and tweak from there. Kb at 25, kb-4.5", kt-4.125",kt-4.125",kt-4.125",kt-4.125", kg tip top-4". Do these measurements leave too much space between runners or is that something best left for static testing? 4.125 seems like it's pretty close but I might be way off. Am I on the right track?

Posted

I decided to add another kb in the mix, I've got 5 kts to work with so I can add another one or two to that layout if needed. Just trying to get some basics mapped out so once all the components are here I'll be a step ahead, I might move the reel an inch forward, as it would sit based on my measurements the grip length would be about 8.75" like I said I might lengthen the grip by an inch which would cut out any fractions and bring the guides at every 4" to the tip top. Am I in left field?

Posted

I wrapped with the color on the left side of the thread carriage then set it out, I think a shade slightly brighter and slightly more red will be just about dead nuts color match to the vanford.

IMG_20220514_202316673.jpg

Posted

You're kinda in left field. Too many guides if you are putting all the runners 4 inches apart. The last runner might be 4 inches from the tip, or even a little less, but they can be 6 or 7 inches apart further from the tip depending on how fast the fast the blank is. For a 7 foot rod you're going to end up with 8 guides total, maybe 9 if the blank is really fast as guides will be closer together near the tip.  Also not understanding using the spool diameter to place the choker guide. Spool diameter makes no difference for that with the KR system. Just use the KR GPS on anglersresource.com to place the first 4 guides, then go from 6 or 7 inches between guides to 3.5 to 4 inches from the last guide to the tip. Then static load to position more precisely. 

Posted
8 minutes ago, uno said:

You're kinda in left field

Glad I'm not scared to ask a question. Lol thanks!!

Posted

We all had to learn some way. Better to learn from our mistakes so you can make different mistakes and learn other stuff. I recently made a rod that I thought really sucked. Stripped everything and did it again with different components. Much better this time. Got to learn how to scrape and refinish a rod blank in the process.

Posted
16 minutes ago, uno said:

 

The measurement from butt to tip of spool axle at mid cycle, they're talking about the shaft the spool rides on correct?

Oh man I bet that's time consuming, I have a practice blank that I was messing with and cutting those guides off without damaging the blank took seriously effort, I can't imagine doing an entire rod over like that. I guess it's a reality though sometimes if the mistake cost having exactly what you want with no sacrifices. The whole point of a custom.

Posted

Yep, the spool shaft. Doesn't need to be exact, is doesn't affect the outcome very much. I usually put 12 inches, but I like a longer handle. And yes, scraping the whole blank was a pain, but I didn't want to put the new guides in the same place as the old, and once you take guides off there is no way to hide where to guides used to be on a painted blank. 

Posted

So I got pretty much the rest of my components today and I'm sitting here thinking about dry fitting my fighting butt / rod end. When reaming polyurethane foam is it best to use power and go slow or to hand ream and go slow? It's hard stuff but I get the feeling you can remove material very fast with the reamers. 

Posted

Id also like to say that this point blank seems every bit of what I was looking for, pre-fish, in-hand-only. I'm excited to see what they'll really do on the water.  . I don't know what it is about the point blank but it has a very light feel to it( obviously it's light. Heavier than advertised by .11oz ) maybe it's the extra 2" on the NFC that gives it a heavier feel in my hand even though it's .31 oz lighter physically. 

 

Posted

Hand ream and go slow.  Remember several inches of a Point Blank butt is straight (not tapered). 

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  • Super User
Posted

What reduction guides are you using?  I thought I remember your going with Fuji KLH group.  If so spool diameter is irelevant. It's more about what line you're using.  

 

What blank are we now talking about for guide locations?  

 

I almost always use 9 guides + tiptop on a 7 foot blank.

 

Why not use the stress testing procedures at numerous on-line tutorials to locate the runners?  

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