Looking to build the lightest spinning rod possible

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

The one I'm starting with is the NFC, I have the klh reductions, 2 kb 4.5s, and 4-5 kts with a kg tip top, I went and re layed it out using the kr software and it looks like a good starting point. That's all I was looking for, just where to start before running the static testing

 

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

The first build is still going to be the NFC, and yes I'm running the Klh. 20h 10h 5.5m 4.5kbx2 4.5kt ( I have 5 to work with ) I removed my initial layout and ran it through the kr software and used 6" to the second job, 5.5 to the second kb, 5" to the first kt, then 4.75to the second kt, 4.5 to the third, 4.5 to the fourth, leaving 4" to the tip. I was not setting these distances in stone, just looking for a good starting point to see what static testing showed.

[MickD]

If you're trying to locate guides on the PB701 MLF I can tell you what I've used, and you can go from there. 

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

Anyone have experience with rods that have the ags guides? 

[MickD]

What are ags guides?

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

Carbon fiber guide frames by the looks of it.

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

Seems like that would further cut weight and improve response, but seems like a risky thing as far as toughness is concerned.

 

Anyway, I just dry fit the fighting butt and the nut cover on the point blank since I'm waiting on the hidden thread cap on the other one ( I ordered for a size 16 seat not a 17, oops.) I'm going to get some scotch Brite tomorrow to prep the surfaces and some masking tape ( not for arbors I'm using poly foam) to keep the abrasive where I want and to mark things as far as where I want them. I'm about to cut my arbors and fit the seat around the arbors.

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

[MikeK]

That reel seat leaves the blank exposed?  For best appearance you may want to figure out the size and position of your poly arbors and glue them on the blank cleaning up the inside edge of each one well enough so glue doesn't show.  Don't scuff the blank between the arbors.  If you use Fast Set Gel Epoxy you should be able to glue the reel seat about 1 hour after the arbors.  You then will still probably need to do some inside cleanup with cotton swabs after the reel seat is glued.

 

Hope that makes sense!

 

What are the pieces of the fighting butt?

[Chris Catignani]

5 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

 

Those reel seats come with an optional Bushido Insert...it would take up that space.

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

I have an insert but after placing it on the blank as is, the "skeleton" look I like. If I can't get good results before the epoxy sets up I'll pull it off, clean everything up and run the insert. 

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

As far as adding a little style without adding a bunch of weight, what do you guys think? Winding checks between the rear split grips? Maybe some 1/4-1/2 inch wraps to match the guides? I'd like to add some pop, lightweight pop... I'll be adding a winding check in front of the reel seat, no foregrip.

[MikeK]

10 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

As far as adding a little style without adding a bunch of weight, what do you guys think? Winding checks between the rear split grips? Maybe some 1/4-1/2 inch wraps to match the guides? I'd like to add some pop, lightweight pop... I'll be adding a winding check in front of the reel seat, no foregrip.

 

Look at the silicon rubber colored winding checks from Mud Hole.

 

My personal preferences for that reel seat are that I don't like the way it feels in my hand and I don't like the way it looks without the insert.  With the insert it is definitely heavier than a Fuji DPSM17 and without the insert it may be slightly heavier.  Heavier helps make the finished rod a little less tip heavy (neat how all this interacts!).  That's why we build custom!

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

I honestly don't feel much difference with/without the insert? Different strokes for different folks. Lol I prepped the surface and mixed 2 batches of epoxy about 15 minutes apart, I applied epoxy and the fighting butt, once that was cured I found the spine and set the reel seat, I was able to achieve the skeletonized, no insert seat, by epoxying only the areas that would have epoxy and working it back and forth until the epoxy was fully saturated between the surfaces, the area between the arbors I covered in masking tape prior and as I was sliding the seat on I started to slowly and carefully put a thin layer of epoxy through the "window" of the seat while rotating it, pulled it past where the seat will actually sit and applied epoxy on the fore side of the seat, once I was satisfied with the saturation of epoxy between the front of the seat and the arbor, I began finding the edges of the tape through the"windows" in the seat I pulled it up and out while rotating the blank, remeasured, set the seat on the spine, and now she's drying up, the tape between the arbors allowed me to keep epoxy where I wanted it, the only thing I feel wasn't accounted was how the tape would inevitably get a small amount of epoxy on the inside surface of the seat. I'm trying to capture a picture of it but it's hard to get a good angle, here are some pictures, hopefully they're good enough to see my work. Always open to honest critiquing even if it is critical, I'm going to make mistakes, it takes guys that know better to point those out, my fishing buddy telling me it's awesome isn't what I'm looking for. Lol thanks in advance for reading the book I wrote

[MikeK]

Looks clean!  Wasn't thinking about up-locking hidden thread hood when you were asking about winding checks in split grip area.

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

10 minutes ago, MikeK said:

Looks clean!

Thank you! After dry fitting I decided that I really like the no frills simplicity of the cork and graphite. No need to really dress it up, at least to my eyes. Not sure where I'll stick the blank spec and point blank decals yet, might be hard to put them on if I wait till it's done, then they might never get put on. Lol

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

3.3 oz as it sits. Guides are 3.8(.135 oz) grams for 9 guides and the tip top. Where would you guys put it after adding the wraps and finish? Gotta be well under 4 as long as I keep to very minimal wraps and finish.

[MickD]

18 minutes ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

Where would you guys put it after adding the wraps and finish?

3.55-3.6

 

Vinyl/rubber wrap checks weigh almost nothing, apply ample epoxy covering the whole check, encapsulating it, and you'll have a nice filet shape.  A metallic 4 wrap nail knot next to it, then some colored thread.  Very classy.  

20 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

 

 

[uno]

I have a Steez spinning rod with the AGS guides. They're cool, but I see no advantage to them. Actually they are way bigger than they need to be and I bet I could save weight by having titanium guides in what I think are the right sizes. The newer version of the Steez does have smaller guides. I'm sure the AGS guides are also easier to break, but I've had no problems. Short answer: I think it is a waste of time and money to look for a set of take off AGS guides (you can't buy them new). 

 

I don't use winding checks unless I have to. I just put some thread down next to the grip, usually a 1/4 inch or so with some kind of trim in the middle or at the end. 

[MickD]

Familiar with nail knot as used here?  If not look it up on the internet and get back with me for a tip or two on doing them as trim.

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

1 minute ago, MickD said:

Familiar with nail knot as used here?  If not look it up on the internet and get back with me for a tip or two on doing them as trim.

I am familiar. That's the one that people often used straw to tie correct?

[MickD]

1 hour ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

I am familiar. That's the one that people often used straw to tie correct?

Yes, or a nail or any small cylinder to allow you to pass the thread back under the wraps.  If you use them for trim on a wrap then don't try to cut off the tags just after tying and tightening and burnishing.  Leave them long and put a drop of CP on the junction of the knot.  Let it dry, then cut off the tags.  Knot will be more stable, tags will not loosen as much as if you trim them right away.  .  If not using CP then any super glue will work and the thread color will be the same at the drop as all over the rest of the wrap when finish is applied.  

 

[SkinnyWaterBasser]

2 hours ago, uno said:

I have a Steez spinning rod with the AGS guides. They're cool, but I see no advantage to them. Actually they are way bigger than they need to be and I bet I could save weight by having titanium guides in what I think are the right sizes.

Is the future of guides carbon framed micros? Have we already reached the pinnacle of guide technology? I love the battles to build the next best thing between all the top companies. I'm always excited when new "tech" is made available.

I ordered a set of the black titanium framed pentalite guides to try next. My guess is that an identical sized set fishes identical. Not positive but we'll definitely see. ?

[MickD]

9 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

Is the future of guides carbon framed micros?

Your titanium framed set of 9 weighed .135 oz.  Your  titanium tiptop probably weighs .0078 ounce.  Part of that weight is the ring, not the frame.  So how much lighter can carbon-framed guides get, and how much faster will that make the rod recovery?  Probably not a lot.  The Daiwa guides, especially the reduction guides, are pretty ugly compared to Fuji KLH style guides, IMHO.  

 

But marketing fishing tackle is a lot like marketing wine, depending a lot on the advertising copy writers' skill in describing the subtleties and  possibilities more than the actualities.

 

If one really wants to measure the difference, I can show you how.

[uno]

21 hours ago, MickD said:

Yes, or a nail or any small cylinder to allow you to pass the thread back under the wraps.  If you use them for trim on a wrap then don't try to cut off the tags just after tying and tightening and burnishing.  Leave them long and put a drop of CP on the junction of the knot.  Let it dry, then cut off the tags.  Knot will be more stable, tags will not loosen as much as if you trim them right away.  .  If not using CP then any super glue will work and the thread color will be the same at the drop as all over the rest of the wrap when finish is applied.  

 

Thanks for the tip. I've used the color preserver trick but never super glue. Nail knots can get annoying sometimes as they have a bad habit of popping loose. Sometimes I just put the tag ends of the trim wrap under the main wrap. It's much more secure, but also more time consuming and complex.

 

Also, ugly is definitely the word for the giant size 25 carbon fiber butt guide on my steez. I don't yet have the gumption to cut those off and put titanium fujis, thought I did replace the recoils on my NRX with titanium SIC and I like the rod way more.