Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First trip out and somehow noticed a pretty small crack starting where my wheel system mounts to top of kayak. I used the backer plate they provided just in case that question comes up. Anyone have similar issue and has a fix or maybe something to slow down the process of it tearing completely off? Any direction is appreciated. 

Posted

Guess my solution will be adding a big top plate for additional stress relief hopefully that keeps it from getting worse. Maybe add plastic weld first

Posted

I recently added landing gear on my Native and this is my biggest fear with using them. As much a these kayaks cost there has to be a better way. I have the C-tug as well.

Posted

Yea it sucks. All I can think of is add a backer to the top where it’s cracking and hopefully that buys me another season. There’s really no other flat enough spot or I’d remount it somewhere else and fill the holes. If it totally fails I suppose I’d just repair cracks and have to buy a stupid cart. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

You used this product once and it cracked your boat?  I've thought this product was a bad idea.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Pogues2300 said:

No it’s been on there two years and it’sa tiny crack my 47 year old eyes can barely see but yeah it’s not great lol

A tiny crack will become a big crack quickly.  I had the Boonedox on my Atak and it started tearing.  I will NEVER use the Boonedox again.  Nice convenience but it takes five seconds to put my kayak on my Wilderness Systems cart.  To store it on the kayak I just slide one of the supports into a rod holder on  my crate. 

Posted

This is the very reason why I never fooled around with the landing gear wheels, Boonedox and the likes. I've heard of many failures like this. Maybe they work better on a purpose built kayak, like the Native brands. There's a heavy duty track along with thicker molding around the mounting areas for their Sidekick option. Any other Kayak is just too thin and with mounting plate or no mounting plate they seem to fail after a while. 

  • Super User
Posted

I have seen lots of this same issue in many kayaks.  It is a ton of stress in a small location.  If it was me I would remove it, plastic weld it up and get a new cart.  I had a C-tug for a few years, great cart and now have a wildy cart and it is a lot nicer and easier to use.  

Posted

@Zcoker  I installed the sidekick on my Native not long ago, the octagon pcs at the end of the legs are garbage!  They are held on by roll pins of all things and mine have already started to bend. Im not happy considering it was $250.

Posted

Remove the Boondox would be my first move. It's going to make it worse if not.

 

Thanks for posting this because I thought those things looked sketchy to me, but it depends on the kayak too. I may need a new cart this year.

Posted
17 hours ago, Jmilburn76 said:

@Zcoker  I installed the sidekick on my Native not long ago, the octagon pcs at the end of the legs are garbage!  They are held on by roll pins of all things and mine have already started to bend. Im not happy considering it was $250.

 

Sorry to hear about that. I've always had my doubts about these onboard contraptions supporting all that weight on any kayak. I mean, sure, it's a good idea, no doubt about it. Maybe things hold up for a while but sooner or later somethings gottta give. On my Old Town, I just went with the Wilderness System cart and have zero issues. It goes through thick or thin, up steep ramps or even up and over ledges, works fantastic in ANY condition, super robust cart. Can even stow it in my Kayak through the front hull hatch. 

  • Like 2
Posted

The whole "kayak cart" deal is a sore subject for me. I've bought a cheap $35 cart from Academy, a not so cheap c-tug, expensive Wilderness Kayak cart and the way overpriced Hobie Cart.

 

I don't really care for carts I have to strap down. The Hobie cart thru the reinforced scuppers is awesome as you pull it part way off the trailer, pop in the cart and head to the ramp. Lift the back in, cart falls out and you can walk them back to the truck to store or stick'em on the back of the kayak and fish.

 

Problem comes to light when you're done fishing and getting out of the water. You don't have to completely unload the boat but you have to significantly unload a few things or when you turn it on it's side your crap will be all over the ramp. I know there are a few DIY remedies for this but none of them appeal to me.

 

The Boonedox Landing gear looks like a gift from the gods on paper but a large majority of the people who fish tournaments on our trail who have them also have a crack problem. (I just now realized that last sentence is hilarious and I didn't mean for it to be, but I'm leaving it. LOL!)

 

I've just found the easiest solution for me is I have a kayak specific trailer, like a boat or skidoo trailer is meant to back into the water. However I don't back mine in the water. I get the rubber as close to water as I can and the hubs stay bone dry. I slide it off and the rear of the kayak hits water and then I just lift the front and she comes right off. I leave about half the yak on the ramp and the back floating, park the truck and reverse it when I leave.

  • Like 1
Posted

This might be a workable possiblity. I've been toying with the idea for awhile. This is a dynamic dolly. They also have trailer kits where you can use the dolly also. 

 

type_7_dolly_copy_1_39__27618.1562946357.jpg?c=2

Posted

For those who have the wilderness cart what wheels are more versatile? I mostly launch at boat ramps which are often times very uneven and the occasional beach. No real long distance treks 

  • Super User
Posted
2 hours ago, Pogues2300 said:

For those who have the wilderness cart what wheels are more versatile? I mostly launch at boat ramps which are often times very uneven and the occasional beach. No real long distance treks 

They're pretty much all the same, unless you're traveling over soft sand often.  Then get the beach wheels, as they're wider and won't sink as deeply.   The narrower tires will be a bit easier to turn and navigate around obstacles.  But if you mainly travel across boat ramps, grass, and compacted sand, then I doubt you'll notice a difference either way.  

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.