Spinning guide recommendations

[digitalvoid]

 Somehow I ended up talking with a local guy who builds rods and now I'm in the process of ordering parts for a build. I'm going with a CRB FIS781ML. Going to be primarily used for smaller crankbaits, jerkbaits, or other smaller treble hook applications. I'm looking at the CRB SSR Match style kit, which seem to be a plain Jane kind of guide. Would it be better to get a medium or light duty kit? I just don't want there to be any issues. Thanks for your time. Tight lines 

[MickD]

First build will be a learning experience, so going with not-so-expensive components, or even a kit, makes sense.  I personally use all Fuji guides for spin, and they come in pretty inexpensive options.  I like the KLH series of guides, and using the KR software for the reduction guides and the two-line stress test for the runners, I always get a good rod.  Don't even test cast any more.  The info is at Anglersresource.net.  

 

Most factory rods fail due to poor handle/grip build process, usually skimping on epoxy.  Use generous epoxy and if you use reel seat arbors, use good ones or tightly wrapped masking tape totally encapsulated with epoxy.  If you do it right there never will be any water getting to the blank inside the grip/reel seat.  Here is another tip that many don't know about. https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

[Deleted account]

3 hours ago, digitalvoid said:

Spinning guide recommendations

 

Capt Dave Snellings of Piscataway Charters...

[digitalvoid]

3 minutes ago, Deleted account said:

 

Capt Dave Snellings of Piscataway Charters...

Either you didn't the thread or troll. 

[DaubsNU1]

I had to replace a few guides on my old Cabela's branded rods...found out they were Fuji. 

 

All of my rods were purchased in the 1990's....and are still going strong. The bait-casters have been running braid for almost 30 years...no issues. 

 

I would have no problem building rods with Fuji guides.  

[Chris Catignani]

4 hours ago, digitalvoid said:

 Would it be better to get a medium or light duty kit? I just don't want there to be any issues. 

The CRB SSR Match will do just fine...light duty will work.

[digitalvoid]

2 minutes ago, Chris Catignani said:

The CRB SSR Match will do just fine...light duty will work.

Ok. Are light and medium duty guides just stronger? They are built quite a bit different, that much I know. 

[MikeK]

Not sure what sizes are in the guide set.  For a 2500 size reel look for 20M, 10M, 6Y, multiple 5R to the tip.  I prefer a ceramic ring tip over the SSR.

[Chris Catignani]

6 minutes ago, digitalvoid said:

Ok. Are light and medium duty guides just stronger? They are built quite a bit different, that much I know. 

Yes...a little more beef. The light duty will be enough for bass.

[digitalvoid]

6 minutes ago, Chris Catignani said:

Yes...a little more beef. The light duty will be enough for bass.

Ok. I'm also wondering because of the price. the SSR Match guides are like 8 bucks and the light duty are like 30

[MickD]

The problem with using too "stout" guides is that they are heavier than necessary, and their weight will slow the response of a light power rod down, and cut its sensitivity.  And if they are not needed, one has compromised performance needlessly.  A medium-light power rod can get along nicely with just about any guides.  And because you likely will use light lines, they can be small (and light).  The Fuji site software uses reel sizes and line weights and types to size the guides.  

3 minutes ago, digitalvoid said:

Ok. I'm also wondering because of the price. the SSR Match guides are like 8 bucks and the light duty are like 30

You can get "light duty" guides at almost any price point.  

[digitalvoid]

10 minutes ago, MickD said:

The problem with using too "stout" guides is that they are heavier than necessary, and their weight will slow the response of a light power rod down, and cut its sensitivity.  And if they are not needed, one has compromised performance needlessly.  A medium-light power rod can get along nicely with just about any guides.  And because you likely will use light lines, they can be small (and light).  The Fuji site software uses reel sizes and line weights and types to size the guides.  

You can get "light duty" guides at almost any price point.  

I'm also just ordering from Mudhole to make things easier. The CRB SSR Match guide kits are not rated with a "duty". Actually, looking at it again it's probably just the difference in the series. The ones that are rated "light" and "medium" are from the LZR line of guides. 

[cyclops2]

In 70 years of fishing almost every spare minute I had. I did casting of big lures. MAYBE....  3 TIP ONLY guides wore line cutting grooves from 4# Mono. ALL were those S S tip guides. I replaced them ONLY.

 

Think about that statement.  ONLY the TIP guide takes almost all the forces.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

1 hour ago, MikeK said:

Not sure what sizes are in the guide set.  For a 2500 size reel look for 20M, 10M, 6Y, multiple 5R to the tip.  I prefer a ceramic ring tip over the SSR.

This system does not work well on all guide models. Extra high frame “match” guides at least or the original Fuji Kr. 

[MikeK]

1 hour ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

This system does not work well on all guide models. Extra high frame “match” guides at least or the original Fuji Kr. 

These sizes are for SSR guides.  M is match style, Y is typical NGC which makes nice transition, and R are single footy fly style.

[MickD]

5 hours ago, digitalvoid said:

The CRB SSR Match guide kits are not rated with a "duty".

Have you considered a kit for your first build?  The CRB kits come with lower, most likely lighter, running guides.  https://mudhole.com/collections/kits/products/crb-66-med-light-spinning-rod-kit-is661ml

[spoonplugger1]

The fish is not the concern when selecting a guide system, after all any fish simply bends the rod while fighting, and you in return pull on them. You therefore need a guide system that will hold up to the load the blank will take and survive being stored and transported also, in my mind this is every bit as important when selecting guides, if your rods get knocked around a lot go with a heavy duty guide system. G Loomis used match guides on their steelhead rods for decades, my GL3 rods are decades old and still going strong. The match guides were built by Pacific Bay, but Batson Rainshadow, Fuji, Seymo, Sea Guide, and many other have had this design since at least after WW II. The KR height guides are in no way new to Fuji, the Fleaweight series is in Dale Clemen's book published in the 80's.

[MickD]

My comments were not based on concern for the durability of the match guides.  I just personally think lower runners make more sense on rods like this.  As far as getting knocked around, lower is better, imho, they are out of the way more often.  

 

But this isn't world peace. Go with what you feel is best, build it, and fish it.  It will work, and you will develop opionions and skills and your next rod will be even better.  

[Chris Catignani]

@MickD  "...only pawn in game of life."

 

 

[MickD]

I love Mongo!  I remember the day that the Detroit Lions spent Thanksgiving Day in the GB Packers backfield.  And Mongo was leading the way.

[casts_by_fly]

16 hours ago, MickD said:

My comments were not based on concern for the durability of the match guides.  I just personally think lower runners make more sense on rods like this.  As far as getting knocked around, lower is better, imho, they are out of the way more often.  

 

But this isn't world peace. Go with what you feel is best, build it, and fish it.  It will work, and you will develop opionions and skills and your next rod will be even better.  

 

I'm of this position too.  I've done a few rods with match guides before there were other light options on the market.  I have a 9' 2-pc Lamiglas casting rod that I build as a steelhead/salmon float rod in roughly 2003.  I was living along lake Erie at the time and fishing the rivers 4-6 days per week most weeks.  To mix it up a bit (I already had fly, spinning, and centerpin rods) I did a baitcasting version.  It worked great but if I were to do it again I would definitely not use the match guides.  This rod was spiral wrapped with alconites on the transition and then match guides the rest.  I think size 5 alconites would have been a better choice then and now the worlds your oyster.  The match guides are delicate.  They bend out of shape easily in transport or catching on branches.  And, a size 3 match guide feels about the same overall weight to a lightweight #5 with the benefits of a larger ring and lower profile on the #5.

 

That said, I've used that rod for 'other' things as well including a couple north sea boat trips to fish wrecks.  I took that rod as a mackerel catcher with a medium shimano round reel and some 30# braid.  With a half ounce weight and a mackerel rig you could have some fun catching 12-18" mackerel up to 3-4 at a time.

 

thanks,

rick

 

[Alex from GA]

I've used the SSR guides on a few rods and for the first guide I use a match guide and maybe the 2nd then all the rest are #5s with a ceramic tip top.  I have grooved minima and SSR tip tops.