Deep cranking without specialty gear

[jdr99a]

Looks like I’m going to have an opportunity to get a couple of cracks at some deep cranking in this summer. It is not a technique I usually have the opportunity to fish and I’d rather not buy specialty gear for it if I’m only going to do it a handful of times. 
 

with that said, I’ve got a bunch of reels in the 6.8-8.5 range and rods from 7ft m/f cranking rods to 7-3 h/f worm rods and lots in between.

 

what generic setup would be most useful if I don’t spring for a dedicated deep cranking setup. 
 

for reference - my normal squarebill/lipless combo is a dobyns fury 705c with a 6.8 speed reel. 

[A-Jay]

Depends quite a  bit on the baits you throw.

Heavy large billed deep divers will tell you right away if your gear selection is something your comfortable with and can be demanding on angler and gear.

Smaller baits require less from both.

I prefer slow reels, long MH moderate rods and 12 lb FC.

Unless the fish are giants then the rod & the line get heavier. 

A-Jay

[Spankey]

I would go at it with what you have. Those 6.8 reels should do fine. Try to see if one of your rods has a softer tip than the other fast rods. Not all rods are created equal. Moderate or moderate fast would be nice but buy one sometime later. Not necessary to catch fish. Spool up with some Fluoro. and have at it.

[cyclops2]

I normally C & R large Carp, Fresh Water drum and several  + 40" pike each year. The 4# Mono & 6# Braided on different rods with a Mitchell handle them easily in open water.  6' 6" MH Fast tip rods.

Most on Rapalas.

[WRB]

Use your 705C/6.8 reel loaded with 13 lb Armillo.

You can troll if not tournament fishing. Casting and retrieving use a slower cranking retrieve and use the rod to change cadence by pulling forward and moving then moving back while continuing to crank slowly....worked for me with DD22’s.

Todays crank baits like Berkley Dredger series dive deep with less resistance.

Tom

[jdr99a]

Thanks all. I’ve got a couple of 10xds and 6th sense 500(500dd?) crankbaits that get down to 20-25 ft and weigh around 1-2 ounces if that makes a difference. 

[Phil77]

If you're going 20+ feet down do your body a favor and get a cheap 7-7'3 glass rod. Doesn't have to be fancy, but cranking that deep can get painful without a shock absorbing rod. I've been trolling dd22's for walleye for the last two weeks and occasionally fishing it near humps with an Ike Delay 7'6M I picked up used. It hardly feels like a deep crank on that rod and I'm not ready for a nap and some arthritis cream at the end of the day. The gear you have will work but will wear you out quick. I've had better luck in 20+ ft with a 3/4 Tokyo rigged paddle tail or a 3/4 swim jig with a 5 inch spark shad but that's a whole different thread.

[Dwight Hottle]

Like Tom suggested it's a lot easier to troll a 10XD than to cast & retrieve it for hours.  

[roadwarrior]

Whatever you are using as your jig rod will be alright. If you decide to crank a lot you

need a rod for lighter lures and another for heavy deep divers.

[Dens228]

I use the rod/reel combo that I normally use for swim jigs and chatterbaits.  M/H fast MB SpecR with a Diawa Tatula Elite 6.3:1.   

[masterbaiter9117]

10xd needs a deep crank rod 8xd you can get away with a little lighter setup

[Deleted account]

On 3/18/2022 at 5:27 PM, roadwarrior said:

Whatever you are using as your jig rod will be alright. If you decide to crank a lot you

need a rod for lighter lures and another for heavy deep divers.

Some of my older telescoping flipping sticks do an ok job with deep cranking in a pinch, light inshore salt water too...