tale Posted March 15, 2022 Posted March 15, 2022 I've got a 1989 Astroglass 16' bass boat. I can see that there are rotted stringer supports in places. It appears that I can remove the rope around the outside and then unscrew the top half from the bottom half. I know I'll need to take the outboard off and unhook the wiring. I'm curious how big of a job this is going to be to separate the top from the bottom? I don't have a workshop with a winch, so I'm hoping that I can get 4 guys to pick up the top and move it off the bottom so I can repair the stringers. I know this is impossible to know for sure, but do y'all think that will be possible? How much do you think the top of the boat will weigh? Here are some photos of the boat. It's running great now, so this spring the goal is to make it pretty. I'm hoping I can wait until the fall to pull it apart and fix these supports. https://photos.app.goo.gl/k6XJhD5JuS46feFb8 Thanks, Trey Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted March 15, 2022 Super User Posted March 15, 2022 A lot more involved than that. The cap is going to be attached to the floor, either screwed or glassed or both, so that will have to be separated. Before you take the cap off, you have to support the hull, very good. When you remove the cap, the sides are going to move out some. You take the floor out to get to the stringers, and when you do, the hull is going to spead out more. When you glass the new floor in and If not supported well, the cap "WILL NOT" fit back on the hull. Also, if not supported extremely well, you will have one very ill handling boat because the hull is going to twist and move all out of shape, if you do manage to get the cap back on. If that bad, you will most likely find the transom is rotted also and need to replace it. In all probability, you are going to need some arms and hoist to lift the cap off. They usually have straps glassed in in several areas and just taking the rub rail off and screws out is not all that's needed to get it off. The cap can weigh 200 to 300 pounds. I have seen whole boats being held up by the cap and left overnight hoping that will pull it loose from the hull. Just depends on the boat and how they attached the cap. Quote
tale Posted March 15, 2022 Author Posted March 15, 2022 That is really good to know. You said that the hull needs to be supported really well. What type of supports are typically used? Are you talking about the hard supports that they use to support larger boats or sail boats when they dry dock them? What would you suggest I do with the boat? I bought this boat as a project in fall of 2020. It's been fun figuring out how to fix all of the little issues. Like I said before, it runs well. The transom doesn't appear to be rotted. It doesn't move when I push hard on it back and forth. I've got a little under $2500 in the boat. I'm wondering if I can just continue to use it for several years in its current shape? I'm not sure what to expect of a bass boat that has rotted stringers. Am I risking a catastrophic failure? I've seen some plywood that delaminated and fell into the center storage area. I assume that was part of the floor. Then when I open the center floor hatch, I can look to one side and see that the fiberglass isn't completely covering one of the stringer supports. Where I can see wood it is possible for me to pull it apart with my fingers. Thank you for the insight into this project. I'm trying to do my homework before I start something this big. If you have any sites that document a project like this, then I would be interested in reading more. I haven't found a lot how-to videos on youtube. Just several guys that started and never finished. Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted March 15, 2022 Super User Posted March 15, 2022 I generally make a sand bed to slide it off the trailer into then work then sand in underneath it. Then put a couple of 4x4 post on each side to attach braces to go against the side of the hull. I have seen 4x4 used to sit it on and 2x4 attached to them against the bottom and sides. Basically making a frame for the bottom and sides in about three locations. The way to check the transom is to trim the motor all the way up, then stand on the mid section and bounce up and down. If the transom does not flex or move, it's probably good. For what it cost in materials today, and time, you had better have a special connection to that boat, because you will probably have more invested in it than it would be worth when done. If it's usable, don't matter how ugly it is, use it to get your nickels worth out of it. I have a 17' Stratos I have plans on restoring that's going to need everything, basically it will be a new boat when done, but that one was my dads and I'm doing it to give to my granddaughter. She has a lot of fond memories of fishing with her gramps out of that boat. If it were not for that, you couldn't pay me enough to do it. You just don't realize how much work and discomfort messing with all that fiberglass is going to be. Get you some Tyvek suits and respirator, you will need them. As for how safe it is, sounds like it's rotted pretty good. I would not be trying to run full speed across wakes and in rough water, where you hit the water hard enough it makes your eyeballs bounce. Quote
Global Moderator TnRiver46 Posted March 15, 2022 Global Moderator Posted March 15, 2022 And get tyvek that’s way too big, I typically rip mine within 5 minutes of putting it on Quote
VolFan Posted March 16, 2022 Posted March 16, 2022 5 minutes? I rip it duct taping my boots before I’m even zipped up! 1 Quote
Super User WRB Posted March 17, 2022 Super User Posted March 17, 2022 Dry rot wood under fiberglass requires cutting the fiberglass away completelyto replace the wood. The transom is more then likely dry rotted if the stringers are. When you get done cutting away the transom, the stringers the hull may not be worth saving. My advice is cut your loses, save the engine and everything you added and look for another boat without a engine that fits your trailer. Tom PS, to lift the engine off the transom you can use a eye bolt screwed into the fly wheel on top, lower the trailer tongue all the down to raise the transom/engine up. Using a strong strap through the eye bolt attached to a strong garage rafter, raise the trailer by cranking the trailer wheel up, the transom lowered lifting the engine off. A good pulley is easier, but this method works. Quote
tale Posted March 18, 2022 Author Posted March 18, 2022 Thanks for all the advice. I think cutting my losses would probably be the best course of action. I've enjoyed playing with the boat and learning, so I think it was a positive experience. 1 Quote
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