Removing Components from Broken Rod

[Logan S]

Hi All,

 

I know a lot of people don't go through this trouble because it's not worth it...But I unfortunately broke a Megabass Valkyrie rod which is JDM and I got used, so no warranty - I'd hate for this thing to just be a waste so I'm looking at removing the reel seat, lock nut, guides, and maybe even the grip/handle if possible and put it on a new blank.  A buddy of mine gave me this idea because he did the same thing with a broken (out of warranty) Megabass rod and he's given me some tips already, but I wanted to check with the experts also.  

 

I already know it's not cost effective - This is a project I want to do just for fun and to learn how to do it.  

 

You guys have helped me in the past removing a hook keeper by heating it up and cutting the threads, so I'm assuming I can do the same thing for the guides on this rod.  I was more worried about the reel seat, handle, etc.  The Valkyrie has the adjustable handle, where it twists to lock/unlock and then you can adjust the length...I don't think I'll be able to salvage any of that.  

 

Thanks!

 

[Chris Catignani]

I have this one thing I've done before....

I had a guy give me a bunch of broke rods once.

1: I took and sawed off the rod about 10 inches above the reel seat...keeping the logo etc...

You will need to cut off the butt cap.

I then just took another blank and slid the old handle over it.

 

 

2: The other method is to just cut everything away.

If you take a razor blade (of sharp knife) cut the guide from the end of the guide foot toward the guide ring and just slice the thread off the top of the guide foot...then it will just come off.

The handle is a crap shoot. I would just cut away the rear grip and see if the reel seat will break loose. Sometimes they do! (You could also try packing it in dry ice and seeing if it will break loose).

If its glued in there pretty good....you can just cut it off the blank...at the back and at the front...and believe it or not...you can actually ream out the old blank...and you may get lucky and your next blank may just fit it perfect.

[A-Jay]

The only components I'll retain is the guide train

and that's only if it's it most perfect condition.

Not sure I'd be able to 're-use' much of the rest.

Don't possess the experience or skill for that that deal.

I do use an old rod section hacked up just past the handle

to strip or add line in the tackle room.

Good Luck

A-Jay

 

 

[Deleted account]

The guides are easy enough with a razor blade or exacto knife, the handle components are a little more tricky, but not overly difficult. Cut them off with a little extra blank on each end, and ream or drill out as required.

[MickD]

How about a photo of the failure?  Might help with ideas.

[S Hovanec]

I found an even easier way to strip guides than a razor blade.  I chuck up a rotozip bit in my Dremel.  Just run the bit across the top of the guide foot.  You can strip every guide in less than a minute. 

 

Reel seats are fairly easy also since you're not trying to salvage the blank. Just cut the seat off, chuck it in a lathe and bore out the blank.

[Dwight Hottle]

50 minutes ago, S Hovanec said:

I found an even easier way to strip guides than a razor blade.  I chuck up a rotozip bit in my Dremel.  Just run the bit across the top of the guide foot.  You can strip every guide in less than a minute. 

 

Reel seats are fairly easy also since you're not trying to salvage the blank. Just cut the seat off, chuck it in a lathe and bore out the blank.

 

And there is the answer from a professional builder. 

[Logan S]

Thanks for the replies.  

 

3 hours ago, MickD said:

How about a photo of the failure?  Might help with ideas.

The break is 2 guides down from the tip.

 

To be clear, I'm not trying to save the blank... I know it's a little silly to try to save the components of the broken rod, it's just something I want to try for my own little project. I'd purchase a new blank and any additional components I might need.

 

Thanks again everyone.

[MickD]

Just so you know, with that kind of a  break, you can fix the blank so that it will fish well.  If interested, respond.  It will have an appearance change, but the action and power should have no significant changes.

 

[Chris Catignani]

@MickD is right...it may be worth a try. I bet I have fixed about a dozen or so breaks.

If it doesnt work like you want...you always have plan B.

Here is a link to an article by Ralph O'Quinn...he taught me how to do it.

Rod Repair by Ralph O'Quinn

[casts_by_fly]

You’ve got all of the right replies above. If you love the rod and it’s unique, then a splice can work well.  The action of the rod will dictate it a little. If it’s a high flex area it works less well. Second guide down might be tough, but it’s worth a shot. I’ve done a couple fly rods with quick tips and it works.

 

if you want to keep the grips and seat, then cutting and splicing a new blank inside works great. This works great if you love a grip and seat but want to try a new blank.

 

worst case strip it down. If you don’t have a lathe or reamer like Scott suggested, you can usually boil the seat and that breaks the glue enough to pop it loose. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

You’ve gotten the straight scoop here. Proceed as you see fit with confidence.