What lb test for fluorocarbon on casting for cranking - Tatsu

[clemsondds]

Had three rods setup this past Monday for cranking...two had tatsu and one had abrazx.  Had no backlash with tatsu and several with abrazx.  Could have been me but I'm going to switch to tatsu for everything since it makes life easier.  I have a ton of 10lb test someone gave me...is that sufficient for cranking?  Or should I buy some 15lb?  Any thoughts?  What's your rational for picking the lb test?  Depth?  Thanks

[Team9nine]

For all around mid- to deep cranking, I prefer 12lb. I base that decision on diameter. I will use 10# at times for finesse or some deep cranking, just like I’ll also use 15# when pushing more shallow squarebill type stuff.

[EWREX]

i don't do much deep cranking, but for shallow to medium divers i use 12lb.

[Bankc]

10# is sufficient.  I've gone as low as 6#.  There are always tradeoffs, and which is best is going to depend on a whole host of factors.  But since you already have the 10# stuff handy, I'd go with that until you find a reason to switch it up.  

[clemsondds]

Ok thank you!  Anyone have any negative experiences with 10lb...I assume you want a little thicker diameter when using squarebills for abrasion resistance? 

[fishballer06]

I like 15lb when using squarebills because they're going to be banging against rocks and wood. Plus I'm usually not worried about getting them down as deep as traditional long billed crankbaits. 

 

As for using 10lb, I only like using that for jerkbaits when in open water. 

[Hook2Jaw]

I have four cranking setups, and each of them have a designated task and line size.  The first is my ⅜-¾ ounce cranking rod, and since it sometimes throws a squarebill I rock 12# fluorocarbon on it.  The second is dedicated to small, deep diving crankbaits; 3XDs and the like.  It has 10# test on it because those cranks just don't cast well and bottom contact is absolutely key for me.  The third is my deep cranking rod, and I run 14# on it because those #2 hooks need a little more oomph on the sweep-set.  The last is my ½ ounce squarebill rod, which rocks 16# fluorocarbon for beating wood and rock.

[clemsondds]

On 3/9/2022 at 12:09 PM, Hook2Jaw said:

I have four cranking setups, and each of them have a designated task and line size.  The first is my ⅜-¾ ounce cranking rod, and since it sometimes throws a squarebill I rock 12# fluorocarbon on it.  The second is dedicated to small, deep diving crankbaits; 3XDs and the like.  It has 10# test on it because those cranks just don't cast well and bottom contact is absolutely key for me.  The third is my deep cranking rod, and I run 14# on it because those #2 hooks need a little more oomph on the sweep-set.  The last is my ½ ounce squarebill rod, which rocks 16# fluorocarbon for beating wood and rock.

Wow that is pretty intense!  props to you for having a great system!  I'm sure you cringed  when I was looking to go down to just one line for everything ha.  

 

Any other thoughts?  Anyone have any examples of where 10lb was not good for them and broke off?   Just curious if it's mostly in our heads that 15lb is significantly more durable than 10lb... I don't mind getting both...just trying to organize my fishing gear and make it more functional