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Posted

I have had a problem with my trailer lights since I got my boat.  Inevitably, after 1 or 2 trips, the turn/brake light bulbs burn out.  I spent a couple hours two weekends ago pulling the lights apart and getting new bulbs in them.  First trip to the lake, bam, the bulbs are toast again.

Now it's not hard for me to figure out what the problem is.  The 'waterproof' inner housings are leaking.  One of the bulbs had so much corrosion on it that I had to crush the bulb glass and use needle nose pliers to remove the terminal end. 

I just ordered a whole new set of lights from BPS but my question is this:  Do these inner housings lose their watertight seal if you take them apart?  I see there is a rubber gasket around the housing but it apparently is not enough to keep water out.  Is this normal?  This is my first boat so this is new to me.  It doesn't seem to me that water that isn't under pressure should be able to get by that gasket but it obviously is.

Posted

My lights that I just replaced where actually vented on the bottom to drain water away. You can try some electrical grease on the bulb sockets to help with the corrosion or you can do what I did this spring....replace them suckers with sealed LED units.

Posted

I went with submersible LED's @ wallyworld and never looked back.  Just don't the have time to fiddle around with blown bulbs, corrosion, and leaking issues. 

Posted
This might sound like a dumb question....Do you unplug the trailer lights before putting trailer in the water?

It's not a dumb question.  I do not unplug them.  While this is my first boat of my own, I've been around them most of my life (my dad has always had at least 2 boats for as long as I can remember) and I don't remember ever having to unplug them prior to backing in so that's why I don't.

Posted
I went with submersible LED's @ wallyworld and never looked back. Just don't the have time to fiddle around with blown bulbs, corrosion, and leaking issues.

Our Wal-marts don't have trailer lights.  Most New Mexicans don't care whether or not their trailer lights work (if they even have trailer lights :))

Posted

Try unplugging them before u put trailer in the water and leave them unplugged until u have loaded the boat and are ready to take off....I bet it will help your situation. I don't know if everybody practices this ritual, but thats the way i was taught and I havent had any trouble with blowing bulbs.

Good luck

Posted

Yeah TrackerG, that's what I intend to do until my new light kit arrives.  I may just keep doing that after I install the new ones too.  Small price to pay to eliminate the headaches.

  • Super User
Posted

Most regular lights (non-LED) are submersible, not waterproof. I think that means they are not water soluble ::). After years of aggravation, I finally replaced them with LED lights.

  • Super User
Posted

It's not too late to return the lights you ordered and purchase a set of LED's.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324545_200324545

Purchased a set of these in April 2006.  Installed on trailer, used all that year.  Moved to another trailer in the winter of 06, they're still on that trailer and work as good as they did when I bought them.

Posted

Ben there, done that. Using the brakes as your backing the trailer in heats your bulbs.The water hits them and many times they are a goner. Unplug them before you launch. Re-plug them in when boat is back on the trailer, everything is tied down and your ready to take off.

   Good luck

  • Super User
Posted

Led's are the way to go. Another bonus is they draw less amps. Win win.

Posted

Sealed light fixtures with bulbs will destroy bulbs if they leak. If the hole is in the top, the light will fill with water but the water will not have a way to drain out. The bulb is immersed in water for a longer time. They will corrode quickly and burn up quicker. Unplugging them will not solve the problem.

The cheap solution is to buy the cheep lights that are not sealed. They have a drain hole in the bottom. Take out the bulbs and coat the light sockets with dielectric grease or silicone grease. I did this on my last boat trailer and the lights worked fine for 5 years.

The costlier solution is to buy LED lights. They will not leak and will last for a long time. They will continue to get cheeper over time.

Posted

I currently have 2 boats/trailers. One has individual replaceable bulbs within the red lens housing. These blow every time that they go in the water without unplugging from the tow vehicle.

The other rig has sealed light assemblies within the red lens housing that contain multiple bulbs. This rig can go in and out of water without unplugging. But the entire assembly must be replaced when a bulb does go.

Posted

I think I will look into getting some of those LED lights.  Seems to be the best way to go but BPS didn't have the ones that fit my trailer.  I'm wondering if I return the standard ones I ordered if they will refund my bonus points that I used to buy them.

Posted

I just used regular trailer lights, no waterproofing. I mounted them on a 2X4 along with the trailer license plate. It has a 30 ft flexible cable that plugs into the truck so there is no wiring on the trailer.

On my boat I had a rudder so the rudder was pulled out and a pin on the 2X4 held it in place when driving. An extra hole drilled in the trailer held it there if running without the boat.

When you get to the ramp, just take everything off and put it in the back of the truck.

Posted

Well I came home from work yesterday and the lights from BPS were on my front porch so, deciding I'd rather save my money for tackle, I put them on today.  I'm going to go with unplugging them for now and see how that works but I will definitely be getting the LEDs on the next set.

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