Line for a swimbait rod

[AManWearingAHat]

Simple question. Have a dedicated casting set up for swimbaits now. 7'1" MH/F that is going to be 100% dedicated to single hook moving baits. I have two spools of power pro sitting around. A 40# (10lb ED) and a 65# (16lb ED). Planning on fishing with a Fluoroleader because clear water. Which diameter would you spool up and why. I was thinking the 40# for less line resistance but figured I'd poll the brain trust

[A-Jay]

What reel ?

A-Jay

[softwateronly]

 

 

37 minutes ago, AManWearingAHat said:

Simple question. Have a dedicated casting set up for swimbaits now. 7'1" MH/F that is going to be 100% dedicated to single hook moving baits. I have two spools of power pro sitting around. A 40# (10lb ED) and a 65# (16lb ED). Planning on fishing with a Fluoroleader because clear water. Which diameter would you spool up and why. I was thinking the 40# for less line resistance but figured I'd poll the brain trust

I think @A-Jay has the right question.  I would lean toward 40# because I have mostly 150 sized reels and w/ a MH/F it seems like a good pairing.  Clear water has me prioritizing casting distance.  If dragging a trash fish through the salad, 65lb might cut through it better.

 

scott

[AManWearingAHat]

Sorry, dumb of me to leave out. Reel is a Daiwa Tatula TWS SV, 6.3:1

[Deleted account]

What size and weight?

[A-Jay]

18 minutes ago, AManWearingAHat said:

Sorry, dumb of me to leave out. Reel is a Daiwa Tatula TWS SV, 6.3:1

 

I don't have that reel but the published line capacity for it is 14/100, 16/90.

Regardless of which line you select, 

"40# (10lb ED) and a 65# (16lb ED)"

A good cast with almost any swimbait over an ounce, 

will not leave you much in the way of line left or IPT (inches per turn)

as the spool diameter will be pretty small at that point.

This becomes a concern if & when the fish you're looking to catch,

strikes way out on the end of the cast.

If the fish comes at you, catching up with her to get the hook in or even keep it in can get a little dicey.  

IMO, a MH rod and a that size reel is mostly suited to fairly small swimbaits at best.

Most 'swimbaiters' use gear that can & will present larger baits effectively

and reels with a bit more line capacity; for the reason noted above.

A-Jay

 

[PhishLI]

17 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

I don't have that reel but the published line capacity for it is 14/100, 16/90.

AJ

 

I have that reel, and normally I'd agree with you and wouldn't think of using it myself for this application. However, I've been watching Milliken on YT chucking huge A-Rigs on a long H rod using that reel and catching giant bass all year long. Go figure. The OP certainly won't be throwing 2oz baits on a 7'1" MH, so he might be just fine with the baits he'll be able to throw on it.

[garroyo130]

paddletail swimbaits?

[PressuredFishing]

Monofilament or florocarbon, 12-15lb depending on how heavy the gauge of the wire hook is.

[A-Jay]

25 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

AJ

 

I have that reel, and normally I'd agree with you and wouldn't think of using it myself for this application. However, I've been watching Milliken on YT chucking huge A-Rigs on a long H rod using that reel and catching giant bass all year long. Go figure. The OP certainly won't be throwing 2oz baits on a 7'1" MH, so he might be just fine with the baits he'll be able to throw on it.

I can agree that there's any number of ways to catch giant bass.

Haven't viewed any Milliken on YT, however in my world

A-Rigs & Swimbaits are not fished on the same gear.

Swimbaits for big largemouth are presented with a 300 size reel,

(Calcutta D or Tranx) filled with 20-25 lb FC, mounted on a H rod.

These fish are hard to hook, fight and finally put in the net, undersized gear will not help.

 

A-Jay

 

[AManWearingAHat]

Size wise on this set up I top out on 5" Paddle tails usually rigged on flashy swimmers or weighted 5/0 EWG hooks

Im not hocking anything like the giant 2 ouncers or A-Rigs or anything like that. 

[A-Jay]

15 minutes ago, AManWearingAHat said:

Size wise on this set up I top out on 5" Paddle tails usually rigged on flashy swimmers or weighted 5/0 EWG hooks

Im not hocking anything like the giant 2 ouncers or A-Rigs or anything like that. 

40 lb braid on your rig should be effective,

unless you're in super slop then the 65 might be called for.

A-Jay

[WRB]

Hmmm...7’1” MHF w/ 100 size bait casting reel being used for Swimbaits. Today “swimbaits” range from 2.8 Kietechs to 10” Hudds. The MHF rod referenced rated to 1 oz or 1 1/4 oz lures would limit “swimbaits” to lures under 1 1/2 oz max. 

The simply needs to be compatible to the cover/structure being fished. No reason for line over 15 lb test mono, Copolymer or FC or braid exceeding 40 lbs.

Tom

[PhishLI]

3 hours ago, A-Jay said:

in my world

A-Rigs & Swimbaits are not fished on the same gear.

Mine either. The OP's 7'1" kinda eliminated that possibility anyway. Just pointing out a real world line cap example and this reel.

49 minutes ago, AManWearingAHat said:

Size wise on this set up I top out on 5" Paddle tails usually rigged on flashy swimmers or weighted 5/0 EWG hooks

Skip the braid and go to straight 17lb Copolymer or Fluoro. There will be no difference between the two types regarding invisibility at the diameter of that pound test. Your less than 6' leader will get eaten up quickly with lure changes. That reel will not pass a leader knot well with larger diameter line.

[AManWearingAHat]

Why opt for Fluoro / CoPoly over Braid? I had read braid is preferred for moving baits due to tight line sensitivity, and Fluoro for bottom contact / slack line sensitivity? 

[softwateronly]

2 hours ago, PhishLI said:

Mine either. The OP's 7'1" kinda eliminated that possibility anyway. Just pointing out a real world line cap example and this reel.

Skip the braid and go to straight 17lb Copolymer or Fluoro. There will be no difference between the two types regarding invisibility at the diameter of that pound test. Your less than 6' leader will get eaten up quickly with lure changes. That reel will not pass a leader knot well with larger diameter line.

I have a Tat 200 and Tat 300, the rest are shimanos.  What are we looking at to get through the sub 300 size T-wing w/ an fg knot?  I haven't really experimented with the 200 enough myself.  

 

.32mm co-poly/mono/floro wrapped w/ .32mm braid?

.32mm co-poly/mono/floro wrapped w/ .28mm braid?

 

scott

 

2 minutes ago, AManWearingAHat said:

Why opt for Fluoro / CoPoly over Braid? I had read braid is preferred for moving baits due to tight line sensitivity, and Fluoro for bottom contact / slack line sensitivity? 

These are some people's preferences, definitely not absolutes.  The T-wing is your limiting factor for playing to the strengths of braid to leader with the least amount of hassle.

 

scott

[AManWearingAHat]

Got it. Thanks for the help everyone. I have fished a similar combo before with straight fluoro and had good luck. Maybe Ill just stick with that and skip the leader knots all together. 

Ive got the line anyway, I can always try down the road.

[PhishLI]

3 minutes ago, softwateronly said:

I have a Tat 200 and Tat 300, the rest are shimanos.  What are we looking at to get through the sub 300 size T-wing w/ an fg knot?  I haven't really experimented with the 200 enough myself.  

I always go straight whatever on the 200, but the 300 has an enlarged guide over standard sized T wings. It's not guaranteed to be a problem with the Tat SV each time, but the knot can hang sometimes. Enough to be annoying, especially with heavier lines.

[softwateronly]

2 minutes ago, AManWearingAHat said:

Got it. Thanks for the help everyone. I have fished a similar combo before with straight fluoro and had good luck. Maybe Ill just stick with that and skip the leader knots all together. 

Ive got the line anyway, I can always try down the road.

You could easily go straight braid.  I fish clear water and don't think there's any such thing as line shy on moving baits.

 

scott

1 minute ago, PhishLI said:

I always go straight whatever on the 200, but the 300 has an enlarged guide over standard sized T wings. It's not guaranteed to be a problem with the Tat SV each time, but the knot can hang sometimes. Enough to be annoying, especially with heavier lines.

Yes, I definitely know it.  My 200 is straight braid and hasn't changed.  I know some diawa user on here is braid to leader but I can't recall who and what they use.

 

scott

[PhishLI]

3 minutes ago, AManWearingAHat said:

Maybe Ill just stick with that and skip the leader knots all together. 

Good Move. It's not like you'll be making monster bomb casts anyway. Also, that reel can be a little sensitive to hard stop backlashes with braid when you're the running brakes on the hairy low end. This can happen with any reel, but the inductor ramp dogs like to shear on the Tat SV. It won't happen with nylon/fluoro lines though.

[AManWearingAHat]

4 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Good Move. It's not like you'll be making monster bomb casts anyway. Also, that reel can be a little sensitive to hard stop backlashes with braid when you're the running brakes on the hairy low end. This can happen with any reel, but the inductor ramp dogs like to shear on the Tat SV. It won't happen with nylon/fluoro lines though.

I was unaware of that. Good to know. I have two others that I run with straight Fluoro and have mostly eliminated backlashing from my cast. Why mess with success?