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Posted

Not sure if I put too much pressure on the top face plate while screwing back in the sideplate after cleaning or I used too much pressure screwing it in, but I broke the top screw of the sideplate.

 

The break leaves the thread portion in the frame of the reel.i removed the sideplate trying to get the thread portion out, but it's flush so I can't grip anything.

 

I am sure I can find a screw at a local hardware or hobby store, but I need to get the threaded portion out first. It's a Curado 71 MGL HG. Everything seems fine when reassembled, it's just there are only 3 screws securing the sideplate, missing the top outer portion. My OCD will not allow for this :) Any ideas? Bonus points if you happen to know the screw size for part No. BNT6669 Checked Shimano's part store and the part has been discontinued???

IMG_20220212_202043187~2.jpg

  • Super User
Posted

Ive had to remove something similar for people. You need a fine drill bit to tap a hole on the top of the screw enough for a grip. You can use a screw extractor to back it out of even a phillips head if you go deep enough. Its not terribly difficult  

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Posted
2 hours ago, LCG said:

I broke the top screw of the sideplate.

 

2 hours ago, LCG said:

i removed the sideplate trying to get the thread portion out, but it's flush so I can't grip anything.

If you didn't cross thread it when you were turning the screw it should've turned easily until the shoulder of the screw head bottomed against the frame. Therefore, the broken portion of the screw should be sitting in the frame somewhat loosely. If that's the case take a small pick, center it on the broken screw, then check to see if there's slight side-to-side movement in the frame. If there is, report back and I'll give you a 1st option that doesn't involve drills and extractors.

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Posted

I doubt there is a screw extractor bit that small. You may be able to find small left-handed drill bit that would fit. It's pretty much the same thing. That's what I used to remove a damaged small screw on a reel handle.

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  • Super User
Posted

I suspect it will spin out with a small enough drill bit and the drill motor reversed,

When the head is broken off the screw, there's no tension on the remaining thread shank. 

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Posted
2 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

I suspect it will spin out with a small enough drill bit and the drill motor reversed,

When the head is broken off the screw, there's no tension on the remaining thread shank. 

That's one option, but the chance of a novice pulling this off is slight using a hand held drill gun with a bit that small in diameter without it walking off the shank's face and into the frame, especially in a one-off situation. No reps. Might be tricky to even make a centering mark first having not done it before. Ideally, a simple shouldered drill bushing made to fit into the side plate's counterbore loosely but precisely into its through hole would be nearly foolproof. Personally I'd use the drill bit in a variable speed Dremel. Way easier to keep it square to the frame. Either way, if there's drilling involved the whole shebang needs to be meticulously masked to keep drilling fines out of the machinery.

 

However, there are other options if the screw isn't cross threaded or blue Loctite isn't holding it from turning freely.

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Posted

Add layers of tape above the broken screw and as you add a layer, poke a hole to reveal only the broken screw. Then as mentioned above, take a tiny drill bit and get to work.

 

My guess though is its cross threaded.

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Posted

First and foremost thank you to all the people who responded with tips. Much appreciated.

 

I am not the handiest guy in the world, but I am stubborn :) After a few adult beverages and a good night sleep, I re-examined the situation. Turns out after I removed the top/nose face plate cover, I had the tiniest bit of screw showing. Originally I never thought to remove the face plate. Used a pair of tweasers and a ton of patience / time to finally remove it. Screw not cross threaded or broken at the tip, just sheared off, probably my fault.

 

Now to find a replacement screw. Thanks again everyone. 

IMG_20220213_105952349_HDR~2.jpg

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Posted
5 minutes ago, LCG said:

Screw not cross threaded or broken at the tip, just sheared off, probably my fault.

Nice!

Posted
12 minutes ago, LCG said:

Screw not cross threaded or broken at the tip, just sheared off, probably my fault.

 

A bit of a shock considering a graphite side plate. Since that's the case, I'd probably reach out to Shimano since it seems like a defect.

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Posted
1 minute ago, FishTank said:

like a $200 game of Operation

 

Yep, that's a pretty accurate analogy :) except here in Canada it's more like $375 (our dollar sucks, inflation, taxes). I was able to remove the broken screw as mentioned above, so the big problem is solved, now to track down the discontinued part number which may require a direct call to Shimano, see if they can help a brother out. 

  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, LCG said:

so the big problem is solved, now to track down the discontinued part number

Getting that screw will not be a problem at all. You might even be able to get one at a quality hardware store nearby. You weirdos up there use the metric system, Aye?

Posted
1 hour ago, PhishLI said:

You weirdos up there use the metric system, Aye?

Oddly, we use both imperial and metric, even though our official unit of measurement is metric. But we have good beer :)

 

 

canadian-geese-eh.webp

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Posted

I'm sure all reels use the same size screws.  Don't you have a junk reel or two, try a screw from it.

  • Super User
Posted

Don Isaac at ReelEx maybe able to fix this.

Tom

Posted
8 minutes ago, Alex from GA said:

I'm sure all reels use the same size screws.  Don't you have a junk reel or two, try a screw from it.

No unfortunately I don't have any junk reels. I have a few spare parts, but the screws I have are all too short. I will just give Shimano a shout and see what they can find me.

Posted

Hands down, this is the tool that has saved my bacon too many times to count for jobs just like this one. Way better than vise grips, much to my surprise. Basically, a 4" or 4.5" pair of channellocks. I call them 'my little darlins'.

Ignition Pliers_001.jpg

  • Super User
Posted
21 hours ago, garroyo130 said:

 

A bit of a shock considering a graphite side plate. Since that's the case, I'd probably reach out to Shimano since it seems like a defect.

Snapped off screws are not defects. 

  • Super User
Posted
On 2/13/2022 at 11:23 AM, garroyo130 said:

reach out to Shimano since it seems like a defect.

LOL.

That's what a lot of DIY bicycle mechanics come into the shop saying. Chances of that screw being "defective" is remote at best. They don't cost much either way. 

Posted

I called Shimano today and they are sending me a replacement screw, they are just trying to find the substitute part number as the one in the schematic is discontinued. Looking at the reel schematics, I think I had too much pressure on the top face plate that the screw goes into (sideplate,then face plate and into frame). Live and learn. Thanks again to all the members here and Shimano was very pleasant to deal with.

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Posted

That's much better than using a hardware store screw. 

Next to impossible to find a truss head on a metric screw here. 

It's probably a 2 mm or 2.5 mm screw, aluminum alloy, and standard lengths for Shimano frame screws are 5 mm, 6 mm, and 8 mm.  It would be cheap enough to buy a gang of different stainless panheads to find the right screw thread and length from Bolt Depot ($0.08 ea), but you wouldn't get the correct screw head, and would have to use a washer. 

This is mainly why I didn't chime-in to make the suggestion. 

 

Posted
13 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

That's much better than using a hardware store screw. 

I envisioned hours spent at numerous hardware stores and it's just not worth the time or frustration. Easier to call the manufacturer. Even if they charge shipping, it's worth it to me and my sanity :)

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