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Posted

Poles and spotlock are great, but also pretty obvious ;)...

 

It's often overlooked, but having larger gauge, direct wiring for your graphs is well worth the effort.  Even if your boat is new or newer, factory wiring is usually inadequate - especially for the larger screens and multiple units that are now more common.  The units will be faster, have less interference, have no voltage drop, and (at least for me) produce better images from SI/DI.  You can buy premade harnesses but they are pricey, I made my own with a spool of 10GA marine wire and good connectors with fuses for a fraction of the retail prices on the pre-made ones.  

 

Tools are good as well, but specifically a multimeter, some extra wire/connectors/tape, wire stripper/crimper, and cable ties...In addition to the normal hand tools.  So many systems in the boat are electrical, but many do not carry anything to diagnose or fix electrical issues.  

Posted

I like having multiple sets of pliers and scissors

One set near the console and the other set near the front deck.

I also found a plastic container that keeps my extra roll of tp dry

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Posted
19 hours ago, SRQAlex said:

What are the things on your boat that aren’t obvious but make your life easier?

 

 

20210426_061027.jpg

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Posted
38 minutes ago, Catt said:

 

 

20210426_061027.jpg

 Bingo! Never leave home without your “mountain money” as we call it 

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Posted
2 hours ago, Logan S said:

Poles and spotlock are great, but also pretty obvious ;)...

 

It's often overlooked, but having larger gauge, direct wiring for your graphs is well worth the effort.  Even if your boat is new or newer, factory wiring is usually inadequate - especially for the larger screens and multiple units that are now more common.  The units will be faster, have less interference, have no voltage drop, and (at least for me) produce better images from SI/DI.  You can buy premade harnesses but they are pricey, I made my own with a spool of 10GA marine wire and good connectors with fuses for a fraction of the retail prices on the pre-made ones.  

 

Tools are good as well, but specifically a multimeter, some extra wire/connectors/tape, wire stripper/crimper, and cable ties...In addition to the normal hand tools.  So many systems in the boat are electrical, but many do not carry anything to diagnose or fix electrical issues.  

This is all good advice.  Though I think that 10GA is a bit excessive for a fish finder.  I'd look more to 16-14GA.  Most fish finders don't pull much more than 2 amps.  But nothing wrong with going over, so long as you don't get ridiculous.  

 

And the multimeter can be really helpful.  Just a cheap one will be fine.  And put a lithium battery in it (not lithium ion rechargeable, but something like an Energizer lithium).  Two reasons.  One, they last longer.  I've had some that lasted for 15 years.  And two, they don't leak.  That way you know the DMM will be working when you need it, which will probably be very rarely.  

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Posted

Installing steps on my trailer.  I had major back surgery about a year ago and thought I would never own another bass boat.  Not so fast Mr. & Ms. Bass... I'm still at it. ?

 

 

 

 

QuickStep-3.jpg

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Posted

The clamp swivels. I have one on each seat pole in my 1648. Holds a 12 oz. or 16 oz. bottle, or a one liter bottle. I used to keep one on my old riding mower and it never came loose or lost a drink. I don't need it now on my 50" Toro zero turn.

 

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www.drink2go.com/products/boat-cup-holder

 

And they have a 2 for $28.99 option.

 

"Fits Motorcycles, Walkers, Bicycles, Strollers, Boats

- Flex-Fits Cup Sizes - 360 Swivel Head & Non-Slip Clamp for Heavy Drinks – Bike Motorcycle Drink Holder

Digging for water bottles at stop lights can be stressful & unsuccessful. Our powerful holders clamp anywhere keep drinks safely accessible.

 

WHAT CAN THIS CLAMP ONTO?
The non-slip clamp fits any tubing from 5/8” to 1 ¾”. The adjustable “screw then clamp” design makes versatile while still locking in strong."

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Posted
11 hours ago, MickD said:

My boat came with non-folding/receding cleats that had the potential of breaking rods if one got under the end of one of them.  I also tore a couple shirts on them when working on the boat while it was on the trailer.  Tearing my arm open was the last straw and I replaced the open cleats with a set of folding ones.  Many problems solved.

 

Folding cleats, unlike receding or dropping cleats, can be installed on any surface and they work just fine.

Did the same unfortunately it was after breaking 2 rods. ☹️

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Posted
7 hours ago, Bankc said:

This is all good advice.  Though I think that 10GA is a bit excessive for a fish finder.  I'd look more to 16-14GA.  Most fish finders don't pull much more than 2 amps.  But nothing wrong with going over, so long as you don't get ridiculous.  

 

And the multimeter can be really helpful.  Just a cheap one will be fine.  And put a lithium battery in it (not lithium ion rechargeable, but something like an Energizer lithium).  Two reasons.  One, they last longer.  I've had some that lasted for 15 years.  And two, they don't leak.  That way you know the DMM will be working when you need it, which will probably be very rarely.  

Actually 10 GA is recommended on a lot of the newer bigger units and pretty sure a few draw more than 2 amps. I think the pre rigged harnesses are ridiculous for the money but I rewired my 2019 last year and it absolutely helped.  Plus as you said a little over kill never hurt anything when it comes to power! Love the neoprene sleeve on trolling motor, just makes things look much better and protects things. Tp always a great thing to have! I also installed a bubble box in my aerator for 40 bucks and it keeps my fish lively and in good shape in the hottest of weather with no ice or additives.  All things that give me peace of mind which is sweet on the water!

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Posted

The instant starting  of the 1986 2 stroke 30 hp engine. Every time. Or 1 pull with the manual cord.  

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Posted

A DD bass during a tournament…

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Posted
On 2/9/2022 at 6:38 AM, MickD said:

Tearing my arm open was the last straw and I replaced the open cleats with a set of folding ones. 

Can I ask how this occurred?

 

The cleats on my boat are mounted on the inside of the gunnel.

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Posted
4 hours ago, gimruis said:

Can I ask how this occurred?

 

The cleats on my boat are mounted on the inside of the gunnel.

The cleats on my boat are mounted on a horizontal surface about 2 inches wide.  As I was reaching into the trailered boat I moved my arm against the open cleat, tearing the arm open.  

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