Please be my Mentor

[Catt]

As for rods, reels, lines, lures K.I.S.S.

 

Spend more time learning Micropterus Salmoides!

 

Learn where they live (structure/cover)

Learn the predominate food source in your body of water.

Learn how both relate to structure/cover year round.

[Alex from GA]

When I'm at a place I don't know, or a place I do, I'll throw a finesse worm with light line and the lightest weight I can get away with.  When you're at the dock ask what depth they're at.  That's the main question, not what they're using or where are they.  No one's going to tell you that anyway.  I buy 40 packs of finesse worms a year, usually use them all and they're all the same color.

[Koz]

On 1/29/2022 at 5:19 PM, Capt No Fish said:

How do I know what to do and what is the right approach. 

You won't know anything until you try. Weather, water temperature, time of year, time of day, forage, and dozens of other factors come into play. As you gain more experience, you will become more confident in narrowing down your options.

 

For now, have some fun with different baits and techniques. When you're confident you gave it your best shot and still have not got a bite, move to the next spot.

 

Personally, if I'm not fishing with electronics I'm not going to site there for 45 minutes and try half a dozen different baits. Heck, watch the pros on TV. Most of them cover lots of water until they find a spot or a pattern.

 

 

 

[CrashVector]

14 hours ago, Capt No Fish said:

 

 

I feel fairly confident with how to use the baits and the techniques.  I am still trying to perfect my accuracy but the biggest this I am struggling with is how to put all this into action.

 

I'm a finesse fisherman 95% of the time and is what I "specialize" in. My standard lures are a Texas rigged powerbait pit boss with a pegged 3/16oz weight, or a reverse rigged cut down senko or Ned rig with a de-hooked Ned weight glued to the bottom.  I've caught many fish in the 4-10lb range on those exact baits.

 

I will use chatterbaits, frogs, and a devil horse, but it's very rare.

 

I worry less about catching fish than I do about just enjoying myself tbh.  It's pretty rare when I get skunked except for the last week lol!  If you're having fun, the bites will happen.

 

It's easy to go overboard with buying too much crap tbh.  Find what you have the most fun fishing with, and just keep doing that...fun is what it's all about anyhow.

 

I personally love using soft plastics because it's simply the most fun for me, therefore I've become quite good at it because it's so much fun.  See how that works? Lol

 

 

[Capt No Fish]

Thanks everyone.  Logs of good information here.  I am thinking that I will take 2 baits, 1 moving and 1 static.  I plan to hit each area with the moving bait first and then go to the static bait.  Static baits being a Jig, worm, texas rig type of lure.  Question is is how long to I go with one before I change?

 

Do I run the moving one through the whole area and then the static one and move on or do I need to spend more time on each?

 

Thanks!

[Capt No Fish]

19 hours ago, WRB said:

I have posted a few threads on over load in the past.

The answer is going back to basics, it’s never that secret lure.

Lets take a trip to your lake, don’t know anything about it so my 1st step is look it up and determine what type of fish are in the lake, game and prey fish plus other prey sources.

2nd step is a detailed map an sat study, map shows structure contours, sat shows docks, aquatic surface pants on top of the structure.

Arriving at the lake I now know something about it. Launching my boat I go through the same steps as if on familiar water. Determine surface water temp, any bait or bass in the marina, both visually and sonar. From the water temps I forming what seasonal period this lake incurrent in. From the marina survey I know approximately how deep to start and what lures work for me under the current conditions, weather, wind etc.

Take another look at the map and get an idea where to start.

My 1st choice is the marina if bait or bass are in the area.

Marina’s get restocked by local bass anglers emptying their

livewell every trip.

If the seasonal period is cold water, I am heading towards the dam and 1st major point. Depending on what I meter jigs, Structure spoons and deep diving crank baits that work in deeper water.

If it’s the Spawn cycle I am heading to wind protected and secondary point near the back of the creek arm. Jigs and soft plastics work.

Summer warm water period bass have scattered but more active now. I prefer outside structure during summer and night fishing. Lure selection is more difficult near shore but the deeper outside structure jigs, worms, crankbaits all work.

Fall is the transition between warm water summer and cold water winter. If the lake has Shad population follow them into creek arms and use Shad profile lures like lipless crank baits, structure spoons, soft plastics.

It’s not all that difficult.

Tom

PS, pre spawn is a graduate course.

 

Thanks for this Incredible information.  For whatever reason the way you explained it, it hits home.  I do have 2 questions regarding your post.

 

What is "outside structure"?  Is that deep ledges or something different?

 

You mentioned going up creek arms.  My lake is a highland reservoir that doesn't at least to me seem to have creeks.  There are little streams that feed the lake and  where they enter are little coves.  Would that be the same as a creek arm?  It's a deep fishery.

 

Thanks for you input.

[cyclops2]

You have COMPLETLY mastered the MOST DIFFICULT part of catching any fish. Or a particular type & size of them.

So many things affect when & where they are.  I would get Arthritis attack if I listed all the variables.  

 

Are your waters busy during daylight & weekends ?  If yes ?  I would go right to sunsetting & 1 hour after it to see if they get active. You can use any 2 to 3" float then dives when retrieved lure. Speed is not important in darkness.

[Deleted account]

On 1/29/2022 at 5:36 PM, Team9nine said:

If you think you have information overload already, coming onto a message board with thousands of participants from across the country and asking for help (more information/suggestions) is just going to make things worse

THIS^!

Stop reading and watching videos, and fish till your arms fall off every waking moment you can. The mentor idea is a good one, but you need to find one to go fishing with, not here. Go east to NJ (did I just type that) There are plenty of places there where one could catch fish all day. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, The Flyers suck! Let's Go Rangers!...

 

[Capt No Fish]

1 hour ago, Deleted account said:

THIS^!

Stop reading and watching videos, and fish till your arms fall off every waking moment you can. The mentor idea is a good one, but you need to find one to go fishing with, not here. Go east to NJ (did I just type that) There are plenty of places there where one could catch fish all day. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, The Flyers suck! Let's Go Rangers!...

 

I have a had time arguing the Flyers especially has a Highschool and youth hockey coach.  I think a old guy like me might do better.

 

I definitely think more time on the water will help.  With family obligations I only get out 20 times a year if I am luck.  I do need to find more ponds and stuff with fish instead of just fishing on the boat.  But the boat is part of my enjoyment.

[RDB]

On 1/30/2022 at 11:03 AM, WRB said:

Study bass behavior, seasonal periods before buying anymore lures.

1000% This ^^^

 

I think most anglers early on focus on the wrong things.  The challenge with fishing is not technique, it’s consistently reading the conditions and locating the fish.  Focus more on bass behavior: seasonal and in season movements, water temp, rising/falling water, fronts, sky conditions, water visibility, wind, etc.  In my experience, the 2 factors that distinguish the great from the average from the poor is 1) the ability to read the conditions to consistently locate fish, and 2) the skill to consistently present their offerings in the highest percentage spots.  IMO, technique would be third on the list.  As Catt has said on numerous occasions, you can’t catch fish if there are no fish to catch.

[Deleted account]

3 minutes ago, RDB said:

I think most anglers early on focus on the wrong things.  The challenge with fishing is not technique, it’s consistently reading the conditions and locating the fish. 

RDB!

RDB!

RDB!

 

I am gonna have to keep your deposit to cover the cost of the microphone though...

[WRB]

3 hours ago, Capt No Fish said:

Thanks for this Incredible information.  For whatever reason the way you explained it, it hits home.  I do have 2 questions regarding your post.

 

What is "outside structure"?  Is that deep ledges or something different?

 

You mentioned going up creek arms.  My lake is a highland reservoir that doesn't at least to me seem to have creeks.  There are little streams that feed the lake and  where they enter are little coves.  Would that be the same as a creek arm?  It's a deep fishery.

 

Thanks for you input.

“outside structure” is simply structure element that hold a bass population away from the shore line. 

The structure doesn’t need to be large, it could be 1 rock pile or a single larger boulder. Catt has a thread on “humps” that are classic outside structure.

For decades anglers like Catt and myself had these outside jewels to ourselves. 99% of the bass never got further away from the bank then a casting distance. Today this has changed with more boat anglers using their detailed map and sonar to locate “outside structure”.

Not all High Land reservoirs are large but by definition are in mountainous terrain with gullies, draws, canyons, ridges etc. 

Creek arm could be any narrow bay that once has a creek or small stream entering at tail end. Could be a few hundred yards or several miles long depending on terrain. 

Bass fishing Terminology varies greatly depending on the region, very difficult to communicate. Drains, pockets, coves are all the same for example. River arm and creek arm can be  the same.

I believe you have learned a lot and need to kick back and learn to rely on what you know and use you sonar to locate bait and fish.

Enjoy, we are here to help.

Tom

[Mobasser]

Keep it simple, and learn to fish a t rig plastic worm.

[Catt]

While I agree 100% with @RDB & @WRB y'all better add in studing the food source. Baitfish doesn't relate to structure the same way bass do. If you know what the baitfish are doing you'll know where the bass are going.

[BassNJake]

5 hours ago, Capt No Fish said:

Thanks everyone.  Logs of good information here.  I am thinking that I will take 2 baits, 1 moving and 1 static.  I plan to hit each area with the moving bait first and then go to the static bait.  Static baits being a Jig, worm, texas rig type of lure.  Question is is how long to I go with one before I change?

 

Do I run the moving one through the whole area and then the static one and move on or do I need to spend more time on each?

 

Thanks!

Seasonal patterns are a good place to start.

Where fish are located in early spring is different than mid summer

As @WRB says locating bait and fish with the sonar provides an excellent starting point

This sport is #1 about locating the fish

No matter the rod, the reel, line, bait or experience of the angler matters if you are casting to where the fish ain't 

 

 

[Sam]

Everyone on the Forum is your mentor.

 

Just ask your questions and we will do our best to give you good input.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

29 minutes ago, Catt said:

While I agree 100% with @RDB & @WRB y'all better add in studing the food source. Baitfish doesn't relate to structure the same way bass do. If you know what the baitfish are doing you'll know where the bass are going.

True!  The pros say follow the baitfish but they never, ever, discuss the baitfish's habits.

 

On local Virginia lakes you can see the shad balls in the Fall.  But what are the crawfish, bluegill, bream, Sac-a-Lait, minnows doing? No one discusses what the bait fish are doing, other than they are in the "back of the creeks."

 

Learn what the baitfish are doing on your bodies of water and you will have additional success when searching for the bass.

[RDB]

28 minutes ago, Catt said:

with @RDB & @WRB 

I was getting ready to ask how you do the at thing above but when I entered the symbol, it popped up.  Gained a new wrinkle.  I’m a boomer, so hopefully it doesn’t replace a wrinkle I need.  It think it may have as I now have a sudden affinity for mono. ?

[Bassbum1016]

I prefer the KISS method (Keep It Simple Stupid) and I’m not directing that at you.

 

You want to be successful in that scenario?, find the irregularities…….

Look for the cuts, the twists and turns or the holes.

 

Each of these indicates some kind of change in bottom and are your “high percentage areas”. 

 

[N.Y. Yankee]

1. Look for good underwater structure or something that shadows the water. 

2. Get a Senko, worm, or jig with a trailer.

3. Tie good strong knots and sharpen your hooks.

4. Cast into and around structure.

5. Vary your retrieve. Try to make the bait look like a nice easy meal or an injured prey item.

6. When you feel a tap, set the hook.

Think of playing with a tabby cat with a toy mouse.

If you don't get a hit after 5-10 minutes, there are no fish there. Move to a different location but not very far away.

The rest, you will pick up as time goes on. Dont overthink it.

 

[MN Fisher]

2 hours ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

1. Look for good underwater structure or something that shadows the water. 

2. Get a Senko, worm, or jig with a trailer.

3. Tie good strong knots and sharpen your hooks.

4. Cast into and around structure.

5. Vary your retrieve. Try to make the bait look like a nice easy meal or an injured prey item.

6. When you feel a tap, set the hook.

Think of playing with a tabby cat with a toy mouse.

If you don't get a hit after 5-10 minutes, there are no fish there. Move to a different location but not very far away.

The rest, you will pick up as time goes on. Dont overthink it.

 

Hope you're talking cover

 

Structure is the flats, hills, valleys, humps, ridges and drop-offs

Cover is the weeds, drowned trees, sunken cars, etc.

[N.Y. Yankee]

On 2/1/2022 at 1:51 PM, MN Fisher said:

Hope you're talking cover

 

Structure is the flats, hills, valleys, humps, ridges and drop-offs

Cover is the weeds, drowned trees, sunken cars, etc.

OK, so I picked the wrong noun. 

[WRB]

On 2/1/2022 at 10:51 AM, MN Fisher said:

Hope you're talking cover

 

Structure is the flats, hills, valleys, humps, ridges and drop-offs

Cover is the weeds, drowned trees, sunken cars, etc.

Sunken car, must a ice fishing accident. I would consider a car as man made structure. This goes to illustrate how regional our bass fishing terms can be. One mans cover is another’s structure.

Tom

[MN Fisher]

3 minutes ago, WRB said:

Sunken car, must a ice fishing accident.

Actually, Tom - up until 25 years ago or so, a local radio station parked a car on Lake Minnetonka and set up a contest. Whoever guessed closest to the date and time the car fell through, got a prize...usually tickets to all the concerts coming to town the next 12 months plus lots of station 'bling'.

 

Then the DNR stepped in and told them to 'cease and desist'.

 

I don't think they ever pulled the cars out again...not sure.

[Dogface]

22 hours ago, WRB said:

Sunken car, must a ice fishing accident. I would consider a car as man made structure. This goes to illustrate how regional our bass fishing terms can be. One mans cover is another’s structure.

Tom

 

I guess if the fish are hanging around the car its considered structure and if they are hanging in the car its cover. ?

[Deleted account]

On 2/4/2022 at 11:09 AM, Dogface said:

 

I guess if the fish are hanging around the car its considered structure and if they are hanging in the car its cover. ?

The car can be cover or structure,....If it's a convertible....