crankbaitrod MBR Rod Vs Glass Rod For Cranking

[ATA]

I have question which is very important to have answer for, I want to know is really MBR rods can be a good replacement for glass crankbait rod? Or you are telling me that I need to have glass rod for cranking?

[roadwarrior]

MBR 842 is fine for light/ medium weight, shallow running crankbaits.

[Deleted account]

45 minutes ago, ATA said:

I have question which is very important to have answer for, I want to know is really MBR rods can be a good replacement for glass crankbait rod? Or you are telling me that I need to have glass rod for cranking?

You don't need a glass rod for cranking, you need a rod with  good power, moderate action, and a slowish recovery. Yes glass rods will do this, but so do graphite and composite rods. The larger, the deeper the crank, the more important this becomes. Line selection also plays a big part, that is often overlooked.

 

[FishTank]

I have used the 844 and the 783 for cranks.  Its ok but not ideal.  I prefer the St. Croix Legend Tournament for medium to deep crankbaits and the IMX Pro Crankbait rods for topwater, shallow crankbaits, and square bills. 

[RDB]

1 hour ago, Deleted account said:

You don't need a glass rod for cranking, you need a rod with  good power, moderate action, and a slowish recovery. Yes glass rods will do this, but so do graphite and composite rods. The larger, the deeper the crank, the more important this becomes. Line selection also plays a big part, that is often overlooked.

 

This^^^
I the only thing I would add is I assume you are referring to G Loomis MBR rods.  I am a Loomis fan boy but for cranking, I think it’s overkill for the price and there are better rods for that application.

[Columbia Craw]

5 hours ago, Deleted account said:

You don't need a glass rod for cranking, you need a rod with  good power, moderate action, and a slowish recovery. Yes glass rods will do this, but so do graphite and composite rods. The larger, the deeper the crank, the more important this becomes. Line selection also plays a big part, that is often overlooked.

 

Well said.  I’ll second the point, the deeper you crank, the more important these stated factors become.

 

Manufactures have developed composite blanks that provide the very best of both worlds.

[ATA]

5 hours ago, Deleted account said:

You don't need a glass rod for cranking, you need a rod with  good power, moderate action, and a slowish recovery. Yes glass rods will do this, but so do graphite and composite rods. The larger, the deeper the crank, the more important this becomes. Line selection also plays a big part, that is often overlooked.

 

Thats the issue, All my MBRs conquest with Fast Action.

14 minutes ago, Columbia Craw said:

Well said.  I’ll second the point, the deeper you crank, the more important these stated factors become.

 

Manufactures have developed composite blanks that provide the very best of both worlds.

This is the matter of buying new combo, Or just make it work with my MBRs. Because if you tell me my conquest will do the job, I am not going to buy anything anymore.

[FishTank]

Another thought on this...  How about the Megabass P5 Destroyer Madbull. 

[RDB]

10 minutes ago, ATA said:

This is the matter of buying new combo, Or just make it work with my MBRs. Because if you tell me my conquest will do the job, I am not going to buy anything anymore.

You just answered your own question.  You are using a $700 rod for crankbaits…you can afford multiple crankbait rods.  ?

[WRB]

The last glass crank bait rod I had was a Fenwick Popping rod blank. I used this 7’ blank with a trigger stick handle in 1971 to make a deep diving crank bait rod that could be cast with 2 hands for maximum distance. 

I replaced the Popping rod in the mid 80’s with a custom built Lamiglas composite rod designed for deep divers.

in the early 90’s Loomis came out with the PR845C I used for medium diving smaller crank baits, lipless and structure spoons.

Today I would buy Dobyns DC805CB for deep crank baits.

Tom

[KP Duty]

I watched a video recently by a Texas pro on squarebills (I only remember his last name was 'biggs').  His rod choice was the imx-pro cbr 855.  This rod is labeled as a heaivy, fast tapered rod.  He wasn't even fishing heavy cover...he was tossing a 1.5 at docks.  Just my random contribution to this thread, lol.

[Bankc]

To me, the rod and line have to be in sync for a crankbait rig.  I had an issue once using a moderate action rod with mono line and deep diving crankbaits.  I couldn't get enough power to set the hooks reliably when the bait was really far out there.  That's when I learned that it's all part of system.  

 

So how much line you have regularly have out there, the speed and power of the rod, and the stretch factor of the line will all have to balance to give you what you need.  And you have to balance that with castability and the depth of your plug.  So to me, there's no one-size-fits-all answer.  It's all personal preference.  Get it wrong, and you'll know.  

[padon]

19 hours ago, FishTank said:

I have used the 844 and the 783 for cranks.  Its ok but not ideal.  I prefer the St. Croix Legend Tournament for medium to deep crankbaits and the IMX Pro Crankbait rods for topwater, shallow crankbaits, and square bills. 

thats kina funny because i have a 7ft medium ltb. they call it a plastics rod but it has a soft tip and good backbone. i like it for shallow cranks and lipless baits in the glass. i can feel when the grass ticks my bait and it has enough backbone to rip baits off the grass.

[islandbass]

14 hours ago, Bankc said:

To me, the rod and line have to be in sync for a crankbait rig.  I had an issue once using a moderate action rod with mono line and deep diving crankbaits.  I couldn't get enough power to set the hooks reliably when the bait was really far out there.  That's when I learned that it's all part of system.  

 

So how much line you have regularly have out there, the speed and power of the rod, and the stretch factor of the line will all have to balance to give you what you need.  And you have to balance that with castability and the depth of your plug.  So to me, there's no one-size-fits-all answer.  It's all personal preference.  Get it wrong, and you'll know.  

What you say is true, no doubt. Unfortunately, that no one size fits all is a bait monkey ploy to get us to acquire more rods, lol.
 

I would add that the rod’s length is also a crucial factor in the scenario you described. It might not be so much the fault of the set up itself, ie, the line or the rod but more about that super long distance between you and the lure.

 

One simply cannot expect a typical length 6-7’ bass rod, give or take a few inches, and a super bombed out cast to be a good mix to effectively pull off a driving hook set. I am only referring to ridiculously long casts if that is what you meant. Physics is against us in this case, lol.

 

This is where a longer rod shines. Line control and management and consequently, the hook set is easier with a longer rod. It’s also a good reason why salmon and steelhead rods are longer by nature relative to a bass rod. Many times during the drift, the lure is ridiculously far from me — and having that extra 2-3’ longer rod (typical range 8’6” - 10’6”) helps. Naturally, there are draw backs. 

[ATA]

On 1/11/2022 at 6:32 PM, RDB said:

You just answered your own question.  You are using a $700 rod for crankbaits…you can afford multiple crankbait rods.  ?

That was before Covid disaster hit my business LOL, Now we are living in post covid world and I cant afford S**t. ?

[Deleted account]

20 hours ago, KP Duty said:

I watched a video recently by a Texas pro on squarebills (I only remember his last name was 'biggs').  His rod choice was the imx-pro cbr 855.  This rod is labeled as a heaivy, fast tapered rod.  He wasn't even fishing heavy cover...he was tossing a 1.5 at docks.  Just my random contribution to this thread, lol.

To me, fishing square bills and other similar shallow cranks isn't "cranking". The rod for these shallow baits varies depending on many factors, and I think a cranking rod would be out of place for them. 

[Lead Head]

After a lot of trial-and-error, I have discovered that I prefer a moderate-fast (or just a slower than normal fast) graphite rod with FC line for cranks. I don't crank anything deeper than about 10-12' though, if I was going down to 20' I might feel different. 

 

I'm not sure what they would compare to off the shelf, but the American Tackle Bushido popping/cranking blanks make (in my opinion) the best cranking rods.

 

[KP Duty]

I found the vid I was referring to, but I can't link it directly for some reason.  It's the second one going down.  Worth a watch...

https://www.google.com/search?q=biggs+crankbait+vid&oq=biggs+crankbait+vid&aqs=chrome..69i57j33i160.10037j0j7&client=ms-android-att-us&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#

 

 

[Dumbbassanglr]

I use my 842 mbr for square bills 

[Mbirdsley]

On 1/12/2022 at 1:11 PM, Bankc said:

To me, the rod and line have to be in sync for a crankbait rig.  I had an issue once using a moderate action rod with mono line and deep diving crankbaits.  I couldn't get enough power to set the hooks reliably when the bait was really far out there.  That's when I learned that it's all part of system.  

 

So how much line you have regularly have out there, the speed and power of the rod, and the stretch factor of the line will all have to balance to give you what you need.  And you have to balance that with castability and the depth of your plug.  So to me, there's no one-size-fits-all answer.  It's all personal preference.  Get it wrong, and you'll know.  

I’d agree with this. Generally speaking ( always exceptions) The slower the rod the the less stretchy you want the line to be IE using flouro, co polymer, or braid ( I don’t like braid for cranking but, some people do).  
 

on the opposite side the faster the rod the more stretchy you want the line to be to absorb the shock of the fish IE using mono. My okuma evx is a moderate action graphite crank rod and it seems to like flouro and mono equally.