Any Reason I Shouldn't Be Throwing my Cranks on 20lb. Braid to 6lb. Flouro?

[Smallies]

I mean, I know the obvious — if shallow and around wood it can get pretty pretty beat up, obviously if I hook a monster I can break the 6lb. leader, but anything else?

 

It's just that I find my cranks go deeper (or should I say run to their true, stated-on-the-box depth) when I throw them on 6lb. as apposed to even 8lb. or, like I was originally throwing them, on 12lb. straight flouro.  PLUS, they have a LOT more action — like it's completely noticeable (and yes, I have a pool and I did test several different cranks on both 6lb. leader and 12 lb. straight).  

 

Anyway, thoughts?

[MN Fisher]

Unless you're using a LONG leader, that braid might impart too much force on hook-set. Also it won't give enough to keep them hooked over the duration of a fight.

 

Treble hook lures, for the most part, need the stretch of mono/FC/hybrid

[Smallies]

@MN Fisher How long is LONG?  I'd say I usually have about 20' of leader?

Also, are you saying that the fact that the braid is attached to the light test leader might break off the leader mores than if I were using straight 6lb. flouro, or the same?  And then, the next question would be can I use straight braid, because of the thin diameter but high strength — and I guess the answer to THAT would be not enough give for treble hooks?

 

[MN Fisher]

20' would probably be enough. When I put leaders on braid, it's usually no more than 8'.

 

I would steer clear of straight braid, even 8#...braid doesn't stretch at all, and you want stretch for treble hooks.

 

Myself - I use Yo-Zuri hybrid. 12# on the casting rig for larger cranks, 4# on the spinning rig for smaller/lighter cranks. I also use a mod-fast action rod for both rigs.

[KDW96]

Yes you can use straight braid. I have 20lb on one rod for crank/spinner baits. Keep an eye on your line for digging in itself. Also adjust you drag accordingly. With a properly set drag you wont be bending hooks. Thumb pressure on the spool can be added if need be, until the fish slows down. Theres really no reason any reels drag should be locked down.

 

[cyclops2]

I have caught 3 1/2 foot pike on 4 pound & 6 # braid They rarely pull loose if hooked in MEAT. Not jaw bone or tough gum stuff.  BUT    I keep all rods straight up & bent nicely. The tear outs are very rare. I am using 1 1/2" lures & original trebles.

[OldManLure]

20lb braid and 6lb flouro leader is what I’ve settled on and been using for a few years on the river.  It has never let me down.  I keep leaders in the 8’-10’ range.

[Smallies]

Cool, Thanks @MN Fisher — I'll stick with the braid to flouro I think, cause I also like the ease-of-use of braid.  Not so many backlashes and line twist.  Only thing is, gotta make sure my leader stays long enough.  Good info. 

 

So what do you define as smaller/lighter.  We talking light is 1/2Oz. and under or what?

 

Why do you change it up from casting to spinning for lighter cranks?  More finesse-y?  I've been using my crank (the Dobyns Fury 705) for all sizes of cranks/jerks/lipless.  I did notice, though, that when I threw the jerks on my spinning setup (Fury 702SF) they had a little more action than on my heavier backbone casting setup, so maybe that's why?

6 minutes ago, KDW96 said:

Yes you can use straight braid. I have 20lb on one rod for crank/spinner baits. Keep an eye on your line for digging in itself. Also adjust you drag accordingly. With a properly set drag you wont be bending hooks. Thumb pressure on the spool can be added if need be, until the fish slows down. Theres really no reason any reels drag should be locked down.

 

That's good info, I like the idea of dragging with your thumb instead of the mechanical drag.  Puts you more in tune with the fish, too.  What about the hook-set though?  Can't straight braid rip it the trebles out of their mouths, or put a big hole in when you set the hook so the barb can come out when they thrash?  I mean, I know it's more of a sweeping hooks with trebles, so maybe that's the deal.

2 minutes ago, OldManLure said:

20lb braid and 6lb flouro leader is what I’ve settled on and been using for a few years on the river.  It has never let me down.  I keep leaders in the 8’-10’ range.

Sweet!  That's good news, cause I REALLY like the depth/action with that combo.  My cranks were just DEAD in the water with 12lb. flouro and the ran like a good 2-3ft shallower.

[Bass Rutten]

As long as your rod has a decent amount of flex it shouldn’t be an issue just keep an eye out for line dig (repack your spool often) and run your drag a little light. I have really good hook up and landing ratio with 30 pound braid to 10lb leader on a dobyns 705cb. I prefer the precise lure control braided line gives you.

[KDW96]

34 minutes ago, Smallies said:

That's good info, I like the idea of dragging with your thumb instead of the mechanical drag.  Puts you more in tune with the fish, too.  What about the hook-set though?  Can't straight braid rip it the trebles out of their mouths, or put a big hole in when you set the hook so the barb can come out when they thrash?  I mean, I know it's more of a sweeping hooks with trebles, so maybe that's the deal

When i set the hook my thumb automatically goes to the spool, and fish is played

[MN Fisher]

1 hour ago, Smallies said:

So what do you define as smaller/lighter.  We talking light is 1/2Oz. and under or what?

3/8oz is my 'crossover' point - where it's equally likely to cast on spinning as it is to toss it with casting.

 

1 hour ago, Smallies said:

Why do you change it up from casting to spinning for lighter cranks?  More finesse-y?  I've been using my crank (the Dobyns Fury 705) for all sizes of cranks/jerks/lipless.  I did notice, though, that when I threw the jerks on my spinning setup (Fury 702SF) they had a little more action than on my heavier backbone casting setup, so maybe that's why?

Fury 705CB is my casting rod as well. My spinning is an 7' Okuma Reflexions A ML/MF-F...not quite a mod-fast, but a little springier than a fast. It's also rated to heavier lures than my Fury 702SF - 5/8oz top rather than the 1/2oz top of the Fury.

[WRB]

Can’t think of any reason to do that.

Tom 

[NorthernBasser]

I usually use straight fluro or straight copolymer for my cranking.

 

But I do like using straight braid (40#) if I'm ripping lipless cranks through weeds. Makes it so much easier. 

[Smallies]

12 hours ago, WRB said:

Can’t think of any reason to do that.

Tom 

My reasons for wanting to do it are :

 

1).  Much more action on my lures (especially jerk baits) with the smaller diameter line

2). Deeper/Truer running depths on my cranks across the board with the smaller diameter line

3).  Braid doesn't backlash as badly/often or twist (on spinning setup)  

4).  Trying to offset the lack of stretch needed for trebles with the long flouro leader

 

But, I was really asking why SHOULDN'T I do it, as in what problems will I run into if I do this when landing a larger fish.  But really helpful answers so far guys, thanks

 

[ajschn06]

I used straight braid on a MH fast stick for years with crankbaits and did not have any issues. 

[king fisher]

The big reason I wouldn't do that is snags.  You could end up loosing a lot of cranks with that light of line.  If you are using small crankbaits, and don't loose many than why not?  A larger crankbaits action is not going to be effected by 12 to 15 pound line, and when you snag there is a much better chance of working the lure free.  As far as loosing a big fish goes, 6 lbs. test can land the biggest bass in any lake, as long as long as you are fishing in open water.  Get around any cover, and you may be setting yourself up for heart ache.

[Smallies]

6 minutes ago, king fisher said:

  A larger crankbaits action is not going to be effected by 12 to 15 pound line, and when you snag there is a much better chance of working the lure free.  

 

How large are we talking here?  Cause I tested it on most of my cranks, and ALL of them had more action and ran deeper in the pool on 6lb. than 12lb. but I guess the heaviest of my cranks is 1/2oz. so I dunno, maybe you're throwing a lot heavier (1 oz?) plugs than I am.  

 

Yeah, the snag thing is honestly what worries me the most, but we don't have a lot of grass where I fish, actually none really, and so if I get snagged I'm usually cutting the line anyway, regardless of 12lb. or not.  I rarely am able to get them free.  I just got a boat though, so this may change now that I'm not stuck to the dock and can pull at 'em from different angles so ... I guess I'll just see what happens and if I start losing them on the regular then I'll have to go up in my leader or change to straight braid I guess...

[Team9nine]

May be fine for small crankbaits, 1/4 oz and less, and mostly shallower water (and shallower diving baits), but have to believe this experiment ends up bad in more situations than not. There’s just a lot that doesn’t add up here; under-rating of fluoro vs nylon, braid to leader knot, direct tie knot strength, excessively long leader, loss of hook setting power, etc. Maybe more specifics on your cranks and depths involved would answer some of these concerns.

 

As you just mentioned, you’ll just have to try it and see how it works. Maybe in your situation it will work out fine. Update us sometime down the road when you finally get a bunch of time and fish under your belt with it.

[Smallies]

I will keep y'all posted, for sure.  

[TnRiver46]

The reason I quit doing it was to save time 

[WRB]

2 knots to fail using 6# FC with at best 5# knot strength. Every cast stresses the knots and fishing moving lures like crankbaits smaller line less then .010 D is asking for trouble with little to no gian. You want more lure action use a small clip or loop knot.

Tom

 

[cyclops2]

Bad mind day but.

 I have switched to  tying ANY LINE OR LEADER to the molded wire loop when the August feeding drop off occurs. The fish are well feed easier. More prone to have longer none feeding rests.  Will sit on a rock bottom for hours. I have dragged all lures thru them.  ZERO   Put a piece of fresh caught perch on anything ? BINGO

 

They will bite ANYTHING with perch meat or butcher scraps. Barbless is better for fast unhooking with ease.

 

I am C & R .  So I can do this easily.

 

Edit    I tie ALL Braids DIRECTLY to lures even the 60 #. Instant hits. in August. NO barbs needed for C & R.

[Spankey]

I have no desire to go at it that way. Not messing with any leader. I just spool XT, Stren, SunLine, Big Game, McCoy on what setups I have. I crankbaits fish with 6, 8 and 10 lb. on a regular basis. I buy my line in bulk spools. Change it more than I have to but thats just being anal. Generally don’t strip spool all the way back, strip back to a  certain point (existing knot). 
 

I have no desire to mess with braid and leaders. For me I know I’m not wrong or right I guess. Just the way it works for me. 

[Fat Ika]

2 hours ago, Team9nine said:

May be fine for small crankbaits, 1/4 oz and less, and mostly shallower water (and shallower diving baits), but have to believe this experiment ends up bad in more situations than not. There’s just a lot that doesn’t add up here; under-rating of fluoro vs nylon, braid to leader knot, direct tie knot strength, excessively long leader, loss of hook setting power, etc. Maybe more specifics on your cranks and depths involved would answer some of these concerns.

 

As you just mentioned, you’ll just have to try it and see how it works. Maybe in your situation it will work out fine. Update us sometime down the road when you finally get a bunch of time and fish under your belt with it.

Agreed - Finesse cranks on spinning braid - leader with a composite spinning rod. Aside from that, straight nylon line on all baitcasting cranks.

 

@Smallies Water temp & different braid types/sizes will effect buoyancy of braid......In my personal experience it floats or slow floats. I don't think going with thin braid is going to get you better depth than a proper straight flouro setup, but maybe I'm wrong. Regardless, in most situations, there is no way of avoiding the line management issues with thin braid on a baitcaster. For me line management issues outweigh any other advantages. 

[WRB]

Owner size 14 micro swivel 30# or Spro #10 solves line twist when cranking moving lures with spinning tackle. Attach to lure with a soft ring (braid loop).

Tom