99 Mercury Optimax 225 hard shift into neutral from Forward or Reverse

[BassnChris]

Does anyone know if after pulling lower unit to replace water pump on a 99 Mercury Optimax 225 - could there be anything misaligned that would make it hard shift into neutral from Forward or Reverse ?

 

I don't know if it was like this before I replaced the water pump or not.

 

I have replaced the shift cable.

I have disconnected the shift cable at the control box and the control box lever shifts into fwd position and back into neutral smoothly as would be expected. The same for Rev.

I have shifted by hand at the engine with no resistance either.

When everything is connected back it is hard to get back into neutral from both fwd and rev.

 

I am going to test the shift switch solenoid on the engine tomorrow - weather permitting. 

But I was wondering if I could have misaligned something when I reassembled after water pump replacement.

I hate take the lower unit back out if I don't need to.

 

Thanks

 

 

[TnRiver46]

Yeah that happened to me once when I got a new (used ) lower unit. I took it back to the place and the guy said “oops, everybody gets one!” and had it fixed in minutes. I would imagine you need to take it off and put it back on, but not sure obviously. Also I got a new water pump once and it would pee great in neutral but stop peeing at idle speed in forward. My friend took the lower off and adjusted this little pvc looking thing he called the in take tube, all good ever since 
 

also every time I’ve had my lower taken off and put back, forward is reverse and reverse is forward. The last time, I didn’t even bother getting it corrected. Been driving it flip flopped for at least 3 years I think. The same friend that fixed the intake said it’s an easy fix, just a switch to flip. I should probably let him do that one day but it’s not bothering me, runs perfectly 

[Way2slow]

If it shifts fine at the motor, sounds like it would be tge cable or control.  My 2006, 90hp Merc was doing that and a new Seirra HD cable fixed it.  It felt like you were going to rip the control off to shift it.  Make sure you don't have a radius that's too tight in the cable.

[BassnChris]

10 hours ago, TnRiver46 said:

I wish I had paid closer attention to it that prior to replacing the water pump.

This was a new to me boat and I just jumped right in doing the annual maintenance so that I would have confidence in the last known service date.

 

 

Yeah that happened to me once when I got a new (used ) lower unit. I took it back to the place and the guy said “oops, everybody gets one!” and had it fixed in minutes. I would imagine you need to take it off and put it back on, but not sure obviously. Also I got a new water pump once and it would pee great in neutral but stop peeing at idle speed in forward. My friend took the lower off and adjusted this little pvc looking thing he called the in take tube, all good ever since 
 

also every time I’ve had my lower taken off and put back, forward is reverse and reverse is forward. The last time, I didn’t even bother getting it corrected. Been driving it flip flopped for at least 3 years I think. The same friend that fixed the intake said it’s an easy fix, just a switch to flip. I should probably let him do that one day but it’s not bothering me, runs perfectly 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5 hours ago, Way2slow said:

But the control moves easily when cable is disconnected at the motor.

Even after replacing the shift cable. 

Strange to me......everything works individually but not when they are all connected.

I am going to test the shift solenoid today....my guess is that it will be ok too.

 

If it shifts fine at the motor, sounds like it would be tge cable or control.  My 2006, 90hp Merc was doing that and a new Seirra HD cable fixed it.  It felt like you were going to rip the control off to shift it.  Make sure you don't have a radius that's too tight in the cable.

 

[TnRiver46]

8 minutes ago, BassnChris said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

@Way2slowis several thousand times more knowledgeable than I am on the subject, I’ve just had a similar issue before. I asked the guy that fixed mine what he thought happened. He said “did you see how hard it was for me and you to get that lower lined up perfectly on the install? I bet whoever put it on did it by himself” 

sure enough he was right, the guy that replaced my lower was a one man show 

[Way2slow]

I don't have a lot of experience with Merc's but have a hard time seeing how replacing the water pump could be causing it to be hard to shift, when it shifts fine with the cable disconnected from the liinkage.  Not saying it can't, I just don't see how it can.

When the cable wears, it develops rough areas in the bends.  When the pressure is applied to shift and advance the throttle, these areas cause a lot of friction and resistance.  When the cable is disconnected, it does not have that increased pressure from moving the throttle, shift linkage and gears in the motor, so it will feel as though it's functioning just fine.  That's also why you have to be careful about not putting too sharp of a bend in the cable, they wear out quickly and get very hard to shift and go full throttle.  That's one time I like an aftermarket part to replace them.  Sierra's are a larger diameter and the last couple of times I've had to replace one, I've used their's, they seem to work smoother and last longer.

 

[BassnChris]

I replaced the shift cable but that did not resolve.

There are no tight bends.

 

I agree that it does not seem like it would cause the difficult shifting back into neutral.

Control box works with little resistance when disconnected from shift cable. (hot foot - so no cable throttle cable connected.

shift cable disconnected from the engine - is easy to engage manually.

 

I reached out to previous owner and he verified he experienced no difficulty in shifting.

Replacing water pump is the only variable.

Struggled a little getting lower unit reinstalled.

I would think that the only shifting issue I would have is it only   shifted into either fwd or rev and neutral.

When weather cooperates I was going to drop the lower unit and reinstall - since that will not cost me anything but time. 

 

Is there anything I should check on the remote control box to make sure it is not bad ?

The cable makes a sweeping 90 degree turn at the back of the boat .

Then through the rigging sleeve and into the motor. Do any turns appear too tight to you? 

 

 

[WRB]

I would reinstall the water pump making sure the drive shaft splines are properly aligned so the shifting isn’t binding.

You may need 2 people to reinstall the drive shaft.

Tom

PS, the jackplate looks high

[BassnChris]

26 minutes ago, WRB said:

I would reinstall the water pump making sure the drive shaft splines are properly aligned so the shifting isn’t binding.

You may need 2 people to reinstall the drive shaft.

Tom

PS, the jackplate looks high

 

We were planning on pulling the lower unit and reinstalling.

We have had very unseasonably warm weather up until a week ago.

Then old man winter showed up.

Today would have been a good day to do it but too much already planned.

We'll get it and I'll post back.

 

What do you mean the jackplate looks high?

I had lifted it a few inches and just left it there until I got back to working on the lower unit.

[WRB]

Try lowering the engine to the height you have it when starting engine to plane the boat, you don’t start the engine shift with the jack plate raised normally.

Tom

[BassnChris]

25 minutes ago, WRB said:

Try lowering the engine to the height you have it when starting engine to plane the boat, you don’t start the engine shift with the jack plate raised normally.

Tom

Thanks Tom.

Gotcha......I was working on the shifting issue with it in the lowered position. I was working on the jack plate and left it up.