Kayak tracks with no interior access for bolts

[Koz]

I don’t have any access inside the hull of my kayak at all. I want to mount a YakAttack safety flag with a light on the back of the kayak, but there are no tracks back there.

 

I know there are a few stick on solutions for racks, but with the length of the flag I would think the shearing force would eventually rip it off. The same goes if I screwed a track in without being able to lock it down with nuts and washers.

 

Has anyone else come across this issue and found a solution?

[OldManLure]

How about a flush mount rod holder with leash and packed with a piece of pipe insulation in which to insert flag pole.  You could leash flag to rod holder.

[dickenscpa]

I had this issue come up back when I was running a Pescador Pilot. I screwed in some additional tracking and did not have access to the inside hull either. I installed 4 tracks to mine and 3 of them I just screwed every other screw in that came with it and used marine goop. The 4th one I knew would get a little torque on it so I used marine goop and used every screw. To be clear I was using the self tapping screws after drilling a pilot hole.

 

On that 4th track I had a yakattack rod holder and my yakattack safety flag with light. One of the other 3 had a yakattack rod holder on it as well but no flag and only every other screw. I use my rod holders solely as a place to put it while I'm fishing with another rod I do not troll. I'm not sure I would trust many tracks for trolling unless it was not only bolted and nutted but in a spot that was recessed in to the molding like quite a few are from the factory.

 

It's surprising how stout adding marine goop or whatever sealant you choose makes it.

[J Francho]

2 hours ago, Koz said:

Has anyone else come across this issue and found a solution?

Well nuts.

[Jigfishn10]

1 hour ago, J Francho said:

Well nuts.

I see what you did there...?

[bulldog1935]

I would attach to milk crate or Engel cooler. 

 

I just don't drill holes where I can't back with pressure-seal washers

 

adding the esoteric option - the small Seasucker base will lift your boat - they're made to cantilever dinner tables from gunwhales, and to hold bicycle racks on car tops. 

The built-in vacuum pump sticks for several days. 

I added 1/4-20 all-thread and a Scotty gearhead

in this case, your favorite rod holder - this thing isn't going anywhere until you decide to remove it. 

@Koz this will cantilever any heavy rod you want here, and the 4" rubber base is a big cushy foot. 

The T-bolt on the Yak Attack foot is probably 1/4-20 thread, and the whole thing should screw right into all-thread. 

You can probably also clamp the yak attack mighty mount to the Seasucker frame

 

[J Francho]

2 hours ago, J Francho said:

Well nuts.

But seriously folks...well nuts are one answer to the question.  I do like the attach to the crate option, too.  In fact that is where my YakAttack light goes.

[Jigfishn10]

Just now, J Francho said:

But seriously folks...well nuts are one answer to the question.  I do like the attach to the crate option, too.  In fact that is where my YakAttack light goes.

I knew exactly what you were talking about, I was just making a joke...Sorry man, I should have left well enough alone. ?

[Kirtley Howe]

Hollow wall toggle bolts. Drill holes in the racks of appropriate size for the bolts. Place rack where you want it, and mark hole placement on boat. Drill a hole in the boat hull big enough to get the toggle through. Coat bottom of the rack with marine goop. Insert bolt through the rack, and screw toggles part way onto bolts.  Coat toggles with marine goop and insert in holes in hull. Push rack down to seat it on hull. Lift up on screw head and tighten toggle against the hull. As the toggle tightens against the hull, it will pull the bolt down tight. Put a light coating of marine goop on the bolt head. Let sit for 24 hours. When the marine goop sets, you will be able to mount just about anything you want on the track. The rack will most likely fail before the mounting does. Toggle bolts are available in a variety of sizes and lengths at any hardware store and are very inexpensive. I have never done this on a Kayak (never owned one) but have mounted many things on boats where I did not have access to the back using this technique. If done right, the mount is waterproof.

[Koz]

1 hour ago, J Francho said:

But seriously folks...well nuts are one answer to the question.  I do like the attach to the crate option, too.  In fact that is where my YakAttack light goes.

Thanks, I'll look into those. Rather than just the light I'm looking at the VisiCarbon flag and light.  The greater length of that unit would contribute to more shearing force, and I don't want to end up having the plate ripped out of the hull.

[J Francho]

That's the unit I have. I just stick it in a rod holder on my crate. 

[Choporoz]

On my Wildy, I attached a Mighty Mount 2 with rivets.   That was 6 or 7 years ago....still holds Visicarbon pro light/flag firm.  Did the same on my Hobie

  On my wife's,  I used a StarMount, but those aren't nearly as good...can be a pain to put in and take out the flag

[Maxbasstn]

I agree with using wellnuts.  Used them for an anchor trolley and it held up great with the pressure of an anchor pulling and dropping on the pad eyes where they were used. 

[Bankc]

Depending on the forces applied, well nuts may or may not last.  I've had them pull out on my kayak's rudder mount.  Not from normal use, but from being bumped around during transport.  

 

My solution was to install a stainless steel bracket inside the hull, and use stainless bolts to attach it to.  Installing the bracket was a huge pain.  But here's how I did it.  

 

First, take some zinc coated bolts and cut off the heads.  Make sure they're magnetic.  Wrap some braided line around them and tie it off.  The grooves of the bolt will keep the line from slipping off.  Feed the bolts through the holes and use a powerful magnet and gravity to pull the line through the kayak to the front, where the well storage hole is.  Then, once you get the line through, cut it off and wrap and tie it around a stainless bolts that's already placed through the backing bracket.  Repeat for each hole and bolt.  Then pull the lines back out and the stainless bolts will align themselves through the holes and pull the bracket into place.  Carefully install the nuts and washers, one at a time, making sure that the bolts don't fall back through.  It helps to have a small jeweler's screwdriver to align the bolts through the holes.  Or use those metal wire bolt feeders that align through the center of the bolt's diameter.  

[flyfisher]

Well nuts work as do rivets.  I usually go the rivet route on things mounted to my kayak unless I know I will be removing the item at a later time.