Super User Wayne P. Posted October 23, 2008 Super User Posted October 23, 2008 I use my jon boat for electric only lakes and also limited HP gas motor lakes. When I am on electric only lakes, I use a transom mount trolling motor and a bow mount foot control motor. Since I only use the transom motor set on its highest speed, I wanted to be able to turn it off and on from the front of the boat. I had been using a heavy wire from the battery to the front with a Big Foot switch for that purpose. When planning on a new boat setup, I came up with an easier way to operate the transom motor without having to buy the heavy guage wire to lessen voltage loss. I bought a 12V starter solenoid which only requires a small size wire for the energizing circuit and that allowed for the trolling motor wiring to connect to the battery with a very short cable along with the motor power wiring-no voltage loss from a long wiring run. Now I just make the positive connection to the trolling motor at one side of the solenoid and the other to the negative battery post which is the negative of the solenoid activation switch (the grounding frame). The Big Foot switch is wired to make and break the positive side of the solenoid activation circuit where I used a quick disconnect plug so removal is easy when I want to use the gas motor. Pictured is the setup-the top left two wires are to the trolling motor. Quote
Raydawg Posted October 23, 2008 Posted October 23, 2008 Nice setup. I'm looking to buy a small-lake boat and will keep that idea in mind. Ray Quote
Super User Wayne P. Posted October 23, 2008 Author Super User Posted October 23, 2008 Another positive attribute is parts. Other than $12 for the solenoid, I only had to obtain one 10-32 nut for the activation circuit connection at the solenoid and a short piece of wire from the positive battery post to the solenoid post (already had that), some #12 wire for the Big Foot switch I already had, the quick disconnect plug (like a two wire version of a 4 wire flat trailer electrical hookup) and some wire terminals and splices. The wing nut on the negative battery post was switched with the solenoid post nut so that was a non purchase. The negative battery post wing nut wouldn't fit within the space of the solenoid frame connection anyway. I plan on using two transom mounted electric motors along with a bow electric on my next setup. This will make the wiring a lot easier and cheaper with virtually no voltage loss due to wire resistance. Quote
Team_Dougherty Posted October 24, 2008 Posted October 24, 2008 Looks like a good setup. I have some questions. what is the service duty of the solenoid? They are used to start motors and are usually on for a few seconds. Will it over heat after a few minutes of being energized? How much current does the solenoid draw? will it cut down on your run time? Quote
Team_Dougherty Posted October 24, 2008 Posted October 24, 2008 Looks like a good setup.I have some questions. what is the service duty of the solenoid? They are used to start motors and are usually on for a few seconds. Will it over heat after a few minutes of being energized? How much current does the solenoid draw? will it cut down on your run time? I found this http://www.arcomarine.com/xhtml/Pages%2063-68%20Wiring%20TechTips.pdf Quote
bassboy1 Posted October 24, 2008 Posted October 24, 2008 You can get continuous run solenoids. They use them on golf carts and the likes. Quote
Super User Wayne P. Posted October 24, 2008 Author Super User Posted October 24, 2008 Thanks Team-Dougherty, I'll be ready if the coil fails. I didn't consider the duty rating of the coil, I was only thinking of the amp capacity of the contacts. When I discussed my application at the auto supply store, wire size for the activation circuit was the only topic. Being a small guage (16 was suggested) ment low amp draw. I used 12 guage. Next purchase will be a golf cart solenoid. edited: I'm going to run the auto version that I have now to see how long it will last and then swap to the golf cart version if I experience a failure. I like the golf cart version better as the negative side of the control circuit is a terminal instead of a grounding frame like the auto version so a remote location can be utilized. Just a single wire quick disconnect for that change. Quote
Super User Wayne P. Posted October 24, 2008 Author Super User Posted October 24, 2008 I just got back from an ATV/Golf Cart repair/sales dealer. There are no 12V solenoids for electric golf carts, most are at least 36V. Some are available for gas carts with continuous duty coils but I couldn't get the specs on those. The parts dept suggested a solenoid for an electric winch like those used on ATV's. There are two kinds with one being waterproof for about $90 and another non-waterproof for about $30. After checking the specs for the wenches, I ordered two of the non-waterproof models. A #2000 winch draws over 150 amps under full load so the contacts for those is plenty heavy duty for a trolling motor and the coil is continuous duty. It is listed under parts for Warn Winches. Quote
Team_Dougherty Posted March 25, 2010 Posted March 25, 2010 How is this setup working? I just suggested it to someone on another site. Quote
Super User Wayne P. Posted March 25, 2010 Author Super User Posted March 25, 2010 It works great. I used just one Big Foot switch to energize two solenoids wired parallel. When I push the Big Foot switch, the two solenoid contacts close and power two transom trolling motors. Quote
BassResource.com Administrator Glenn Posted March 27, 2010 BassResource.com Administrator Posted March 27, 2010 Nice setup. I'm looking to buy a small-lake boat and will keep that idea in mind. Ray Check out these boats! http://www.carolinaelectricboats.com Quote
Super User Catt Posted March 27, 2010 Super User Posted March 27, 2010 Or for those wanting a bigger boat http://www.g3boats.com/EagleSeries/176Electric/ Quote
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