SV Spool Question

[Schuyler co]

Looking to put a new reel on my Dobyns KD 610-4 CB to use for jerkbaits and small crank baits. Wanting to try a Daiwa ..looking at the Tatula SV or SV 103? I’m a bit apprehensive with the SV system, I’ve spent a lot of time educating my thumb and according to some reviews you don’t need it with the SV. Should I go with a regular Tatula 100 or 150? Any feedback would be appreciated! Thanks!

[bulldog1935]

SV has little to do with your thumb - it simply adds extra mag brake with jerk either resulting from cast or heavy lure weight start-up. 

You can adjust out mid-cast backlash with linear mag brake.  You still need thumb to stop. 

 

Distance is really good - I get 100' with stock SV spool, fluoro, and 1/8 oz. 

When it becomes amazing is adding aftermarket BFS spools - there, I get 130' with 1/16 oz and Ray's Studio honeycomb SV spool. 

I used to cast weightless rig on Daiwa Millionaire with a spiral cast to avoid start-up jerk.  That was all thumb, and you'll never hear me gripe about Daiwa SV. 

 

Shimano DC is the one that claims to replace your thumb, braking 1000 times/second. 

[Schuyler co]

3 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

SV has little to do with your thumb - it simply adds extra mag brake with jerk either resulting from cast or heavy lure weight start-up. 

You can adjust out mid-cast backlash with linear mag brake.  You still need thumb to stop. 

 

Distance is really good - I get 100' with stock spool and 1/8 oz. 

When it becomes amazing is adding aftermarket BFS spools - there, I get 130' with 1/16 oz and Ray's Studio honeycomb SV spool. 

 

Shimano DC is the one that claims to replace your thumb, braking 1000 times/second. 

Got ya…any insight on the SV vs the SV103? Thanks. 

[bulldog1935]

According to Jun Sonada, the magnets improve with each new SV introduction, spools become lighter, and rotors become lighter because less mass is needed in the magnet field to get equivalent braking. 

[FrankN209]

I'd go with the 100. No need for the deeper spool for jerkbaits and small crankbaits. It should cast those lighter lures better also. 

[iabass8]

There's a multitude of versions of an SV spool. They've been in Daiwa reels since 2012/2013 and have many advances, altercations, etc. Long story short, "SV" isn't static across all platforms. There's different inductors, magnets, spools and so forth. They trickled down the Tatula roughly 4-5 years ago and are very user friendly. In example, you can set the brakes significantly lower in the Tatula SV lines and enjoy both the benefit of the SV while having to thumb a little but less than what you're used to. The tatula SV performs exceptionally well but to get the performance out of it, flushing the bearings and polishing the shaft is when the reel, tatula SV specifically starts to shine. some are fine /w it stock but as somebody that uses top of the crop spools and cleans/tunes some others in the tatula lines, I can tell a difference. 

 

Also, assuming you're referring to the Tatula SVTW and the TatulaSVTW103, go /w the TatulaSVTW103. It's a more compact version of the older SV and will give you the same benefits. The "SV103" (non tatula variant) is an older Zillion based platform /w an SV spool. 

[Big Rick]

2 hours ago, iabass8 said:

The tatula SV performs exceptionally well but to get the performance out of it, flushing the bearings and polishing the shaft is when the reel, tatula SV specifically starts to shine.

Not to hijack the thread here, but can you give a little insight on what you use to flush the bearings and how you polish the shaft? Also, what oil/lubricant do you go back with on the bearings? Thanks. 

[iabass8]

16 minutes ago, Big Rick said:

Not to hijack the thread here, but can you give a little insight on what you use to flush the bearings and how you polish the shaft? Also, what oil/lubricant do you go back with on the bearings? Thanks. 

I'm going to speak on spool bearings. frame bearings and handle bearings, don't bother. Just order a new one. I keep countless on hand for that reason. Frame bearings can be a direct result of how smooth of unsmooth a reel can feel. There's, imo, no reason to try and flush/grease it. just replace it /w a quality SS one. On to spool bearings, Ask 5 people how to flush the bearings and you'll get 7 answers. For me, and what I've found what works for me and others over the years, is removing one of the shields and hitting it /w a degreaser solvent or soaking it in a degreaser and mixing it around. A blast of air and then into isopropyl alcohol and then a blast of air. you don't need to spin a bearing at mach 99 on a bearing tool. You want your bearing to come to a complete smooth, quiet stop. If it stops abruptly, it's not clean or it's bad. However, if you have a perfectly clean bearing, it will spin for a long time and come to a very smooth, clean stop. one single drop of oil will last a One Rod Todd type of guy half a season. Single drop after half a year and you're good till winter. Type of oil is personal preference. For maximum performance, you want something /w a very low viscosity. Hedgehog long cast, ZPI, and, ironically enough, REM gun oil, work very well for spool bearings. Hedgehog is my personal favorite. 

 

Polishing the shaft and inner pinion isn't something to just go in on a reel and try. I use different grades of sand paper and polishing compounds. You don't want to alter the concave tip or the dimensions of the shaft but you want it to be a mirror/smooth finish. The inside of the pinion you can wrap fine polishing paper on the end of a dremel and then smooth out anything rough. Then hit it /w polishing compounds. The shaft is something that can be done /w most polishing pads but you do not want to remove any of the metal. only mirror finish it. 

[Columbia Craw]

I’m going to throw a wrench in the gears.  I have multiple variations of SV spooled Daiwas. You know what model casts jerk baits and smaller hard baits best for me???  You don’t?  Well I’m going to blurt it out. The Elite 100.  Surprise!!!!  I have one on my Champion 704CB and one on my Kaden 610-4CB.  They will cast farther that my Steez.  I’m really impressed with the Elites.  

[Boomstick]

18 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

According to Jun Sonada, the magnets improve with each new SV introduction, spools become lighter, and rotors become lighter because less mass is needed in the magnet field to get equivalent braking. 

I have a Steez SV and I have skipped with the brake on either 6 or 8 before (forgot to turn it up). I only birds nested once or twice, but it wasn't too bad.

 

12 hours ago, Columbia Craw said:

You know what model casts jerk baits and smaller hard baits best for me???  You don’t?  Well I’m going to blurt it out. The Elite 100

I would be inclined to go for the Tatula Elite over the Tatula SV for lures you straight up cast like jerkbaits (except real light ones). They cast further. The SV will cast real light ones better, or maybe normal sized ones if your rod is too heavy.

 

I have been using a SV for crankbaits and sometimes jerkbaits (sometimes I use a Pflueger Patriarch which I also use for poppers because I use the same rod for both) and wish I had bought a Tatula Elite instead, thinking about buying one myself.