4-pc travel rod blanks?

[RipHair]

Looking for some good quality 4pc travel rod blanks in the 6'8-7'6' range. I see plenty of 3pc but not many 4pc at all. I take it it's not trivial converting a 1pc blank into 4pcs, adding ferules ,etc?

[MickD]

The only way to make a 4 piece rod from a one piece blank is to add the old metal ferrules which will result in a  lot of added weight and an action with two or three flat spots.  Not a good idea.  Better to compromise on three piece blanks if you cannot find a four.  A 3 piece 7 foot rod  rod breaks down to about 28 inches, which travels pretty well.  

 

Rodgeeks has a travel series of 4 piece blanks up to 6 ' 6" .  It would not be difficult to fit a grip section onto one using a metal ferrule and you'd have a rod up to about 7' 6" . 

 

I would go with a designed 7 foot 3 piece blank-I have a Rainshadow RX6 that works just fine, very versatile rod.  SB841-3.  The catalog description isn't quite right-it actually is an X-fast action with a lot of butt section power which makes it very versatile rod from very light jigs to pretty heavy lures.  It's my backup for bones and cudas, and does both jobs very well.  I have CCS numbers on it if you're into those.

[RipHair]

Hi Mick, thanks for the recommendation. I plan on building 2-3 rods to replace my existing St Croix Triumph 6'6 4pc MF MHF travel rods. Them being 4 piece fit in my carry-on luggage but the 28" would have to be carried separately or in my larger checked luggage isn't a blocker.

 

Initially I was in the market for the MegaBass Orochi XX 4pc travel rod but they weren't available all summer. Some recommendations on the more expensive Shimano travel rods (4pc and 5pc) go up to $980 USD each.  For the wait, no warranty and at those prices, it got me thinking of trying my hand at building my own during these winter months. Mainly looking for 2-3 rods in M and MH for plastics (weighted and unweighted).

 

I'll keep the SB841-3 in mind while I do more research on the rest of the hw I need and other blanks. Know of any other blank manufacturers that do 3pc in the high end? Any thoughts on St Croix SCV's?

 

 

[RipHair]

On 12/27/2021 at 7:55 AM, MickD said:

The only way to make a 4 piece rod from a one piece blank is to add the old metal ferrules which will result in a  lot of added weight and an action with two or three flat spots.  Not a good idea.  Better to compromise on three piece blanks if you cannot find a four.  A 3 piece 7 foot rod  rod breaks down to about 28 inches, which travels pretty well.  

 

Rodgeeks has a travel series of 4 piece blanks up to 6 ' 6" .  It would not be difficult to fit a grip section onto one using a metal ferrule and you'd have a rod up to about 7' 6" . 

 

I would go with a designed 7 foot 3 piece blank-I have a Rainshadow RX6 that works just fine, very versatile rod.  SB841-3.  The catalog description isn't quite right-it actually is an X-fast action with a lot of butt section power which makes it very versatile rod from very light jigs to pretty heavy lures.  It's my backup for bones and cudas, and does both jobs very well.  I have CCS numbers on it if you're into those.

 

Rainshadow does look really nice and I found a comparable MHX blank as well. It says it's built with "RX6 standard modulus (33 million) high strain rate graphite" and the MXH TR842-3  "Toray 12K Intermediate modulus Fiber of 45 million modulus with 853 ksi and a Hardened Resin System".

 

Specs-wise, it seems the MHX comes in a bit lighter: TR842-3 @ 1.83oz vs SB841-3 @ 2.2oz. But cost is $115 vs $80.

 

I'm thinking about using either or a mix of the above to build the following rods:

 

1) 7'0 MHF casting for heavier cover

2) 7'0 MF casting because I want to try to see if I can get away from spinning completely

3) 7'0 MF spinning for weightless, clear-water application

[Lyman X]

I like the MXH for this, They're not short on power, and you can't beat the warranty. I'd lean toward The 843-3 for the med heavy fast, buts that's me.

[spoonplugger1]

The G Loomis GLX Escape travel rods are something to think about. I have a 7 1/2 ft version they no longer make that has been carried everywhere from Easter Island to Alaska for 20+ years.

[MickD]

Please clarify, Spoonplugger, if the Loomis blanks are no longer available and the GLX Escape is a rod and not a blank,  then. . . ?

15 hours ago, RipHair said:

 

Rainshadow does look really nice and I found a comparable MHX blank as well. It says it's built with "RX6 standard modulus (33 million) high strain rate graphite" and the MXH TR842-3  "Toray 12K Intermediate modulus Fiber of 45 million modulus with 853 ksi and a Hardened Resin System".

 

Specs-wise, it seems the MHX comes in a bit lighter: TR842-3 @ 1.83oz vs SB841-3 @ 2.2oz. But cost is $115 vs $80.

 

I'm thinking about using either or a mix of the above to build the following rods:

 

1) 7'0 MHF casting for heavier cover

2) 7'0 MF casting because I want to try to see if I can get away from spinning completely

3) 7'0 MF spinning for weightless, clear-water application

I think you need to consider the weights of the lures to be cast rather than the cover/water type/spin or cast.  The rod needs to load properly on the cast for it to be a good caster.  Whether built as a spin or cast.

[RipHair]

36 minutes ago, MickD said:

I think you need to consider the weights of the lures to be cast rather than the cover/water type/spin or cast.  The rod needs to load properly on the cast for it to be a good caster.  Whether built as a spin or cast.

Thanks for calling this out, I should try to get out of the habit of jotting down notes based on my internal frames of reference to make it more clear for others.

 

On this subject and since I do occasionally have specific need: what would you recommend for working weightless wacky/TR around thicker cover - say if I were to be fishing around Okeechobee where there is thick grass, underwater branches? I've generally used my St Croix Triumph 4pc 6'6 MHF rod which has lure rating at 3/8-3/4oz on the basis alone that it has a bit more backbone than my Triumph 6'6 MF.

 

Also interesting is it seems my 3 Triumph rods are on the order of ~5.5oz; would be quite happy if I'm able to get my final custom build a bit lower!

[MickD]

If you find the MHF rod works well with that lure rating then other blanks with the same rating should work too.

 

I figure my spin builds will come in at about 2 ounces above the blank weight. My most recent Point Blank 701MLF came in at 3.8 oz on a 1.78 ounce blank.   I use a size 17 Fuji DPSSD seat which weighs about an ounce.  I use split grip with a butt knob and only small ramps of cork off the seats.  For guides I generally use Fuji SS KLH 20-10-5.5M + 2 KB4's and 4 KT4's.  (most 7 foot blanks) .  I would not use 4's if you are not confident of a good, small, knot for braid to leader.  5's would make more sense.  Pic is of my typical configuration for spin.

[RipHair]

21 minutes ago, MickD said:

I figure my spin builds will come in at about 2 ounces above the blank weight. My most recent Point Blank 701MLF came in at 3.8 oz on a 1.78 ounce blank.   I use a size 17 Fuji DPSSD seat which weighs about an ounce.  I use split grip with a butt knob and only small ramps of cork off the seats.  For guides I generally use Fuji SS KLH 20-10-5.5M + 2 KB4's and 4 KT4's.  (most 7 foot blanks) .  I would not use 4's if you are not confident of a good, small, knot for braid to leader.  5's would make more sense.  Pic is of my typical configuration for spin.

 

That's a fine looking rod! Bamboo?

 

Thanks for detailing your build. I'm currently researching guides and your build helps to provide a reference. I haven't seen the "SS" portion being used on mudhole.com but I imagine you are using this https://mudhole.com/products/fuji-k-series-single-foot-spinning-reduction-guide-model-kl-h-alconite ?

 

If it's OK, when ready, I'd like to post my proposed build in this thread for some feedback. I think I've settled on Fuji SK2 for seat and split grip in cork for my casting although not sure how well this will translate to spinning... For guides, still researching the merits of microguides as they look interesting but I've never used them personally.

[spoonplugger1]

I'm sorry, from your first posts I thought you had looked at some pretty expensive gear and was now looking at blanks. The GLX Escape series is considerable cheaper, excellent quality, but they used to build 4 models, now I believe only two, the ones that are gone were a casting and spinning version of the same blank, the HS 9000 a hotshot blank they have sold as a plug rod for salmon/ steelhead, a Lindy Rig rod and decent jig rod for walleye, as an inshore rod in their Greenwater Series, it's not the only hotshot blank sold in this series by the way and a few bass blanks are here too. My favorite store bought Permit rod is here on a hotshot blank. North Fork Composites has excellent one and two piece versions of some of these no longer available G Loomis blanks.

[MickD]

Thanks, Spencer. 

Regarding the SS, yes stainless steel Fuji KLH reduction train.  Go to the anglersresource.net web site and use the KW software to see the reduction train recommendations.  I almost always go 20-10-5.5 because it is more versatile than 16-8-5.5 at almost no weight difference.  And any difference is away from the tip where it really counts.  The only issue with micro guides is the difficulty in holding them onto the blank while stress testing and wrapping.  Use the two line stress test on the same site to locate the running guides; it's easier than a single line test because the guides don't take the load of stressing the blank and they can be moved without removing the stress from the blank.  Much easier.  But I have more than an opinion, I have data that support the fact that the less weight you put onto the tip area of the blank, the higher the true natural frequency the rod will have. Most believe that the higher the natural frequency, the higher the sensitivity.

 

There is no issue that I see with posting your plans.  You will get different opinions in response, but look through them with an eye out for something that can be called a show stopper, a big mistake.  Most differences of opinion on build recipes are differences without a distinction.  Nowadays there seem to be two major schools of thought, the Fuji K series guides and the AmTak Microwave guides.  I like the Fuji's because the running guides are lighter and there are more options on size and finish than with Microwaves.  Both work well.  If there is an advantage of one over the other for casting distance, it's a moot point, IMHO, since both yield casting distances that are satisfactory, and I don't have the equipment or desire to try to find the difference, which certainly is minor with the braid most of us use.  Minor at most.  My Fuji's cast "a mile." 

[Lyman X]

I think you can beat that weight total easily.

[MickD]

13 hours ago, MickD said:

Thanks, Spencer. 

Regarding the SS, yes stainless steel Fuji KLH reduction train.  Go to the anglersresource.net web site and use the KW software to see the reduction train recommendations.  I almost always go 20-10-5.5 because it is more versatile than 16-8-5.5 at almost no weight difference.  And any difference is away from the tip where it really counts.  The only issue with micro guides is the difficulty in holding them onto the blank while stress testing and wrapping.  Use the two line stress test on the same site to locate the running guides; it's easier than a single line test because the guides don't take the load of stressing the blank and they can be moved without removing the stress from the blank.  Much easier.  But I have more than an opinion, I have data that support the fact that the less weight you put onto the tip area of the blank, the higher the true natural frequency the rod will have. Most believe that the higher the natural frequency, the higher the sensitivity.

 

There is no issue that I see with posting your plans.  You will get different opinions in response, but look through them with an eye out for something that can be called a show stopper, a big mistake.  Most differences of opinion on build recipes are differences without a distinction.  Nowadays there seem to be two major schools of thought, the Fuji K series guides and the AmTak Microwave guides.  I like the Fuji's because the running guides are lighter and there are more options on size and finish than with Microwaves.  Both work well.  If there is an advantage of one over the other for casting distance, it's a moot point, IMHO, since both yield casting distances that are satisfactory, and I don't have the equipment or desire to try to find the difference, which certainly is minor with the braid most of us use.  Minor at most.  My Fuji's cast "a mile." 

I should have said "a distinction without a difference."  

[RipHair]

On 12/28/2021 at 7:04 PM, Lyman X said:

I like the MXH for this, They're not short on power, and you can't beat the warranty. I'd lean toward The 843-3 for the med heavy fast, buts that's me.

Hi Lynn, thanks for your recommendation. The 843-3 you suggested made my short list for my MH build. Excited to try it out.