Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay, here is a topic that I would love to get your collective opinions on. Let me start with a question. At what price point does a fishing rod provide diminishing returns to the angler? In other words, is there really much difference between a $500 rod and a $300 rod, or $300 rod and a $200 rod? At what price point do you stop getting more bang for the buck? Like many anglers I like trying new fishing gear including new rods. But, would buying a $300 rod be ultra beneficial when I could get the same quality from a $150 rod? What about fishing reels? Is there more value comparatively with a higher end fishing reel? And if there is more benefit in buying the higher end rod, what manufacturers provide that kind of quality? Just curious what others think!

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Looking for the magic price point of where quality, longevity and in the case of reels, repairability 

all come together, is how I 'shop' for tackle.

Manufacturers vary wildly with personal preference.

I'd say that when dealing with most of the major brand names,

and I'm not going there, I can get what I want & need in a casting Rod or Reel

in units priced somewhere around $250 - $350.

Don't always pay MSRP but that's where most of them start out. 

Spinning rods & reels are close to the same, although some reels come in at a little less.

YMMV

:smiley:

A-Jay 

 

  • Like 3
Posted

Just a personal opinion here, but I believe that this question almost immediately spawns a second, arguably more significant question which is, “What kind of fisherman are you?”

 

I would guess that in my case, as a so-so fisherman at best, the answer would be to start with a budget.  I would be kidding myself if I said I would appreciate the difference between a $200.00 and a $300.00 rod. Same goes for reels.  If I were as skilled as some of the guys on here, I have no doubt I would appreciate the difference between the higher-end makes and models. So, for me, the budget is established first, then the research begins to find the “best” bang for my buck. (Although I have to admit I just ordered my first $300.00 reel … “because I just wanted to have one! “  (Stoopid bait monkey!)

 

It will be interesting to see the responses to this.

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

This topic is probably the most contentious topic on this forum. 

 

In terms of helping you catch fish,  it's far more important to have the right rod than an expensive rod.  I think a $70 rod that has the right weight and action for what you're doing will catch more fish than a $600 rod that does not,  even if the difference in weight and action is small.   There are other reasons to buy nice rods other than to catch more fish.  A lot of guys like using nice rods just like a lot of people like driving nice cars even though you don't  need a Corvette just to get to work.

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1
  • Super User
Posted

I wouldn't correlate skill with gear.  A few lines below the top of the line is probably the closest answer to the original question.  That is usually where I live with my gear.

  • Like 5
Posted
11 minutes ago, GrumpyOlPhartte said:

Just a personal opinion here, but I believe that this question almost immediately spawns a second, arguably more significant question which is, “What kind of fisherman are you?”

 

I would guess that in my case, as a so-so fisherman at best, the answer would be to start with a budget.  I would be kidding myself if I said I would appreciate the difference between a $200.00 and a $300.00 rod. Same goes for reels.  If I were as skilled as some of the guys on here, I have no doubt I would appreciate the difference between the higher-end makes and models. So, for me, the budget is established first, then the research begins to find the “best” bang for my buck. (Although I have to admit I just ordered my first $300.00 reel … “because I just wanted to have one! “  (Stoopid bait monkey!)

 

It will be interesting to see the responses to this.

I also think weather an angler is more of a shore angler or a boat angler comes into play as well. Does a very expensive rod help out the shore angler more than the boat angler or vice versa?

Posted

Looking at the rods at the component level:

Guides: Anything over a $20 set of Aconite guides is overkill.

Handle components: Cork is cork...cheaper cork is a little more pitted.

Reel seat: Functionally they all do the same thing...though some seats are more desirable.

Thread: Is just thread.

Rods: This is where the rubber meets the road. Graphite typically cost more than a glass rod. Long rods cost more than short rods.

Higher modulus rods typically cost more the lower modulus rods. 

 

So...if you ask me, "What's a better deal?"

A: 6'6" - 57 modulus graphite for $100.

B: 6'6" - 57 modulus graphite for $300.

 

I have to go with A.

 

Reminds me of what is the best kind of salt to buy. Kosher, sea, flake, Himalayan, black, Hawaiian,  Celtic....etc...etc...

Under the hood its all NaCl (sodium chloride).

 

  • Like 5
Posted
4 minutes ago, Chris Catignani said:

Looking at the rods at the component level:

Guides: Anything over a $20 set of Aconite guides is overkill.

Handle components: Cork is cork...cheaper cork is a little more pitted.

Reel seat: Functionally they all do the same thing...though some seats are more desirable.

Thread: Is just thread.

Rods: This is where the rubber meets the road. Graphite typically cost more than a glass rod. Long rods cost more than short rods.

Higher modulus rods typically cost more the lower modulus rods. 

 

So...it you ask me, "What's a better deal?"

A: 6'6" - 57 modulus graphite for $100.

B: 6'6" - 57 modulus graphite for $300.

 

I have to go with A.

 

Reminds me of what is the best kind of salt to buy. Kosher, sea, flake, Himalayan, black, Hawaiian,  Celtic....etc...etc...

Under the hood its all NaCl (sodium chloride).

 

Well put. 

  • Super User
Posted

For me these are my ranges: I do try to buy on sale, so really never pay full price for them.

 

Rods

I look in the 150 to 250 range. So like St. Croix Premier, Victory, and Avid lines. Dobyns Sierra, Kaden, and Champ XP lines. This is likely the level I will stay at forever, of course the price will increase over time:) I still use an ugly stick so I am used to heavier rods, so getting a very light in the hand rod or reel is not important to me.

 

BC Reels 

Generally in the 100 to 200 range. I have some cheaper reels that work fine, but generally with BCs you get much improved performance over the 100 dollar mark. That said I have found even low end Daiwas to cast very well and not baclash as bad as other brands.

 

Spinning reels

Here is where I am cheap. I am going to add a lighly used 20 year Shakespeare excursion to thmix to replace the one that has worked for me the last 20 years. I have never seen a reason to spend a lot on a spinning reel. As long as the drag is functional and they are smooth I will used whatever. I generally max out at 50 bucks. This is mostly due to the distance accuracy is on my hand trapping the line against the spool and not the fancy features needed in a BC to prevent backlashes, etc.

 

So that's it. For my skill level and needs I think this level of gear will keep me catching lots of fish for years. The higher end gear has advanteges I don't feel I need so I am cmofortable with this.

 

Only analogy I can draw is I used to race RC cars a lifetime ago and I was in or very close to the top tier of drivers nationaly especially considering I ran unsponsered. I basically ran what came to be a bone stock RC10 Worlds car with the aluminum tub cut up to save some weight. There were of course parts that theoretically could have made the car better, but for my driving style they were jsut money I didn't need to spend because it wouldn't have gained me anything. That is were I feel I am at with my rods and reels.

 

Again the above is for me and me only:)

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

I think a lot of times, it comes down to your own style and preference. Most guys can do well with mid priced gear. The mid priced gear  we have now is way better than even ten years ago.                                                         For 250.00 you can get a very good rod and reel, with good care can last for many years.

  • Like 6
  • Global Moderator
Posted

My most expensive rods are reserved for where the most sensitivity is required.
For a long time that level for me was around 300.
But with today’s materials and manufacturing processes, I can live with something a little less without sacrificing the most. 
 

 

 

 

Mike

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted
14 minutes ago, Mobasser said:

with good care can last for many years

I think this is the most important point, regardless of the price point or quality of your rod/reel or gear in general.  I have rods and reels that are easily 15 years old but they still function as they should because I take pretty good care of them.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

My answer is you can get a really good quality rod or reel in the retail price range of $300-350. After that the law of diminishing returns starts to kick in. There are a few  exceptions above that level that I feel are worth the price based on personal satisfaction but not necessarily form or function.   

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, MacJig said:

is there really much difference between a $500 rod and a $300 rod, or $300 rod and a $200 rod?

I would not know . I use 70 dollar rods . I'm afraid if I bought an expensive rod then I would want more .As of now,  I dont know what I'm missing .

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted
2 minutes ago, scaleface said:

I would not know . I use 70 dollar rods . I'm afraid if I bought an expensive rod then I would want more .As of now,  I dont know what I'm missing .

I haven't paid over $100 for any rod or reel, even though the MSRP on a couple of my reels are $200 each (pair of Patriarchs). I get everything used or on sale...maximizing my buying power.

 

  • Like 9
  • Super User
Posted

An example I use is a Fenwick HMG med spin rod, on sale for 60.00, with a Shimano Sahara size 2500 reel, which cost 80.00. Good combo for the money. Look for sales and shop around, and you can find some good deals out there.

An example I use is a Fenwick HMG med spin rod, on sale for 60.00, with a Shimano Sahara size 2500 reel, which cost 80.00. Good combo for the money. Look for sales and shop around, and you can find some good deals out there.

Dang! Double click got me again!

Posted

most of my rods are in the 200 -300 dollar range.there are nice rods  for less than that and good rods for twice that.but in that range im getting a rod that feels good in my hands is light reasonably sensitive and i can afford to have alot of them so i have different rods to fish different techniques. reels are easy for me i buy stradics and curados. not because they ere any better than any others at the relative price but because ive been using them so long that i know what im getting for my money and im used to them.look at most of the big time pros, they dont have a boat full of $600 rods. guys that can catch them can do it with decent equipment the dont need ultra high end stuff to catch them.

  • Super User
Posted
2 hours ago, J Francho said:
2 hours ago, J Francho said:

.

 

I agree with J Franchos statement, " I wouldn't correlate skill with gear." I fish with an older friend who uses a couple of rods made in the 90s. They're heavier, probably not as sensitive, but he still catches lots of fish each season. He's slowly upgrading his stuff a little at a time.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

As far as most of this board is concerned, I'm a cheapskate. My rods range from $50-130 new. Though my $130 rod is more than a decade old and I actually bought it used for $50. I have 3 rods worth $100 or more. Can I tell the difference between $50 and $130 rods? Sure. Do I need extreme sensitivity to throw a spinnerbait or buzzbait? Nah. So, for me, returns become diminished when the sensitivity is not required. It would seem a waste for me to be throwing that lure on a $300 ultrasensitive and brittle rod.

15 minutes ago, Mobasser said:

I agree with J Franchos statement, " I wouldn't correlate skill with gear." I fish with an older friend who uses a couple of rods made in the 90s. They're heavier, probably not as sensitive, but he still catches lots of fish each season. He's slowly upgrading his stuff a little at a time.

I have a buddy who routinely outfishes me and he didn't even own a BC combo until a couple years ago.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

A $100 rod will catch bass.  A $200 rod will greatly diminish my marital returns.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 12
Posted

I have sophisticated &  up scale bass in my bay.

 

Only the best can catch them.  Some bass will jump into the boat on command !!

  • Haha 2
Posted

I have caught a lot of fish on cheap reels and rods, after I replaced them with some super nice stuff 200-300 set ups I still catch a lot of fish but the rods and reels I have now perform well, don't break and are super nice looking.  You choose what you like and can afford then USE them, fishing is a skill you get good at the more you practice and if high end stuff makes you more confident then go for it!  But you don't need it to catch fish it's all choice. 

  • Super User
Posted
23 minutes ago, cyclops2 said:

I have sophisticated &  up scale bass in my bay.

 

Only the best can catch them.  Some bass will jump into the boat on command !!

I've met at least one of these fish myself.

Very cooperative.

https://youtu.be/ZCP-SwvsVNI?t=1552

:smiley:

A-Jay

  • Like 2
Posted

A few of the fish have passed the the U S  F & G   self unhooking procedure when entering the boat.  WE presented those with new coats.  Made by Panko Bread Crumbs.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.