Spinning Reel Seat Idea

[dv616]

I like larger diameter spinning reel seats since it help with an achy tendon that goes from the base of the thumb toward the wrist when gripping things like a fishing rod, paint brush, etc.  It helps to have the thumb oriented on the top of the rod pointing forward as well.  I like the Fuji NPS 18 mm reel seat (down locking orientation) and the Pac Bay GBS reel seat too, but it adds a bit of weight to the rod.  

 

So, I am thinking of trying this on a upcoming build, but don't want to use it on an expensive  blank until I know I will like it.  Currently, this one is on the gray Fuji arbors, but if I switch to poly urethane arbors, it should lower the weight a bit more to around 0.745 oz. instead of current 0.925 oz.

 

Is there a downside to this kind of seat?  I would expect to need to wrap the rings with tape to hold in place but I plan on getting a snug fit by dialing in the diameter before the final coat of finish on the handle.  I may even epoxy one ring in place.  I remember reading that Rich Forhan puts a couple poker chips in the middle of a reel seat to avoid compression over time.  You you think that would be needed?

 

My main goal is to get a comfortable reel seat that does not aggravate that tendon.  

 

Let me know your thoughts.  

 

[Chris Catignani]

I may be mistaken...but the 18 is just the inside diameter of that reel seat. Do you just have one that size and want to use it?...and it needs shimming?

 

As for the rings...they should hold. I've use that reel seat mostly. I will cut down the treaded area sometime.

I think the grey fuji arbors and the poly arbor are the same thing basically?

 

On a side note...in cases where a reel seat will need shimming and an arbor would basically be to thin...I will cut  a piece of scrap rod to the length of the handle...crush it with pliers and it basically will split in two...and then again till I have 4 pieces...then I use those as shims. It may not be as light as the poly arbors, but pretty close and all graphite.

There are those out there that will use masking tape...and I have used it myself. But every handle that I ever had to fix (come loose) had masking tape as arbors.

 

Also...you mentioned about the grey arbor weight. (and you may or may not know this) but you dont use that whole length of the arbor. You just cut like ( 4 ) half inch sections: 1 at top,1 at bottom and two equidistant in between.

[spoonplugger1]

Have you thought of using John Timberlake's hybrid Sticks & Bones style seat, might give you the best of both worlds with no tape mess.

[dv616]

The gray arbors seem to be heavier than the white ones, but I am sure it is not consistent between brands.  Size is not exact, but about the same length in 18mm weights are .365 vs. .185 oz for gray vs. white.  White was the CFX, gray is actually PacBay I believe, not Fuji.  I do usually use pieces of arbors, not the full size.  The last spinning rods I built I used two 1” arbors for the NPS reel seat.  I always trim the threads flush so there are no exposed threads at all when the reel is installed.  

 

I use the size 18 in the NPS with arbors.  The size 18 gives me the diameter I need for my hand.  Size 20 might be better but did not try that yet.  I wanted to show the weight differences between the two reel seats since the size 18 NPS is my typically set up for spinning.  

 

Those hybrid seats are an interesting idea.  I have had some thoughts about shaping the carbon grips in a way to keep at least one ring from sliding.  

[Chris Catignani]

11 hours ago, dv616 said:

The gray arbors seem to be heavier than the white ones, but I am sure it is not consistent between brands.  Size is not exact, but about the same length in 18mm weights are .365 vs. .185 oz for gray vs. white.  White was the CFX, gray is actually PacBay I believe, not Fuji.  I do usually use pieces of arbors, not the full size.  The last spinning rods I built I used two 1” arbors for the NPS reel seat.  I always trim the threads flush so there are no exposed threads at all when the reel is installed.  

 

I use the size 18 in the NPS with arbors.  The size 18 gives me the diameter I need for my hand.  Size 20 might be better but did not try that yet.  I wanted to show the weight differences between the two reel seats since the size 18 NPS is my typically set up for spinning.  

 

Those hybrid seats are an interesting idea.  I have had some thoughts about shaping the carbon grips in a way to keep at least one ring from sliding.  

Sounds like you...uh..."Got a grip on it"  

I see what you mean about the NPS now. Good luck. The handle assembly is (IMO) not necessarily the hardest past...but the most crucial.

[KCFinesse]

Interesting! I've been looking at the Amtack Aero and Essex Ergonomic seats for the same reason. This could be another great option.

[MikeK]

5 hours ago, KCFinesse said:

Interesting! I've been looking at the Amtack Aero and Essex Ergonomic seats for the same reason. This could be another great option.

See how the Aero or CRB Palm Swell feels in an uplocking orientation.

[MickD]

The only way I will use an Aero is uplocking.  Even then, I think they are so ugly (just an opinion, everyone, simply my taste in appearance-I admit they are comfortable) I prefer simply using a Fuji DPSSD size 17 uplocking.  I use a small ramp off the front about the same diameter as the hood which gives a nice place for the fingers.  And I never really contact the threads.  

[cyclops2]

To all of us aging and previously injured thumbs & other fingers wrists / elbows / arms / shoulders.  Etc. Your body is AGING. 

At 83 I am in ....VISUAL .....to anyone else. A fantastic body.  3 heart operations. implanted Pacemaker & defibrulator. over 8 stints in heart vessels. going blind in 1 eye. Cataracts need work. 1/2 of my toes were squashed by a small forktruck now have thick vertical toenails. multiple bad sprains in fingers and wrists. Artnritis all over.  Several cracked & broken ribs that are painful with weather. Random stabbing pains with  ONLY  the first 8 hours of a fast approaching good or bad weather front. 

 

The point of life is to somehow accept the loss of being a perfect healthy teenager and Use the WebMD.com and Drugs.com and the best known hospital sites for help with your conditions. There are MANY FANTASTIC medical specialists on the web that give excellent free  ACCURATE advice. Including........... " Very sorry to tell you nothing can be done about the steady loss of vision in your left eye from the medication you were given.. Be VERY GREATFUL the left eye is not affecting the vision from the right eye. "

My ancient fishing rods have large threaded cork reel seat areas that KEEP the thumb right next to the Index finger joint.  But age is forcing me to NOT cast as long or hard. I now troll a lot more. But that creates strained lower back & bent knee problems. 

Cure is to trial & error different ways with pain at first. Untill better muscles & joints are made stronger.  I can now cast with either hand. The left one did not like it at first.  O K now.

 

[Chris Catignani]

@cyclops2 If you ever need any rod work done...get em to me and I'll do it for free.

[cyclops2]

Thank you Chris.  ??

 

But I now take  only the oldest rods with me. I still have a Fiberglass one I use in a weather front conditions.

 

I also put a reel on a larger flyrod to get my finger to not hurt as much. A bad weather front coming with dense clouds wakes up the fish a lot. Cup of coffee as I recharge the cellphone & put on the yellow rain gear. Hat jacket & trousers.   Life is O K again.  ?

 

 

[MikeK]

On 11/21/2021 at 7:24 AM, MickD said:

The only way I will use an Aero is uplocking.  Even then, I think they are so ugly (just an opinion, everyone, simply my taste in appearance-I admit they are comfortable).

Sometimes but not always ?

 

[MickD]

Well. . . As I said, just an opinion.  I don't care for the shape of he Aero, and nothing can change that.  The best one I've seen is a glossy black, so it almost disappears.  Again, no offense intended.  If we all had the same opinion there would only be a couple different seats offered.  

[MickD]

If comfort is the goal, and you have some rods with seats that are compatible with this idea, then you can easily add a palm swell and/or increase the diameter of the seat without completely rebuilding the rod.  Pretty easy to do if you have a lathe or a drill press.  A slight, inexpensive, adaptation is required to turn cork easily and safely on a drill press, so if you would like info, let me know.  

[spoonplugger1]

I use a 20 mm NPS seat most of the time and I have short fingered hands, rod power makes no dfference, comfortable non cramping hands during a long day fishing is the thing. The 16 mm seats they all want to sell me are uncomfortable except on a fly rod. Would you use a hammer, or ax that has a grip that size and shape.

Have used the Aero reel seat a bit, but I only like the 17 mm version. Two reasons, first it's 1/10 of and inch larger, lastly it fits all the standard grips I would build casting rods with so I have a bigger variety to pick from and I don't have to carry, or buy smaller sized grips.

[Alex from GA]

I'm an old person too, 81, and the aero grips are more comfortable in my hand as is the palm swell on casting rods.  I do have normal size hands with no problems with them.

[dv616]

I will need to order up a size 20 NPS next time I order.  I am on the same page with the Aero seat being ugly but doing it unlocking does help the looks.  So many options!