Setting the hook?

[N.Y. Yankee]

What is your normal technique for setting a hook? Is it really necessary to set the hook so hard it looks as though you might tip over backward as seen on most any bass fishing show? I thought the whole point of using braid and fluorocarbon lines was the zero or near zero stretch as "no one" uses nylon mono anymore because it "stretches so much" for hook sets? If your hooks are sharp the fish should hook itself, you just need to keep the line tight. I don't see the point in the hook setting theatrics. This is something that just bugs me. When I feel a tap or a tug, I quickly reel out the slack and give a snap of the rod tip. Either the fish is there or it's not.  

[MN Fisher]

Just now, N.Y. Yankee said:

What is your normal technique for setting a hook? Is it really necessary to set the hook so hard it looks as though you might tip over backward as seen on most any bass fishing show?

Depends on the hook, the line, the rod. Hard haul (like in the shows) is for heavier rods, braid and large diameter hooks - like the heavy 4/0 on spinnerbaits, jigs, etc.

Light wire hooks on mono/FC/hybrid is more a sweeping action, not a hard haul.

 

1 minute ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

I thought the whole point of using braid and fluorocarbon lines was the zero or near zero stretch as "no one" uses nylon mono anymore because it "stretches so much" for hook sets?

Don't get fooled by the hype - FC stretches as much or more than mono...just takes a little more force to start the stretch.

Frydog did a test a few years back to show the stretch of various lines

 

3 minutes ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

If your hooks are sharp the fish should hook itself, you just need to keep the line tight. I don't see the point in the hook setting theatrics. This is something that just bugs me.

Even sharp hooks need help to get into the roof of the bass' mouth...so yes, a hook set is still needed.

[LrgmouthShad]

1 hour ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

I thought the whole point of using braid and fluorocarbon lines was the zero or near zero stretch as "no one" uses nylon mono anymore because it "stretches so much" for hook sets?

I'm not even going to discuss stretch because I'm not even sure I understand the supposed - see above post - stretch differences between fluoro and mono and haven't fished with straight fluoro enough to know for myself. What evidently helped me was tightening my drag more than I'm used to when fishing with trilene big game, thanks @Catt. I keep it anywhere from 6-9lbs now for 15lb test, because that line breaks at 22lbs of force. If I feel like I have a big fish on, I can always loosen the drag if I feel it's needed but I shouldn't need to because big game is a beast. 

 

Regarding hooksets, I have a tendency to swing straight up, even while sitting in my kayak. When fishing spinnerbaits, I wait till I feel something solid that indicates that fish has engulfed it. That could be very fast depending on the mood of the fish that particular day and how well they like the spinnerbait I'm throwing. I don't focus on reeling in slack for this lure. For texas rig, I do the drop rod, reel slack, and set hook straight up whole deal. For jigs I swing as fast as possible and hard. I don't really know how hard I set the hook on spinnerbaits and texas rigs but I'm not lazy about it at all. Ain't gonna discuss other techniques. 

[fishhugger]

nice topic, for me, a newbie... i been losing fish, but since i do catch and release, i often don't even care. but i'd like to work on my hook sets, and also, my drag setting. i only recently sort of figured out how to set it - probably from here.

 

also, i try to loosen my drag after a day's fishing.  

 

and, yeah, the theatrical, whale on 'em hook sets... thanks for the explanations. makes it much clearer.

[Bankc]

You just need to experiment to find out what works.  Keep in mind that with different hooks, lines, rods, distances (amount of line you have out), species of fish, size and age of the fish, and your technique, you'll need to adjust your hookset. Any one of those variables can change how much power you need to set the hook.  

 

I do think a lot of the guys on TV over exaggerate their hookset.  But then again, they're probably thinking it's better to do too much than too little.  Too heavy of a hookset, and you'll tear a hole in the fish's mouth.  But it's still possible to reel them in with constant pressure, so long as they don't get a chance to throw the hook.  Too light of a hookset, and it won't penetrate properly.  And those are a lot harder to reel in without freeing the hook.  

 

Small, think hooks, will sometimes hook themselves without a hookset.  Big, thick hooks sometimes need a ton of force to penetrate their mouths.  Anything in between is somewhere between.  At the end of the day, it just comes down to experience and losing enough fish in the past that you know what not to do.  

[WRB]

I use a few different hook sets.

Casting jigs reeling followed by a firm Mh or H power fast rod sweep hook set. Same set with reduced rod sweep force using a crank bait rod or treble hook lures.

Finesse spinning a rod lift and reel set for vertical presentations and rod sweep and reel for more Horizontal presentations.

T-rigged soft plastics a firm rod lift set after taking up slack line.

Flipping/pitching with braid a firm rod lift set.

I always check my hook points and knots while fishing and rigging. Premium Sharp hooks are essential.

Tom 

[Aaron_H]

The trick is to take five steps back, scream "LET'S GOOOO" at the top of your lungs and swing for the fences.

 

Kidding aside, I'll mirror others here that my answer is "depends." I'll hit hard on jigs, weighted Texas rigs, frogs, etc., but mostly sweep the rod to load up on trebles, and use a much lighter hookset on wacky rigs, ned rigs, other finesse presentations where I'm using much lighter wire hooks.

[A-Jay]

20 hours ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

What is your normal technique for setting a hook? Is it really necessary to set the hook so hard it looks as though you might tip over backward as seen on most any bass fishing show? I thought the whole point of using braid and fluorocarbon lines was the zero or near zero stretch as "no one" uses nylon mono anymore because it "stretches so much" for hook sets? If your hooks are sharp the fish should hook itself, you just need to keep the line tight. I don't see the point in the hook setting theatrics. This is something that just bugs me. When I feel a tap or a tug, I quickly reel out the slack and give a snap of the rod tip. Either the fish is there or it's not.  

For the sake of this discussion, I would like to eliminate the type of line used, as well as the 'line stretch' factor.  While I do believe it plays a big role, let's just skip past it this one time. 

Mostly because IME, there are quite a few other factors that can effect a hookset, above & beyond line stretch.

Here are just a few, in no particular order and with a few comments added. 

~ The type & size craft one's fishing out of.

Smaller, often manually propelled vessels have a tendency to move toward the fish on a hookset, especially if & when not anchored.  Plays a role for me in the Old Town Canoe.

~The type & size wire gauge hook.

Thin wire single hooks & trebles can usually find secure footing with considerably less force than say, a heavier gauge flipping hook.

~How about the length of a cast ?  Remember we're skipping over the line type & stretch,

but if there's a big sag in the line from fishing 'cross wind' that hookset can suffer, specially if and when at least some of the slack is not taken up first.

~Something that I believe some bassheads over look and perhaps might disregard, is the bite or holding power of a bass when she has our baits in her mouth & or down in her crushers.

Big bass can really lock down on a bait.  Might not be a big deal on smaller fish, or when heavy tackle is used.  But when light gear is called for and a stout fatty clamps down on it, baits can and often do come flying back at me half way through the 'fight'.  Usually means that fish never felt the steel, just played tug-o-war with me for a bit and then let the bait go. 

Not a fan. 

There's probably a few more factors that can effect a hookset, but I'm wrapping this up with this next one. 

~The actual gear used; in particular the rod blank type, action & power.

Oh there's a only a couple a Thousand separate threads on this gem of a subject. 

This is where what just might be the actual solution to it all lies.

For me it's ALL about matching my tackle - rod, reel,  and yes the line (didn't just say that) to my presentation.   This is perhaps the main reason I carry a full arsenal of assorted rigs.

If & when one or more of the situations mentioned above come into play, this can be even more critical.

So for the most part, when my gear is matched and doing what I expect, my actually hookset is pretty close to the same.  And that is a quick reel set or a snap set somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees.  When it all goes as planned, my tackle / gear is doing the work for me.

Meaning I don't have to compensate with more or less effort. 

I prefer that quite a bit. 

 

Surely we can go out and catch fish on any old deal.

But there's enough threads on this forum to indicate that get this at least close, could be beneficial; especially when it come to getting a bite from the ONE BASS we've been fishing a life time to get.

That's my story and it's still only November.

Fish Hard

https://youtu.be/1to6ti-tlZY?t=697

https://youtu.be/Z95g3H4qmp0?t=85

https://youtu.be/QB1VOTaQuvE?t=101

https://youtu.be/zIqCmH_52IQ?t=387

https://youtu.be/02fPoZHOri8?t=1013

A-Jay

 

 

 

 

[billmac]

If the hook is exposed, then it doesn't have to be super hard.  If you have to punch the hook through the bait before it hits the fish's mouth, or you have to bend those ridiculous weedguards, then it needs more.

[FishinBuck07]

Treble hooked baits and most moving baits for me is just a sweeping hook set. Texas rig , and jigs I am swinging for the fences every time.  Here in Ohio there is one bass in each lake so if he or she is nice enough to bite that day you can be sure it won't be because of a bad hook set that it didn't make it in the boat!

[WRB]

2 hours ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

What is your normal technique for setting a hook? Is it really necessary to set the hook so hard it looks as though you might tip over backward as seen on most any bass fishing show? I thought the whole point of using braid and fluorocarbon lines was the zero or near zero stretch as "no one" uses nylon mono anymore because it "stretches so much" for hook sets? If your hooks are sharp the fish should hook itself, you just need to keep the line tight. I don't see the point in the hook setting theatrics. This is something that just bugs me. When I feel a tap or a tug, I quickly reel out the slack and give a snap of the rod tip. Either the fish is there or it's not.  

No one uses mono Nylon mono anymore....wrong!

Mono doesn’t stretch any more then FC line and doesn’t stretch from a hook set. 

What anglers feel as “stretch” is line bow that must be taken up before hook setting. The larger the line diameter the bow will be in the water between the hook and rod tip.

What happens during a hook set is applying enough force to the hook point to penetrate mouth tissue. The line must be tight first, no bow, for the rod to load up enough to apply the force needed.

You see all those giant bass listed between 17 to 19 lbs, all caught using 10 lb to 12lb Nylon Mono and hook over 100’ away from me. The line bow was taken up by fast reeling the hook pointed penetrated the big bass mouth by sweeping the rod. The rod bends under less force then it takes to stretch mono or FC line.

Tom

 

 

[ajschn06]

3 hours ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

What is your normal technique for setting a hook? Is it really necessary to set the hook so hard it looks as though you might tip over backward as seen on most any bass fishing show? I thought the whole point of using braid and fluorocarbon lines was the zero or near zero stretch as "no one" uses nylon mono anymore because it "stretches so much" for hook sets? If your hooks are sharp the fish should hook itself, you just need to keep the line tight. I don't see the point in the hook setting theatrics. This is something that just bugs me. When I feel a tap or a tug, I quickly reel out the slack and give a snap of the rod tip. Either the fish is there or it's not.  

 

 

Hammer them every time.... I've never fallen over though.  It's not theatrics, just instinct...  more often than not I'll give a secondary smaller tug after the initial WHAM just to make sure.

 

Edit:  hooksets to me are something that gets over thought.  Even when I used to fish crankbaits more I wasn't gentle at all and I never used anything lighter than a standard medium heavy fast stick. 

[BrianMDTX]

There are some that have already posted in this thread that have way more experience than I will ever have, so I’ll defer to their opinions. All I will add is that I don’t set the hook on a wacky rig. I simply lift the rod tip up 45° and reel in the slack and the fish sets the hook itself. 

[desmobob]

When I started bass fishing with traditional bass gear after a lifetime of fly fishing and light spin fishing, it took me a long time to learn to do those vigorous hook sets to get large, heavy hooks into tough bass mouths, to bend aside the thick, stiff weed guards on most jigs, and, to a lesser extent, drive the hook through plastic baits when T-rigged, etc.

 

I believe you do have to put some muscle into it to get good hook sets in many situations.  I don't think I'm ever in danger of hook-setting myself overboard, but there are times I do intend to cross a bass' eyes...?

 

 

[PressuredFishing]

3 hours ago, N.Y. Yankee said:

What is your normal technique for setting a hook? Is it really necessary to set the hook so hard it looks as though you might tip over backward as seen on most any bass fishing show? I thought the whole point of using braid and fluorocarbon lines was the zero or near zero stretch as "no one" uses nylon mono anymore because it "stretches so much" for hook sets? If your hooks are sharp the fish should hook itself, you just need to keep the line tight. I don't see the point in the hook setting theatrics. This is something that just bugs me. When I feel a tap or a tug, I quickly reel out the slack and give a snap of the rod tip. Either the fish is there or it's not.  

Im going to make this oversimplified because its a rabbit hole. But your hook set strength is dependent on the thickenss (gage wire of the hook). For instance, fishing a light wire dropshot hook, you dont need to jack the fish because the wire is so thin just a light hookset will penetrate the fishes mouth. On the other hand if you are fishing a heavy gague jig hook With a weed gaurd, You have to really slam them to drive the thick wire hook into their mouth and push the weed gaurd down. A large reason a "heavy hookset" is If you are fishing a standard worm hook in that 1/0-3/0 or or are fishing a standard mosquito style hook, keep doing what you are doing. You only really need to jack the hook really hard when you choose to fish heavy wire hooks/jigs/swimbaits. And this is coming from a guy that 95% of the time using coplymer.

46 minutes ago, WRB said:

meter the bow will be in the water between the hook and rod tip.

What happens during a hook set is applying enough force to the hook point to penetrate mouth tissue. The line mu

 

47 minutes ago, WRB said:

No one uses mono Nylon mono anymore....wrong!

Mono doesn’t stretch any more then FC line and doesn’t stretch from a hook set. 

What anglers feel as “stretch” is line bow that must be taken up before hook setting. The larger the line diameter the bow will be in the water between the hook and rod tip.

What happens during a hook set is applying enough force to the hook point to penetrate mouth tissue. The line must be tight first, no bow, for the rod to load up enough to apply the force needed.

You see all those giant bass listed between 17 to 19 lbs, all caught using 10 lb to 12lb Nylon Mono and hook over 100’ away from me. The line bow was taken up by fast reeling the hook pointed penetrated the big bass mouth by sweeping the rod. The rod bends under less force then it takes to stretch mono or FC line.

Tom

 

 

mono is indeed a strong tool, and in the right hands it can be lethal, especially when you have the options to carry different size diameters to reach different depths, or to stay shallower, etc. I met a guy out here in socal at a tackle shop that cranks only with mono and has his reels set to 10, 12, and 15 pound to change the depth, similar to guys using floro but hes older and likes mono.

[fishhugger]

50 minutes ago, WRB said:

No one uses mono Nylon mono anymore....wrong!

Mono doesn’t stretch any more then FC line and doesn’t stretch from a hook set. 

What anglers feel as “stretch” is line bow that must be taken up before hook setting. The larger the line diameter the bow will be in the water between the hook and rod tip.

What happens during a hook set is applying enough force to the hook point to penetrate mouth tissue. The line must be tight first, no bow, for the rod to load up enough to apply the force needed.

You see all those giant bass listed between 17 to 19 lbs, all caught using 10 lb to 12lb Nylon Mono and hook over 100’ away from me. The line bow was taken up by fast reeling the hook pointed penetrated the big bass mouth by sweeping the rod. The rod bends under less force then it takes to stretch mono or FC line.

Tom

 

 

that's a nice, clear explanation...  as a newcomer, people mention line bow, and i no i experience it on my line, but yeah - makes great sense that it is a big,,... or huge?... factor in hook sets, etc...  

[Scott804]

Hitting a biggun with a thick jig hook on a big flipping stick is like when you crack a perfect homerun. It just feels good. 

Pitch...pitch...pitch...pitch.......THWACK! There he is!

 

You definitely don't have to do it and honestly a lot of time it is the unideal thing to do. However, when you need to get a big girl out of thick cover real fast....

Main point is, different hookset for different applications/scenarios. It is like casting techniques or gear choice. I don't use an extra fast broomstick to launch my deep cranks the same way I don't jig hookset with a crankbait. 

[Fallser]

I've actually never thought or had a term about how I set the hook. From reading the posts, I use a sweep set.  I've found that with moving lures, particularly with treble hooks, the fish hooks itself and the hook set just reinforces the hook-up.  It's bit different when I'm fly fishing.  If I'm stripping in the line and I get a hit, I just hold the line and do a "strike set" with the rod.  It works.

  When talking about how much force it takes to set a hook depending on size of the hook and the thickness of the hook, one thing that didn't come up, and it's something I picked up from fly fishing is do you need a barbed hook.  All my flies whether for trout, bass or saltwater are barbless, either the hook is made that way, or I debarbed them.  An argument can be made that a barbless hook of any size or wire gauge will penetrate better than a barbed hook.  I tie flies on hooks from size 32 to 4/0.  All debarbed or barbless.  I do buy into that argument.  Anyway it took a couple of years after I took up fly fishing to realize I was getting tired of digging a couple of treble hooks out of the fish, the fish and the net, my fishing vest or jacket.  Now all my treble hooks are debarbed.  I'm still working on my jigs and spinner baits.  If I'm using soft plastics, I'll debarb the hooks.  

Advantages, easier on the fish when releasing, easier on my clothes and nets, and definitely easier on me if I end up with a hook imbedded in a body part.

Disadvantages.   I haven't notice much of a difference when using lures with treble hooks on how many fish I lose because the hook is barbless.  With single hooks, I've lost fish I might not have lost if the hook were barbed.  More losses are just me not paying attention to how I'm fighting the fish.

[Bankbeater]

For moving baits with treble hooks I use a sweeping hookset.  On Texas rigs and jigs I take up the slack in the line and then hit them hard.

[T-Billy]

Sweep set with trebles and exposed single hooks. Hard with jigs. HARD when driving a flippin hook home. Not only to drive the hook home, but also to get the fish coming my way on the hookset. I'd much rather lose some dinks as they fly over the boat than lose the fish of a lifetime, because it wrapped me up deep in the junk, because I didn't crack it hard enough. I lived that nightmare once flippin with 20# flouro. There's a bare spot on my wall because of that poor decision. Never again. Heavy cover = Big rod, Big Braid, Big Hook, Big Hookset.

This is a good example. The shoreline is 5'-8' back in there down this bank. You need to get your bait back into the middle of it to get many bites. Sticking a big one in the middle of that on mono, or worse yet flouro, with a half hearted hookset, is a good way to get your heart broke. 

[813basstard]

If given the chance, stroke’em.

[T-Billy]

14 minutes ago, 813basstard said:

If given the chance, stroke’em.

I'm sorry. I couldn't help myself.

[Catt]

Every fish is different

Every bite is different 

Every fight is different 

Every hookset is the same

 

I set hook with authority, when I swing you'll know!

 

The instant that rod tip starts its upward motion I want to be in complete control. I want that head turned towards me & coming towards me, all on the hookset & all in one motion.

 

[slonezp]

I'm forced to think consciously about my hookset. After I destroyed my shoulder I lost the ability to set the hook from any and every position. I've lost much of the strength in my left arm and hand as well as range of motion. I've had to learn to adapt. While I love to fish jigs and worms, I've found more success using swing head baits rather than a fixed head jig. It gives me more of a fudge factor. I'm right hand dominant. I use a right handed reel, and hold the rod in my left hand. I have to consciously set the hook straight up or towards the right. My body gravitates to set the hook towards the left. Take offense or don't, when I set the hook towards the left it's like "throwing like a girl". My son laughs at me. The fish laugh at me. My hookup percentage is probably less than 30% if I set towards the left. 

 

I fish a lot more moving baits now than I used to. Treble hooks are my friend.

[WRB]

I remember going to B.A.S.S. seminars in Santa Monica in 1968 listening to the “pros” like Bill Dance and Tom Mann talk about hook sets. The “ Minimum” line # test is 17 lb. “let the bass pick up the plastic worm and counting to

10” before”crossing Their eyes”.

I followed their advice. The bass would strike my plastic worm and I waited pulling off line as the moved off with my worm before “crossing their eyes hook set”. Often the bass had moved off into the brush several feet. The hard hook set then made the bass react by running further into the cover. 17 lb line was needed to work a 3 lb bass out of the cover.

ait took me years to change my hook set and use lighter line.

Tom