Mid priced reel bearing upgrade

[Eric 26]

Wondering what the general opinion is on this matter. As an owner of mid priced reels $99.00-$150.00 is it worth upgrading or do you all feel it’s a waste of good money?. Also as someone who is not comfortable doing the actual work would this affect anyone’s opinion. I know there are lots of members who have far more knowledge than myself on this matter and I apologize in advance if this question has been asked and answered.

[bulldog1935]

If you don't mind getting inside to oil your bearings every few months, the raciest and most cost-effective are Roro - I linked the Revo X

 

Note they' have 10% coupon when you show up on their websitee, plus they have a discount price.  

The main thing is they have stock on SiC 3-20-g, which covers a wide lure range - very fast.  

You're not going to find better spool bearings at this price.  

Jun Sonada at JapanTackle stocks Roro bearings (in lieu of Hedgehog)

 

  

 

Note the spool pin - you're going to need a tool to remove and replace it.  

Roro also has the best-price tool for doing this, v. the $45 Daiwa tool.  

 

ps - if you're thinking about swapping out drive bearings, that's where you want shielded bearings with slow lube - factory bearings would be my choice.  

[jimmyjoe]

  Which reel are we discussing here? That makes a big difference.

 

   What are you trying to achieve? More distance? Don't waste your time and money. Smoothness? Usually that's from a bad bearing. Replace it with a factory bearing.

   The greatest improvement in reels that are made by competent companies is gained by sending the reel to a professional (or the factory) for deep cleaning. Some reels benefit from what is called "supertuning", which is basically polishing. If you need new bearings, they'll tell you.

   Otherwise, don't worry about it.

 

   Go catch fish!        jj

[Bankc]

Unless the old bearings are damages, then no.  I once replaced an old reel's plastic bushings with ceramic bearings, and it didn't do me any good.  It actually made the reel noisier.  

 

Reels aren't high speed, high precision or high load devices.  Plus, most reels will spin faster than you want anyway, which is why they have a spool tension knob to slow them down.  That's what I discovered when I replaced those bushing with bearings.  I got a whole lot more free spin, but when actually casting, I had to apply more spool tension to keep the reel from backlashing, so I didn't gain any distance.  And the smoothness of the reel is more determined by the rigidity and precision of the frame and fit of the gears than any bearings.  

 

Reels don't even really need bearings.  They could work just as well with some good bushings and the right oil.  I have a few older reels that prove that point.  But the one thing bearings do offer is they require less maintenance than bushings.  So you don't have to tear them down to clean and oil them as often to keep them working at optimal performance.

[Eric 26]

4 hours ago, jimmyjoe said:

  Which reel are we discussing here? That makes a big difference.

 

   What are you trying to achieve? More distance? Don't waste your time and money. Smoothness? Usually that's from a bad bearing. Replace it with a factory bearing.

   The greatest improvement in reels that are made by competent companies is gained by sending the reel to a professional (or the factory) for deep cleaning. Some reels benefit from what is called "supertuning", which is basically polishing. If you need new bearings, they'll tell you.

   Otherwise, don't worry about it.

 

   Go catch fish!        jj

Thank you all for the replies? I’m really enjoying the answers and reasons being given. The reels I’m more or less considering are a Abu Garcia RevoX and a Daiwa CA80. I love both reels and realize they aren’t top of the line but I really enjoy both. I’m just curious more than anything about the cost effectiveness vs selling them and buying something higher end. 

[redmeansdistortion]

I will upgrade bearings for very specific purposes, like BFS conversions for instance.  For general purpose use, say 1/4 and up, the factory bearings are plenty good as long as you periodically clean and oil them.  There are a few ways you can clean bearings.  Methods I have used are naphtha, acetone, and CRC Brakleen.  I've been using acetone since I can find it very cheap at Target.  The one near me sells 100% acetone in a 6oz bottle for $1, which comes out cheaper than the quarts sold at the hardware stores.  The hardware stores near me usually charge $9 to $12 per quart.

[GRiver]

I have put upgraded bearing my reels, a older bass pro extreme, I had it for about ten years. It really quieted the reel down and it cast smoother. I just did my carbonlite Bass Pro too, same results. I was looking for quiet and smoothness not really going for long casting or anything.

They are pretty easy once you dive into it, I was a little intimidated at first. I took my time , took pictures and youtubed  a few things. I think it was worth it, I got out cheaper than buying new reels. There is a sponsor here that could  do them too. 

[JustJames]

Normally upgrade bearing not gonna gain much benefit compare to just flush and clean old bearing. I suggest you try the latter first and see if any improvements (you might be surprised).
Now those two reels are OEM reels which might or might not use high grade bearing like Daiwa/Shimano. you might be able to get SS bearing that would fit your reel a lot cheaper than stock bearing. You goal though is not for longest cast but mainly for smooth operation and last longer.

Keep in mind though, your Revo X would need special tool to remove the spool shaft pin (15-30bucks). I’m not sure about CA80.

[GRiver]

4 hours ago, Bass_Fishing_Socal said:

you might be able to get SS bearing that would fit your reel a lot cheaper than stock bearing

I agree…. I measured my bearings then went on the hunt,
most are in millimeters. Different ratings too, abec5,7,or 9 or no rating (really cheap). Then ceramic bearings, I didn’t like them, very smooth but noisy, in my opinion. I like silent. 
reach out to DVT  and get his opinion too. 

[bulldog1935]

Unshielded spool bearings improve casting by reducing inertia, even with 4-oz spider weight and that much meat in the surf.  Every gram of brake force that you don't have to use increases cast efficiency.  Less cast effort improves cast reliability.  

You just have to make the choice to give them the maintenance attention.  

 

I've noted the noise varies with reel model - service load and bearing rating may be a factor there:  IXA micro bearings in my Daiwas and Alcance are ghostly quiet.  

Same bearings in Super Duty sound like a playing card in your bicycle spokes (intentional hyperbole) - loaded spool mass may be the difference.  ZPI unshielded SiC returned the reel to ghostly quiet.  

 

All reel bearings are standard metric sizes - what you'll find are different ways of naming the bearing sizes.  JapanTackle has a very good spool bearing size chart by reel make and model - I'd copy it, but it's too big to fit in a post.  

[Phil77]

Bearing upgrades can be a heck of a rabbit hole. I have noticed a small gain in distance but nothing drastic. I do a complete teardown on all my reels once a year and use an ultrasonic cleaner for all the internal parts. A properly flushed and properly lubed factory bearing works best in my opinion. I would suggest flushing and re lubricating your stock bearings first before dumping a bunch of money on ceramic bearings. You can get a spool pin tool off ebay for ten bucks, I've used the one pictured on almost every brand with no problems.

[bulldog1935]

you have to be careful - that style pin tool will reach the pin on fully flanged deep spools.  

Even Hedgehog who invented that style tool states it won't work on spools from all reel models.  

It can't reach the pin on recessed hollow spools (center flange) -

- here shows where it can't possibly reach the pin on Lew's SP spool - 

- for these deeper pins you need the Daiwa SLP Works style pin tool.  

Roro sells both. 

The pin-driver is on a deep anvil that reaches down into the hollow

[Phil77]

My bad, the only Daiwa's I've pulled spool bearings on are the old TDZ's. Those look like spools from the newer t wing reels which I don't own. It has worked fine without damaging any of the spools I do use it on. 

[bulldog1935]

It's a question of how far down you have to reach - there are two basic spool designs - bearing inside the spool hollow, and bearing outside the spool flange - and two matching tool designs.   I have the inexpensive Billings copy of the Hedgehog design, and  found a discounted price on the SLP Works tool when I first needed it 

If I needed the Daiwa tool all over today, I would definitely buy the Roro copy.  

 

If you try this at home, note most spool pins are tapered - when you pull the pin out, you'll see 3 different diameters - the hole in the spool spindle may also have a skinny side and a wider side.  The center diameter of the pin is a press-fit in the center diameter of the spindle hole, and the wide end of the pin is a bump-stop against an internal shoulder.  

 

-- Don't try pushing it through the wrong way, or you'll damage the spool spindle --

 

I do just about everything under an Ott magnifier + lamp.  

 

@Phil77 and no worries, broad generalizations, often incorrect and misinformed - certainly misapplied - are the rule rather than the exception on BR.  

I once tried a noisy ceramic bearing, reels are supposed to be slow, improved spool bearings are only for BFS, ABEC numbers are all that matters etc.  

 

[J Francho]

I'd just flush the bearings, and use a quality oil like TSI 321, Bantam Oil, or Oust Metol.

[DaubsNU1]

All my reels are 20+ years old. I disassemble, clean, and oil once a year.

 

They all do really well.

 

One of my spinning reels was getting a little grouchy...hanging up when I would start to reel. Took it apart, cleaned, applied good grease & oil....good as new.

 

I like the idea of new bearings, but only if existing were damaged or not working properly. And in that instance, I would likely stick with OEM parts. 

 

Good luck...let us know how it goes!