2010 Lund Rebel floor replacement!

[Krux5506]

Well as the title suggests my Lund is due for a new floor. As it turns out, Lund has a lifetime warranty on hull and floor but only for the original owners, according to a dealer. I, of course, am not the original owner. Last year I noticed a soft spot in the floor on one panel toward the stern of the boat, now this year I'm finding more smaller soft spots throughout the rest of the floor on the other panels. 

 

Has anyone ever replaced a floor like this themselves? It's at least easy enough that Lund offers the replacement panels pre-cut and wrapped I believe, but good luck getting those yourself and not through a dealer. Also questioning how to fit them into the sides of the boat where the side storage is and whatever else since it looks like they build that stuff after installing the floor. The dealer told me that is the tricky part. Cost wise it's around a 2k fix for them to do it which also doesn't particularly surprise me. Dealer also told me they've done maybe half a dozen or so over the years, and they've been around a long time...So of course mine is one of the few that will need it done. 

[MickD]

I am no expert, but it would seem to me that you don't need to tear out and replace the floor, just fit treated 3/4 plywood over the existing floor and cover it with whatever you choose.  The existing floor has to be supported by metal, so the new plywood will be supported just fine and the soft spots will be spanned just fine.

 

Ask your dealer what he thinks about this approach.  I used 3/4 treated ply for cobbling a casting platform onto a 14 foot open boat one time and it lasted as long as I owned the boat.  

[@reelChris]

7 hours ago, MickD said:

I am no expert, but it would seem to me that you don't need to tear out and replace the floor, just fit treated 3/4 plywood over the existing floor and cover it with whatever you choose.  The existing floor has to be supported by metal, so the new plywood will be supported just fine and the soft spots will be spanned just fine.

 

That seems like asking for problems.  Unless you perfectly seal both layers, water is going to get in between them and speed up the rot in the floor or the carpet underneath, or just create a breeding ground for mold.  Plus, how would you deal with seat bases?

[MickD]

You take the seat bases out and put them onto the new surface.  Or install new surface mount ones.

 

Keep in mind there is water under there much of the time regardless of whether it comes in from the top side.  But you could seal the edges with quality caulk to minimize its entry from above.   I think it would last for a long long time.

 

I could be wrong, might be a bad idea.  Might be a good one.  Which is why I suggest getting some expert opinions.

[Krux5506]

I probably wouldn't do that. It would trigger some serious OCD for me, lol. Without getting into TOO much detail the first issue I'd see arising would be the fold out seats in the back which is what the rear casting deck is. With an extra 3/4" it would make the deck pretty uneven. 

 

Much in the same way I don't like adding flooring in a house over old flooring, I just wouldn't do it with this boat. If the boat was more of a beater and in rougher shape I'd consider something like that. Either way I appreciate the input!!

[detroit1]

I have replaced my flooring twice since i bought new in 1996. First time i used 5/8" marine plywood (mfr. spec.) and carpet. Last time, i tried 3/4" marine plywood, and that was a mistake. The 3/4" is alot heavier, close to 100#s more in total. Plus, my 2 storage lids are now below the deck. Next time, it will be 5/8" and marine dek if i can. If you can operate a saw, you can do it yourself. My boat aint winning any beauty contests though..  ☣️

[Hammer 4]

5/8" marine grade plywood is fine. To make last as long as possible. Get some total boat primer, about $ 36.00 a Qt. and primer and holes and cuts you make. Good idea to primer the edges of the flooring also.