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Posted

I tried using my garmin to vertical jig out of my kayak in about 25 feet of water today. I was marking fish like crazy. My problem is, it's really not giving me returns on jigs to watch it sink to the bottom on the screen. I messed with the frequency, gain, color schemes, and all settings. I see some guys on youtube using the tiniest baits and their fish finders detect the bait. I had to use about a 4 inch grub on a 1/4 oz head to get any kind of continuous detection. Anything I'm missing? Anyone experience anything similar? I was using a 1/8th oz jighead and a 1.5" minnow imitator and i couldn't find my bait on the screen. Even on 77 khz. Thanks.

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Posted
28 minutes ago, Kayak Fishin said:

I see some guys on youtube using the tiniest baits and their fish finders detect the bait.

They using larger screen, side-scan or even 360-scan units?

 

I don't get lure returns on my Striker 7CV - a down-scan unit just doesn't have the sensitivity to see something as small as a lure.

 

Add to that, the down-scan is taking a 'slice' through the water - think of it like a pane of glass in a triangle shape with a point at the transducer and the opposite edge at the bottom. Unless you're in that narrow 'band' you won't see it.

Posted
13 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

They using larger screen, side-scan or even 360-scan units?

 

I don't get lure returns on my Striker 7CV - a down-scan unit just doesn't have the sensitivity to see something as small as a lure.

 

Add to that, the down-scan is taking a 'slice' through the water - think of it like a pane of glass in a triangle shape with a point at the transducer and the opposite edge at the bottom. Unless you're in that narrow 'band' you won't see it.

I tried the 200 khz too. On the traditional sonar screen. No down scan. One guy I watched had the same fish finder. Other guys have bigger screens. 

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Posted
Just now, Kayak Fishin said:

I tried the 200 khz too. On the traditional sonar screen. No down scan. One guy I watched had the same fish finder. Other guys have bigger screens. 

Well, I dunno how they're doing it cause I never see my lure either on trad or DS with my 7 no matter how I adjust my settings. I just use it to find structure/cover/fish...don't worry about watching my lures like it's a video-game.

Posted
1 minute ago, MN Fisher said:

Well, I dunno how they're doing it cause I never see my lure either on trad or DS with my 7 no matter how I adjust my settings. I just use it to find structure/cover/fish...don't worry about watching my lures like it's a video-game.

Well that's exactly what I wanted to try!

Posted

I use my Striker Plus 5cv for ice fishing in the "video game" style mentioned above...  I can see my 1/16 or 1/8 ounce jig and 3" Rein's Bubbring Shaker easily.  I use that same unit as a portable on my float tubes but have not jigged under it.  

 

Are you sure your transducer is mounted perfectly parallel to the surface of the water?  That unit should be able to see your jig very easily.   Not so if it's angled at all...

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Posted

Do the Striker units have flasher mode? Are they capable of split screen? I don’t or haven’t vertically fished yet but I’ve seen my lures just screwing around and saw my lure but I have a 93SV and was using a 3/8oz jig. 
 

Flasher mode should show just about anything. So if you are capable of split screen (I know it’s a 4CV) you could do 2d and flasher. 

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  • Super User
Posted
4 minutes ago, 12poundbass said:

Do the Striker units have flasher mode? Are they capable of split screen?

Dunno about the 4, but my 7 does both.

 

I normally run trad and DS on the split-screen

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Posted
1 minute ago, MN Fisher said:

Dunno about the 4, but my 7 does both.

 

I normally run trad and DS on the split-screen

Doing split screen on a 4 would be pretty tight but if that’s what the OP had to do I guess it would work. 

Posted

I have a garmin striker 4 cv and I can see an ice jig and wax worm in 25’ of water in traditional mode with a-scope on the side but you have to be right on top of it and any deeper than 30’ you have to turn the gain to high and get to much returns keep trying to adjust your transducer or the location of your jig compared to where your transducer might be pointed depends on water clarity but 69-80 gain should be plenty 

Posted
12 hours ago, desmobob said:

I use my Striker Plus 5cv for ice fishing in the "video game" style mentioned above...  I can see my 1/16 or 1/8 ounce jig and 3" Rein's Bubbring Shaker easily.  I use that same unit as a portable on my float tubes but have not jigged under it.  

 

Are you sure your transducer is mounted perfectly parallel to the surface of the water?  That unit should be able to see your jig very easily.   Not so if it's angled at all...

I'll triple check the angle. Glad it works for somebody though so I know it can be done!

12 hours ago, 12poundbass said:

Do the Striker units have flasher mode? Are they capable of split screen? I don’t or haven’t vertically fished yet but I’ve seen my lures just screwing around and saw my lure but I have a 93SV and was using a 3/8oz jig. 
 

Flasher mode should show just about anything. So if you are capable of split screen (I know it’s a 4CV) you could do 2d and flasher. 

Mine does have the flasher but I'm not sure about it being available in split screen. I run traditional and downscan for separation. 

8 hours ago, FishOn!GetTheNet said:

I have a garmin striker 4 cv and I can see an ice jig and wax worm in 25’ of water in traditional mode with a-scope on the side but you have to be right on top of it and any deeper than 30’ you have to turn the gain to high and get to much returns keep trying to adjust your transducer or the location of your jig compared to where your transducer might be pointed depends on water clarity but 69-80 gain should be plenty 

Thanks. I think my gain was around 70. Good to know!

  • Super User
Posted

Agree with those that say it can be done. Cone angle is a biggie, as it won't pick up if it's not in "the cone" to begin with. This can become complicated quickly in a boat setting when compared to a more permanent ice fishing type situation. It can also be down via down-imaging, but that's even tougher since it's more a 'slice' than a 'cone.' The pic attached below though is a 1/16 oz crappie jig picked up on DI on my 5" H'bird unit as it is falling into a school of crappie (while out on the boat), so it can be done.

 

Also watch your noise reject settings. Might have to take them out of auto or turn them off completely.

 

On frequency, it should be easier to see on lower frequencies as a generality since lower frequencies tend to have wider coverage (bigger "cones"/cone angle). That said, on my Garmin, I usually get the best overall readings using the CHIRP variable setting instead of a specific frequency. You'll just have to keep playing around a bit.

 

IMG_3939.jpg.23ff977ee5be03f9c0764e0ecb98182a.jpg

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Posted
9 minutes ago, Team9nine said:

Also watch your noise reject settings. Might have to take them out of auto or turn them off completely.

 

On frequency, it should be easier to see on lower frequencies as a generality since lower frequencies tend to have wider coverage (bigger "cones"/cone angle). That said, on my Garmin, I usually get the best overall readings using the CHIRP variable setting instead of a specific frequency. You'll just have to keep playing around a bit.

This is great advice that I'll be playing around with on Friday when i get on the water...Thanks a million!

  • Like 1
Posted

It should work... it just might take some experimenting for you to get the correct settings and transducer placement.

 

When I use mine for ice fishing, it is usually looking at a tiny panfish jig at about 30' or a small jig/3" dropshot-type worm at around 100'.  I have the Plus 5cv but a fishing buddy has the Plus 4cv and I believe the only difference is the screen size; he can see his baits as well.

 

I really think your issue is the transducer angle.  For ice fishing, I use Garmin's transducer that is purpose-built for use through the ice.  It is a cone-shaped unit that hangs from a float on flexible cable so it is always pointed straight down.   

 

For soft water use, the normal transducer needs to be level.  The trick to doing this is to bring a 4' level out with you in the boat.  Place it on the gunwale when you are in the normal fishing mode.  Use dimes or flat washers to shim it to get a level reading.  Mark the location of the level and number of the dimes/washers.

 

At home, adjust the level of the boat so the 4' level reads correctly with the same number of dimes/washers in that marked location.  Now, you know your boat is at the same attitude it is when you're in it, on the water and fishing.  Set the transducer to also be level and you should be all set up.

Posted
8 hours ago, desmobob said:

It should work... it just might take some experimenting for you to get the correct settings and transducer placement.

 

When I use mine for ice fishing, it is usually looking at a tiny panfish jig at about 30' or a small jig/3" dropshot-type worm at around 100'.  I have the Plus 5cv but a fishing buddy has the Plus 4cv and I believe the only difference is the screen size; he can see his baits as well.

 

I really think your issue is the transducer angle.  For ice fishing, I use Garmin's transducer that is purpose-built for use through the ice.  It is a cone-shaped unit that hangs from a float on flexible cable so it is always pointed straight down.   

 

For soft water use, the normal transducer needs to be level.  The trick to doing this is to bring a 4' level out with you in the boat.  Place it on the gunwale when you are in the normal fishing mode.  Use dimes or flat washers to shim it to get a level reading.  Mark the location of the level and number of the dimes/washers.

 

At home, adjust the level of the boat so the 4' level reads correctly with the same number of dimes/washers in that marked location.  Now, you know your boat is at the same attitude it is when you're in it, on the water and fishing.  Set the transducer to also be level and you should be all set up.

Appreciate the tip. The transducer is mounted on the dry pod of my kayak and it looks pretty darn straight. I'll check it out again next time im out. 

8 hours ago, Team9nine said:

Agree with those that say it can be done. Cone angle is a biggie, as it won't pick up if it's not in "the cone" to begin with. This can become complicated quickly in a boat setting when compared to a more permanent ice fishing type situation. It can also be down via down-imaging, but that's even tougher since it's more a 'slice' than a 'cone.' The pic attached below though is a 1/16 oz crappie jig picked up on DI on my 5" H'bird unit as it is falling into a school of crappie (while out on the boat), so it can be done.

 

Also watch your noise reject settings. Might have to take them out of auto or turn them off completely.

 

On frequency, it should be easier to see on lower frequencies as a generality since lower frequencies tend to have wider coverage (bigger "cones"/cone angle). That said, on my Garmin, I usually get the best overall readings using the CHIRP variable setting instead of a specific frequency. You'll just have to keep playing around a bit.

 

IMG_3939.jpg.23ff977ee5be03f9c0764e0ecb98182a.jpg

This was literally all my mindset haha. I want to be able to see my bait like that!

  • Like 1
Posted

You have to remember that unless you're on slick calm water, and not moving around, your kayak is bouncing around a lot more than a boat. Returns are going to be slightly off

Posted
On 7/22/2021 at 1:59 AM, Smalls said:

You have to remember that unless you're on slick calm water, and not moving around, your kayak is bouncing around a lot more than a boat. Returns are going to be slightly off

Yeah true. But the one time I was baaarely moving. Still haven't gotten back out to test it though. 

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