Fault of Trolling motor or batteries?

[NOVAbasskid]

I have a 81# thrust motorguide trolling motor (tour edition or something like that) that came with my 02' ranger.

I fish the Potomac and now Toho often trying to cut through intense grass. I realize i is probably somewhat normal for a TM to quit when tied up with too much grass but my trolling motor takes it to an extreme, and my friend this apst weekend said his 46# minnkota does a much better job. Even when lifting it out of the water to try and help it out it usually will not cut it and I wil have to manually remove the grass.

Is this the trolling motors fault or batteries (I charge my batteries before every outing)?

[Hot Rod]

What does the leading edge look like on the MG prop?

If the edge is dull or has a lot of nicks in it it will not slice through the grass like it should.  I wouldn't think the batteries are at fault (unless you've notice them running out of power earier than they used to).

I sharpen my MK blade by drawing a sharp knife along the edge at an appropriate angle on both sides of each blade.  It will wittle out the rought spots and sharpen it.  Alternativly you can use sand paper or a file, which is what I used to do.  It just takes longer than the knife.

[NJBass12]

So does the motor bog down with weeds?

You should try a three balde prop, if you do not use one already.  Also, make sure your blades are sharp (yes, even the plastic blades).  You can sharpen them with a file or dremel.  This wil help them cut through the weeds. 

[NOVAbasskid]

its like the motor will just give up once the going gets tough, haven't tried sharpening definitely a good idea but on the pot i know it'll still get boged down even so i'd just like it to not quit like my friend's does. Most of my buddies bass boats as soon as you left it up out of the water it'll cut itself free.

[Jig Man]

MG makes a hydrilla buster prop that will fit that motor.

[fishfordollars]

My Minn-Kota prop does a far better job of running in the hydrilla than any MotorGuide that I ever used. If you look at the position of the blades at the base and how they are mounted you will see that the blade base over laps. there is no gap between the base of the blades and I think this is the reason they will run better.

[Wayne P.]

Motorguide introduced a "better" weedless prop last year. It is called the Safari ( a two blade) and I have heard of the good performance of them in weeds. I have one as a spare, but don't use it due to the lesser pitch/slower speed.

I also know of a few that have adapted the MinnKota prop to the Motorguides using a Dremel tool to redo the shear pin position.

The Hydrilla Hacker works well too (three blade).

[NBR]

For the batteries sake you should charge after every outing and top off be fore you go if necessary.

[shortbasser]

I use the Hydrilla Hacker blade on my 81# MG. It does a good job. I got mine from Kipawa before they sold it to Mercury. It appears they have stopped production of it but you might still find one here.

www.motortechva.com/

Talk to Tom and he should be able to fix you up.

Shortbasser

[NOVAbasskid]

thanks for the advice i'll look into that prop before i bite the bullet and spend the money on a MK

[Wayne P.]

This shop will have the prop:

http://www.trollingmotorparts.com/default.aspx/MenuItemID/198/MenuSubID/44/MenuGroup/Home.htm

[RoLo]

thanks for the advice i'll look into that prop before i bite the bullet and spend the money on a MK

Minn Kota is your solution

Unfortunately, a Motor Guide came with my new boat, and I unwisely left my Minn Kota

on the boat I traded-in. It only took ONE outing with the Motor Guide,

and I knew it must be replaced by a Minn Kota. Every time I looked cross-eyed at the Motor Guide

it got bogged down in the salad. However, the Weed Wedge on the Minn Kota

is a two-bladed prop that cuts its way through just about anything.

Until the powerhead is encased in 15 lbs of weeds, a Minn Kota keeps on keeping on

Roger