Rooftop kayak carrying questions

[Koz]

Since my little car can't carry a 100 pound, 12 foot 3 in ch kayak I'm looking into buying a new SUV. And since I've never had a kayak before let alone loaded one on the roof of a vehicle or even had a vehicle with roof rails I have some questions.

 

I see a lot of SUV's with sloped roof lines but it's hard to tell from pictures if the rails fully or partially follow that slope. I would think the rails are leveled, right? If they weren't then the nose of whatever you were transporting would lift unless you used adjustable crossbars to level the cargo, correct?

 

Wouldn't a sloped roof tend to act like a wing, creating low pressure and lift along the backside of the roof? That would seem to put a lot of stress on a long kayak.

 

Right now I'm leaning towards getting a Subaru Crosstrek, Forester, or Outback. Unfortunately, supply chain issues and inflation have dramatically increased the price of new vehicles and dealers aren't budging on MSRP. Some are even charging more than MSRP.

[desmobob]

 

My little Forester has been a workhouse, hauling my boat, canoes and kayaks.  No problems.  But I didn't buy the OEM racks; I installed a Thule set.

 

Here it is on Cape Cod with my buddy's Whaler on the trailer and a pair of Wilderness Systems Pungo 140s on the roof racks...

 

[moguy1973]

If you are worried about the air flow most roof rack manufacturers make front fairings to help quiet the roof bars that would keep the air from flowing across the top of your car.

 

[Deleted account]

We do some racks for Yackers (cause their money is green too, not because I think grown men in those silly things makes sense) but mostly do racks for bikes. A sturdy set of rails from one of the leading brands is money well spent. I like Thule, but Yakima, and others are good too. 

Don't worry about the roof slope, just spread the bars as far as possible so that they are leveled, or the front one is slightly lower. I like ratcheting straps better than the carriers, but you have to make sure you don't crush the yak. Last two things, no reason a small car can't carry a yak on the roof. You can put one or two rails on it, then a hitch receiver with a "tuning fork" attachment, similar to what you see on some pick ups, and have it supported further back. AND.... Loading and unloading a large heavy yak on the roof solo, sounds like a good idea, but for all but the young and strong, isn't. 

[Jmilburn76]

I drive a 98 Wrangler with a soft top and was throwing my first yak on top,Old Town Vapor 10, it got old pretty fast. I ended up buying a Native slayer 10 and there was no way I was trying to fight to get it up there.I found a nice little trailer for $75 and built it for my yak.The nice thing is I keep my yak on it ready to go at anytime. Im not sure what kind of car you have but you could always add a hitch then source a jet ski or similar trailer for it.

[Bankc]

Don't worry about the air flow.  The air will come up of the hood and follow the windshield on any vehicle, and get under the kayak to try to lift it up.  Fortunately, kayaks are hydrodynamically designed, so they're pretty good about passing water (and air) around them.  So while with any car top setup, there will be air pushing the kayak up and away, they all work out just fine in the end.  Just make sure it's properly strapped down in place, and you shouldn't have any issues.  

 

My old car was a 2 door Altima, and I transported my 100lb kayak on it's roof just fine using nothing but pool noodles and straps.  I did, however, put a few dents and scratches in my roof after doing it probably 100 times.  My new car is a Subaru Forester, and it too does just fine with my kayak on top. 

 

A little advice for the Forester (or any of the Subies), if you go that route... I use the standard Aero crossbars.  They work fine.  The Thule crossbars are a little nicer and have more accessories available, but the standard ones will still hold a 100lb. kayak just fine.  They have a weight limit of 150 lbs., and it doesn't matter which brand you use, they'll all be limited to 150 lbs., because the crossbars are not the limiting factor here.  So even if you buy some expensive ones that have a massive rating on the box, it's the roof design of the Forester itself that limits it to 150 lbs. 

 

If you don't want to scratch up your paint job, devise a system to help you get the kayak up there and down again so it's not resting on any part of the paint job.  I installed a trailer hitch on my Forester and use a truck bed extender in reverse, so it sticks up to be level with the crossbars.  I had to get a hitch extender to get it past the back bumper, and had to get two trailer hitch clamps (one for the hitch extender) because otherwise it shakes back and forth so bad, it becomes hard to load.  But once properly secured with the clamps, that gives me a pivot point off the SUV and some extra stability during travel with a third tie down point to secure the kayak.  Some of the Thule or other brands have extenders that go beyond the side edge of the SUV, and allow you to side load the kayak without resting it on the paint.  Or you could just throw a bath mat up there to protect it.  

 

A lot of people will use tie downs in the front and back of their kayak to keep it from sliding forwards or backwards.  You can do that, if you like.  It works as I've done it many times before.  But if you have side handles on your kayak, I prefer to just run the a strap under them.  That will, in my opinion, keep your kayak from sliding forwards or backwards better than the long tie downs you see others using.  Plus it's easier to mess with and gives you two less straps to worry about.  And you don't have to worry about those two straps scratching up your paint.  Just set your crossbars as far apart as they will go, and tie the kayak down to the crossbars, not the side rails.  

 

That's about it.  Just make sure it's secured tight before you leave.  It's usually a good idea to drive around the block and double check that nothing's loose before hitting a major road.  Also, twist your straps and secure their lose ends (tie them down) so they don't flap in the wind.  A single twist is all that required on any part that's going to be exposed to the wind.  Otherwise they'll sing to you at high speeds.  In my Forester, I usually have the sunroof exposed so I can occasionally glance up there to see the kayak and make sure everything is fine.  In my Altima, the front stuck out far enough that I could see it.  I never had an issue, other than a singing strap, but it's good piece of mind while your driving if you can look up and tell if it's moving around or holding steady.  It keeps you from having to pull over on the interstate when you hear a funny noise.  

[desmobob]

One reason I went with a Thule system vs. OEM is the ability to customize and use the number of attachments available from both Thule and Yakima on the standard rectangular-section Thule crossbars.  I use a Yakima kayak cradle on my Thule crossbars.

 

I purchased crossbars long enough to put two canoes on, side-by-side.  The factory crossbars are far too short for that.

 

I also bought the Thule Outrigger loading aid that slides inside one of the crossbars.  This thing is a huge help and stays stowed away when not in use.  They don't offer it any longer...

 

[TnRiver46]

The Subaru Outback rails come out and pivot to make cross bars. I took a canoe to south Florida on my moms outback. My brother has the cross trek and it didn’t have that same feature so I think he just bought some cross bars 

 

(cough just get a truck cough cough)

[fishwizzard]

Word of warning about Subarus, I got a ‘17 Outback a year or two ago and discovered that the factory “rails” are not compatible with anything aftermarket.  There are built in crossbars but they aren’t great.  There are ways to get third party stuff to work but it takes money or hillbilly engineering to do it.  

[TnRiver46]

25 minutes ago, fishwizzard said:

Word of warning about Subarus, I got a ‘17 Outback a year or two ago and discovered that the factory “rails” are not compatible with anything aftermarket.  There are built in crossbars but they aren’t great.  There are ways to get third party stuff to work but it takes money or hillbilly engineering to do it.  

I remembered them being pretty slippery! 

I found the pic from 2017, don’t tell my lady I posted this online hahahaha. But it rode solid as can be on the factory bars with some help from pool noodles about 1,600 miles or so 

[Darth-Baiter]

Koz. I fish a lot with my kayak.  I’m actually shopping for a tiny car to move my kayak around.  I’m thinking Toyota Prius or even the tiny new hybrid Corolla. 
 

my current Tacoma loves drinking fuel. 
 

beforeI bought a new car, I would reach out to a roof rack company.  We have stores call. Racks plus or something. They sell all the major brands. I would check my options.  Most racks I see have a 165 lb limit.  Well within kayak capability.   Seems even a $500 roof rack is smarter than a new car payment. 
 

unless your car is beat and on its last legs and your buying one anyways. 
 

koz.  You need to tie the nose and tail down anyways. Even on a SUV.  Your not changing anything from your car.  Except you will have to lift the boat higher on a SUV. 

[Koz]

5 hours ago, Darth-Baiter said:

Koz. I fish a lot with my kayak.  I’m actually shopping for a tiny car to move my kayak around.  I’m thinking Toyota Prius or even the tiny new hybrid Corolla. 
 

my current Tacoma loves drinking fuel. 
 

beforeI bought a new car, I would reach out to a roof rack company.  We have stores call. Racks plus or something. They sell all the major brands. I would check my options.  Most racks I see have a 165 lb limit.  Well within kayak capability.   Seems even a $500 roof rack is smarter than a new car payment. 
 

unless your car is beat and on its last legs and your buying one anyways. 
 

koz.  You need to tie the nose and tail down anyways. Even on a SUV.  Your not changing anything from your car.  Except you will have to lift the boat higher on a SUV. 

I currently have a Genesis Coupe with a sunroof. It's not designed to hold any weight and there are no manufacturers that make roof rack system for it. I had a hell of a time trying to find a bike rack for it.

 

Truth be told, it's been a fun sports car for a while, but as I age I'm tired of the stiff ride and the engine and exhaust noise. Well, most the time. Today the road temperature was a pretty good combination with my soft summer tires and I was ripping along the windy country roads at 80+ on the way home from work today.

6 hours ago, Bankc said:

Don't worry about the air flow.  The air will come up of the hood and follow the windshield on any vehicle, and get under the kayak to try to lift it up.  Fortunately, kayaks are hydrodynamically designed, so they're pretty good about passing water (and air) around them.  So while with any car top setup, there will be air pushing the kayak up and away, they all work out just fine in the end.  Just make sure it's properly strapped down in place, and you shouldn't have any issues.  

 

My old car was a 2 door Altima, and I transported my 100lb kayak on it's roof just fine using nothing but pool noodles and straps.  I did, however, put a few dents and scratches in my roof after doing it probably 100 times.  My new car is a Subaru Forester, and it too does just fine with my kayak on top. 

 

A little advice for the Forester (or any of the Subies), if you go that route... I use the standard Aero crossbars.  They work fine.  The Thule crossbars are a little nicer and have more accessories available, but the standard ones will still hold a 100lb. kayak just fine.  They have a weight limit of 150 lbs., and it doesn't matter which brand you use, they'll all be limited to 150 lbs., because the crossbars are not the limiting factor here.  So even if you buy some expensive ones that have a massive rating on the box, it's the roof design of the Forester itself that limits it to 150 lbs. 

 

If you don't want to scratch up your paint job, devise a system to help you get the kayak up there and down again so it's not resting on any part of the paint job.  I installed a trailer hitch on my Forester and use a truck bed extender in reverse, so it sticks up to be level with the crossbars.  I had to get a hitch extender to get it past the back bumper, and had to get two trailer hitch clamps (one for the hitch extender) because otherwise it shakes back and forth so bad, it becomes hard to load.  But once properly secured with the clamps, that gives me a pivot point off the SUV and some extra stability during travel with a third tie down point to secure the kayak.  Some of the Thule or other brands have extenders that go beyond the side edge of the SUV, and allow you to side load the kayak without resting it on the paint.  Or you could just throw a bath mat up there to protect it.  

 

A lot of people will use tie downs in the front and back of their kayak to keep it from sliding forwards or backwards.  You can do that, if you like.  It works as I've done it many times before.  But if you have side handles on your kayak, I prefer to just run the a strap under them.  That will, in my opinion, keep your kayak from sliding forwards or backwards better than the long tie downs you see others using.  Plus it's easier to mess with and gives you two less straps to worry about.  And you don't have to worry about those two straps scratching up your paint.  Just set your crossbars as far apart as they will go, and tie the kayak down to the crossbars, not the side rails.  

 

That's about it.  Just make sure it's secured tight before you leave.  It's usually a good idea to drive around the block and double check that nothing's loose before hitting a major road.  Also, twist your straps and secure their lose ends (tie them down) so they don't flap in the wind.  A single twist is all that required on any part that's going to be exposed to the wind.  Otherwise they'll sing to you at high speeds.  In my Forester, I usually have the sunroof exposed so I can occasionally glance up there to see the kayak and make sure everything is fine.  In my Altima, the front stuck out far enough that I could see it.  I never had an issue, other than a singing strap, but it's good piece of mind while your driving if you can look up and tell if it's moving around or holding steady.  It keeps you from having to pull over on the interstate when you hear a funny noise.  

I was looking at a solution like this to be able to load it myself.

 

 

 

[Bankc]

16 minutes ago, Koz said:

I was looking at a solution like this to be able to load it myself.

 

 

 

 I had considered that one.  But I think it's only rated to 80 lbs, if I remember right.  That, and I think it requires special Yakima crossbars.  You'll want to do some research on that before you put in an order.  I remember it being on my radar for a few days and then something popped up and made me change my mind.  

 

There is also a side lift assist.  Like the Thule Hullavator Pro.  That one looked like the winner to me.  But it's a bit out of my price range.  I'd probably get a trailer before I buy that.

 

In the end, I never found a perfect solution.  With my truck bed extender, I have to mess with hitch clamps and pull the extender off to open the rear door. 

[schplurg]

Can you use/store a small trailer?

 

My yak is only 86 pounds empty and I don't really wanna put that on the roof of my minivan alone. Never have. Afraid I'll tweak my back or aggravate my tendinitis and ruin the fishing, or drop it.

 

If I keep the yak I will probably get a small trailer. As the water disappears here in Cali my fishing future changes with it.

[TnRiver46]

1 hour ago, schplurg said:

Can you use/store a small trailer?

 

My yak is only 86 pounds empty and I don't really wanna put that on the roof of my minivan alone. Never have. Afraid I'll tweak my back or aggravate my tendinitis and ruin the fishing, or drop it.

 

If I keep the yak I will probably get a small trailer. As the water disappears here in Cali my fishing future changes with it.

You are correct, I’ve tweaked my back and dropped them both haha. I load up a lot of canoes and kayaks at my weekend jobs, and of course usually loading them up when I’m off work too. 
 

I can get the Jackson kayak (somewhere around 90 lbs) onto the rack in the bed of my truck solo but I wouldn’t dare try it on a car/suv alone. I can lean it against the rack and just slide it on 

 

And pictured below are the back tweaking days

[schplurg]

I can see why! Wow!

[CountryboyinDC]

5 hours ago, Koz said:

I was looking at a solution like this to be able to load it myself.

I've tried those on others' vehicles and I'd probably save some money and just get a bath mat with one side that sticks in place to assist on loading from the rear.  There are several folks I fish with that do that and get them on that way without any help.  No matter what you use, a 100 lb kayak is going to suck getting on your roof by yourself.

[David 7]

For the longest time I had an 8ft Emotion Comet kayak cause it would fit in my old 2003 Saturn Vue. Was always apprehensive about car topping. Finally I took the leap and got my new Pelican Trailblazer 100 NXT and car topped it on my wife’s Honda Accord. 
 

All I have is a foam block kit with NRS cam straps, no roof rack. I tie down the bow too. It’s surprisingly simple and very secure. Kind of embarrassed I dodged it all these years. 

[David 7]

Koz, check this video out. Saw it the other day. Not applicable to my situation as mine is only 36 lbs but this method looks smooth.

 

 

[Crankin4Bass]

14 hours ago, desmobob said:

I also bought the Thule Outrigger loading aid that slides inside one of the crossbars.  This thing is a huge help and stays stowed away when not in use.  They don't offer it any longer...

 

I also have the Thule Outrigger with an old set of Thule square bars.  It works great. I couldn't load a kayak on my 4runner without it. The only problem is it produces an annoying howl at highway speeds with or without the kayak. Does yours do that?

 

@Koz Yakima makes something similar you might want to look at called the Yakima Boatloader EVO:

 

https://yakima.com/products/boatloader-evo

 

If you go with Yakima crossbars, I would avoid their round bars as I've heard sometimes attachments can slip no matter how much you tight them down. Aero bars are the way to go.

[moguy1973]

14 minutes ago, Crankin4Bass said:

I also have the Thule Outrigger with an old set of Thule square bars.  It works great. I couldn't load a kayak on my 4runner without it. The only problem is it produces an annoying howl at highway speeds with or without the kayak. Does yours do that?

 

@Koz Yakima makes something similar you might want to look at called the Yakima Boatloader EVO:

 

https://yakima.com/products/boatloader-evo

 

If you go with Yakima crossbars, I would avoid their round bars as I've heard sometimes attachments can slip no matter how much you tight them down. Aero bars are the way to go.

I had an Inno rack with square bars and it howled driving on the highway also.  I got a faring like I talked about above and it made it a lot more quiet.  Still pretty noisy with the kayak up there but quieting things down without anything on top.

[Koz]

4 hours ago, TnRiver46 said:

I can get the Jackson kayak (somewhere around 90 lbs) onto the rack in the bed of my truck solo but I wouldn’t dare try it on a car/suv alone. I can lean it against the rack and just slide it on

 

Right now I still have the strength to move my kayak around. When I get off the water I empty, lift and spin it to drain it anyway.

 

I also haul it up and down this hill from my hotel to the water and back. With the kayak, pedal unit, seat, electronics, and gear it's around 130-140 pounds. And trust me, the hill is a lot steeper than it looks in the picture.

 

That being said, I'm in my late 50's and there will come a time - probably sooner than later - that it won't be easy to haul this thing. That's when I'll opt for a trailer. One reason I bought the pedal kayak was to help me get in better shape. I just didn't realize a lot of that would be hauling it around.

[TnRiver46]

11 hours ago, Crankin4Bass said:

I also have the Thule Outrigger with an old set of Thule square bars.  It works great. I couldn't load a kayak on my 4runner without it. The only problem is it produces an annoying howl at highway speeds with or without the kayak. Does yours do that?

 

@Koz Yakima makes something similar you might want to look at called the Yakima Boatloader EVO:

 

https://yakima.com/products/boatloader-evo

 

If you go with Yakima crossbars, I would avoid their round bars as I've heard sometimes attachments can slip no matter how much you tight them down. Aero bars are the way to go.

Twisting your straps can cut down on the noise quite a bit 

[schplurg]

20 hours ago, David 7 said:

Koz, check this video out. Saw it the other day. Not applicable to my situation as mine is only 36 lbs but this method looks smooth.

 

 

 

 

I was going to do that on my minivan but I don't feel comfortable with it. I have never tried it though.

 

Doing this on a ramp could be a nightmare too. I have a cart so I could pull it to flat ground. Then again with the low water levels here that could be a real chore. launch ramps can get very long and steep.

 

As suggested above, lay a bath mat down on your vehicle so you don't scratch it up.

[Crankin4Bass]

On 7/1/2021 at 10:34 AM, fishwizzard said:

Word of warning about Subarus, I got a ‘17 Outback a year or two ago and discovered that the factory “rails” are not compatible with anything aftermarket.  There are built in crossbars but they aren’t great.  There are ways to get third party stuff to work but it takes money or hillbilly engineering to do it.  

I looked into getting a 2017 Outback and remember Thule made an adapter kit that allowed you to mount Thule feet and crossbars to a Subaru Outback.  The part # of the Fit Kit is 184063. Expensive at $130, but possibly worth it?

 

https://www.thule.com/en-us/roof-rack/fit-kits/kit-184063-_-184063

 

 

BTW I think wagons are awesome for kayakers. I drove my wife's old Volvo wagon for a while before it become too expensive to maintain. It was so easy to load the kayak up there because it was low. Also convenient to fold down the center back seat and lay down your rods. The wagon was great because it had side roof rails so you could easily attach third party crossbars.