Idea to fix this broken reel seat?

[wasabi_VA]

Pretty sure this Fenwick Eagle II rod is out of warranty - it's probably 15+ years old. The bottom of the reel seat broke so the reel doesn't want to stay attached. I originally used a zip tie and duct tape to hold it on but the big square end of the zip tie isn't comfortable to hold.

 

Anybody seen a slick way to wrap something around the reel seat so I can still get some use out of the rod? I'll probably use it as a catfish rod or a kids rod.

 

[Bankc]

I would wrap it in braid and then superglue the braid down.  But put a piece of wax paper or tin foil over the reel foot so that the superglue doesn't stick to the reel.

[Fishes in trees]

I'm wondering - maybe an appropriate size hose clamp?

[MickD]

Electrical tape stretched tightly should work well in both keeping the reel tight and in being comfortable.  Might get a little gummy after a while, but just do it over.  File the "shoulders" that are left there off so the tape will hold the reel tightly to the base of the seat.  Those remaining shoulders will keep the tape from holding the reel foot down if allowed to remain.

[BayouSlide]

Large diameter heat shrink tubing is a possibility. Home › Heat Shrink Tubing › Large Diameter Heatshrink, > 1"

[Eric 26]

My vote is for grip tape available at Dicks sporting goods, so should be available at any sporting goods store. I use it to wrap all my hammer handles it’s comfortable and it lasts forever. Bonus is you can really cinch it down and it’s as cheap as $4.99 a roll.

[Dogface]

I have some older rods that never had reel seats. The reels are secured with electrical tape. Never had a problem. If the tape gets ratty I replace it. 

[CrankFate]

Friction tape. It looks like electrical tape that’s made out of fabric. I’d put something like a zip tie first, then friction tape over it. Buy a name brand like 3M. They have it in Home Depot near the regular electrical tape.  Like $3.50-$4.50 a roll.

[fishwizzard]

2 hours ago, CrankFate said:

Friction tape. It looks like electrical tape that’s made out of fabric. I’d put something like a zip tie first, then friction tape over it. Buy a name brand like 3M. They have it in Home Depot near the regular electrical tape.  Like $3.50-$4.50 a roll.

That stuff will ooze tar when it gets hot, I used to wrap all my tools in it for more grip when back when I did rigging work.  On a very hot day I could get small wrenches to stick to my open palm for a few moments.  It is very strong though, we would also use to loom together 2/0 electrical feeder cables and it would last years where electricians tape would start to fail after a few uses.  

 

Self-amalgamating tape silicone tape is what I would use, although it can be a little fussy to get the end to "stick" down well.  It covered with good heat-shrink tube would be pretty solid.  

[Kenny Yi]

5 hours ago, Eric 26 said:

My vote is for grip tape available at Dicks sporting goods, so should be available at any sporting goods store. I use it to wrap all my hammer handles it’s comfortable and it lasts forever. Bonus is you can really cinch it down and it’s as cheap as $4.99 a roll.

I have some hockey/lacrosse stick tape that works so well for rod handles.  Ive had old cork grips break; superglue the pieces together then wrap multiple times with the grip tape. 

 

it's comfortable, grippy, and can handle all the weird angles that a rod and reel have. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

The seat could be replaced from the back end which would require a new grip as well. You’re looking at $15-$20 worth of parts, $40-$50 in labor plus shipping. If you have to buy PVC you could be into it for  $125 give or take. Some sort of tape or other binding is the only to use it as is. 

[FishTank]

I have seen it done and I don't recommend it but a garden hose clamp.  It works but that rod should probably be replaced.  It would be cheaper to buy a new rod than it would be to properly fix it. 

[Eric 26]

44 minutes ago, Kenny Yi said:

I have some hockey/lacrosse stick tape that works so well for rod handles.  Ive had old cork grips break; superglue the pieces together then wrap multiple times with the grip tape. 

 

it's comfortable, grippy, and can handle all the weird angles that a rod and reel have. 

This is the same tape I was referring to.

 

12 minutes ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

The seat could be replaced from the back end which would require a new grip as well. You’re looking at $15-$20 worth of parts, $40-$50 in labor plus shipping. If you have to buy PVC you could be into it for  $125 give or take. Some sort of tape or other binding is the only to use it as is. 

 

4 minutes ago, FishTank said:

I have seen it done and I don't recommend it but a garden hose clamp.  It works but that rod should probably be replaced.  It would be cheaper to buy a new rod than it would be to properly fix it. 

the op doesn’t sound like he’s planning on using it for more than a spare/kid/catfish rod anyway. 

[ironbjorn]

Eagle rods are $60 new. It isn't worth fixing outside of tape or something.

[kayaking_kev]

Thinking about trying this myself on a rod I built, changing it from spinning to casting, which would require a different reel seat.

 

Just a guess here.

 

Dremel saw the reel seat carefully and the grips and remove them.

Use a heat gun, dull knife, denatured alcohol to clean the left over residue on the blank.

Buy new reel seat and grips and glue them on.

[Dogface]

Someone use to make a tape on reel seat. A lot of fly rodders used them but I forget the name. It would be a cheap option. 

[Bubba 460]

23 hours ago, Fishes in trees said:

I'm wondering - maybe an appropriate size hose clamp?

 

A true redneck, I thought of the same thing. We must be related on my sisters side...

[MickD]

21 hours ago, CrankFate said:

Friction tape. It looks like electrical tape that’s made out of fabric. I’d put something like a zip tie first, then friction tape over it. Buy a name brand like 3M. They have it in Home Depot near the regular electrical tape.  Like $3.50-$4.50 a roll.

Friction tape is too messy, gooey, sticky, leaves a black ugly residue,  and it doesn't stretch which is necessary to really pull the reel tightly into the seat.  In my opinion.

[Deleted account]

19 hours ago, kayaking_kev said:

Thinking about trying this myself on a rod I built, changing it from spinning to casting, which would require a different reel seat.

 

Just a guess here.

 

Dremel saw the reel seat carefully and the grips and remove them.

Use a heat gun, dull knife, denatured alcohol to clean the left over residue on the blank.

Buy new reel seat and grips and glue them on.

We have salt water rods repaired like that quite a bit, I've also had bass rods shortened and lengthened from the butt end similarly. Some builders will tell you you have to strip the whole blank, but you don't.

[WRB]

Tennessee spinning rod reel seat is tape.

Simple fiberglass reinforced packaging tape works good.

Tom

[BASS302]

Would one or two velcro cable wraps work?

[NOC 1]

On 6/29/2021 at 11:47 AM, wasabi_VA said:

Pretty sure this Fenwick Eagle II rod is out of warranty - it's probably 15+ years old. The bottom of the reel seat broke so the reel doesn't want to stay attached. I originally used a zip tie and duct tape to hold it on but the big square end of the zip tie isn't comfortable to hold.

 

Anybody seen a slick way to wrap something around the reel seat so I can still get some use out of the rod? I'll probably use it as a catfish rod or a kids rod.

 

Keep using the zip tie and wrap it all up cork tape made for bicycle handle bars?