River trout/salmon rod

[JeffDahMoose776]

I have discovered that I like fishing rivers for trout/salmon (I live fairly close to the north shore of lake superior) and I want to get a versatile rod I can use for that.  From floating bobbers, to drifting, to inline spinners if it is possible to do that with one rod.  I think I want about a 9' rod  between L or ML but I'm not sure. 

And I want a spinning reel

[islandbass]

Unfortunately, like bass rods, there isn’t a do it all rod. In my neck of the woods, you ain’t floating unless the rod is 10’, lol. Joking aside, I’d choose a 9.5’ rod in M or MH as my “do it all rod” This length will allow you to drift, fish spinners and spoons and float. You might want to look at Lamiglas, St. Croix and Loomis. 

[redmeansdistortion]

Fellow Great Lakes trib fisherman here.  A salmon rod will be different from a trout rod.  When I think trout, I think resident browns, rainbows, and brookies which don't get as big as their lake run cousins.  A good all around trout rod would be something in the 6' range, preferably light power.  The 6' is very versatile and will give you distance in those wide open spaces but also be manageable in the smaller brush choked creeks which are very common around the Great Lakes.  The reason I say light instead of ultralight like many often recommend, try wrangling a hot 20" brown on an ultralight as it's running for the logjams.  In that situation, a UL can be under powered, plus the L has the backbone to wear the fish out faster, which is what you want to do in order to avoid any undue stress which can happen as water temps rise.

 

Next, on to the salmon and steelhead rods.  I typically go with anything from 8' to 9' for throwing hardware (spoons, spinners, plugs) and if I'm floating bait, I like a nice long 10'6" or more.  A happy medium between both techniques would be a something of about 9'6", short enough to effectively cast hardware, and long enough to mend your line on a drift.  For steelhead a ML or M is fine, but a MH will be better once you start hooking into salmon.  

 

For the reels, a 1000 size is best for resident trout.  This gives you the option of running 6lb mono which may be beneficial if you're fishing a woody river.  For salmon and steelhead, you want to step that up to a 2000 to 3000 size.  Lean more towards the smaller size if you're throwing hardware since line capacity isn't going to be much of an issue in that situation.  If you're floating bait, you will want the 3000 size since you'll may find yourself making long drifts and the added capacity will help out.  Better yet, a 2500 size should offer the versatility you need.

[JeffDahMoose776]

Thanks for your input, I get you can't do everything with perfect efficiency on a single rod but, unfortunately money is very much an object.  I have brush choked streams covered, Im looking for a rod for open rivers.  Thanks for your input and I'll have to think about what I'm going to use a rod for the most.

[redmeansdistortion]

7 minutes ago, JeffDahMoose776 said:

Thanks for your input and I'll have to think about what I'm going to use a rod for the most.

In general, hardware is most effective when the water is above 40°F, and when it's colder the fish become more sluggish and more inclined to hit on bait.  Let that guide you.  If you fish a lot during the winter the longer float rod may suit you better.  If you're fishing most when the water is warmer, lean towards the shorter end.

[JeffDahMoose776]

Probably doing more fishing towards the warmer months.  Does anybody have any experience with the diawa acculite, okuma Celilo, or 13 fishing fate steel?

 

[redmeansdistortion]

I have the Celilo is the 8'6" ML variant, really good hardware rod for steelhead, but not something I'd use for king salmon.  It's pretty good for steelhead, Atlantics, and cohos though.

[TheBasslayer]

I have a 7’ celilo light action rod and it’s caught me some big panfish and Brown trout, so I think it’s a good rod! I’m guessing the salmon/steelhead rod is also going to be good.